Long needed change...

[Conn'swhiterose]

Well I guess it's my turn to post a thread of my new garage build. I've been working overseas for the last 7 years and during that time I have not really had the need to have a larger work/storage area for my stuff. As a result my old 14X20 was crammed as well as a 20X22 that I have been renting just down the back alley from our house, not to mention the things I have stored in my brother's garage...
So I've returned home now and decided that enough is enough. I demo'd the old garage ( surprisingly heartbreaking- many many hours spent in there) and broke ground to put up a 36X22 in hopes of regaining my sanity. That's the max size that I can put up according to city regs.
I'm an avid MOPAR and HD nut, so this is going to be home for the toys as well as a workshop. The building is a reverse gable (36 foot wall is the entrance) with 2 16'X8' doors. Construction is 2X6 walls supported by a 3 foot retaining wall in the rear and 2 foot retaining walls on each side, with 10 foot walls (another city max). I'm splitting the bays equally, one side with standard trusses and the other with scissor trusses to accommodate my new 2 post rotary lift...
So that's about it for now, I'll start posting pics of the demo and build....

Cheers everyone....have a great long weekend..

Happy Canada and Independence Day!!!

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

More demo pics....

 

[FJ 432]

Here's to many more happy memories in your dream garage

Sounds like it was long overdue.

 

[mudhog]

I bet that was fun knocking down that old garage but it's going to be even better to be under control on how the new one goes up, and how everything is going to lay out. "mopar and HD" it don't get much better then that. thats like an instant man card.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

I bet that was fun knocking down that old garage but it's going to be even better to be under control on how the new one goes up, and how everything is going to lay out. "mopar and HD" it don't get much better then that. thats like an instant man card.

Thanks mudhog.......spent lots of time in Houston, Dallas/Ft worth (work AND play)...you guys know how to live....

It was fun to take down the old one knowing what the future holds!!

Glad to hear you like Mopar and HD...here`s a couple of pics for `ya...

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Well I've finally got some time today to update this thread with some more pics.

While trying to get the dirt work and concrete in place we had about a month of rain, so we got really good at tarping! The benefit of course, was it helped with the curing process after we finally got the floor poured.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Here's some pics of the cement work....

I didn't take pics of the footings being poured..not sure why
The footings were poured first and then the retaining wall on top as a second pour...the floor and apron went in about a week later in a single pour...3/8" rebar, 16" on center.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Next was framing and sheathing, and we finally got a break in the weather so it went up quick...nice change with the slow start.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

More framing and sheathing....note that half of the trusses are standard and the other half are scissor, for the new lift!!!

 

[MyKingdom]

Good Work !

 

[Kevin54]

Garage looks good, but one question....did they pull the rebar up into the concrete or just leave it on the ground?

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Garage looks good, but one question....did they pull the rebar up into the concrete or just leave it on the ground?

Hey Kevin54...they pulled the rebar up as they poured...

 

[wfochris]

Way cool! One day I hope to do the same

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Hey Kevin54...they pulled the rebar up as they poured...

I see why you asking though, it doesn't really look like it in the pic....but my wife and I were standing over them to make sure !!

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Way cool! One day I hope to do the same

Thanks, this one has been a long time coming. I built a 28X32 about 10 years ago and one week after it's completion, I got transfered and never got to use it

This is my long awaited replacement...

You'll get yours one day too!!

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Next was the electrical rough in...

Our house was built in 1952, so it has a 100 amp service which was not nearly enough for our garage plans...so we opted to run a 100 amp service in the garage and "sub" the house off of the garage. Somewhat costly but without it the garage project was dead in the water. So we ran the new service in the garage and trenched a new feed to the house including the cable tv and telephone services (to eliminate all overhead connections to the house).

The exterior rough in consists of 8 exterior pot lights mounted in the soffitt, two GFI exterior 100 receptacles and two motion sensor security lights.

The interior consists of:
11 110V receptacles
4 220V receptacles
8 interior pot lights for the vaulted ceiling side
10 4ft flourecent light fixtures. 6 overhead for the standard ceiling side and 4 wall mounted on the vaulted side ( extra lighting while there is a vehicle on the hoist- blocking the pot lights)
1 cat5 comms connection

here's some pics to add to this.....

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

More pics..

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Last elect pics...





Have a great day everyone.....

 

[rockchucker]

VERY NICE!~ What an improvement!

You can actually see in the pics where the Mukraker is the Rebar is elevated.

 

[blkhonda1991]

More pics..

cant say ive ever seen a window header framed like that...interesting.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

cant say ive ever seen a window header framed like that...interesting.

Good eye!!!

Me either actually, just trying something different this time around. There's still 2 2x6 plates above the window, just sandwiched together instead of the second running flush with the wall studs.

The thought is for better/easier insulating above the window(s) -trying to avoid any sweating issues, as the garage will be heated.

I'm really not sure that it'll make a big difference either way??

