Light Weight Attic Hoist Project Completed

[jhchoppers]

We bought a cheap HF hoist ($75) rated for 880Lb (880lbs with the cable doubled up and 440lbs with the cable straight). We plan to ONLY use it straight cabled and will most likely lift nothing more than 200lbs with it.

The idea was to store large objects that you don't use all the time to MAX your floor space. (ie: 200lb table saw, 20Ton shop press, fenders, hoods, bumpers.... )

Anyway, here are some pictures.

First we modified the Hoist Case to add bearings for wheels.

Using 2 pieces of angle iron, we made a simple track (2 sections 7 foot long ea, total of 14 foot of track)

Then added mounting points to connect to the joist

After a yellow paint and installed

The attic floor now has a 4 x 5 foot hole when opened and can be walked on when closed.

The system works great, I hope you enjoyed the pictures.

 

[Bubbles]

you got to show pics of this in action

 

[smooth72]

That looks great. I was trying to figure out hot to modify HF special to use like that in my garage. Thanks for posting

 

[mb190sl]

nice project, well planned

 

[russlaferrera]

Excellent job, What I would have done different...nothing! Welds look great. , safety yellow nice touch. As the A team say "Love it when a plan comes together"

Keep up the great work!

 

[Major Ramifications]

VERY nice! Now come over and do one in my garage! I've been thinking about doing something similar for a while, but you took it to a whole 'nother level! Nice welds, too.
BTW, your welder is almost the same as mine.

 

[IDASHO]

SWEET.

Something I definitely need to incorporate into my garage build

 

[cc_rider]

McMaster-Carr sells similar setups. You can probably find something similar pre-made as well. Your custom job looks great though!

I've always liked the old-fashioned chain hoists. They don't have the load rating of motorized hoists, but it's fun to pull the chain, and they don't require any electrical hookups.

c.

 

[78fj40]

Oh man,

if only there was a way to cantilever this over an opening out the side into the garage I could get this to work. I don't really have the storage space to have a trap door, but I have an opening out the side with an access panel.....I'll have to ponder this one.....

Opening without a cover:

Cover installed:

 

[Flathead Youngin']

my hats off to ya! you solved a couple of my problems...

edit: regarding the hinged doors, how did you design them where they meet in the middle....does the joint have a notch or does the flat steel on the underneath side provide adequate support......even for walking over it?

what i'm doing is trying to close off a set of stairs that lead to the attic of my garage......when i heat my shop, all the heat goes right up there....

 

[jhchoppers]

Thanks for all the compliments, I hope I gave you some ideas for more storage.

The hinges do not hold any weight other than the doors. The doors can be walked on when closed because they are supported with 2 pieces of 2in angle iron.




When the doors are opened, that are latched with a simple hook made of wood.

 

[78fj40]

That is cool.

 

[bmwpower]

What's the trick to lifting something oddly shaped like a table saw? I assume you don't just attach the cable around a leg and pull it up, right?

 

[jhchoppers]

What's the trick to lifting something oddly shaped like a table saw? I assume you don't just attach the cable around a leg and pull it up, right?

I just used tied down straps to level it out, then connect up the hoist cable. This allows me to get the cable snugged up before lifting too.

 

[428]

Nice.
I had planned something similar for my shop, never made it past a plan though. Might have to revisit it.

How do you get up in the attic? Ride the lift
I'd have to use my existing pull down stair hole for access.

 

[Steve in Mi]

jhchoppers very nice setup, I like it.

I left provision to install a trolly and "I" beam lift to get items [ namely a 1200 pound wood planner ] to the second story of my shop (someday).

For now I use this, less fancy and much slower manual rachet cable hoist. It is a typical swing hoist normally mounted on a truck for lifting loads aboard. I welded the standard base to a much bigger steel plate that spans 4 of the 2 X 12 floor joist and put an automotive throwout bearing in the base pipe so it swings very easily when I want to rotate the load from over the stairwell to over the 2nd level woodshop floor, and back. The heaviest item lifted with it so far was my Delta 3HP 10" unisaw.

 

[jhchoppers]

How do you get up in the attic? Ride the lift
I'd have to use my existing pull down stair hole for access.

Pull Down Stairs too. But now, I don't have to carry the big stuff up those stairs any more.

Ride the lift? I am sure sometime or another, someone will ride the lift....

 

[kbs2244]

That is just plain sweet.
The only thing I can nit-pick is you door hold open hook. Sooner or later it is going to split along the grain in the wood. Remake it with plywood.
(Or metal, since you seem to know how to work with it.)

 

[Ken P]

That is a great idea. I have all these seats and carry-all boxes of parts etc. that are always in the way.

Another vote for the most helpful site around. Thanks

 

[PanelDeland]

78fj40 modify your door and run the rail out thru a smaller opening at the top.You will probably have to redo some drywall but it will only be where you attach the hoist rail.

 

[Bevis]

like that idea...good job

 

[tripletree]

Man that is kool!!

 

[ScaldedDog]

Dragging up and oldie but goodie...

What did you use for wheels and bearings on this?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[jhchoppers]

The wheels are made of standard 2 inch bearings.

I wanted something that would roll smooth and support a load without sagging. eBay is good source for these, I am not sure if we made a shoulder for the inner race or not.

Even roller blade wheels with bearing installed would work (Wall-Mart, eBay)

Still use the hoist all the time, been think about adding one to the home garage too.

