LM8500 Wall Controller Failure.

[Mobilejay]

So what’s the consensus on the models? Or does it not matter and it comes down to luck with these wall controls? I’m wanting to get a wall mount 8500W but I don’t want to deal with potential issues. I have 3 chain drive (can’t remember model) that came with the house over a year ago and we haven’t had any issues as of yet (knock on wood).


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[lonejacklarry]

I'm curious about the "new and improved" models, as well. Usually, there are far more complaints about a faulty product than there are compliments. Squeaky wheel, etc.

My garage door openers do not need to be nor do I want them to be internet capable. All I'm looking for is two things: a-push the button and the door goes up and b- push the button and the door goes down.

I'm also concerned about the door failing in the open position. In the pre-internet age stuff failed where it sat; if it failed open it stayed open and if it failed shut it stayed shut and you had to pull the rope.

Maybe I'm just old. And get off of my lawn!

 

[ExxWhy]

I'm curious about the "new and improved" models, as well. Usually, there are far more complaints about a faulty product than there are compliments. Squeaky wheel, etc.

My garage door openers do not need to be nor do I want them to be internet capable. All I'm looking for is two things: a-push the button and the door goes up and b- push the button and the door goes down.

I'm also concerned about the door failing in the open position. In the pre-internet age stuff failed where it sat; if it failed open it stayed open and if it failed shut it stayed shut and you had to pull the rope.

Maybe I'm just old. And get off of my lawn!

I believe something shorts out in the controller which will trigger the door to open. If you remove the wall control, you can touch the wires together and the door will open. Touch again and the door closes.

Time will tell on the "new and improved". The replacement controllers came last week and both boxes had the blue sticker on them. Hopefully it means more than just a sticker.

The rep from Chamberlain told me the cutoff date on the free replacement controllers was 2016, so in theory those made 2017 and later should be OK. Reps say a lot of things.

 

[Mobilejay]

Well I spoke too soon. One of mine opened up this morning. Called and they will send out a replacement with the 888. From what he said the ones manufactured after August 2018 are fine. I know there are others that have been told multiple different dates so we’ll see.


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[lemmy999]

I haven't read every post but about 6-7 pages throughout this thread, but it seems that all of the 888LM failures have been on the 8500 openers. Is the 888LM failing on standard rail/trolly openers as well? I have a 6.5 year old Chamberlain WD962KEV that game with the Chamberlain 041A7327-1 which is pretty much identical to the 888LM and so far I have not had any issues. But I am in the process of installing a LM 8500W on my other door and it comes with an 880LMW which supposedly has problems as well.

 

[Richie Rich]

So what’s the consensus on the models? Or does it not matter and it comes down to luck with these wall controls? I’m wanting to get a wall mount 8500W but I don’t want to deal with potential issues. I have 3 chain drive (can’t remember model) that came with the house over a year ago and we haven’t had any issues as of yet (knock on wood).


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My 2 8500W have been in service for about a year now and haven't acted up.
Except for one thing. On the 8500W you can program remotes from the wall mount controller. One of the two works perfectly, the other one cycles the door anytime I go into the setup menu and press any button. Wound up having to program the remotes via the button on the main unit.

 

[NitroShark]

I haven't read every post but about 6-7 pages throughout this thread, but it seems that all of the 888LM failures have been on the 8500 openers. Is the 888LM failing on standard rail/trolly openers as well?

Yes, it fails on both. I have (5) 888LM, 3 on a 8500 and 2 on a trolly.

..2 have failed.

 

[mcgivor2]

I have eight of these units four on 8500 and four on older units the 888lm Manufacture date 2014
Two of the eight have failed now . Door Open I'm on holidays 1st time and 1 Hr away the second at work in the country .

I'm looking for a replacement as this is not safe . Very disappointed.

 

[MoonShiner]

Has anyone received replacements lately? I requested one via the link provided here but never got it. When I go to that link now it wants a login.

 

[B964]

Has anyone received replacements lately? I requested one via the link provided here but never got it. When I go to that link now it wants a login.

I've been trying for a couple months to get an answer about my two failed controllers.

Used the "contact us" link. No response.

I reviewed the product poorly and received "A customer service rep will contact you". Never did.

Again used the "contact us link" and was somewhat less pleasant then I normally am. Received an email with non western English style grammar stating they emailed me several times and I never replied. No such emails in any of my mail folders.
The next email was a request for pictures of the backs of controllers. Then an email requesting my address.

So are they sending me new ones? Who knows.

Yes, it seems now they want a login to even contact them.

