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Light Blue Hammered Paint

y'sguy

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May 1, 2010
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1,308
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Hey folks I've seen this thread for some time and sorry I never spoke up till now.
I have used this product on the lower part of my 1955 FORD Thunderbird's lower dash. It is to simulate a subtle bumpy leather-like finish. And is sometimes sold by the restoring parts companies. I don't guarantee you would be happy with the results, but it does a perfect job for my needs.
However, it only comes in black or white. Then you overpaint after drying the desired mixed color you desire.
It is made by Transtar. and called TexCoat/chip guard, #4313 you can find it on Amazon for one or at an automotive paint store.
Let us know if it works for you. FYI it is not a wrinkle finish although they do make that as well.
 
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GhostintheMachineShop

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Mar 21, 2022
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A lot of the vids say not to use regular thinner or mineral spirits. Xylene is apparently more refined. Not that I've done well with this paint. It sprayed well but the hammer effect was negligible.
 

GhostintheMachineShop

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Mar 21, 2022
Messages
213
In retrospect, the hammer paint I was using was super old. The light blue was still viscous but the green was almost all the way solid. I put xylene in the green and commenced to shaking the living **** out of it everyday for a couple days. Came back and I could spray it but there was little to no hammer effect. I'm almost sure I saw the blue and the green here local at an Ace hardware. I'ma go later today and look as I need some more matte slate to finish a workbench I recently scored. As I recall they were stupid expensive, like $12 or $16 for a reg size rattle can. They've priced matched before tho so we'll see...
 

ckucia

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Sep 23, 2008
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West Virginia
So I have a potential solution.

Rustoleum hammered silver + Mixol blue #9. Both available on Amazon

I put about 8 drops of tint in about 1/4 oz of paint. I think it's a little too blue, but I'll see tomorrow what it looks like in sunlight.

Hard to get a picture with accurate color representation so I put a common blue shop paper towel in the shot to help. First pic with the paint can and tint visible is without a flash. Other two are with a flash (cell phone camera).

The two washers are just things I pulled out of the junk drawer to test. Micrometer already had a textured finish. Underside of inspection plate is cast iron.

I just used a foam brush as a test. I think a bit of thinner would help it flow better but I'm still playing around to see how it works. So far the tint seems compatible with the paint.
 

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Jacko264

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Kingston upon Hull uk
Hi all
it seams funny you can’t get blue Hammerite as it’s available in Briton
one way round it is to get it powder coated in a hammer. Finish
Graham
 

ckucia

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West Virginia
Do you think this would for a bigger area, say an old beach tool box?
I don't see why not. I believe others have sprayed hammer finish Rust-Oleum. Only caveats I see is that you need to keep it mixed and it dries pretty fast. It seems a little too thick to me out of the can, but I haven't tried thinning it to see what effect that has on the finish. Might be difficult to keep a wet edge on a large item.
 

ckucia

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Sep 23, 2008
Messages
370
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West Virginia
Hi all
it seams funny you can’t get blue Hammerite as it’s available in Briton
one way round it is to get it powder coated in a hammer. Finish
Graham
That's weird. At one point I was looking for Hammerite here in the States and I got the impression they were discontinuing it for some reason. Maybe it's just not importable anymore.
 

bonneyman

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Apr 22, 2010
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Desert SW
I did a desperation restore on an S-K 1/2" drive box that was gifted to me. Tried to approximate the hammered light blue that I think was period for the box. Came out OK, but can't remember the paint. I think it was Rustoleum Light Blue.
 

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kdot

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Apr 23, 2023
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So I have a potential solution.

Rustoleum hammered silver + Mixol blue #9. Both available on Amazon

I put about 8 drops of tint in about 1/4 oz of paint. I think it's a little too blue, but I'll see tomorrow what it looks like in sunlight.

Hard to get a picture with accurate color representation so I put a common blue shop paper towel in the shot to help. First pic with the paint can and tint visible is without a flash. Other two are with a flash (cell phone camera).

The two washers are just things I pulled out of the junk drawer to test. Micrometer already had a textured finish. Underside of inspection plate is cast iron.

