LM8500 Wall Controller Failure.

[HoosierMark]

3 years ago based upon GJ information I installed three 8500 openers with wired wall controllers. One failed about 3 months ago and one failed last week. I called Liftmaster and told them of the problem. One door opened in the middle of the night and one opened part way in the afternoon last week while I was near the remote. I could hear the remote ticking as it did this. I called the company tech rep today. I explained what had happened, told her I had read on GJ about the problems that were happening. She very quickly said she would send me three new controllers. I had the confirmation order within 15 minutes of her hanging up. Now that is customer service.

 

[wssix99]

She very quickly said she would send me three new controllers. I had the confirmation order within 15 minutes of her hanging up. Now that is customer service.

For a problem like this, we have to shut down the doors and bolt them until the replacements arrive.

Better customer service would be a same day air drop of the replacements from a helicopter in the back yard. ... or a proper product recall!

 

[rite_accord]

For a problem like this, we have to shut down the doors and bolt them until the replacements arrive.

Better customer service would be ... or a proper product recall! /QUOTE]

From the previous discussions, it would seem that you could remove all of the 888LM's and replace them with plain old unlighted doorbell buttons.

Doing so would allow the doors to be operated (by the doorbell buttons) until the replacement control panels arrive (beats raising/lowering the doors manually).

But I agree, this issue is a serious issue that should be addressed by a product recall, as it puts owners at risk due to the lack of security the product presently provides.

 

[sse1990]

Just today I had a 4 year old 888lm wall control fail on one of my 2, 8500C openers. I called liftmaster and they are sending a replacement. I have another year warranty left and may get a controller for the second opener before it fails. Maybe I’ll wait a couple months before I call again. Unless it fails before then.

When it failed, I was in the garage and heard beeping. Took me a bit to figure out where the beeping came from. My panel went dead, but the door didn’t open, it stayed closed. At first I thought my opener was dead, but a little bit of troubleshooting and it was the wall control.
For now, I have the 2 wires just sitting there that went into the controller and I just touch them together to open the door.

I use the app on my phone often and like getting notifications anytime one of the doors are opened. I will have to install another 888LM to keep the functions I use. Otherwise I would change to a different controller, like the 850LM as mentioned earlier in the thread.

 

[wssix99]

From the previous discussions, it would seem that you could remove all of the 888LM's and replace them with plain old unlighted doorbell buttons.

Doing so would allow the doors to be operated (by the doorbell buttons) until the replacement control panels arrive (beats raising/lowering the doors manually).

Yea, I don't give this option many more points above opening the doors manually. At the point, I have to get out of the car and stumble forth, to open the door (one way or another), the experience is a loss. I might as well crank-start the car, also...

 

[rite_accord]

Yea, I don't give this option many more points above opening the doors manually. At the point, I have to get out of the car and stumble forth, to open the door (one way or another), the experience is a loss. I might as well crank-start the car, also...

Wasn't suggesting using a doorbell switch forever, just until they got the new 888LM since it sounded as though delivery may take a few days or more. From your previous post, it sounded like you preferred just disconnecting the opener, bolting the door, and not using the garage at all.

 

[wssix99]

Wasn't suggesting using a doorbell switch forever, just until they got the new 888LM since it sounded as though delivery may take a few days or more. From your previous post, it sounded like you preferred just disconnecting the opener, bolting the door, and not using the garage at all.

Yea, I'm just pointing out that any option, including waiting for new units to be shipped is really really inconvenient.


I wish Liftmaster would be more forthcoming with technical information related to what is going on here. They appear to have a model of this opener available for sale now, which uses a regular doorbell button and normal commercial remote controls - but it warns for commercial use only. (I can't understand why they would do that...)

 

[sse1990]

Quick update. I called Monday which is a holiday here in Canada. They told me 5-7 business days and because only one wall control failed they could only ship one.

I get home today and there is a package that arrived. I received the replacement in 2 days, plus they shipped me 2 wall controls.

