Looking for a pneumatic 1/2" impact

[Fordguy1964]

So I have had a collection of probably half a dozen 1/2" drive impacts over the years. These are the cheap Chinese **** like you see at HF and others. They work for a while but then peter out to where they can barely remove a lug nut on a tire. I am ready to throw away the last one I bought about 3 years ago. While I don't want to break the bank I do want a pretty decent impact. I would like to keep this purchase to under $400. I want something that is not a throw away like the others I have. I would like something with the ability to be rebuilt if possible.

What do you own that you really like and feel is a good bang for the buck? I also feel it is time to replace my 3/8" air ratchet as well. The C.H. ratchet is really starting to get weak.

Suggestions please?

 

[Ign]

You might have better luck in Gen Tool

Your budget is very generous...seems you can easily afford a 2235TiMax

 

[wanderer]

So I have had a collection of probably half a dozen 1/2" drive impacts over the years. These are the cheap Chinese **** like you see at HF and others. They work for a while but then peter out to where they can barely remove a lug nut on a tire. I am ready to throw away the last one I bought about 3 years ago. While I don't want to break the bank I do want a pretty decent impact. I would like to keep this purchase to under $400. I want something that is not a throw away like the others I have. I would like something with the ability to be rebuilt if possible.

What do you own that you really like and feel is a good bang for the buck? I also feel it is time to replace my 3/8" air ratchet as well. The C.H. ratchet is really starting to get weak.

Suggestions please?

No idea what they cost now but I bought an Ingersoll rand half-inch impact wrench 20 years ago and I’m still using it now. I remember it being a few hundred bucks then.

 

[rlitman]

...Your budget is very generous...seems you can easily afford a 2235TiMax

Agreed. I paid $184.80 for my 2235QTiMAX as an Amazon Warehouse deal last April. It's the BEST full size 1/2" impact I've ever used. Looking at the camels, it looks like the new ones dip below $250 a few times a year.

If you don't want the quiet version, the Camo version is on sale for under $250 right now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085JP1PZ5/?tag=atomicindus08-20

For tight places where the IR doesn't fit, I have this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-ultra-compact-xtreme-torque-stubby-air-impact-wrench-63534.html
With an Astro Nano shallow impact set.

 

[mike93lx]

Any reason you don't want cordless? There are high torque impacts easily as powerful as the biggest 1/2 air guns, plus no hose. Same with ratchets... M12 ratchets are awesome

 

[bzinsky]

So I have had a collection of probably half a dozen 1/2" drive impacts over the years. These are the cheap Chinese **** like you see at HF and others. They work for a while but then peter out to where they can barely remove a lug nut on a tire. I am ready to throw away the last one I bought about 3 years ago. While I don't want to break the bank I do want a pretty decent impact. I would like to keep this purchase to under $400. I want something that is not a throw away like the others I have. I would like something with the ability to be rebuilt if possible.

What do you own that you really like and feel is a good bang for the buck? I also feel it is time to replace my 3/8" air ratchet as well. The C.H. ratchet is really starting to get weak.

Suggestions please?

I used so many cheap pnuematic guns. Rated from 400-600ft lbs. They were aweful. Could barely take lug nuts off.

Then I got a chicago pnuematic rated for only 325ft lbs, it was like 3x stronger.

When it comes to air impact guns, I can confidently say, never buy a cheap brand.

The torque rating on cheap brands is about as accurate as a $39.99, 5000 watt, amp at walmart.

 

[rjacobs]

$400 will buy you basically any electric on the market...

I cant imagine going back to air tools after running some of the new electric impacts.

This thing is a little over your budget with the charger and 2 batteries, but dang thats a bad *** impact.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2863-22

 

[bzinsky]

Any reason you don't want cordless? There are high torque impacts easily as powerful as the biggest 1/2 air guns, plus no hose. Same with ratchets... M12 ratchets are awesome

I cannot imagine why anybody would buy pneumatic these days, unless it’s for some specialty application.

Louder - check
Heavier - check
More powerful - nope

More than anything else, electric is so much nicer for getting in tight spaces since that damn air hose always gets in the way.

 

[mike93lx]

I cannot imagine why anybody would buy pneumatic these days, unless it’s for some specialty application.

