Above 1200 Sq/FT LilScorpion’s Fab Space

[Cruzan80]

How do you get the sheets onto/off of the cart in between? I have a similar cart at school, and run 4x8 sheets on our CNC, but getting them off the floor (storage) and onto the CNC is the issue.

 

[kaymccampbell]

How do you get the sheets onto/off of the cart in between? I have a similar cart at school, and run 4x8 sheets on our CNC, but getting them off the floor (storage) and onto the CNC is the issue.

You store them vertically, on a rack, at a height that you can tip/walk the sheets onto the vertical cart, then flip it flat and load your cnc.

 

[Cruzan80]

Gotcha. Our room has tons of ducting, so we don't always have 8ft of vertical to store. Current "new" idea is to build up platform so we can store "flat" and just slide them onto/off cart.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Gotcha. Our room has tons of ducting, so we don't always have 8ft of vertical to store. Current "new" idea is to build up platform so we can store "flat" and just slide them onto/off cart.

You'll learn to hate that, unless you've got lots of floor space. You could make your flat storage rack/platform out of another hydraulic cart, or a cheap car lift. That way you could raise/lower your sheets to the height of the movable cart for easier loading.

 

[nicholam77]

Love the cart, definitely worth it for the amount of cabinets you build!

The new space is coming together and looking great!

I’m big into using home automation to make my life easier and better. I control my entire house heating and cooling via automation (as opposed to thermostat) and it’s made the house so much more temperature balanced and/or more comfortable where people are as opposed to where the thermostats are installed. The program has adjustments for out door temps by calling a weather API for current weather as well as predictive. Predictive is important if you have radiant heat and need to take into account ramp up or ramp down time…it’s nerd stuff. So many nerds.

Nice. What's your home automation platform? Home Assistant?

Someone started a home automation thread awhile back if you have any cool ones you want to share, garage-related or otherwise:

Home Assistant Automations discussion

I recently set up a fresh install of Home Assistant on the unused rackmount server. I'm quickly finding more and more automations to run on it. First order of the day was to set the bathroom fans to shut themselves off 30 minutes after being turned on. I find that the family tends to leave them...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[lilscorpion]

How do you get the sheets onto/off of the cart in between? I have a similar cart at school, and run 4x8 sheets on our CNC, but getting them off the floor (storage) and onto the CNC is the issue.

As @kaymccampbell suggested, vertical and tip up on the rack. In my case tho, I’ll keep the 3/4” sheets on the cart. More or less cart -> CNC (or table saw)

Gotcha. Our room has tons of ducting, so we don't always have 8ft of vertical to store. Current "new" idea is to build up platform so we can store "flat" and just slide them onto/off cart.

I don’t use 8’ sheets tho. My CNC is a 4x4 and I can only get prefinished Baltic birch in a 5x5.

Love the cart, definitely worth it for the amount of cabinets you build!

The new space is coming together and looking great!

Nice. What's your home automation platform? Home Assistant?

Someone started a home automation thread awhile back if you have any cool ones you want to share, garage-related or otherwise:

Home Assistant Automations discussion

I recently set up a fresh install of Home Assistant on the unused rackmount server. I'm quickly finding more and more automations to run on it. First order of the day was to set the bathroom fans to shut themselves off 30 minutes after being turned on. I find that the family tends to leave them...

www.garagejournal.com

I’m using Hibitat as the primary with integrated Phillips Hue Hub and a Lutron as well. All event driven stuff is run off Hubitat tho.

Thanks for the link, I’ll check it out.

 

[lilscorpion]

Put a little time in on the compressor last night. Needed to build the drain manifold. Needed it to be straight and it’s a lot harder to do it on the bench than where plumbing is normally soldered so I decided to use unistrut to fixture it. Damn it made it easy.



I’ve never liked soldering when there’s multiples in very close proximity because it’s possible for the last one to end up with no solder. This one I must have had the timing perfect because I flew and it ended up perfectly. Hot as hell too.



And the fixturing worked out perfect to. It snapped right in place.



Looks good and fits nicely around the Radiant Heat access panel.



Also got the air shut off valve installed.



This valve shuts down the air to the shop and is controlled by the second home automation switch in the box.



All that’s left now is to wire the three valves on the drain manifold. Hopefully tomorrow.

 

[larry4406]

Nice!

What air shutoff valve are you using? Can it be manually operated if it dies?

 

[Horror Business]

Excellent progress.

 

[Atlascycle]

Looks Beautiful, I finally see what you were doing with the 2" Pipes.
I have found that when soldering if you work bottom up you have less of a chance of flowing the solder out of the previous joint, YMMV

Jason

 

[lilscorpion]

Nice!

