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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Don’t know if I’ll ever do so but I did add that last “bay” so I could expand by adding one more. We’ll see…
Above 1200 Sq/FT LilScorpion’s Fab Space
- Thread starter lilscorpion
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
This weeks spoils - hardware organization. I’ve been using viewtainers for years now and really like that I can take hardware to the projects especially since they tend to be all around the house.
I wasn’t sure I liked the idea of giving up drawer space so I could have labels on the storage trays but after making a sample I decided to go with it especially since I usually have to pause to verify I have the hardware I meant to grab. This should make grabbing and going require less effort.
I wasn’t sure I liked the idea of giving up drawer space so I could have labels on the storage trays but after making a sample I decided to go with it especially since I usually have to pause to verify I have the hardware I meant to grab. This should make grabbing and going require less effort.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Are the ones in the first pic empty, or so they stack in a staircase when in use?This weeks spoils - hardware organization. I’ve been using viewtainers for years now and really like that I can take hardware to the projects especially since they tend to be all around the house.
I wasn’t sure I liked the idea of giving up drawer space so I could have labels on the storage trays but after making a sample I decided to go with it especially since I usually have to pause to verify I have the hardware I meant to grab. This should make grabbing and going require less effort.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
They’re just empty. When the viewtainer is in it, it protrudes by more than half the diameter. They don’t even stack well empty since I removed the lips.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Been working on sand paper holders too. First design seemed ideal until I realized it wasn’t rigid enough. For scale, these discs are for a 3” RO Sander.
This is the design I settled on. Same concept but only one finger/grab slot. Also changed the labels to work in any orientation.
This is the design I settled on. Same concept but only one finger/grab slot. Also changed the labels to work in any orientation.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Can’t take credit on the lettering. It’s a feature of Bambi’s slicer. That software makes it so easy you almost need to try to mess it up.
Related note: I have messed it up a bit. Still need to pay attention.
Jayman17
Well-known member
Curious what material (gray) you used on the wall behind the 3D printers? That is a nice looking wall. Love the holders you made for the sanding discs too, those look handy.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
The previous owner did that. It’s some kind of siding. He was a builder so I suspect it was surplus exterior siding from a build he did. Not sure what kind but it does look nice from a few feet away. Getting up close you can see the brad nails he used to attach it. Not very noticeable tho.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Spent the afternoon working on the counters. Wife got me a Foreball tool builder top for Christmas soon I could have a small fixture table on the counter top for Tig welding small parts and assemblies. I cut it down to match the depth of the counters.
Don’t use it much but I do appreciate how the milwaukee metal cutting circular leaves such a nice edge.
Set it in place to and cut down the counter top to fit.
On the other end of the counter, under the other window, I’m going to use one of the steel counters from the last garage for a work surface where I’ll install the tapping arm and a vise.
In order to make the frames for these two tops I need to use the fixture table. Since I’ve been slacking on finishing the material cart, I’ll need to weld ‘em up. Had a little machine work to finish up before I could start welding. Mostly just drilling holes for braces.
Since the fixture was already set up, I was able to just drop parts into place and get after it.
Shortly before sundown I received some boxes from Langmuir. They sent most of what they still owed me for tooling for the brake. It’s been a journey.
Don’t use it much but I do appreciate how the milwaukee metal cutting circular leaves such a nice edge.
Set it in place to and cut down the counter top to fit.
On the other end of the counter, under the other window, I’m going to use one of the steel counters from the last garage for a work surface where I’ll install the tapping arm and a vise.
In order to make the frames for these two tops I need to use the fixture table. Since I’ve been slacking on finishing the material cart, I’ll need to weld ‘em up. Had a little machine work to finish up before I could start welding. Mostly just drilling holes for braces.
Since the fixture was already set up, I was able to just drop parts into place and get after it.
Shortly before sundown I received some boxes from Langmuir. They sent most of what they still owed me for tooling for the brake. It’s been a journey.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Are you planning on putting a piece of steel under that perforated fireball plate? It would really **** if a spark or blob got into your wooden drawers full of plastic bins.
larry4406
Well-known member
I had same thought!
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Yes! I’m planning on adding a thin sheet/tray under to catch stuff. Had the same thought - could quickly make a mess of things. I won’t use the MiG on these tops, only TIG but there’s still a chance that I could get hot metal down into a hole.
Unfortunately these steel utility tops are kinda an afterthought so the plan is to cut 3/4” tubing and run them perpendicular to the wall and then make little dust trays that slide in from the front that go between. The 3/4” will be just enough to allow the ball locks I have to work.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Worked on the counters again. Built the frames to lift them off the cabinet boxes. Had 10’ long pieces I was working with and decided to modify the pipe standers I have to make them more user friendly. Cut off the V saddle and replaced it with a piece of square tubing.