I agree. Tripping on a hose, listening to a compressor, the noise. All good reasons to go cordless

 

[Ign]

I've got a 2131 I'd let go for shipping. Does it need a rebuild? I really don't know, it was working fine best I could tell but I came into a 2235 at the pawn shop, and I've primarily used cordless since about 2013

PM me if anyone wants a 2131 for shipping. I won't be able to ship until after 11/18

 

[tstaude]

I bought the Aircat 3/8" and 1/2" after my older Craftsman units wore out. Very powerful and can get them into a lot of tight place because I bought the stubby versions.
Usually the only instance they wont bust lugs loose is severe rust.

The electric tools are getting awfully tempting, definitely shop Black Friday.

 

[Ign]

Yeah personally I'd go 2767 and have a pneumatic stubby for the truly tight quarters with Nano sockets...or rather this is what I do so I'm biased.

Then I do keep the 2235 around just to have a "standard" pneumatic impact, but I never use it.

And my suggestions of a battery powered impact, stubby pneumatic and Nano sockets definitely climbs way over $400...but this is GJ. Buy every option. Duh.

 

[cassidy]

So I have had a collection of probably half a dozen 1/2" drive impacts over the years. These are the cheap Chinese **** like you see at HF and others. They work for a while but then peter out to where they can barely remove a lug nut on a tire. I am ready to throw away the last one I bought about 3 years ago. While I don't want to break the bank I do want a pretty decent impact. I would like to keep this purchase to under $400. I want something that is not a throw away like the others I have. I would like something with the ability to be rebuilt if possible.



What do you own that you really like and feel is a good bang for the buck? I also feel it is time to replace my 3/8" air ratchet as well. The C.H. ratchet is really starting to get weak.



Suggestions please?

I’ll pm you


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[Lotek]

$400 will buy you basically any electric on the market...

I cant imagine going back to air tools after running some of the new electric impacts.

This thing is a little over your budget with the charger and 2 batteries, but dang thats a bad *** impact.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2863-22

All my air tools are at least 20 years old, used daily professionally...Where's your electric impact going to be in even 5 years?

 

[mike93lx]

All my air tools are at least 20 years old, used daily professionally...Where's your electric impact going to be in even 5 years?

That compressor isn't free to run.

But thankfully we can all use what makes up happy

 

[rlitman]

All my air tools are at least 20 years old, used daily professionally...Where's your electric impact going to be in even 5 years?

In the recycling bin.

I cannot imagine why anybody would buy pneumatic these days, unless it’s for some specialty application.

Louder - check
Heavier - check
More powerful - nope

More than anything else, electric is so much nicer for getting in tight spaces since that damn air hose always gets in the way.

Even my "quiet" impact is much louder than electric. I'll admit that.

Heavier, no way. For comparison:
Snap On 18V MonsterLithium 1/2" drive:
tool weight = 7.3lbs
2235TiMAX:
tool weight = 4.6lbs

They're not even close. A good pneumatic is MUCH lighter.

More powerful - again, I disagree.
The Snap On above is rated at 600ft-lbs, whereas the IR is rated at 1350ft-lbs. Now perhaps the 1350 is a pie in the sky number (though IR is a reputable brand), but to say that cordless is more powerful is BS.

"nicer for getting in tight spaces". BS
That Snap On is several inches longer than the IR, and the battery is bulky as hell. I don't have issues with my hose, and if I did, I'd get a better swivel. Besides, own a compact 1/2" impact that puts these to shame (though it is admittedly annoyingly loud).

Working in the cold. Cordless *****. Batteries don't give you anywhere near full power when it's freezing out. Working in the heat? Lithium has given me all sorts of issues from overheating. And at best, lithium has a 10 year lifetime. This is worlds better than older battery technologies, but I don't have issues with air tools ever wearing out.

And then there's price. Ok, I picked some expensive tools to compare, but the SO battery setup will run you at least three times the IR pneumatic. More if you don't already have a charger.

 

[Ign]

All my air tools are at least 20 years old, used daily professionally...Where's your electric impact going to be in even 5 years?