What air shutoff valve are you using? Can it be manually operated if it dies?

I still have the manual shutoff at/on the compressor should I need a manual override. I’m using these valves which has an auto return function but no manual override: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WDQCQRE?tag=atomicindus08-20

Excellent progress.

Thank you.

Looks Beautiful, I finally see what you were doing with the 2" Pipes.
I have found that when soldering if you work bottom up you have less of a chance of flowing the solder out of the previous joint, YMMV

Jason

Yes, I work bottom up. Seems the heat rising helps the next joint pre-heat and the joints below are allowed to cool just enough the solder doesn’t flow out. I’m no expert even tho I did install and repair sprinkler systems as a kid where there was only an old-timer with some pointers, no YouTube.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Yes, I work bottom up. Seems the heat rising helps the next joint pre-heat and the joints below are allowed to cool just enough the solder doesn’t flow out. I’m no expert even tho I did install and repair sprinkler systems as a kid where there was only an old-timer with some pointers, no YouTube.

You're doing it right.

 

[Atlascycle]

Yes, I work bottom up. Seems the heat rising helps the next joint pre-heat and the joints below are allowed to cool just enough the solder doesn’t flow out. I’m no expert even tho I did install and repair sprinkler systems as a kid where there was only an old-timer with some pointers, no YouTube.

My Apologies if I came across as you did not know what you were doing with this. Just sharing information that i have learned the hard way for myself.
And again the pipe work looks amazing.

Jason

 

[lilscorpion]

My Apologies if I came across as you did not know what you were doing with this. Just sharing information that i have learned the hard way for myself.
And again the pipe work looks amazing.

Jason

I didn’t even kinda take it that way and I’m always willing to learn regardless.

 

[lilscorpion]

Today I tackled ventilation which is a problem in this shop. The PO did a really nice job installing windows that create a lot of natural light. In fact, in most cases I can work in the shop during the day without turning on the lights if the sun is out. The problem however is none of the windows open and the large windows allow for the shop to heat up when they get direct sunlight. Maybe worse, most of my shop processes create smells, some easily make you feel sick when confined with them for prolonged periods. In my old garage, the doors could be open the entire time and the doors were essentially an entire wall…it was awesome.

I need to move some air and I’ve used these AC Infinity grow room fans for a while for a variety of purposes - used a 4” (250 cfm) to increase the flow for the dryer



With an auxiliary lint box, and it works great!



I used a 6” fan to increase AC flow into our bedroom at the old house, enabling us to drop and maintain the temp at a place where the system previous couldn’t. (Couldn’t find a pic, sorry)

Decided to use the big boy version of these AcInfinty fans, a 10” capable of 1200 CFM…well, 2 of them.



Install is fairly straight forward. Gotta cut a hole so I located the studs and picked a spot between. Traced the duct hose…




At height, it’s about 13’ in the air. I mark center and then use my trusty 12” 1/4” drill bit to drills through the drywall and out thru the siding.



Using the hole in the siding, I again trace the tube diameter and then cut both sides with an oscillating tool.



Razor blade is used to cut an X thru the insulation, I’ll leave it and push the duct thru it. Idea there is that the insulation will be tight around the duct and leave little ability for any kind of draft even though I’ll seal it with caulk.



I’m using a Vent Systems exhaust vent cover I. The exterior.



I attach the accordion duct tube to it on the bench.



Then pass the duct thru from the outside and attach the cover to the siding. Other than caulk, I’m done outside.

 

[lilscorpion]

Inside the duct hose is just dangling…now I need to mount the fan.




To mount the fan you remove the motor hosing from the bracket to access the bolt holes in the bracket.



I’m using uni-strut so now I just line up the bracket holes to the nuts in the strut rail and tighten.



With the fan bracket attached it’s now easy to mount to the wall and then attach the duct hose. For now I’ll run an extension cord because I plan to install mufflers to quiet them down a bit and that will cause me to move the fan down a few feet. Would rather run conduit just once so I’ll wait.



And as I mentioned, I’m installing 2. Combined, the CFM is 2402 CFM. My shop is 45 x 21 x 14’ so 13,230 cubic feet. At 2402 CFM, it should only take 5.5” (theoretically of course).

 

[moab11]

Really liking the fan system!
Are both working as exhaust fans? Or is one an intake?

 

[lilscorpion]

Really liking the fan system!
Are both working as exhaust fans? Or is one an intake?