I just used a foam brush as a test. I think a bit of thinner would help it flow better but I'm still playing around to see how it works. So far the tint seems compatible with the paint.
I love this idea! Did the tone of blue change after the hammered paint cured? Lighter, darker, less vibrant? Did the addition of the tint reduce the hammered effect? Is the color of the cured sample on the washer mostly true to the color of the tinted paint prior to curing? Seems like there’s a bit of experimentation needed especially when tinting the entire quart container, which I would need to do for the size of my project. Overall, would you say that mixing Rustoleum hammered paint with a universal tint is a viable to achieving custom hammered colors?
 

ckucia

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Sep 23, 2008
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370
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West Virginia
I love this idea! Did the tone of blue change after the hammered paint cured? Lighter, darker, less vibrant? Did the addition of the tint reduce the hammered effect? Is the color of the cured sample on the washer mostly true to the color of the tinted paint prior to curing? Seems like there’s a bit of experimentation needed especially when tinting the entire quart container, which I would need to do for the size of my project. Overall, would you say that mixing Rustoleum hammered paint with a universal tint is a viable to achieving custom hammered colors?
Yes. What I mixed look like blue-tinted silver, but when it dried, it appears the silver settles into the background or the blue pigment comes forward - I don't know how else to describe it, but it ends up much bluer than wet.

Also have to stir it regularly while applying - not like oil and water, but if it sits the silver seems to become more prominent, which is weird, because it seems to work the opposite when applied.

It dries nicely - took a full day to harden. I'm not sure what deeper levels of tint would do.

I thought it was a little thick, and the labels says to think with xylene, which it turns out is getting hard to find these days. I finally picked some up yesterday and am going to see if that affects the mix.
 

kdot

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Apr 23, 2023
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Yes. What I mixed look like blue-tinted silver, but when it dried, it appears the silver settles into the background or the blue pigment comes forward - I don't know how else to describe it, but it ends up much bluer than wet.

Also have to stir it regularly while applying - not like oil and water, but if it sits the silver seems to become more prominent, which is weird, because it seems to work the opposite when applied.

It dries nicely - took a full day to harden. I'm not sure what deeper levels of tint would do.

I thought it was a little thick, and the labels says to think with xylene, which it turns out is getting hard to find these days. I finally picked some up yesterday and am going to see if that affects the mix.
Great info…thanks! I def need to do a roll-on application for my project. My application is mostly vertical so I may not thin at all. I may try a few different tints, maybe in the silver and gold hammered colors as bases, to explore the possibilities. I also may try mixing two different rustoleum hammered colors, like copper with silver or gray, to tone it down a bit…
Do you think it would be better (stay mixed better, have a more predictable color once dried) to mix 2 rustoleum hammered colors together rather than adding a tint?
 

ckucia

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370
Location
West Virginia
Great info…thanks! I def need to do a roll-on application for my project. My application is mostly vertical so I may not thin at all. I may try a few different tints, maybe in the silver and gold hammered colors as bases, to explore the possibilities. I also may try mixing two different rustoleum hammered colors, like copper with silver or gray, to tone it down a bit…
Do you think it would be better (stay mixed better, have a more predictable color once dried) to mix 2 rustoleum hammered colors together rather than adding a tint?
I would assume keeping with the manufacturer's mixes is always the best policy, although without knowing you can't be absolutely certain.

I think a roller would work well. I used a brush and a foam brush, but I have another project lined up that a roller would be better. It did flow out unthinned, but if you let it sit for a bit and try to play with it, it does seem to disturb the pigment mix and the flow out. Pretty much have to put it on, make any adjustments while wet, and then walk away. It sets up pretty fast, but then stays somewhat soft for most of a day. I put that washer in my pocket the next day after painting and later in the day noticed it had the impression of the material in it (although it didn't adhere to the material). Next day, though, it was rock hard. I still plan on thinning just a bit, although with a perfectly flat surface (I was painting a cast iron edge), it may not be needed with a roller.

Possible if sprayed the tint may react differently, and I have nothing large enough to justify hauling out a spray gun, experimenting with the settings and then having to clean it multiple times.

I did some experiments with little mixing cups. When I do the next project, I'll mix up most of the quart based on scaling up the cups and then do some test bits to adjust the color, and then use the entire mixed batch from then on so I keep it consistent. That said, I haven't tried mixing and then letting the paint sit in the can - it's always possible the tint will act as a catalyst and harden everything. Unlikely, but I'm not a chemist.

I can't speak for the longevity, and I've never used hammered paint before, but I'm very happy with the results so far.

I don't know if this helps any. Pics are an inspection plate I painted after the washer and then the following day. I used it as an experiment, plus the underside was very rusted, so after evaporusting it, it was raw cast iron. Sides were previously painted but still rough and there is casting flash. I sorta wanted to take more time with it and grind off the flash, but at this point I just want to stop it from rusting again. So all the roughness is the surface and not the paint.

