ARFLY
Well-known member
I have a Lincoln AC 225 arc welder. Can I mount it up on the wall? I haven't used it yet and don't know how much heat it will give off. I have a sheetrock wall and don't want to scorch the wall.
Lincoln AC 225 question
- Thread starter ARFLY
- Start date
Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,.... Just leave abit of air gap, 'n ya should be just fine, especially where ever the case's vents are,....
I've got the AC/ DC model, 'n it don't get "Hot", at all,....
I've got the AC/ DC model, 'n it don't get "Hot", at all,....
Bretny
Well-known member
If you can feel the heat coming off it you have well exceed the duty cycle. An air gap of a few inches should be enough.
sberry
Banned
Good place for it. Find some lead to make extensions so you don't have to move it.
jhn9840
Well-known member
Lincoln 225 is a quality machine. You won’t have problems with it like you do with the HF buzz boxes .
jhn9840
John
jhn9840
John
Bretny
Well-known member
I think you win the smallest shop award. Looks very well put together.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
Shootinok
Well-known member
Great idea !!
The idea of having my AC225 up off the floor inspired me!
Still I was a little nervous about hanging it on my 2X purlins. I built a little post mount. Really like it up higher and not on the floor.
Now it has a permanent home. I will get some longer leads and quick connects and I'll be all set.
The idea of having my AC225 up off the floor inspired me!
Still I was a little nervous about hanging it on my 2X purlins. I built a little post mount. Really like it up higher and not on the floor.
Now it has a permanent home. I will get some longer leads and quick connects and I'll be all set.
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TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
Great idea !!
The idea of having my AC225 up off the floor inspired me!
Still I was a little nervous about hanging it on my 2X purlins. I built a little post mount. Really like it up higher and not on the floor.
Now it has a permanent home. I will get some longer leads and quick connects and I'll be all set.
tapered-pin
Well-known member
I've got one (older AC225 with the white plastic selector switch) that a friend gave me a couple years ago.. (I've only welded a few times but can't turn down an offer for a piece of quality equipment)..
I'm now working on my shop and I think this might be the route I go with mine.
anything in particular you guys would recommend?
the leads are old and one looks freyed, so I'll be replacing it (do you recommend "official" leads or just stranded wire?) and what size?
I'm now working on my shop and I think this might be the route I go with mine.
anything in particular you guys would recommend?
the leads are old and one looks freyed, so I'll be replacing it (do you recommend "official" leads or just stranded wire?) and what size?
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
If the ground lead is frayed, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just buy generic wire the same size as the OEM. It needs to be fine stranded welding cable...
I'm looking some cable to install on a welder that didn't come with any I fixed...you're going to be in for a shock when you see how much it is now. I'm looking around for another welder to buy just to get the cables from it.
tapered-pin
Well-known member
I'm pretty sure that 3/16" electrodes are the largest it should use..
HERE is the Lincoln AC 225 page
sberry
Banned
3/16 6011, it uses less current than the others and 7018AC in 5/32, found under Hobart at the farm stores.
I had a 205 AC Hobart. I never went above 1/8" rods. I stuck with 6011 and 7014. I hate 6013. I tried 7018AC but I didn't like tgem. I now have a Thermal Arc 160 and mostly use 6011 and 7018. The AC machine (I still have it) was a great starter machine for not much money. It fixed many things on the farm but I only use DC now.
tapered-pin
Well-known member
less than two dollars a foot, here
I assume when installing new leads, it's just necessary to use wire which will handle the amperage per the Lincoln recommendations
you just remove the connectors off each end and re-attach to the new cable, RIGHT?
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hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
Yeah there are spreadsheets that you use based upon max amp used and length of lead. You can also upsize the lead and for last 10 feet have a quick connect and reduce the lead size for flexibility and weight. Good welding leads are expensive because the copper wire is wound very thin to keep the leads flexible, unlike traditional copper home wiring. For an AC225 a number 2 size wire is pretty good. The whole thing is a trade-off capacity to weight, and of course cost. For an AC225 you will likely be running 1/8" rod so roughly 80-150 amp range.
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
For FTG-05
With regards to 1/4" electrode, Lincoln suggest 3/16" max for your application. I bet the machine would run the 1/4" but you will run into duty cycle pretty quickly. You would probably be better served with running 1/8" electrode good and hot in multipass with a deep v groove. Probably 6011 first pass to boil out junk, then AC7018 for your second and third pass, would likely work well.
With regards to 1/4" electrode, Lincoln suggest 3/16" max for your application. I bet the machine would run the 1/4" but you will run into duty cycle pretty quickly. You would probably be better served with running 1/8" electrode good and hot in multipass with a deep v groove. Probably 6011 first pass to boil out junk, then AC7018 for your second and third pass, would likely work well.
Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to upgrade the AC power cord vs. the welding leads? That's what I do typically. I did it on my original AC-225 years ago so I could go from the back wall where the outlet was to outside my garage (about 30 feet or so).
Granted, 6/2 or 8/2 (I forget what I used) is pretty expensive as well, but it's only one cable vs two.
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
You could do a combo of both. The longer leads help to get around the work. But yes a long extension cord is also helpful.
Good info. The question came from the fact that 3/16" electrodes (I *think* 7018) call for up to 175 amps. The AC-225 goes up to 225 amps. So what do you do with the extra 50 amps that's not being used?
Since I now live on a farm, the reason for this used $150 AC-225 was to weld thick heavy and perhaps rusty or dirty steel for tractor implements. So the priority is deep penetration on thick steel and I'm willing to sacrifice duty cycle to get it.
I've already got a Lincoln SP-175Plus MIG welder, so if the AC-225 is limited - by rod size - to 175 amps, it appears that I really didn't gain anything with the AC-225.
Thanks for the help!
hefnerconstructionlc
Well-known member
Not exactly the same, two different processes with different characteristics. With the stick you get easy application change with different rods, ability to weld dirty metal, ability to hardface and gouge, and the ability to weld in windy conditions also. With MIG your getting a higher production process.
With the extra amps, you can use the 225 with a 6011 and cut steel with it, or gouge. Not a pretty process, but helpful sometimes. You could also run the unit full out at 225 amps, but would likely be able to get more done with a smaller rod at less amps at a near continuous duty cycle.
With the extra amps, you can use the 225 with a 6011 and cut steel with it, or gouge. Not a pretty process, but helpful sometimes. You could also run the unit full out at 225 amps, but would likely be able to get more done with a smaller rod at less amps at a near continuous duty cycle.
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
tapered-pin
Well-known member
yes, if you ever plan on moving the unit.
95% of all my welding would be done in a single location within 20' of where the unit will sit (up on a wall, similar to some of the images on page 1 of the thread).
my current leads are about 8' and a little chewed up (welder is from the 80s).
I think I'm just going to clean the welder up and install panel sockets, and make some new 25' leads that use Dinse 35/50 connectors..
Thanks.
Ok, my bad, I forgot the original purpose of the thread. Correct: my AC is on it's own little cart with swivel wheels. I roll it where I want it and go to town.
Fixed to the wall like you plan: I'd be Amazoning those cables Fencer posted.
Good luck!
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
years ago I was in an "old school" welders shop...his welder sat next to his panel box and he had a two flat steel strip run all around his shop up out of the way with the "+" lead wired to one and the "-" to the other, he just moved his cables and clamps where he wanted them and clamped to those strips.
tapered-pin
Well-known member
years ago I was in an "old school" welders shop...his welder sat next to his panel box and he had a two flat steel strip run all around his shop up out of the way with the "+" lead wired to one and the "-" to the other, he just moved his cables and clamps where he wanted them and clamped to those strips.
it would freak me out to have a setup like that..
cause stuff happens..
TheEquineFencer
Well-known member
LOL, I know, it kinda got away with me too...
sberry
Banned
I have a ground in the floor to my benches, connected to the steel building too but have a section of lead for the stinger, with a Y, one runs to a location to serve the outdoor and some shop area and another stinger for the booth and welding bench. Back in the day when we were all stick it was important for work on bench and equipment, dragging leads back for bench work got old. I use the same ground for plasma.
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sberry
Banned
On heavy plate penetration is a function of joint design. How much heavy steel do you figure to fabricate since you now live on a farm?
There will be an occasional piece if you are busy but I cant even remember the last time I used a rod larger than 1/8 and even then its been nearly 10 years and on a customer job on a heavy loader bucket, 5 yard job.
Most of the work will be done with the little feeder. If I was serious about this would sell the ac off and find a dc. You could still use the AC 7018 to run some 5/32 if you had to but 99.5% of this work can be done 1/8.
If you note that a 300A blue machine sits next to the little AC/DC buzzer. I have never used it for sticks and it is a good machine for it. The little red one had burned boxes of rods, 1000's of welds. It is a VERY good welding machine. As good or better than my Maxstar as it relights used rods better.
If I was an excavating contractor then this would be slightly different, would have a Dialarc or Idealarc or bigger if I wanted to arc gouge and then needed to burn half a box of rod at a time on a regular basis.
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The following 3ph implements are going to have to be modified to fit my Quick Hitch:
- Box blade (almost done)
- bushhog
- rock rake
- disc
All are minimum of 1/2", some are 3/4". I'm not an experienced and/or certified weldor, so I make sure to overbuild and add a lot of doublers and gussets.
Like I said, for $150 for the AC-225, I figured it was a cheap investment for heavier welding rather than relying on the MIG SP-175Plus.
sberry
Banned
The mig is too small for this work. Not every 3/4 plate actually needs 3/4 of weld. I used my little machine yesterday, ran 1 stick of 1/8 7018 which is way more typical than truly heavy work.