Right now they’re both exhaust systems so I can adequately remove the smoke/smells from plasma cutting and powder coating. That said, this is only phase 1. Phase 2 I’ll install a wye on either side, with automation gates to control air flow direction, and additional fsn that will allowme to use either side as an intake or an exhaust so I can pull air in while Ime removing it. For now I’m using the garage door in the other room to allow air in while both serve as an exhaust.

 

[loganb]

Dang...that compressor setup is slick. Took me a second to digest what all was going on in there...excellent design and great execution!

 

[lilscorpion]

Back on to dust collection. Finally got what I needed for connecting the filters and they’re now in place.



Installed an outlet for the vibratory filter shaker gizmo. This only needed to run occasionally and what it does is shake loose the buildup on the inside of the filters and knocks it down into the cleanup box.



I ran some flexible conduit and a switch box back to the front side of the whole setup so it’ll be easier to get to. I’ll probably put it on an automation switch at some point but will work fine like this for now.



The drum dolly showed up within the parts ordered.



Simple little guy should make moving out a full drum of dust much easier



Fits with about 2” to spare.

 

[lilscorpion]

Here’s the ducting strategy for the shop. I plan to use the collector for all collection in the shop - I’ll be using Nordfab’s ducting which is really nice stuff. It’s easy to install and doesn’t require tape , screws, or duct sealing mud.



For now I’m attaching the CNC Router, the Sand Blast Cabinet, and the table saw. The table saw run will be branched so I can attach other things like a planer or miter saw in the future.



The dust collector has a 15* up angle to connect to which, as I understand it, helps with separation. That meant tho that I had to use a universal like connector to get the duct to run parallel to the floor again.



Another design recommendation was to have the first branch no closer than 5’. This causes my CNC branch to be away from the machine a bit but I can make it work.



These uni-strut supports work perfect (and unintentionally) into my already installed utility strategy and are available in all of the duct sizes. Here I had to add a 12” length to get the clamp to work as well as land the next branch where I wanted it.



This ducting is expensive so I’m installing it in phases. This is where it’ll stop for now. In this batch (order) I also got two 30* bends so I could figure out how I’d navigate the 8” outset of the wall l. I also got one 90* so I could pull the measurement to the ceiling.



Now to sort out the branch to the CNC. I powder coated about 3’ of unistrut. I haven’t been coating them on the walls because I like the industrial look but decided that I will when using them on the ceiling because I’m a little worried it could be too much.



As I do, I coated the fasteners and brackets to match so they’ll blend in as well.





With the unistrut and brackets installed, I supported the duct with some small cable.

 

[lilscorpion]

Not the best angle but you get the idea. Because if the 5’ offset if the first branch, I had to use a 90* angle to backtrack towards the CNC. This will work for now, will need to get the hose attached to the boot and run it thru the full range of motion before I get too excited.



To attach the boot I’ll need to support it in a second place or it’ll bind for sure on the head if the motor and Z axis rail. I found this support online and kinda liked it. Had to drill 4 little holes and managed to do it without damaging anything not taking anything apart.



I could have made it easy enough but I liked what they didn’t the 3-D printed hose guide and I’d rather get the router up and running than spend the next month making everything.



The hose then attaches with a simple
Velcro/nylon wrap making adjustments easy in the future.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Back on to dust collection. Finally got what I needed for connecting the filters and they’re now in place.



Installed an outlet for the vibratory filter shaker gizmo. This only needed to run occasionally and what it does is shake loose the buildup on the inside of the filters and knocks it down into the cleanup box.



I ran some flexible conduit and a switch box back to the front side of the whole setup so it’ll be easier to get to. I’ll probably put it on an automation switch at some point but will work fine like this for now.



The drum dolly showed up within the parts ordered.



Simple little guy should make moving out a full drum of dust much easier



Fits with about 2” to spare.

Where did you find the filter jiggler?

 

[lilscorpion]

Where did you find the filter jiggler?

It was an option with the clear view cyclone. Here’s the link https://www.clearvuecyclones.com/product/filter-shaker/

 

[lilscorpion]

Still working towards getting the router up and running. Need to mount the VFD, figured if can mount (for now) on the pedestal. Made a mounting plate out of some scrap 1/8 steel I’ve had tucked away for 18 years or so (not kidding).



Cut off just enough to make a mou ring bracket. Marked, center punched, and drilled the holes



Powder coated it black



Transfer punched the holes on the pedestal and bolted it on.



Mounted the VFD and wired it.



Another step closer

 

[lilscorpion]

Got a little time in on the air compressor setup, specifically I’m now focusing on the auto drain system. I’ve left the compressor on the machine skates, they’re damn handy. I keep the machine where it should be during the day and then can slide it over when I want to put in some time on the plumbing. Kinda cool.