Hope this helps.

Joel

 

[e-tek]

I'm gonna say this is an AWARD WINNIG POST: taking a great idea and executing it to perfection, well designed (iron to joiusts, etc.) awesome skills (welds, etc.) and fantastic photo's. Thanks for all the work it took to show us. Hope all the kudo's made it worth it!!!!

 

[dipper]

I don't see any pictures on page 1

 

[lametec]

Removed....

 

[saleen01]

GREAT IDEA...
i wonder if the remote control wires could be extended to ground level?

 

[pattenp]

chchoppers, you did a great job and you’ve received many great comments, but I have to ask a question. Isn’t it a no no to cut a truss the way you did? I was looking at doing the same in my garage and was told not cut a truss without putting in two sister trusses, one sistered to each side truss to pick up the load of the cut truss.

 

[Burl]

Great post, great idea, but......no way would I cut the bottom chord of a 2 X 4 structural truss...especially when they are on (what looks like) 2' centers. When you do this, the truss now has no structural integrity at all, like its not there, absolutely no support. I don't know what the span is for the trusses, but if its more than 20', theres no way that I would walk on them, either. Just my $.02, but I was raised by an engineer.

 

[biker]

Just a plain nice job. Very good for your back. You will use it more for the wife's junck. You know the kind that you hate to pick up!!! Now we need to see a picture of you lifting the saw thru the trap door. Good Job Man.

 

[e-tek]

Great post, great idea, but......no way would I cut the bottom chord of a 2 X 4 structural truss...especially when they are on (what looks like) 2' centers. When you do this, the truss now has no structural integrity at all, like its not there, absolutely no support. I don't know what the span is for the trusses, but if its more than 20', theres no way that I would walk on them, either. Just my $.02, but I was raised by an engineer.

But did you LEARN anything from the enginer??
I agree the truss doesn't hold as much weight cut, but firstly it's now tied in to those on either side and any downward force would be spread out to those trusses. Secondly, the roof is way over-engineered (there's that word again!), meaning that it is HIGHLY unlikely you'll ever get a load that would exceed even half those trusses - 3 feet of wet snow 'might' do it.... But again, as far as the weight it can now hold walking over that truss, I'm thinking that if he ran that stringer to several trusses on either side there would be little change from what he had before - plus, the doors open over the cut truss, whcih would mean no-one's walking on it.
.

 

[ScaldedDog]

The wheels are made of standard 2 inch bearings.

I wanted something that would roll smooth and support a load without sagging. eBay is good source for these, I am not sure if we made a shoulder for the inner race or not.

Even roller blade wheels with bearing installed would work (Wall-Mart, eBay)

Still use the hoist all the time, been think about adding one to the home garage too.

Hope this helps.

Joel

Very much! You just used plain bolts for the axle shafts?

Mark

 

[ovilla]

Cutting the bottom of the trusses is perfectly acceptable as you'll always be bracing against the neighboring trusses. Just double up the 2X4's that will be braced against the neighboring trusses and make sure to use long 3-3 1/2" nails and you'll be fine. I've installed a few drop down ladders like this, when it wasn't ideal to install the ladder between existing rafters, and have never had any issues. Just be smart and don't skimp out on any of the construction. Installing a subfloor will also help spred out the wieght and further strengthen the altered area.

Anyway, I copied jhchoppers idea a few months ago, except I opted to simply buy 12' of barn door track and hardware to hang my HF hoist. I also have 3/4" OSB so the weight gets distributed and must say that it's been a great way to clear up the garage floor. I've got my mower, edger, pressure washer, wheels, and a lot of other stuff up there all distributed around with the heavier items more toward the edges (the walls). I highly recommend this mod as it'll save your back and prevent you from bending/breaking your drop down ladder (which is what happened to my first ladder).

jhchoppers - Thanks for the great thread idea and write up!!!

 

[dipper]

pics are back. Great job jhchoppers. Some day i'd like to incorporate something like that for my attic. I keep the snowblower or lawnmower up there depending on what time of year it is; and something like that will make it alot easier to get up there, and i can do it by myself too.

 

[GzrGlide]

Freakin brilliant! Nicely done.

 

[jhchoppers]

Cutting cords or chopping bikes isn't for everyone...

We did double up each cord (all 20 of them) with a second 2 x 4, then added a 'header' like you do when you add a window or door to an existing load bearing wall. Finally, 3/4 plywood on the floor to fan out the load. These trusses are rated for 35lbs/sqft on the floor level. Not good enough for a second floor with kids jumping on it or a Hot Tub, but good enough to store big junk (ie car hoods, fender, tanks, old bike frames, and tools you just don't need each month... )

Nothing against engineers, both my Brother and Myself are engineers by trade. Motorcycles just get us though our day jobs...

 

[Burl]

jh, I meant no offense in any way by my post, its just that I've seen odd things happen sometimes when people modify buildings. I'm also glad that e-tek plumbed me up on this one, I'd hate to come off looking like a show-off.

 

[jhchoppers]

Here is a view of from the bottom side of the 4 x 5 opening, now that the sheet rock is done.

(Burl, no problem man... its all good)

 

[trainer]

I made a light-duty hoist using sliding barn door track and hardware. It comes in 10' sections and can be joined together. I lag-screwed them through the drywall into the trusses.

An eye bolt fits right into the roller assembly.

please pardon the crappy photos.