Lil help?

[curliejones]

Thought I'd reach out to you mechanical types to see if this idea is good? if there's a better way?
I recently built a drill press table with a fence to help in my woodworking and quickly got tired of taking it on and off my 35 y.o. Taiwan Orbit floor model. I rationalized a new drill press (d.p.) since half the time the Orbit had metal shavings and oil on it and picked a 10" bench top that can handle most of my woodworking chores.
The thought was to leave the drill press table in place. In hindsight, I might have opted for the 8" Wen WITHOUT the rack and pinion (r&p) but that is such a nice feature and bigger, faster, more features is always better right? Almost always, that is. What I did not realize was that the drill press table would interfere with the handle of the rack and pinion and the drill press table need to be removed to adjust the table height. I've measured the rack and pinion shaft at 1/2"o.d. and it is round with one side flattened for the set screw found in the handle assembly. The r & p is very smooth and the table is light on this small d. p. so I believe that extending the handle shaft outward 6" would make the thing function properly.
It took some digging, since I'm a carpenter /homesteader DIYer more than a mechanic but I found a motor coupler or two with 1/2" bore and 1-1/2" long that has two set screws. If this were affixed to the handle shaft on the d.p. and then onto a 6" shaft, I could get outboard of the d.p. table. I see aluminum rod available in 1/2" d. and I think after flattening a spot for the handle's set screw, this would serve as my extension. Looks like around a $20 job, well worth the convenience. If you have suggestions or thoughts on what I've proposed here, I'd really appreciate your input!

 

[curliejones]

Trying to add photos??

 

[ilovevocs]

I think you have a good plan. Maybe use a pillow block or two to keep the extended shaft from deflecting while cranking.


I'm wondering if you couldn't hack the end of the handle onto a cheap ratchet. That way you can raise and lower without turning 360 degrees.

You may have gotten more responses in the fab section. IMHO. Maybe a mod could move it for you.

 

[gungatim]

LGR!

 

[DenisG]

Instead of attaching the wood table to the metal one with screws or bolts, you could design it so that the wood table has a slot on the bottom that is the size of the metal table. Then it could be easily removed to make the height adjustment.

 

[gungatim]

^^
good idea! you could probably design it so it slides forward to adjust height then slides back with a locking knob. is your table the square machinist table or round? the square would be easy to fab a "L" on each side to slide...

 

[frankthezapper]

I'd use steel rather than aluminium. I used an old steering rack hung on the side on my father's old dp, still going 20 yrs later.

 

[larry_g]

I found a motor coupler or two with 1/2" bore and 1-1/2" long that has two set screws. If this were affixed to the handle shaft on the d.p. and then onto a 6" shaft, I could get outboard of the d.p. table. I see aluminum rod available in 1/2" d. and I think after flattening a spot for the handle's set screw, this would serve as my extension. !

Instead of using a 1/2 Al rod use a bolt with a hex head or a socket head. Then you can use a ratchet and extension to reach in and crank. Or use a long bolt where the head sticks out beyond the table and use a ratchet or wrench to turn it. Store the factory handle till you return things to original.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[curliejones]

Thanks to you all for such great suggestions. The devil, as they say, is in the details and this was no exception. The crank shaft I had eyeballed at 1/2" (measuring tape) ended up at 0.55" with digital calipers, while the steel rod I bought at Big Blue was .496". I did not chase down the coupler since the crank shaft was not going to fit inside. I ended up making a wooden knob with an o.d. of 2-1/8" that clears the underside of the steel table by about 1/8". I cut two 2-1/8" cookies from some 3/4" oak plywood. I drilled thru one 3/4" plywood "cookie" with a 1/2" Forstner bit and enlarged the hole to a tight fit on the d.p. crank shaft, then cut a tapered wedge from a 1/2" diam. hardwood dowel and glued it inside the hole to fit the flat side of the crank shaft. I then glued the two "cookies" together and created lobes along the circumference on an oscillating sander so the cookies began to look more like a 1-1/2" thick flower. I slid a little metal shim inside to meet the flat spot when I pushed it onto the shaft, just to act as a wear bar. The table is light and the cranking is easy, just not as fast as an offset or eccentric handle would be. No out-of-pocket costs once I returned the steel rod to Blue. Improving the shop is usually more fun than actually building furniture, or at least quicker and easier!

 

[curliejones]

Thought I'd get a couple pics to demo. Just a simple push-on knob.