If I get another 4 years of no problems like I’ve had, then I can’t complain much. Only failure with 2, 8500c units, was the one wall control.

 

[patrickoneal]

I highly recommend AGAINST powering your control panel from a lab power supply or other source. Also do not add any circuitry between the opener and control panel like a linear voltage regulator. Those two wires are NOT just power, they are power AND a 2 way communications network. The control panel is expecting a specific source impedance and voltage from the opener. The control panel uses the available power for it's operation, but it also shorts out it's own power supply to provide digital communications back to the opener, signaling the opener to perform certain functions like open your door. It also monitors the power supply for communication data from the opener. Placing any circuitry between the opener and control panel will block this communication.
I have a 3800 and a 3900. After one control panel failure of "phantom opening" I removed both wall units and installed doorbell style push buttons. I briefly looked at reverse engineering the communications protocol, but soon lost interest.
For people with 8500 openers or others openers where the vehicle remote receiver is built into the control panel and are experiencing repeated failures, I might suggest a workaround.
Liftmaster and others sell a "receiver" that is designed to add remote functionality to commercial garage and gate openers that do not have remote functions. These receivers simply have a relay that acts just like a momentary push button. Thus, throw your control panel in the trash, install a doorbell for manual operation, then the receiver to add vehicle remote functionality.
I've been using the 850LM on one of my commercial openers for 4 years now.

https://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/li85ungaandg.html

Brian

Bumping an older thread...

I just bought an 888lm for an older craftsman(chamberlain rebrand) garage door opener that has a failing remote receiver in it. I stumbled upon this thread and all the bad reviews for the 888lm controllers failing. The one I just installed has a fresh build date on it, so hopefully it lasts.

My concern is my liftmaster 8500 in my other garage. I bought it in April of 2015, so I'm guessing failure is imminent.

As for using a stand alone receiver, I wonder if this one would work along with a doorbell switch:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Genie-U...sion-Upgrade-Extension-Kit-GIRUD-1T/100654121

It has great reviews, and gets you completely away from Chamberlain/Liftmaster.

 

[jmorriss]

Bumping an older thread...

I just bought an 888lm for an older craftsman(chamberlain rebrand) garage door opener that has a failing remote receiver in it. I stumbled upon this thread and all the bad reviews for the 888lm controllers failing. The one I just installed has a fresh build date on it, so hopefully it lasts.

My concern is my liftmaster 8500 in my other garage. I bought it in April of 2015, so I'm guessing failure is imminent.

As for using a stand alone receiver, I wonder if this one would work along with a doorbell switch:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Genie-U...sion-Upgrade-Extension-Kit-GIRUD-1T/100654121

It has great reviews, and gets you completely away from Chamberlain/Liftmaster.

I don't see any reason it wouldn't work, that's a GREAT find!

 

[patrickoneal]

I don't see any reason it wouldn't work, that's a GREAT find!

Another thing... I'm 99% certain my 8500 has a yellow antenna wire hanging out of it, which leads me to believe is has an onboard receiver. I know that my remotes are programmed to the 888lm wall control, but it seems like the opener has a receiver as well. Can remotes not be directly programmed to the opener itself rather than the wall controller?

Edit: that antenna is probably for communicating with the light.

 

[Doorhanger]

Installing a JackShaft LM8500 or the new 8500W isn't an issue on LHR. You just have to convert the low headroom track to inside pickup. Which is incredibly easy to do, you can place the drums on the inside of the end bearing plate and shim them out with a two dollar loose center bearing so the cables won't hit the low head room track. You can also use 8' cables, and the extra length will allow it to wrap enough times around the drum so that the cables won't touch the track. Or if you have a handy dandy angle grinder, you can just cut 1'' off the top fixture track from the closest point to the header back. The Jackshaft is a perfect motor for nearly every application with a torsion tube. The issues with the wall control are frequent. I have them often in my area, the main problem seems to be power surges. The problem with the wall button going back in the standard 8500 is that it's considered the "brain" of the motor, holds all of the opening codes to remotes, as well as the limits on the motor itself. Very easily replaceable and Lift Master almost always honors the warranty on them as well as every other product they carry.