Most likely, still in use. But for some, that's not even the point. If one feels or finds that no hose allows them to work more efficiently and thus more work is completed in a given day, then replacing every ~5 years (as an arbitrary example) is not necessarily a financial loser - not even close

It doesn't have to work for or apply to you, but it may apply to others

 

[rlitman]

Most likely, still in use. But for some, that's not even the point. If one feels or finds that no hose allows them to work more efficiently and thus more work is completed in a given day, then replacing every ~5 years (as an arbitrary example) is not necessarily a financial loser - not even close

It doesn't have to work for or apply to you, but it may apply to others

That I can totally agree with. Most of the techs I know use cordless, so it certainly makes sense for them. Even if the hose is conveniently located, it's not as convenient as not being tethered at all.

 

[bzinsky]

In the recycling bin.



Even my "quiet" impact is much louder than electric. I'll admit that.

Heavier, no way. For comparison:
Snap On 18V MonsterLithium 1/2" drive:
tool weight = 7.3lbs
2235TiMAX:
tool weight = 4.6lbs

They're not even close. A good pneumatic is MUCH lighter.

More powerful - again, I disagree.
The Snap On above is rated at 600ft-lbs, whereas the IR is rated at 1350ft-lbs. Now perhaps the 1350 is a pie in the sky number (though IR is a reputable brand), but to say that cordless is more powerful is BS.

"nicer for getting in tight spaces". BS
That Snap On is several inches longer than the IR, and the battery is bulky as hell. I don't have issues with my hose, and if I did, I'd get a better swivel. Besides, own a compact 1/2" impact that puts these to shame (though it is admittedly annoyingly loud).

Working in the cold. Cordless *****. Batteries don't give you anywhere near full power when it's freezing out. Working in the heat? Lithium has given me all sorts of issues from overheating. And at best, lithium has a 10 year lifetime. This is worlds better than older battery technologies, but I don't have issues with air tools ever wearing out.

And then there's price. Ok, I picked some expensive tools to compare, but the SO battery setup will run you at least three times the IR pneumatic. More if you don't already have a charger.

You’re forgetting the weight of the hose your lugging around with it.....you also picked one with a pretty big battery. That being said, yeah I guess the battery ones aren’t that light. Heavier, i don’t think so.

Never had an issue with cold or heat in lithium. I mean if it’s a big deal you can just, charge the batteries indoors.

Yes the power source for both products is not cheap.

I mean, hasn’t pretty much ever mechanic on earth switched to cordless?

 

[firebirdparts]

I must say, you have to lubricate them. It may be that you just run them until they need lubrication and then you buy another one.

 

[rjacobs]

More powerful - again, I disagree.
The Snap On above is rated at 600ft-lbs, whereas the IR is rated at 1350ft-lbs. Now perhaps the 1350 is a pie in the sky number (though IR is a reputable brand), but to say that cordless is more powerful is BS.

Just a question on those power ratings, more so for the air.

What kind of pressure and CFM is required to hit those numbers?

Not sure what the OP has, but most of the monster air tools(not just impacts) can require way more than the average home shop compressor can put out. My buddy brought home his 1200 ft. lb. impact from work to attempt to work on a Jeep project and the thing wouldnt budge... he forgot that at work he has 200 psi @ ~15 CFM if he needs it... at home he has 150psi but only at like 6cfm...

I think thats why I like electric as on a fresh battery you are going to get pretty close to the rated power of the gun...anywhere... you arent relying on a monster compressor to hit those numbers.

 

[rjacobs]

All my air tools are at least 20 years old, used daily professionally...Where's your electric impact going to be in even 5 years?

My Milwaukee 1/2" M18 is 5 years old(maybe only 4). Its not used professionally and I dont abuse my tools so as long as I can get batteries(I just bought 2 new ones) I suspect my gun will be functioning just fine for at least another 5 years.

 

[Ign]

I think my 2767 is quite heavy. I love the lightweight feel of a nice pneumatic gun in my hand....er until that #$_&@@ hose drives me insane.

But on my cart I typically keep the M12 stubby, M18 mid-torque and big 2767. I rarely bring out the 2767 due to weight.

Ironically, the place I enjoy the big 2767 the most is on my ball joint press, clamped in my vise, and it means no hose running across the floor to that bench. The electric is actually easier to feather the trigger on the BJ press than pneumatic, too.