 

[Matt M PA]

I’m sorry to see all these troubles. I looked at the Liftmaster 3800s when I built my garage and wound up gong with openers by Sommer. They’ve been good the 10 years or so since install. I used these as they would be mounted to one end of the door...as opposed to the midddle....to keep clearance for the lift.

 

[ben1000]

The problem with the 888LM's as several have mentioned seems to be that for compatibly with the standard 2-conductor connection between opener/control they've chosen to re-purpose the connection as power rather than signal. They draw power off the line slowly to avoid the other side thinking a contact closure has happened and then do all the actual signalling wirelessly. The other side has to monitor for contact closeure to retain compatibility with regular 'dumb' pushbuttons. When the capacitors fail the normal idle operation of the 888LM's microcontroller can create current spikes and the opener side can interpret these spikes as a 'dumb' button push.

With all this in mind (and if this understanding is correct?), shouldn't it be possible to just power the 888LM's separately? (i.e. wall wart) If they fail and draw more instantaneous current, then nothing really happens because the opener isn't powering it - open circuit, sees no change.

Has anyone tried this? I installed one 8500 this weekend and have 2 more arriving today. I may try it (all 3 888LM's can be powered together). If it works it'll be good peace of mind...

 

[ArcticGabe]

The problem with the 888LM's as several have mentioned seems to be that for compatibly with the standard 2-conductor connection between opener/control they've chosen to re-purpose the connection as power rather than signal. They draw power off the line slowly to avoid the other side thinking a contact closure has happened and then do all the actual signalling wirelessly. The other side has to monitor for contact closeure to retain compatibility with regular 'dumb' pushbuttons. When the capacitors fail the normal idle operation of the 888LM's microcontroller can create current spikes and the opener side can interpret these spikes as a 'dumb' button push.

With all this in mind (and if this understanding is correct?), shouldn't it be possible to just power the 888LM's separately? (i.e. wall wart) If they fail and draw more instantaneous current, then nothing really happens because the opener isn't powering it - open circuit, sees no change.

Has anyone tried this? I installed one 8500 this weekend and have 2 more arriving today. I may try it (all 3 888LM's can be powered together). If it works it'll be good peace of mind...

I read through this whole thread since I am (was) considering getting an 8500W. I was thinking the exact same thing... Is it possible to remove the hardwire connection between the controller and the unit and power the controller with a battery or external power supply.

This might be a solution if someone can determine the correct voltage to power the controller with.

 

[ben1000]

unfortunately no dice on the separate power supply idea. I've found a few things:
#1 - The 8500 ignores remotes unless the 888 is connected. This is even true for a homelink car that was programmed using the yellow button on the 8500.

#2 - If two 888's are switched, the learned remotes follow the 888, they don't stay with the 8500.

#3- When the 888 is powered separately, it seems to 'boot' OK but never gets the steady orange LED.

These factors lead me to think that something a lot more complex is going on - at a minimum the 888 is storing the codes (#2) and using the wired connection for communication (#3). With that being the case it's not clear why they bother to support the contact closure option; maybe this is only really needed in commercial applications without remotes.

It's worth mentioning that my 8500 kits came with a flyer/addendum to the manual stating "use the learn button on the MyQ control panel to program all aessories - the yellow and black buttons are used for programming travel and will NOT program accessories. The MyQ ccontrol panel MUST be used for programming all accessories" so maybe they've recently disabled the RF capability of the 8500 and the 888 is doing it all? (though I was able to program with yellow button)

 

[PoorOwner]

Today I found one of the keypad PIN will not open that particular 8500 which I have always used. As if it is not there at all.

After I relearn (relearn button is on the wall button pad, not the opener) , it is ok again. I was wondering if this a sign that the wall button unit is starting to go bad?

 

[gnpenning]

Did you check the voltage of the key pad battery?

 

[PoorOwner]

Did you check the voltage of the key pad battery?

I put in a new 9V battery, no change.

 

[gnpenning]

I have not heard of that being a precursor before. You never know with them.

So even after you put a new battery in and cleared the memory then relearning it still doesn't work with the keyless? Do the remotes work? If so it may be a bad keyless if it's the only thing not working.

I don't see many keyless failures, but it happens.

 

[PoorOwner]

it worked after relearning the keypad again, but it was like the wall controller have lost knowledge of the PIN programming. The remotes for cars still worked.


The way I understand the learning is stored in the wall controller, so this kind of "dementia" is not a good sign. to play it safe, I ended up putting the newer replacements I have around.. but the 5 minute LED for door timer is broken and doesn't come on. Poor quality control.

 

[hmbemis]

I was pretty disappointed to realize that my Chamberlain (Liftmaster) openers do not support a simple momentary switch (like a doorbell) to trigger opening and closing -- you've got to use their controllers.