 

[OldNeons]

They appear to have a model of this opener available for sale now, which uses a regular doorbell button and normal commercial remote controls - but it warns for commercial use only. (I can't understand why they would do that...)

Could someone please advise what the part number is for this "commercial" model is?

are there other options for jackshaft openers out there besides getting into the really expensive industrial units? I need 3 openers in the next month and am not sure what to get? thanks in advance

 

[GS-Louie]

I had an interesting issue with the 888LM Controllers. On MyLiftmaster.com it told me I needed a new internet gateway. I had one sent out with no problem and installed it. I couldn't get either of the 888LM units to connect with it. After a several hour terrible experience with tech support and a few falsehoods I got in touch with 2nd level support. We went through the required steps to make sure it didn't work and then she identified it as bad 888LM units. I asked her what the error 900 was that I got many emails on. She said it was a bad 888LM. Got 2 new ones today, installed, reprogrammed and all is well. Sure wish the first guy would have found out what the code was.

For those interested, the capacitors were fine on the control units. They were installed about 3 years ago and I did not have any unintended door openings.

Lou

 

[frank001]

This morning I went outside and found my garage door open. The light on the LM888 was out and would not close the door. I have three 8500 openers and this is the second to fail this way. The date on the controller is 2/2015.
I was able to close the door by removing the two wires and touching them together.
I took the controller apart but saw no visual problem with it. The electrolytic capacitors looked ok.
I have contacted Chamberlin to see if they will send a replacement controller.

 

[wssix99]

^ Not good.

 

[frank001]

This morning I went outside and found my garage door open. The light on the LM888 was out and would not close the door. I have three 8500 openers and this is the second to fail this way. The date on the controller is 2/2015.
I was able to close the door by removing the two wires and touching them together.
I took the controller apart but saw no visual problem with it. The electrolytic capacitors looked ok.
I have contacted Chamberlin to see if they will send a replacement controller.

I received an answer from Chamberlin. They want me to send them a picture of the back of the wall controller showing the build date, and a picture of the opener with the serial number.

 

[wssix99]

I received an answer from Chamberlin. They want me to send them a picture of the back of the wall controller showing the build date, and a picture of the opener with the serial number.

Please keep us updated. This makes me very afraid...

 

[slodat]

Anyone have any success using a z-wave receptacle/switch to remove power from the opener?

 

[Vintage Veloce]

Anyone have any success using a z-wave receptacle/switch to remove power from the opener?

Yes, I have been using three of these Zooz Z-Wave Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07578W7KY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It has worked great, and there is now zero chance the door opens overnight or when we are on vacation.

 

[kbuhagiar]

Anyone have any success using a z-wave receptacle/switch to remove power from the opener?

I have Wemo switches on both of my 8500s.

Definitely worth it for the peace of mind.

 

[slodat]

Thanks guys! I ordered z-wave receptacles that I’ll control with my HomeSeer system.

It’s ridiculous we have to do this to prevent a random garage door opening.

 

[frank001]

Originally Posted by frank001 View Post
I received an answer from Chamberlin. They want me to send them a picture of the back of the wall controller showing the build date, and a picture of the opener with the serial number.

Please keep us updated. This makes me very afraid...

I received a replacement wall controller in the mail today. Build date 10/2018.

 

[slodat]

I got the z-wave receptacles installed today to eliminate the possibility of these controllers opening a door on its own. It's all working well.

Edited to add: The MyQ is essentially dead with this option. MyQ only shows the door's status (open/closed) after I open the door with the local panel or remote control. This means I can't turn on power via z-wave and then open the door from MyQ, which kinda *****.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

The MyQ is essentially dead with this option. MyQ only shows the door's status (open/closed) after I open the door with the local panel or remote control. This means I can't turn on power via z-wave and then open the door from MyQ, which kinda *****.

What? I don't understand...