I’ve not been loving using the 1/2” hose to connect the blow off system to the air tank. It doesn’t flow nicely and is way more overkill than even makes sense



So off it comes.



Using a combination of unistrut, shark bit, soldered, and threaded fittings I can easily change things up and/or repair as needed. First step is to remove all the strut clamps.



The shark bite fitting spins in the copper tubing so I’m able to unthread the fitting going into the valve.



Then I can remove the shark bite fitting using the little release tool.



I’m going to add a check valve after the electric valve so liquid can’t return as the valve closes.



To account for double sided threaded coupler and the check valve I needed to remove 2 1/4” of tubing. I also cut off the length of pipe that previously went vertical and added another shark bit adapter.



Instead of the 1/2” hose, I’m going to try 1/2” clear by vinyl tubing.



These push lock fittings are perfect for something like this and much less expensive. Vinyl tubing is rated for about 140psi working pressure and has a bursting of like 175 psi. Since my compressor max’s at 175, I got chill it out. Maybe most importantly, the drain tank will have a vent. Imagine how loud it would be to vent 175psi out if a 3/8” ID hose.

To drop it down, I inserted a regulator here

 

[lilscorpion]

I did a little testing, when it comes to noise and airflow, I’ll start with 20 psi and fiddle with it once the valves are wired. After stabbing the upper piece in, it’s ready for tube.



Running the tube was fast and with it being clear, you can’t even see it if it wasn’t dangling at the top.



Next, the tank.

 

[lilscorpion]

Just when I start to feel organized something new to the shop causes me to have to move things around…



This is machine 2 of 4 (1 of 4 was the CNC Router)- Shop Sabre SideKick 4 CNC plasma table with water table and drill head. It’s been more than 15 years since I’ve had a plasma table and been able to make/cut things easily out of plate.

Had to cut the pallet to get it into the shop.



And slowly whittled the pallet away to get it off.



Not totally decided where I’ll put it in the shop, need to think thru the options a bit. For now I’ll leave it where it is.



As with any machine, there’s some setup projects I’ll need to work thru before I’ll be ready to dive in. The list is short for this tho-

• Need a water management solution for the water table. Will probably build something like @slodat has on his.
• Need to make some splash guards to keep the water in/on the table. May actually need to use the table to make them tho
• Need a monitor and keyboard mount for the table. Opted out of their provided solution. May also use the table (in part) to build it.
• Really need to get started with CAD/CAM…

More adventures to come.

 

[Cruzan80]

@lilscorpion What was the easiest way you found to move the tables? Pet of the "reorganization" for the HS shop involves moving/rotating the 4x8 wood CNC. Not sure if machinery skates or a pallet jack would work better.

If you need any help with the CAD/CAM stuff, let me know. That is one of the classes I teach. Currently, the HS students are using OnShape/SOLIDWORKS and V-Carve, but I also know Fusion360, and am learning SOLIDWORKS CAM.

 

[lilscorpion]

@lilscorpion What was the easiest way you found to move the tables? Pet of the "reorganization" for the HS shop involves moving/rotating the 4x8 wood CNC. Not sure if machinery skates or a pallet jack would work better.

If you need any help with the CAD/CAM stuff, let me know. That is one of the classes I teach. Currently, the HS students are using OnShape/SOLIDWORKS and V-Carve, but I also know Fusion360, and am learning SOLIDWORKS CAM.

I’m using machine skates, they work awesome. They don’t pivot nicely under heavy load but they can be influenced to pivot. I have these other skates that I bought on Amazon.



They turn better but you have to lift the machine a bit more off the ground and as a result machines have further to tip if a skate goes its own way. The little skates I have have a threaded thru hole that a locating bolt can go thru to keep them under the machine.

I like the idea of a pallet jack but they **** to store.

Thanks for the offer. Tho know going to use fusion for all my machines but I need to play a bit. The router came with some pro cabinet designer software I think I’ll try first because, more or less, it’s a no brainer if it wants to figure out dovetails, etc. I’ll hit you up after I’m beyond that first push. Thanks.

 

[Cruzan80]

Machine skates were the plan (buddy has some). Not too worried about it tipping, more the "foot" sliding off the skate. It is big enough that we would need 2x pallet jacks to grab each side, which would cause it's own game of balancing.

 

[lilscorpion]

Machine skates were the plan (buddy has some). Not too worried about it tipping, more the "foot" sliding off the skate. It is big enough that we would need 2x pallet jacks to grab each side, which would cause its own game of balancing.

