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Light Weight Attic Hoist Project Completed

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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When I was doing some small scale manufacturing in the basement I used the barn door track idea to make an overhead lift going up the basement stairs.
The track was screwed to the stairway celing and has a pully at the top and the hoist screwed to the basement celing.
The cable goes up, around the pully and back down to the hoist.
Works great saving these old knees from carrying salt blocks down and other stuff up.
No PICs since I only have them on my system.
But if anybody wants me to e-mail them just PM me.
 
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e-tek

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Dec 19, 2007
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Saskatoon, SK
I made a light-duty hoist using sliding barn door track and hardware. It comes in 10' sections and can be joined together. I lag-screwed them through the drywall into the trusses.

An eye bolt fits right into the roller assembly.

please pardon the crappy photos.

I can't tell what you used it for by the photo - can anyone else? :headscrat
 

trainer

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Northern Ontario, Canada
I can't tell what you used it for by the photo - can anyone else? :headscrat


Sorry about that. It's just got a 1 1/2 ton "come-along" hanging from it right now. That's a pickup truck cap below it. Tomorrow I'm going to rig up some ropes and straps to lift it up and put it back on the truck. I'll try to take some pics.
 

TheShrine

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Texas Hill Country
GREAT IDEA...
i wonder if the remote control wires could be extended to ground level?


Yep, you can. I have a similar set-up for lifting my camper. Mine is mounted 23 ft above the floor so the supplied cord was way too short. The cord has 4 wires so I just made my own and covered it with black automotive wire covering. I mounted mine directly to the rafters. I wish that I had thought about a trolley set-up like jhchoppers has.:thumbup:

Note extended controller to the right of camper......
HPIM2275.jpg


HPIM2278.jpg


HPIM2281.jpg
 

awakeinAZ

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AZ
Shrine - first time I have seen a garage door opener at a 45 degree angle!

Chopper/trainer - very nice job on both counts!
 

jeffnc

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Apr 11, 2009
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Can you tell me how much weight that trap door design can hold? I'm just not familiar with using that angle iron. What I'm thinking of doing is installing the same idea, but without the track to move the hoist. So whatever was lifted up would then be unloaded onto the trap door after it was closed. If you say you can walk on it, then I assume it can support 250 pounds at least.
 

jeffnc

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Apr 11, 2009
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Oh also I forgot to ask. Does anyone know what can be used as a pipe to mount the electric hoist to? Since I'm not using this trolley system, the instructions for the hoist simply say to attach the (included) brackets to "a pipe", or jib boom. Assuming the pipe is sufficiently supported, what kind of pipe or rod would I use, and how big of a span can it make?
 
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jhchoppers

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Maryville, IL
Can you tell me how much weight that trap door design can hold? I'm just not familiar with using that angle iron. What I'm thinking of doing is installing the same idea, but without the track to move the hoist. So whatever was lifted up would then be unloaded onto the trap door after it was closed. If you say you can walk on it, then I assume it can support 250 pounds at least.

Angle IRON is strong stuff. A standard bed frame can support some fat butts all night long...

The IRON we used was 2 inch, just a little bigger than a BED frame. I have had as much as 400lbs up there at one time (me and the table saw) How this helps you.
 

KenB

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Pittsburgh, PA
Oh also I forgot to ask. Does anyone know what can be used as a pipe to mount the electric hoist to? Since I'm not using this trolley system, the instructions for the hoist simply say to attach the (included) brackets to "a pipe", or jib boom. Assuming the pipe is sufficiently supported, what kind of pipe or rod would I use, and how big of a span can it make?

I recommend some way to move the load to the side, not strictly up and down. Here are a couple of related threads with ideas:

 

TheShrine

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Shrine - first time I have seen a garage door opener at a 45 degree angle!

Chopper/trainer - very nice job on both counts!

You are a quick study awakeinAZ!

Not too many people notice the angle that the motor is installed. The local OVERHEAD DOOR people said it could not be done. I was committed and needed the height for the 2 Post lift that was being installed on that side. It took me a couple of days to figure out the rail supports and angles but it works like a gem. The hard work was determining the correct/adequate spring load. I didn't know it at the time but the units I bought would not tolerate a constant reverse load when stopped. So the spring tension had to be calibrated to where the door was always being supported by the springs and not the controller/motor since the rails never actually support the up/down weight like a normal door.



HPIM2331.jpg


HPIM2426.jpg


HPIM2433.jpg


This one was a challenge as well. They said I could not hang it so close (9") to the ceiling.

HPIM2310.jpg


HPIM2157.jpg


HPIM2161.jpg
 

nate379

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Palmer, AK
I'd be worried about the ceiling sagging. The bottom rail of trusses are usually 2x4s and not really made to hold weight.