 

[twostory]

The thought is for better/easier insulating above the window(s) -trying to avoid any sweating issues, as the garage will be heated.

I'm really not sure that it'll make a big difference either way??

I put a 1/2 inch foam board between my 2x6 headers. This provides a thermal break, and makes attaching the sheet rock easier.

Looks good so far...

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Back with more updates for you guys..

Next was shingles, soffit, facia and trim out the doors and windows. We used a product that was new to us, maybe not to you guys? "Smart board or Smart trim" which is a super solid MDF product with raised wood grain-like pattern on it. You can literally pound this stuff with a hammer and not put a dent in it. We liked the finished look of it around the windows so we carried on with it around the roll up doors...we ended up facing the door jambs with too, then put on 3 coats of paint prior to stucco. One pic attached shows some decent detail of the trim...

For your viewing pleasure....

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Soffit, facia and trim...

 

[chrommagman]

looks like it's going to be great once done

 

[NUTTSGT]

It looks great man. I bet you can't wait to occupy it.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

looks like it's going to be great once done

It looks great man. I bet you can't wait to occupy it.

Thanks guys, it's coming along, but it sometimes seems that it'll never be finished! Oh well, still plowing ahead.

You're right I can't wait to occupy it....nothing like you accomplished NUTTSGT, the makeover on your house and garage is incredible, that takes a lot of effort and determination, not to mention vision. Well done.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Next- the stucco finish. Tar paper, wire, scratch coat and finish coat. We chose a color named "mountain moss" which looked a lot like just plain old wet cement for 2 days, so we were really surprised when it darkened to the right shade over a 5 day period....first for me, usually colors get lighter? First time I've had anything to do with stucco so now I know, I guess?

Anybody ever had that happen??

Anyhoo, here's some more pics....

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

more scratch coat and finish....

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Next, we had to figure a way to insulate the retaining wall with minimal loss to square footage , so 2X2 frame and the Pink Panther it was...no to mention a few cans of spray foam to help seal any remaining gaps...take a look ...

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Then it was the R40 ceiling treatment and R20 for the walls...

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Then 2 16'X8' doors, one with a liftmaster jackshaft opener and rising rails (2/12 interior pitch) for the vaulted side and a standard 8' install with a whisper drive for the other side....

That's all for tonight guys....

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Sorry the pics are out order, but sometimes I get ahead of myself and don't have the pics I need to show the progress...and have to go back to others to illustrate....anyway I'm sure you get the idea...

 

[John in OH]

This looks like a nice job!

I was wondering if there is a specific purpose for the two levels of horizontal blocking between the 2x6 studs on the end walls on each side of the windows?

Also, in the earlier pics showing the rough wiring, there appear to be translucent covers/material around each of the outlets and switch boxes. This is unfamiliar to me ... can you provide more description and purpose?

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Thanks John in OH, but we can't take credit for the batting, that was done by our contractor(s). My wife and I framed and insulated the retaining wall.

This has been an interesting build as we have been hands on throughout the whole process with the contractors, leading the way as to our wants and expectations. We've been fortunate that none of the guys have had their nose out of joint over this, and in the end we're all happy. It's not our first time through this either so we do have a good idea how things work and don't, thus I don't think we've been unreasonable.....

Anyway....to answer your questions..

I put scrap 2X6 and 2X10 material into the walls to act help with hanging cabinets, hose and electrical reels etc, just prior to insulating...the plan is for sheet rock/gyprock so this will help down the road...some are set in a little higher than others to jog around electrical boxes..

The translucent boxes you see are to help seal out draft. You install them during rough in and later they tie in with the vapour barrier. You simply barrier over them and later cut out the barrier around the flange of the vapour barrier box and either tuck tape them or use a silicone sealant..

Hope that helps....sorry for the wall of text!!

 

[John in OH]

I put scrap 2X6 and 2X10 material into the walls to act help with hanging cabinets, hose and electrical reels etc, just prior to insulating...the plan is for sheet rock/gyprock so this will help down the road...some are set in a little higher than others to jog around electrical boxes..

That blocking for future attachments is a good idea! I'm going to steal it and incorporate it in my build which still has the studs open.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Glad to help!

 

[64dragnwagon]

Wow, that is well insulated! It even looks warm like a baby's blanket. I guess that is critical in the part of the world you are in. Nice build and thanks for sharing.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Wow, that is well insulated! It even looks warm like a baby's blanket. I guess that is critical in the part of the world you are in. Nice build and thanks for sharing.

Thanks for kind words...you're right, it is critical if one wants to work in the garage in the winter...helps with the summer heat too.

 

[Conn'swhiterose]

Next was the dreaded drywall...can you tell I don't like it

I've tried my hand at it several times and to be honest I'm not that bad at it, but for this build we hired the job out....100% of it, the only time I touched the board was to help unload the truck! We really wanted a pro job on this...after all it's the thing you see the most!!

Here's some pics....first hanging the board...