They both have their place - basically I want the weight and size of a 2235 with no hose, cord or battery. Maybe a power cell like the Terminator used???

 

[rlitman]

Just a question on those power ratings, more so for the air.

What kind of pressure and CFM is required to hit those numbers?

Not sure what the OP has, but most of the monster air tools(not just impacts) can require way more than the average home shop compressor can put out. My buddy brought home his 1200 ft. lb. impact from work to attempt to work on a Jeep project and the thing wouldnt budge... he forgot that at work he has 200 psi @ ~15 CFM if he needs it... at home he has 150psi but only at like 6cfm...

I think thats why I like electric as on a fresh battery you are going to get pretty close to the rated power of the gun...anywhere... you arent relying on a monster compressor to hit those numbers.

Interesting point. IR states 90 PSI, but that's the pressure through the tool. They're also stating 24 CFM. 24 CFM is a lot of flow for many air systems. Enough that the pressure drop can be significant.

For example, using this calculator: Gates predicts that if you have a 25' 1/4" air hose (typical for a coil hose), flowing 24 CFM with 90PSI input, you will have a pressure drop of 65PSI, so you will get a mere 25PSI at the tool. That's not even accounting for pressure loss at the QDs.

Use the same coil hose with a 175PSI input, and you're only losing 36PSI due to the flow at that rate, which will give you more than the IR stated power (though it does risk damaging seals on your tool).

Based on that chart, my 30' 3/8" hose reel will lose 8.5PSI when supplied with 100PSI at that flow, so I'm right on target. I do use 1/4" hoses pretty often, and they give me plenty of power to remove lugs and run my die grinders, but yeah, it can make a big power difference if you're pushing the limits.

 

[rjacobs]

PSI is sort of irrelevant(its not really, but just for argument sake when CFM is what is needed to push the big tools, at a rated PSI) IMO as even small compressors can do 150psi(my small rolair Bull can do 125psi, but its only capable of 4cm, and I think thats only at 80psi)... 24CFM is a MONSTER compressor unless there are some newer designs that are more efficient... Looks like you need to get into a 2 stage, 7.5hp, 230v1ph to hit that 24cfm number...but how long can you keep that up for? a few hits?

I dont think you are getting that from most home compressors you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes.

 

[rlitman]

PSI is sort of irrelevant(its not really, but just for argument sake when CFM is what is needed to push the big tools, at a rated PSI) IMO as even small compressors can do 150psi(my small rolair Bull can do 125psi, but its only capable of 4cm, and I think thats only at 80psi)... 24CFM is a MONSTER compressor unless there are some newer designs that are more efficient... Looks like you need to get into a 2 stage, 7.5hp, 230v1ph to hit that 24cfm number...but how long can you keep that up for? a few hits?

I dont think you are getting that from most home compressors you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes.

Well, my 2-stage 7.5HP compressor does around 25CFM (which is about the upper limit of what you can do on single phase), but that's not all that relevant, because I don't recall the last time I was actually using an impact wrench for more than a few consecutive seconds.

I have a 6 gallon portable compressor that I used with a 1/2" impact to change a pair of water heater anode rods at my in-laws (a job I repeat every 6 years to so). It made quick work of the task, without any hint of losing pressure.

When I put the loft into my garage, I drove dozens of lag bolts with an impact and my 30 gallon (at the time) compressor. If I waited for it to finish cycling between bolts, it worked well enough.

I have the big compressor for tools that do actually run continuously. Die grinders and sanders sure, but an impact, nah.

To my post above, my point was that PSI at the compressor is kind of irrelevant. It's PSI at the tool that matters.

 

[yellowbox]

I bought the Aircat 3/8" and 1/2" after my older Craftsman units wore out. Very powerful and can get them into a lot of tight place because I bought the stubby versions.
Usually the only instance they wont bust lugs loose is severe rust.

The electric tools are getting awfully tempting, definitely shop Black Friday.

Aircat warranty blows

 

[Fordguy1964]

Just a question on those power ratings, more so for the air.

What kind of pressure and CFM is required to hit those numbers?