It looks like they put ~12V on the lines and then must modulate some digital signal on there to communicate back to the opener brain, simply shorting the wires will not make the door move on the modern openers.

Fortunately the fat-doorbell-button style controllers are about $9 on Amazon, so it's not a crazy price if you need a few of them.

...but you'd think they could just add a pair of normally-open input terminals on the back of the opener to allow the old style simple button as an option for those who want it (or people like me that have a custom setup w/ relays).

 

[PoorOwner]

I was pretty disappointed to realize that my Chamberlain (Liftmaster) openers do not support a simple momentary switch (like a doorbell) to trigger opening and closing -- you've got to use their controllers.

It looks like they put ~12V on the lines and then must modulate some digital signal on there to communicate back to the opener brain, simply shorting the wires will not make the door move on the modern openers.

Fortunately the fat-doorbell-button style controllers are about $9 on Amazon, so it's not a crazy price if you need a few of them.

...but you'd think they could just add a pair of normally-open input terminals on the back of the opener to allow the old style simple button as an option for those who want it (or people like me that have a custom setup w/ relays).

True but you just have to do this with a spare wireless remote on the wall or take one apart and use relay and wires.

 

[rjacobs]

Contemplating doing two 8500's in my new house, but dont like the potential issues. I dont care about wifi or any of that kind of functionality.

Looks like I would need an LM850 for the wireless control of the motors. Can 1 unit run 2 doors? The literature reads like that is the case. Can it control them independently?

Then the 78LM would replace the 888 controller on the wall and run to the opener via the 2 wire connection...

This eliminates the "troublesome" controller even though I regress to a less "intelligent" controller, which im ok with.

 

[PhantomEB]

I am now in the position to just order a new wall control panel for my 16x9. well a pair/trio of keyfob openers. Tired of the issues this current wall opener has been giving me.

Don’t got wifi out there yet.

Which opener to get?!

 

[sam88]

I just got my new RJO20 installed which is almost the same as 8500. However the remote and the 828LM gateway stopped connecting to the opener after a day. Everything else is working except the remote and the gateway. I tried erasing the memory and reprogramming on the wall control 888LM but it failed. The red learning light never goes off when programing. I'm sure the remote is working as it can connect to my old opener. Is the 888LM defective? It has a fair new manufacture date of 03/19

 

[rite_accord]

I was pretty disappointed to realize that my Chamberlain (Liftmaster) openers do not support a simple momentary switch (like a doorbell) to trigger opening and closing -- you've got to use their controllers.

It looks like they put ~12V on the lines and then must modulate some digital signal on there to communicate back to the opener brain, simply shorting the wires will not make the door move on the modern openers.

Fortunately the fat-doorbell-button style controllers are about $9 on Amazon, so it's not a crazy price if you need a few of them.

...but you'd think they could just add a pair of normally-open input terminals on the back of the opener to allow the old style simple button as an option for those who want it (or people like me that have a custom setup w/ relays).

On my LM8500 (not LM8500W) (red enclosure, installed in early 2014), the door does open and close by just momentarily shorting the control wires. After my 888LM panel failed, I operated my door with a simple pushbutton switch (Liftmaster 041A4166) and an 850LM universal controller for the car remotes. While the door would work just fine, the associated light could not be operated independently of the door. I later upgraded to a 78LM in place of the pushbutton to regain independent control of the light. No Internet capability, but I wasn't interested in that feature.

 

[rite_accord]

Contemplating doing two 8500's in my new house, but dont like the potential issues. I dont care about wifi or any of that kind of functionality.

Looks like I would need an LM850 for the wireless control of the motors. Can 1 unit run 2 doors? The literature reads like that is the case. Can it control them independently?

Then the 78LM would replace the 888 controller on the wall and run to the opener via the 2 wire connection...

This eliminates the "troublesome" controller even though I regress to a less "intelligent" controller, which im ok with.

As I've posted, I have an 850LM and 78LM on a single door, and it works fine. As for multiple doors, the instructions for the 850LM indicate that yes, the three channels of the 850LM can be programmed and operated independently (although in my application, I've never attempted to do this). Note that in order to power the 850LM, you'll need an 85LM or similar wall wart power adapter, and you would need a 78LM for at least one door (but you could use a simple pushbutton for the other door if it doesn't control the 380LM light). You won't have any Internet capability with the set-up I just described, but you indicated that wasn't needed in your case.

 

[like2wheel]

I just got my new RJO20 installed which is almost the same as 8500. However the remote and the 828LM gateway stopped connecting to the opener after a day. Everything else is working except the remote and the gateway. I tried erasing the memory and reprogramming on the wall control 888LM but it failed. The red learning light never goes off when programing. I'm sure the remote is working as it can connect to my old opener. Is the 888LM defective? It has a fair new manufacture date of 03/19

Interested in your outcome.
I have 2) RJO20 of the same vintage that I have not installed yet.