 

[Lonnies Performance]

The MyQ app will not recognize the door opener until the door is opened/closed after a power failure... when the power blips, it is "offline" until operated again by either the wall control or a remote.

 

[kbuhagiar]

I got the z-wave receptacles installed today to eliminate the possibility of these controllers opening a door on its own. It's all working well.

Edited to add: The MyQ is essentially dead with this option. MyQ only shows the door's status (open/closed) after I open the door with the local panel or remote control. This means I can't turn on power via z-wave and then open the door from MyQ, which kinda *****.

I have the same issue with the Wemo wireless switches, but it is an inconvenience I am willing to live with.

 

[slodat]

I’m living with it, too. Way too much risk with this defect.

Too bad they won’t just fix it so the controller fails and does nothing with door position.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

The MyQ app will not recognize the door opener until the door is opened/closed after a power failure... when the power blips, it is "offline" until operated again by either the wall control or a remote.

I have no such problems with my Wink Hub 2 and Zooz Z-wave z15 switches. I also have the MyQ Gateway. My Z-wave shuts the power off to the opener every night and things work fine, as far as I can tell...

edit: I never use the myQ or Winks app to open or close the doors. I only use it to turn the power off to the opener overnight automatically and manually when I am going to be out of town for a couple days or more.

 

[slodat]

I have no such problems with my Wink Hub 2 and Zooz Z-wave z15 switches. I also have the MyQ Gateway. My Z-wave shuts the power off to the opener every night and things work fine, as far as I can tell...

When you power the opener up, are you able to control it from the MyQ app? Or are you using the wall control/remote to operate the opener first?

When I power up, MyQ doesn’t know the open/closed status until I operate with either the wall control or a remote.

 

[kbuhagiar]

When you power the opener up, are you able to control it from the MyQ app? Or are you using the wall control/remote to operate the opener first?

When I power up, MyQ doesn’t know the open/closed status until I operate with either the wall control or a remote.

Same situation here with the Wemo switches.

 

[Lonnies Performance]

My power blips about every 2 days, so it ***** that the app only works half the time.

 

[Vintage Veloce]

When you power the opener up, are you able to control it from the MyQ app? Or are you using the wall control/remote to operate the opener first?

When I power up, MyQ doesn’t know the open/closed status until I operate with either the wall control or a remote.

Whoops sorry. I edited my statement above. I don't open or close the door with the Wink nor the MyQ apps. I just use the Wink app to automatically turn off the power to the door overnight every night with the Zooz Z15 switches.
I did a quick test, and you guys are right, the MyQ app won't open the door after a power cycle until you have manually opened the door first. So that *****, but... it the Z-Wave power control is still a good way to prevent your door from opening overnight.

 

[PoorOwner]

Where I work, given there is already an electrical engineer with access to company's schematic, he would have redesigned it to fix the problem in less than 2 weeks, maybe $5k in salary cost. Extra to layout the PCB and manufacture it but eventually it will roll out to replace the existing defective design. OK rant over..


Here is my idea, we need to use that smart plug, not to turn the whole unit off but to control a relay so the continuity on one of the wire is cut when it is off. Then, only when you want to use the garage door you turn on the relay (120VAC coil). This way, when the failing wall controller wants complete the circuit while you are not home or asleep, smart switch is off and continuity of that one wire is not established, won't open the door. And you don't have the inconvenience of the whole opener turned off.

 

[slodat]

The wall control’s two wires are the data bus, also.. thinking this would have the same end result.

edit:: what I think would work well would be to use dry contacts controlled remotely, wired into a Liftmaster remote control. I’m going this route.

 

[slodat]

Ordered one of these to work with the remote.

 

[PoorOwner]

Ordered one of these to work with the remote.

how does it work?

 

[slodat]

how does it work?

Just ordered it tonight. I’ll be using its contacts to operate the opener remote’s buttons.

 

[slodat]

The Sonoff Pro R2 works great!

 

[garagelogician]

The Sonoff Pro R2 works great!

I need some explanation and clarification here... So do you need to take any extra steps to open or close the door as you come and go?

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