Not sure what the OP has, but most of the monster air tools(not just impacts) can require way more than the average home shop compressor can put out. My buddy brought home his 1200 ft. lb. impact from work to attempt to work on a Jeep project and the thing wouldnt budge... he forgot that at work he has 200 psi @ ~15 CFM if he needs it... at home he has 150psi but only at like 6cfm...

I think thats why I like electric as on a fresh battery you are going to get pretty close to the rated power of the gun...anywhere... you arent relying on a monster compressor to hit those numbers.

I have 175 PSI@13CFM. Plenty of air for the job. I can run a sand blaster without even letting up to recharge... but I do because my blast cabinet is next to the compressor and I don't want to stand there listening to that for very long.

 

[rjacobs]

I have 175 PSI@13CFM. Plenty of air for the job.

Im not saying YOU cant run an impact off of your compressor... My point when quoting the other poster was him saying a certain air impact can hammer 1350 lb. ft... That might be, but only when fed enough PSI at a certain CFM...which requires a fairly monster compressor that not a ton of people own.

So lets take the impact he stated that can only do that power output at 24cfm of air flow... Your compressor puts out what? 45% less... So that impact can "theoretically" only do like what 700-750 ft. lbs.? Not that that is anything to sneeze at, but just part of the conversation...

I hate seeing people buy stuff that can do xxxx or yyyy but they dont have they ability to drive it there and then are disappointed/pissed off when "this ************* rated at 1350ft. lbs. couldnt turn this lug nut off...

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I’ve had good luck with Aircat and Ingersoll Rand. But still my favorite is the Earthquake from Harbor Freight everyone at my shop has one they love them and use them more than anything else. They are much better than the cheap ones they have. They haven’t been around long but they are very good I recommend you try one of those.


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[cassidy]

I sent you a pm on something you might be interested in


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[Super Mech]

In the recycling bin.



Even my "quiet" impact is much louder than electric. I'll admit that.

Heavier, no way. For comparison:
Snap On 18V MonsterLithium 1/2" drive:
tool weight = 7.3lbs
2235TiMAX:
tool weight = 4.6lbs


They're not even close. A good pneumatic is MUCH lighter.

More powerful - again, I disagree.
The Snap On above is rated at 600ft-lbs, whereas the IR is rated at 1350ft-lbs. Now perhaps the 1350 is a pie in the sky number (though IR is a reputable brand), but to say that cordless is more powerful is BS.

"nicer for getting in tight spaces". BS
That Snap On is several inches longer than the IR, and the battery is bulky as hell. I don't have issues with my hose, and if I did, I'd get a better swivel. Besides, own a compact 1/2" impact that puts these to shame (though it is admittedly annoyingly loud).

Working in the cold. Cordless *****. Batteries don't give you anywhere near full power when it's freezing out. Working in the heat? Lithium has given me all sorts of issues from overheating. And at best, lithium has a 10 year lifetime. This is worlds better than older battery technologies, but I don't have issues with air tools ever wearing out.

And then there's price. Ok, I picked some expensive tools to compare, but the SO battery setup will run you at least three times the IR pneumatic. More if you don't already have a charger.

Agreeing here. Cordless impacts are way more bulky than pneumatic tools.
Especially ratchets. Cordless guns may be stronger than they ever were but that strength is for a short time with a fully charged battery. With a proper sized compressor I can lean on a pneumatic all day.
Sometimes the hose is a hassle but swivel connectors help a lot.
If your work requires you to be out in the field with no air then by all means go cordless, but in the shop air rules for me.

 

[Wrench97]

IR 231c will do all you need it to for around $110

 

[bzinsky]

Im not saying YOU cant run an impact off of your compressor... My point when quoting the other poster was him saying a certain air impact can hammer 1350 lb. ft... That might be, but only when fed enough PSI at a certain CFM...which requires a fairly monster compressor that not a ton of people own.

So lets take the impact he stated that can only do that power output at 24cfm of air flow... Your compressor puts out what? 45% less... So that impact can "theoretically" only do like what 700-750 ft. lbs.? Not that that is anything to sneeze at, but just part of the conversation...