No they dint have to be perfectly lined up. Once I get the brake up and running I’ll make some adjustable end caps but they’ll work as is for now. This works as a make shift saw stand but I can’t wait to build a dedicated tricked out cart for it.
Here’s a glimpse of the frame for the top that doesn’t have holes in it. It’s .250 below the laminate top so I’ll need to get some aluminum to space it up so it sits flush.
Ran 5 pieces of tubing perpendicular to the wall and the counter for the other one. Plenty of room to use the fixtures on it.
Not the best pic from below but you can kinda see it. I’ll make 4 low profile pans to fit below the top to catch stuff that falls thru.
I finished up welding some of the cart parts so I torn down the fixtures and cleaned them up. I really like having a place to set them while cleaning up. Ultimately I’ll use a cart.
All cleaned up and ready for the saw cart build.
No they dint have to be perfectly lined up. Once I get the brake up and running I’ll make some adjustable end caps but they’ll work as is for now. This works as a make shift saw stand but I can’t wait to build a dedicated tricked out cart for it.
Here’s a glimpse of the frame for the top that doesn’t have holes in it. It’s .250 below the laminate top so I’ll need to get some aluminum to space it up so it sits flush.
Ran 5 pieces of tubing perpendicular to the wall and the counter for the other one. Plenty of room to use the fixtures on it.
Not the best pic from below but you can kinda see it. I’ll make 4 low profile pans to fit below the top to catch stuff that falls thru.
I finished up welding some of the cart parts so I torn down the fixtures and cleaned them up. I really like having a place to set them while cleaning up. Ultimately I’ll use a cart.
All cleaned up and ready for the saw cart build.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
What about the last row on each end? You know that's where the freak skittering ball of flaming metal is going to head right for, don't you? I know folks think there's no sparks n spatter in TIG. And very often that's true, but there's always Murphy.
Hellpig
Well-known member
WOW is all I can say!
I'm at the other end of the organizational spectrum.
Or perhaps, I should look at it as I'm NUMBER ONE in the Disorganization Olympics. GOLD!
I'm at the other end of the organizational spectrum.
Or perhaps, I should look at it as I'm NUMBER ONE in the Disorganization Olympics. GOLD!
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Good eye. I haven’t decided yet but yeah, a bit of a pickle. The supports are Preston laying under the top awaiting fasteners. I’ll try to make 2 channels to catch debris or, if I can’t, I’ll move those two all the way to the outside. Problem with moving them to the outside is they’ll partially block the outter set of holes. Just a challenge left for another day.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Why not a sheet of very thin tin under the whole thing, all the way across, curling up at the ends and back, so it'll deflect anything untoward away from the wood. Then you could slip your drawers/trays into the gaps.
^^^^^ this.
Kay beat me to it. Stuff will always get to where you think it won’t.
Ron
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Matt, you are making me feel like an unorganized hack. 
Firebrick43
Well-known member
@lilscorpion you assaulted my senses with your “organization” and “gridfinity. “
So last night I was sufficiently cow-towed in to printing a grid and woke up to this. Some how popped the clips off and ejected the glass plate out the doors. 4 years and this is the first true failed print my railcore has had. And I blame you!
/s
So last night I was sufficiently cow-towed in to printing a grid and woke up to this. Some how popped the clips off and ejected the glass plate out the doors. 4 years and this is the first true failed print my railcore has had. And I blame you!
/s
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That is an impressive crash for a 3d printer! Damn. Sorry to see it, nonetheless.@lilscorpion you assaulted my senses with your “organization” and “gridfinity. “
So last night I was sufficiently cow-towed in to printing a grid and woke up to this. Some how popped the clips off and ejected the glass plate out the doors. 4 years and this is the first true failed print my railcore has had. And I blame you!
/s
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Hopefully it didn’t bend the Y axis linear way permanently.
It was flexed up when I found it this morning. I put a small cheap rule on it and thought was bent but compared to Al large precision straight (that won’t fit in the printer ) and found the rule itself is not straight. A quick bare bed probe looked promising but I have a 12” parallel out in the shop I will check it with when I get home from work.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Could yes. Hadn’t thought of that. Could probably use a galvanized sheet and screw it into the top of the cabinet then slid in the trays…worth thinking about. Good idea.
How in the hell did that happen? I’m guessing that the nozzle got attached to the grid and started dragging it around at full print speed. That’s insane! I too hope the machine is fine otherwise. Man.@lilscorpion you assaulted my senses with your “organization” and “gridfinity. “
So last night I was sufficiently cow-towed in to printing a grid and woke up to this. Some how popped the clips off and ejected the glass plate out the doors. 4 years and this is the first true failed print my railcore has had. And I blame you!