When I moved into this new house a machine mover I used before had a modified pallet jack he could whip around a 4k lathe with. Seeing it made me realize that if someone had the space, it would be trick to modify a pallet jack to be able to do such things. Wide stance, maybe longer reach. It would be easy for a guy with a welder.

 

[lilscorpion]

Got after the drain tank for the air compressor after work. Needed to drill and tap the holes from 1/4 NPT to 3/8 NPT so I could run larger flowing fittings.



For this activity I was glad I chose an aluminum tank. Took only a few minutes to do 4 of them.



Top two are 1/2” tube. The fitting on the side will come into the tank from the air dryer drain. One on the top will be in from the drain line



The second on the top will route above the air dryer. This will help contain the agitation that happens when water blasts into the tank under pressure.



The snorkel will have an exhaust muffler to help with the noise.



Bottom will have a manual drain and a blocked off port for a drain oump to be added later.



Snorkel mounted.



Tank mounted. Hoses run.



Air dryer drain hooked up. I’ll find a cleaner way to run the hose later. For now I just want to get the system working.



Other port in the side is unused for now. At some point I’ll add a sight tube so I can see where the level is internally.

 

[lilscorpion]

In 1990 (I think it was) I purchased my first sound system and with it, I purchased a pair of Bose 101’s. I’ve had them ever since and I had purchased an extra pair a few years ago so I could have sound everywhere in my last (3 car) garage. As soon as I found out we were under contract on this new house, I knew I’d need more so I could have speakers in the shop (as well as the garage). So I started searching eBay and got a little out of control - purchased 4 more pair.

Up until now I’ve had 4 speakers in the shop mounted up on the wall like this in some brackets I found on Amazon. I would have made them but didn’t have things wired and working and needed tunes.



Now that I’m back up and running I need to figure out how to mount the pair that will hang half way down and firing both directions. Dom mowing the same theme as the Amazon mounts I’ll mount the speakers 90* to each other. Just a little bandsaw work and have the basic layout.



The mount will be this channel. I’ll manual drill it, way faster and easier than the mill.



A little fixturing and weld



Followed by a little powder. I’ll eventually re-coat the other ones white as well.



Somethin like this? Yes.



White helps the arms blend in more.

 

[Max]

In 1990 (I think it was) I purchased my first sound system and with it, I purchased a pair of Bose 101’s. I’ve had them ever since and I had purchased an extra pair a few years ago so I could have sound everywhere in my last (3 car) garage. As soon as I found out we were under contract on this new house, I knew I’d need more so I could have speakers in the shop (as well as the garage). So I started searching eBay and got a little out of control - purchased 4 more pair.

Up until now I’ve had 4 speakers in the shop mounted up on the wall like this in some brackets I found on Amazon. I would have made them but didn’t have things wired and working and needed tunes.



Now that I’m back up and running I need to figure out how to mount the pair that will hang half way down and firing both directions. Dom mowing the same theme as the Amazon mounts I’ll mount the speakers 90* to each other. Just a little bandsaw work and have the basic layout.



The mount will be this channel. I’ll manual drill it, way faster and easier than the mill.



A little fixturing and weld



Followed by a little powder. I’ll eventually re-coat the other ones white as well.



Somethin like this? Yes.



White helps the arms blend in more.

Nice work. You're going to hate me for saying this, but I think it would look better if the speaker mounts were also white so you saw the black speaker kind of hanging in space.

 

[lilscorpion]

Nice work. You're going to hate me for saying this, but I think it would look better if the speaker mounts were also white so you saw the black speaker kind of hanging in space.

I know, you’re totally right. It did cross my mind and at some point I now have to. Damn it you’re right.

 

[fartymarty]

I know, you’re totally right. It did cross my mind and at some point I now have to. Damn it you’re right.

Well heck, I didn't know there was a suggestion box where the stuff actually gets considered.

In that case, order up some white plastic end plugs for the Unu-Strut ends.

 

[lilscorpion]

Well heck, I didn't know there was a suggestion box where the stuff actually gets considered.

In that case, order up some white plastic end plugs for the Unu-Strut ends.

I hate you.






fhis is such a slippery slope…I found them in steel so I can powder coat to match…

 

[legenddc]

They made those Bose 101s in white too…

 

[lilscorpion]

They made those Bose 101s in white too…

The ones I found that were white are dirty and/or off white like yellowish….and I’m a little far down the path now having already purchased an additional 5 pairs in black. I could coat the screens but ifs a lot of work and may look stupid with the black housings…