 

[PhantomEB]

I am now in the position to just order a new wall control panel for my 16x9. well a pair/trio of keyfob openers. Tired of the issues this current wall opener has been giving me.

Don’t got wifi out there yet.

Which opener to get?!

Still looking for my answer....

 

[crocket468]

I started having these phantom openings this week then my LM888's stopped working all together. Also have a 8500 deadbolt that stopped functioning as well.

Called Chamberlain and after a few mins on the phone and sending emails with pics of the MFG date/serial numbers the rep stated they would be sending me replacements for the two controllers and the deadbolt. They emailed me an order number, Ill report back when I receive them. Its obvious that Chamberlain is well aware of the problems.

 

[like2wheel]

I started having these phantom openings this week then my LM888's stopped working all together. Also have a 8500 deadbolt that stopped functioning as well.

Called Chamberlain and after a few mins on the phone and sending emails with pics of the MFG date/serial numbers the rep stated they would be sending me replacements for the two controllers and the deadbolt. They emailed me an order number, Ill report back when I receive them. Its obvious that Chamberlain is well aware of the problems.

What is the MFG date?

 

[crocket468]

What is the MFG date?

Jan 2015

Hopefully the revised version will not have these issues.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

MyQ was on sale on Amazon for $30, so I just picked on up. Installing tonight.
At least I'll know if it's open or closed.

 

[48548]

MyQ was on sale on Amazon for $30, so I just picked on up. Installing tonight.
At least I'll know if it's open or closed.

My q didn't show when my controller failed.... it cant report to it since the controller fries and opens the door....

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[PhantomEB]

What is the biggest and baddest controller they offering these days. Need one that’s not gonna give me issues like this one is. I Canada so Liftmaster ain’t helping me with warranty issues.

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

My q didn't show when my controller failed.... it cant report to it since the controller fries and opens the door....

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I'll take your word for it, but I assumed the black box I stuck to my door tells the myQ that it is open or closed. I'll try when I get home, to open it manually and see if the myQ shows open or closed.

 

[PhantomEB]

888 and a second keyfob ordered up, now my gf will have one as well. No more leaving an opener in the car. I have all my keys on one keychain and so does she so I feeling a lot more secure now.

 

[crocket468]

Quick update, received my two 889LMs and my replacement door deadbolt. Haven't gotten them swapped out yet but plan to tomorrow.

VERY happy with their customer service.

 

[amateurwheels]

I’ve done this and mine is off unless called for. The ****** part is this gargae door opener takes two minutes to “boot up”, so if I forget to activate the outlets 2 minutes from home I’ve got to wait in the drive.

Yeah, this part about the 8500 is no good. I keep mine on dedicated breakers and power them off at a remote property. I installed 8500W's on my house doors, and they do not have the long boot up time. They are almost instantaneous.

 

[Camaro Mike]

This thread is an example of the help available here and why I lurk regularly. A big thanks to all who have posted. I installed my 8500 in the summer of 2015 and had issues with the 888LM from the start. It would randomly go into learning mode beeping when it did. No amount of troubleshooting with LiftMaster support solved the problem. I began to think it was a personal problem. One day it just stopped the behavior. I only used it during the summer months and it seemed to work fine so I moved on to other projects.

I typically unplugged the 8500 over the winter. For whatever reason, I didn't unplug the 8500 this fall. A few weeks ago I found the garage door with the 8500 wide open during a driving snowstorm and a growing layer of snow on several of my babies. I wasn't happy. The 888LM had died, no signs of life, no nothing. Its last act had been to open the garage door.

After reading through this thread I was happy to find that I wasn't the only one to struggle, there was a support group. Based on your posts, I reached out to LiftMaster support one last time, they were very helpful. They replaced the old controller with a new 889LM under warranty. After my experience with the 888LM, I have trust issues. Has anyone that has replaced their 888LM controller with an 889LM had any repeat problems?

 

[SGKent]

I began to think it was a personal problem.

Has anyone that has replaced their 888LM controller with an 889LM had any repeat problems?

if it wasn't, it has become one now.

New ad for competitor should run: "Do you wake up in the middle of the night in cold sweats wondering if your babies are alright - wondering if the garage door has opened itself... you need Dr Williams' 'Perfect Sync Garage Door Opener,' guaranteed to provide a good nights rest. Do you hear noises in the night? Wonder no more with Dr. Williams' 'Perfect Sync'. Call: 1-800-123-4567 now.