This has two coats mixed at different times but in some spots I tried to go over after it had started to set and maybe in the pics you can see how those areas are more silver and left some brush strokes. The washer I just painted and put it down and it came out much nicer.

It's overcast today but that's the best light source I have...
 

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ckucia

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West Virginia
Quick update. Haven't used a roller yet, but have been using a foam brush. Gives a pretty decent finish on small parts with no brush strokes if you sorta dab it when wet.

I needed to do a bunch of parts at different times, so I just poured the remainder of the dye bottle into the remainder of the quart of silver hammered. It's slightly lighter than the inspection plate but closer to my original intent. If you want to try this with a quart, that'll give you a rough idea for batch mixing.

Here are two pics - one with a contrasting black and the other with contrasting white. Best I can do to give an idea of the shade. I have some larger parts that I will be using a foam roller on.
 

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Maui

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For all of you guys still looking for Rustoleum hammered verde green in the rattlecan, I just bought a 6 pack of it off of Zoro last month. With tax it comes to about $14.00/can. They may still have some available.
 
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RTM

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May 13, 2019
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For all of you guys still looking for Rustoleum hammered verde green in the rattlecan, I just bought a 6 pack of it off of Zoro last month. With tax it comes to about $14.00/can. They may still have some available.
@PacificaVette

You interested? My local Ace claims it's not available for them to order. I can get on it tonight.
 

Maui

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For all of you guys still looking for Rustoleum hammered verde green in the rattlecan, I just bought a 6 pack of it off of Zoro last month. With tax it comes to about $14.00/can. They may still have some available.
I just checked and it is still available today. And you'll pay less than I paid for my 6 pack. They actually lowered the price!
 

RTM

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I just checked and it is still available today. And you'll pay less than I paid for my 6 pack. They actually lowered the price!
****, out of stock again. I tried to order last week, forgot my password for free shipping, and delayed til today. Idiot move on my part.

And Menards won't ship to Calif. due to Prop 65 concerns
 

TheRealZeus

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When the time comes, I’m trying that formula to make my own hammered light blue. 👏 I don’t have the vise, nor plan to get one, unless opportunity presents itself, but if it comes, I can’t wait to try.
 

Bob/Ohio

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Apr 11, 2018
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Ohio
I emailed Rustoleum yesterday about there Light Blue Hammered spray paint. This was a follow up from a email I sent them last fall. Last fall they said it should be available after the first of this year. Yesterday they said they had no stock and were not sure of availability. Told me to check back in a month or so. They didn't seem to care that I had a Craftsman tool chest waiting to be finished. Lol
 

ckucia

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Sep 23, 2008
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West Virginia
I tried my mixed paint with a foam roller. Got mixed results. It dries pretty quickly and I think I put it on too thin - didn't really get the hammered effect. I think it will work but it's going to take some experimenting. I used it right out of the can and I think a bit of xylene to thin it might help when rolling.
 

deezil

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Oct 25, 2023
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I got this from them last Oct.
 

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Maui

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I have several unused cans of the Rustoleum Hammered Light Blue rattle can paint on my shelf. I've had them for years. I bought a case quite a few years back.
 

Popeye.

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Aug 17, 2011
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Walnut Creek, CA
Bumping this thread as I recently acquired a Wilton bullet I'm restoring.

Are there any new solutions to the hammered blue or verde green paints these days?
 

noone

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Jan 10, 2011
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out there
Here in Europa is it the same with available colors. I needed light blue hamerite and mixed it from dark blue with silver and white, close to 4:1:1. Later i needed to restore a piece of farm equipment and got told that light blue hamerite color readily available was. Next day i got it deliverd. So maybe try tractor and farm equipment suppliers. Over here is al lot of farm equipment painted in light blue.
 

TheRealZeus

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Bumping this thread as I recently acquired a Wilton bullet I'm restoring.

Are there any new solutions to the hammered blue or verde green paints these days?
See post #49, continued in post #58 of this thread, by ckucia.
IMG_3612.jpeg
IMG_3613.jpeg

I have these two products saved for quick reference note.
 

TheRealZeus

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Thanks. I see Mixol also has some other shades of green tints available. I may try one of those to get close to verde green.
think either of their supply got too expensive, it was exhausted or marketing department just deemed it not popular enough.. whatever the reason, the verde green came from utilizing clay minerals such as celadonite and glauconite.. Some more info here for your quest.

 
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