I hate seeing people buy stuff that can do xxxx or yyyy but they dont have they ability to drive it there and then are disappointed/pissed off when "this ************* rated at 1350ft. lbs. couldnt turn this lug nut off...

That’s not how how the ratings work, the guy who was talking about the monster impact :shakes head:

There is no impact gun on planet earth that requires a 25cfm @ 100+ psi to operate. Every impact gun can run on a $99 pancake compressor. You possibly might have to wait a little bit to charge, and thats a big maybe.

That rating is likely only if you you are flat out holding the trigger down the entire time. Nobody does that.

Infact, I bet the 25 cfm rating is more about hose/fitting sizes than compressor size.

 

[bzinsky]

Agreeing here. Cordless impacts are way more bulky than pneumatic tools.
Especially ratchets. Cordless guns may be stronger than they ever were but that strength is for a short time with a fully charged battery. With a proper sized compressor I can lean on a pneumatic all day.
Sometimes the hose is a hassle but swivel connectors help a lot.
If your work requires you to be out in the field with no air then by all means go cordless, but in the shop air rules for me.

Haven’t most mechanics switched to cordless?

I’m not in the field, I’m trying to judge whether there are actual benefits to air or you guys are just a bunch of old timers that can’t adapt to new things.

 

[Wrench97]

Cost is a big factor, the shop provides air, you on the other hand have to buy the batteries and chargers when they fail.
I have both but find using the m12 1/4" and 3/8" mostly especially inside a vehicle and air everywhere else.

 

[epmills]

IR 2235ti for air

That said, I have used the Milwaukee cordless on bolts that the 2235 couldn't bust loose. It got them, those things are no joke.

 

[Super Mech]

Haven’t most mechanics switched to cordless?

I’m not in the field, I’m trying to judge whether there are actual benefits to air or you guys are just a bunch of old timers that can’t adapt to new things.

You might call me an “old timer” I’m 54 and have been working on cars since I was a little kid with my dad and uncles. 20+ years owning my own repair shop.
I see guys going cordless but I also see the same guys using hand tools in cramped engine bays and undercarriage spaces because they don’t have a slimmer, lighter air tool to get in some tight spot. Lots of cordless being used in bodywork around here where most jobs have room. For me I only see them being advantageous in remote locations. People like them but to me they are too bulky and heavy.

 

[Ign]

Cost is a big factor, the shop provides air, you on the other hand have to buy the batteries and chargers when they fail.
I have both but find using the m12 1/4" and 3/8" mostly especially inside a vehicle and air everywhere else.

It cuts both ways if YOU have to provide the air. What's the cost of a decent (which I would define as 60gal, say 13cfm minimum at 90psi) compressor, hoses, fittings etc?

And I personally will only have the compressor in a shed outside so add cost of some form of shed and requisite piping into main shop (here on GJ we all know PVC is the best of course), then 10ga wiring to compressor, dedicated breaker etc.

And a couple hose reels because I'm not just hand-coiling 30 to 50' each night.

Let's be clear: that's just ME. Some are ok with a 110V 30gal rattling away right next to them, and that's ok. It's just not a situation I will accept. Nor is working for someone else apparently - I'm one of the people that's basically "unemployable" because I need to be self-employed. Doesn't mean I'm smart or dumb, a good person or a bad person - it's just who I am

 

[Ign]

You might call me an “old timer” I’m 54 and have been working on cars since I was a little kid with my dad and uncles. 20+ years owning my own repair shop.
I see guys going cordless but I also see the same guys using hand tools in cramped engine bays and undercarriage spaces because they don’t have a slimmer, lighter air tool to get in some tight spot. Lots of cordless being used in bodywork around here where most jobs have room. For me I only see them being advantageous in remote locations. People like them but to me they are too bulky and heavy.

Honestly, they are getting better but likely won't come THAT close to air in our lifetimes. The Milwaukee 2763 to 2767 was an example. There are now new M18 mid-torque stubbies which are certainly smaller than the original 2860/1. And the M12 stubbies are pretty damn good for what they are (but they're no air impact)

The gains will be incremental but steady. Someday... maybe

If you'd told the first IBM guys how much computing power would be in the smartphone I'm holding right now, would they even have believed it? Or that a V6 Ecoboost could put out 1970's big block power?