yatg
Well-known member
If your raceway is a single conduit, there's derating to consider and will most likely call for a larger wire size for each circuit.
Looking at my options for a replacement electrical panel.
- Thread starter Don1357
- Start date
I do. I'm always fiddling and changing things. Multiple QO panels at my place. It's about my box of spares fitting any panel.
More fuss and cost than any advantage. When you have a control cabinet with hundreds of small wires... different story.
dave*99
Well-known member
What voltage are they rated for? They look like DC distribution components.Follow up question; for the splice box, are these rail blocks kosher instead of the standard twist screw caps? They are rated to 10agw/30 amps, the highest amperage I'm using is 20 amps (there is one 30amp 220v circuit which should be 15 amps per leg).
If I do the hot splicing with these and the neutral using a ground bar I would think it be neater and less prone to issues.
As for splicing the neutrals on a ground bar...... How is that going to work?
Are you really considering tying all the neutrals together on a common rail? And using a ground bar that is screwed to the box to do so? Hmmm. I hope I'm reading this wrong.
Rated for 30 amp 600 volts. There is a version rated for 50 amp 600 volts.
Hey, I'm asking if it is doable. The run to the new location is about 9 feet long. Common ground is what they are right not at the original box so I'm just trying to figure out the better way to patch the ground to the new box.
dave*99
Well-known member
The only place neutral and ground should be bonded together is at the first point of disconnect. This is usually the main load center or a disconnect switch. After that neutral and ground are separate.
reader2580
Well-known member
That fancy splicing block just complicates things. If I was going to buy one of those I would make sure it is a legit brand and not some Chinese brand like HYDUUU. (An actual electrical brand I saw on an L14-50 receptacle at Amazon.) That 600 volt rating could still be DC only.
Personally, I would just use Wago Leverlock connectors in the splice box. You can get them with up to five connections. They sell a version that works up to 10 AWG, but you might have to get from Amazon. The Wago Leverlocks you find at big box stores are usually the version that is only good to 12 AWG. (Menards carries the 10 AWG version in store, but only in three position.) I am using the three position 10 AWG version for a project that only needs two position because I already had them, and I didn't want to spend $30 on Amazon for the 10 AWG two position version.
Personally, I would just use Wago Leverlock connectors in the splice box. You can get them with up to five connections. They sell a version that works up to 10 AWG, but you might have to get from Amazon. The Wago Leverlocks you find at big box stores are usually the version that is only good to 12 AWG. (Menards carries the 10 AWG version in store, but only in three position.) I am using the three position 10 AWG version for a project that only needs two position because I already had them, and I didn't want to spend $30 on Amazon for the 10 AWG two position version.
dave*99
Well-known member
How many conductors will be in the splice box? Why will you need a temperature monitor?
Have you considered using the original panel in its current location as the splice box? There are ways to do that safely.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
No, terminal blocks like that are commonly used in industrial applications and they are rated for 600 volts AC / DC. They are perfectly fine to use in a residential application. It's done all the time by electricians that know the application. Wago's are fine, but terminal blocks like those shown allow a neater job and are perfectly acceptable as long as they carry a UL listing.
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wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
that only comes in to play code wise with 4 or CCCs and in reality only after 6 does it affect ampacity since the derating for 4-6 is 80% using 90° column w/ THWN-2.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
this is overkill and not needed
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Ignoring the 30/15A mistake, which was already commented on...
I read this response by the OP to be that there would be multiple circuits in the splice box. In that case, he would need to confirm if de-rating due to a single conduit is needed, and by how much, correct?
My (poor) understanding is that the "raceway" is both short (9') and spacious enough not to require de-rating 9"x4" or so. It is basically a 1/2"~3/4" plywood boxed channel near the ceiling to cover the wires. As usual I could be wrong.
There are 19 circuits going into this panel but the 220v ones and a few others can be rewired directly from the new location, so about thirteen 110v/20 amp cables.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
welp that isnt raceway. thats just a cover. are you using NM-b? or individual conductors?
Pretty much. I call it a raceway just because it seems to be the most descriptive way to do it. I'm making it big enough so I can have cable separators and thus avoid them getting bundled, for no other reason than an overabundance of caution. And yes, good old Romex cabling.
It is going about 9 feet. I would like to use some sort of terminal block or some other form of bundled splice connector so the cables are neatly laid and labeled. I should never have to get back into the splice area again (although it will have an access panel there) but never say never and all that.
dave*99
Well-known member
If I read this correctly.....
I don't suggest making splices or using terminal blocks in a wooden channel. There are metal raceways that are approved for that. There are junction boxes etc. for that purpose.
I don't suggest making splices or using terminal blocks in a wooden channel. There are metal raceways that are approved for that. There are junction boxes etc. for that purpose.