I think the opposite is true--you'd typically use a smaller/shorter ratchet in tight clearances, where the swing arc (tooth count) is quite relevant. Typically you're only using a long ratchet when you have plenty of clearance. I own the 1/2" Williams S-52EHLA (36 tooth) and there's never been a time while using it when I thought: "My gosh, I need a fine tooth ratchet!"
Here's when I've needed a fine tooth ratchet: when changing spark plugs on the back side of my V6 Camry, where clearance was so tight that my hands and fingers were getting cut up. That's when my Snap-on FF80A was worth its weight in gold, compared to my coarse tooth Craftsman.
You might want to think about it a little more. Leverage is the main reason why long ratchets are used. I replaced the entire front suspension of my Honda recently. Yeah, there are plenty of spaces, until you put a long ratchet in there. Control arms, body panels, etc. could greatly limit the swing room. Fine tooth and flex head are very helpful for avoiding obstructions.
For example, you couldn't find more access room than lug nuts. Yet, on one of my cars, if using a long fixed head ratchet, the ratchet handle will be rubbing against body panel. A few degrees of flex head is definitely needed. Factory lug nut handle is good because it's short and at an angle. Break bars are good because they have flex heads.
Replacing spark plugs of the rear bank Honda V6 engine had been a struggle for me as well. Every time, I got abrasions on my hands and arm. However, my latest attempt was much easier, thanks to Gearwrench magnetic spark plug socket, which has not only a magnet to hold the socket, but also a swivel shaft. I then used an extention and a universal adapter to bring the ratchet out of all obstructions. That just shows: sometimes a little bit wiggle can make life so much easier.
Its a very changed world now with tool companies being controlled by just a few big entities. 