/s
Ahem I work from home I keep the machines cycling. Takes over an hour per. Think the pile is twice this deep since Friday.
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Is the plan to start printing for sale after all this as well or do you have three with a temptation for four just for your own projects? It's a super cool setup either way. I love all your organization. You make me consider more than one cause I am not sure I am going to have the patience for speed of just one when I get underway.
Horror Business
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2014
- Messages
- 504
Sooooo, when do we get back to cool Jeep modifications????
Bessy
Well-known member
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Maybe. I sense the bins would be fairly overpriced if I did the math on machine time. I could, just not sure I want to. I will likely sell jeep parts again at some point. One of the first will be an A-pillar gauge pod that works with the Switch Pros setup. Need a cleaner way to mount boost and intake temp gauges and needing to do so was the primary driving force for buying 3D printers in the first place.
Great question! They were supposed to start again about now but I’m really behind on getting the shop (and inerrior mods I promised the wife) done. I have a pile of parts for my daughters Hemi JK on a pallet in the middle of the shop floor. That’ll be #1. Then I need to refresh my son’s jeep - powder coat the calipers on his Dana 60’s, redo all the powder coat on the suspension parts, and get his gauges up on the a-pillar as well. Then there’s mine. Minor touch up to powder coating…then I wanna to put a boosted LS in it. Something that gets 30-40 smiles per hour if you know what I mean.
I might make some. Not very high on the list. Main issue is I can’t see where having the holes is a big deal (for me). If I need a bench without holes to do stuff, I can use any of the 40’ of bench space I have on either side of the shop. I do get how someone with limited space may want to utilize plugs like these to convert their welding bench to a general purpose bench. They time it would take to plug and unplug doesn’t seem worth it
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
Thank you for the shout out!
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
I also work in the technology sector and as you said hands are kind of important with a keyboard. That work is a hobby for one that if I allow it to harm me in that way it could ruin my hobbies and my income. Now I am going to redesign my shop table layout around an SS, even if I can't acquire one just yet instead of my existing contractor saw.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Do it. They’re really nice saws. I’ve been very happy with it. I can count 10 times my saw has come in handy and/or never let me down.
boyleged
Well-known member
I bought two of the big industrial Sawstops after a workplace incident and found you can return the used cartridge and if they find skin contact they send you a new one for "free"
"If SawStop’s engineers verify the activation was due to contact with skin, you will receive a free replacement cartridge. If you are unsure why the cartridge activated, you can also ship the cartridge for analysis to SawStop’s service engineers."
"If SawStop’s engineers verify the activation was due to contact with skin, you will receive a free replacement cartridge. If you are unsure why the cartridge activated, you can also ship the cartridge for analysis to SawStop’s service engineers."
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
I had no idea..
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
More drawer organizaers. This one is various sand papers
The roll holders has a little slit in it that keeps the loose end in place and prevents the roll from unrolling. The other provision allows me to grip the roll at the loose end and remove it. After finishing the prints I realized I could have added a serrated edge so I could pull out whatever I need and then tear it of. Then I realized I could have printed a ruler into the side so I could easily measure the pice I needed. Heh…too late.
My Kant Twist clamps have always just been loose in a bin in the drawer. Came up with this organizer for them.
I’ve only made 2 sizes so far- 1 1/2” and 2”. String them up side down allows them to fit exactly the same no matter how open or closed the clamp is. Spacing works with both style handle.
So much nicer. Will be nice to have more organized clamps. (other stuff is out of the way on the bench).
This by far is my largest number of Kant Twist clamps. I’ll need to make an organizer for my four minis and my two 3 (or are they 4”) clamps too.
The roll holders has a little slit in it that keeps the loose end in place and prevents the roll from unrolling. The other provision allows me to grip the roll at the loose end and remove it. After finishing the prints I realized I could have added a serrated edge so I could pull out whatever I need and then tear it of. Then I realized I could have printed a ruler into the side so I could easily measure the pice I needed. Heh…too late.
My Kant Twist clamps have always just been loose in a bin in the drawer. Came up with this organizer for them.
I’ve only made 2 sizes so far- 1 1/2” and 2”. String them up side down allows them to fit exactly the same no matter how open or closed the clamp is. Spacing works with both style handle.
So much nicer. Will be nice to have more organized clamps. (other stuff is out of the way on the bench).
This by far is my largest number of Kant Twist clamps. I’ll need to make an organizer for my four minis and my two 3 (or are they 4”) clamps too.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You're playing hell with my ocd, keep up the good work!
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So organized it's kind of ridiculous. My tape is in an old beer box in the chemical cabinet lol.
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lilscorpion
Well-known member
Heh…mine too. Each thing I organize makes me want to organize 3 more.