I have those things, bush hog, believe only a couple brackets have 1/2, same for the disk, mostly 1/4. The brackets would take only an extra rod or 2 in localized areas.
I took my Maxstar to a forklift repair. Took pickup instead of my big truck. Worked all afternoon from customers 120v circuit and the only section that required more weld was about 4 or 5 inches long, took a couple extra roda and a pass to do it, about 5 minutes more.
I have those things, bush hog, believe only a couple brackets have 1/2, same for the disk, mostly 1/4. The brackets would take only an extra rod or 2 in localized areas.
I took my Maxstar to a forklift repair. Took pickup instead of my big truck. Worked all afternoon from customers 120v circuit and the only section that required more weld was about 4 or 5 inches long, took a couple extra roda and a pass to do it, about 5 minutes more.
sberry
Banned
Ok. Back to this for a little pontification and future reference. Nothing really bad about the machine or what you paid for it and any is better than none. A lot of equipment has been built with these and I have used them a lot.
Eventually,,,, ldepending on the area, some places the DC versions hang from the trees, some not and they are gonna quit making them as they are going to inverters every day. Same power machine, maybe more will run from 30A circuits and are light. The trannys are really sturdy though, ran them wayyyyyy beyond duty cycles and then some, every welder can relate, big ole handful of 1/8 7018 and run them as fast as they can go in the stinger. They will run from a 10 cord especially on the DC side. They use a couple less A.
I like th4em stationary though if I can help it and some lead. I am a career welder, I have it so its no big deal but I might look for some used welder deals and score some. I bought some new when I bought new machines but scored a lot used too. On the Lincs its all soldered in and tight, I simply cut off a foot outside the machine and put connectors on. Depending on what I had etc, wouldn't hesitate to split bolt it on and tape it, split it. I took out some extras in the last remodel as it had kind of grown and hatched connectors.
Eventually,,,, ldepending on the area, some places the DC versions hang from the trees, some not and they are gonna quit making them as they are going to inverters every day. Same power machine, maybe more will run from 30A circuits and are light. The trannys are really sturdy though, ran them wayyyyyy beyond duty cycles and then some, every welder can relate, big ole handful of 1/8 7018 and run them as fast as they can go in the stinger. They will run from a 10 cord especially on the DC side. They use a couple less A.
I like th4em stationary though if I can help it and some lead. I am a career welder, I have it so its no big deal but I might look for some used welder deals and score some. I bought some new when I bought new machines but scored a lot used too. On the Lincs its all soldered in and tight, I simply cut off a foot outside the machine and put connectors on. Depending on what I had etc, wouldn't hesitate to split bolt it on and tape it, split it. I took out some extras in the last remodel as it had kind of grown and hatched connectors.
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sberry
Banned
The pic above is stuff I took out. Ha but I like enough I can walk all the way around on projects, jump with the lead. Stinger can be longer than the ground. If I found enough decent used cable may even put stinger direct, a connector cost money and can be in the way, a simple **** splice could work too. I make extensions or whips from the old cables but again,,, it makes more sense for me as I have several machines and can interchange leads, not such an issue for the 1 machine shop.
I have a lead from my welding bench too,,, its grounded and it reaches the area mostly for plasma. Got a common clamp on it as does the ground for side door in the pics above.
I think one may be able to see the piece of lead wound up on the corner of the bench next to the cutting box.
You may be able to see in second pic that there is a Y in the stinger with disconnect on each lead and a connector on the ground side cuts it away from the building system ground so the machine could be moved by taking 2 connectors apart and unplugging from the power, I can steal the ground from the bench and connect to it and its portable. I havnt moved it since I set it there. I have changed its location a little and while it was super handy in some respects from its old location this is a little better, the use is down some and no big deal to take another couple steps to turn the switch on. I had some handles on the cart I cut off when I moved it, didn't need them anyway
I have a lead from my welding bench too,,, its grounded and it reaches the area mostly for plasma. Got a common clamp on it as does the ground for side door in the pics above.
I think one may be able to see the piece of lead wound up on the corner of the bench next to the cutting box.
You may be able to see in second pic that there is a Y in the stinger with disconnect on each lead and a connector on the ground side cuts it away from the building system ground so the machine could be moved by taking 2 connectors apart and unplugging from the power, I can steal the ground from the bench and connect to it and its portable. I havnt moved it since I set it there. I have changed its location a little and while it was super handy in some respects from its old location this is a little better, the use is down some and no big deal to take another couple steps to turn the switch on. I had some handles on the cart I cut off when I moved it, didn't need them anyway
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bczygan
Well-known member
sberry,
I have the AC/DC machine. What benefits does having the DC give?
Bill
I have the AC/DC machine. What benefits does having the DC give?
Bill