I was thinking of "sistering" some 2x8s on my trusses to so something like that but the problem is I have almost 20" of insulation, so that would be some interesting framing to make it work out.
 
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TheShrine

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I'd be worried about the ceiling sagging. The bottom rail of trusses are usually 2x4s and not really made to hold weight.

I was thinking of "sistering" some 2x8s on my trusses to so something like that but the problem is I have almost 20" of insulation, so that would be some interesting framing to make it work out.

Which project are you referring to?
 

Disranger

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Mar 8, 2009
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Awesome job on the lift! I made up something similar with my old man at his place to pull motors. I used the same Harbor freight electric hoist, 9ft of square stock steel for the "track", than custom bracket for a wheel. The wheel rides above on the steel track. Works good, but I need to redesign the wheel to fit a bearing to roll better. We reinforced the truss's with 2x8's, than used a 6x6 on top of that with threaded rod to hold the beam in place. It all worked awesome!

Now the problem is I am about ready to bring that setup over to my garage, but I dont want to take all the space up in my attic with the 2x8's and 6x6, because I need it for storage area. Anyone have any ideas on how I can reinforce everything and use a Ibeam this time with a trolley for the electric hoist?

The other way worked out good in m dads garage because his garage is long and narrow, so he still have plenty of space, mine is deeper and not as wide.

I plan on drywalling my ceilings.
 

nate379

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Was refering to jhchoppers with putting stuff in the attic. Have been told MANY times by strutural engineers that the bottom beam (spreader?) of a rafter isn't designed to be load bearing and to NOT use the attic as such.

I'm sure it's ok for Christmas lights, etc but 200lb table saw, air compressor, etc... that's all heavy.

My Dad has a 2nd floor in his 20x30 shop and he used 2x10s... and it still sagged enough he had to put in a metal beam.

Which project are you referring to?
 

toyz4roy

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Apr 9, 2009
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East of Toronto, Ontario
I was wondering what size of angle iron was used for the track and supports?
2"x2"x3/16" or 1/8"or 1/4". I've started framing the opening and will probably go with a drop down basket like the versalift as my floor is too thick for doors to work.
 

BwBrown

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Apr 8, 2011
Messages
14
My barn, built 1862has a track sticking the gable end, open the door and they hauled mounds of hay up and in.
Ponder the possibilities - it can be done.
Bob



Oh man,

if only there was a way to cantilever this over an opening out the side into the garage I could get this to work. I don't really have the storage space to have a trap door, but I have an opening out the side with an access panel.....I'll have to ponder this one.....

Opening without a cover:
403461616_904ff38456.jpg


Cover installed:
426930165_2c777160f7.jpg
 

toolman1967

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Jan 8, 2008
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426
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Benton Illinois
I used the same winch for my lift. The track I used is called Unistrut and I had a couple sets of track rollers used to make heavy duty sliding gates. Works great.

Garage pic 012.jpg
 
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jhchoppers

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Maryville, IL
I was wondering what size of angle iron was used for the track and supports?
2"x2"x3/16" or 1/8"or 1/4". I've started framing the opening and will probably go with a drop down basket like the versalift as my floor is too thick for doors to work.

2"x2"x3/16" is what I used. I sure you could use smaller or larger. The only reason I used that, is that is what I had on the stock rack at the time and it looked like a good canidate for the project.

Thanks,
JH
 

FLfireman2012

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Jan 1, 2014
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Question: Why was there a small section bolted together in one of the photos? Was this to get access to roll hoist onto track and then close the track up?

Please send more detailed pics of that area.
 
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jhchoppers

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Maryville, IL
Question: Why was there a small section bolted together in one of the photos? Was this to get access to roll hoist onto track and then close the track up?

Please send more detailed pics of that area.

The track sections are 7 foot long, I could not get the single 14 foot section up at one time

JH
 

SI86

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Aug 30, 2013
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Location
Pennsylvania
Cutting cords or chopping bikes isn't for everyone...

We did double up each cord (all 20 of them) with a second 2 x 4, then added a 'header' like you do when you add a window or door to an existing load bearing wall. Finally, 3/4 plywood on the floor to fan out the load. These trusses are rated for 35lbs/sqft on the floor level. Not good enough for a second floor with kids jumping on it or a Hot Tub, but good enough to store big junk (ie car hoods, fender, tanks, old bike frames, and tools you just don't need each month... )

Nothing against engineers, both my Brother and Myself are engineers by trade. Motorcycles just get us though our day jobs...


Let me ask you... I have "pole barn" trusses 4'oc and they are 2x4 construction all the way around and span 30' similar to yours. but they told me I had a 5# per sq/ft that the bottom cord was rated for. I want to do what you did here its a awesome idea. But my floor load is what makes me second guess my self. With your background what would you suggest to do to strengthen them up to support a floor load to be to be able to store stuff up there?


Thanks
 
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