Looking for a really tough drill
- Thread starter ive
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MIlwaukee Hole hawg or right angle drill
Farmall450
Well-known member
Check out DeWalt and Milwaukee's premium offerings. I would get a dedicated mixer (significant gear reduction) for the former, and an SDS+ for the latter.
Coach James
Well-known member
What material do you want to drill large holes in?
Coach
Coach
Gummi Bear
Well-known member
Another vote for Hole Hawg
It’s been a Jobsite staple for decades performing the exact tasks you’re asking about.
Milwaukee 1675-6 Hole Hawg 7.5 Amp 1/2" Joist & Stud Drill (Case Not Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T16M/?tag=atomicindus08-20
If you’re wanting to drill through concrete, then a SDS drill is the ticket. Hilti, Bosch, Milwaukee and DeWalt all make good ones. If you get one, pay attention, there’s a couple of SDS standard sizes for bits, make sure you bring home the right one to avoid too much cussing
I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...
Henry David Thoreau
It’s been a Jobsite staple for decades performing the exact tasks you’re asking about.
Milwaukee 1675-6 Hole Hawg 7.5 Amp 1/2" Joist & Stud Drill (Case Not Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T16M/?tag=atomicindus08-20
If you’re wanting to drill through concrete, then a SDS drill is the ticket. Hilti, Bosch, Milwaukee and DeWalt all make good ones. If you get one, pay attention, there’s a couple of SDS standard sizes for bits, make sure you bring home the right one to avoid too much cussing
I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...
Henry David Thoreau
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Budget?
blazemaster83
Well-known member
Black and Decker 644. I found one on craigslist in very good condition for $75
Marctrees
Well-known member
Owning a number of diff Milwaukee corded drills... A Holehawg is needed for more than a couple holes like this... ESPECIALLY in wet treated wood.
Make sure you use a sufficient gauge ext cord w good tight plugs. #12 minimum even if only 50 ft... you need ALL the volts you can get at the drill motor, not reduced by drop in the cord.
Re the cutting bit - If you are doing 3/4 x 18" holes I would use a 6 - 8" single spur auger bit on a smaller diameter extension w frequent withdraws for chip clearing.
These bits are very self feeding... meaning need very little pushing, but need to be reversed to disengage the feed screw to allow withdraw for chip cleaning... the drill will be turning clockwise while you are withdrawing.
You will develop a feel, but be prepared for more work to clean out chips than to do actual drilling.
Shallower holes clean much easier.
Your drill motor will get hotter due to frequent swapping from forward to reverse... maybe up to like 6 times per 18" deep hole cause ya gotta clean chips out frequently...like every 3" or so... If you drill in all 18" w no cleaning of chips your bit and extension may be in the timber forever.
That setup will drag way less in wet wood than any full length ship auger bit.
THIS style bit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YO6U/?tag=atomicindus08-20
*** NOT this style - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NR150W/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Marc
My favorite style - https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/power-drill-i-100-auger-bits
Make sure you use a sufficient gauge ext cord w good tight plugs. #12 minimum even if only 50 ft... you need ALL the volts you can get at the drill motor, not reduced by drop in the cord.
Re the cutting bit - If you are doing 3/4 x 18" holes I would use a 6 - 8" single spur auger bit on a smaller diameter extension w frequent withdraws for chip clearing.
These bits are very self feeding... meaning need very little pushing, but need to be reversed to disengage the feed screw to allow withdraw for chip cleaning... the drill will be turning clockwise while you are withdrawing.
You will develop a feel, but be prepared for more work to clean out chips than to do actual drilling.
Shallower holes clean much easier.
Your drill motor will get hotter due to frequent swapping from forward to reverse... maybe up to like 6 times per 18" deep hole cause ya gotta clean chips out frequently...like every 3" or so... If you drill in all 18" w no cleaning of chips your bit and extension may be in the timber forever.
That setup will drag way less in wet wood than any full length ship auger bit.
THIS style bit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YO6U/?tag=atomicindus08-20
*** NOT this style - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NR150W/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Marc
My favorite style - https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/power-drill-i-100-auger-bits
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Marctrees
Well-known member
Because you are drilling a hole not much larger then the extension head...If your extension has a 90 degree top end shoulder on the coupler end, grind chamfer to like 45 degree ... that will decrease effort needed at chip withdrawal.
Note the major chamfer in photo below-
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JAW8KO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This one is not chamfered -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002438JO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Marc
Note the major chamfer in photo below-
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JAW8KO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This one is not chamfered -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002438JO/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Marc
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Marctrees
Well-known member
If it's a hot sunny day keep the drill in shade w a strong fan blowing on it between holes.
Marc
Marc
Marctrees
Well-known member
How many 18" deep holes ?
Marc
Marc
RTM
Well-known member
Dang, never thought of that one. Good point (or chamfer)
Packard V8
Well-known member
What's ironic is the best machines for this work are the old aluminum housing Black & Decker, Sioux, Thor, Skil, et al geared head 1/2" or 3/4" drill motors which get passed over at garage sales, even when priced for dirt-cheap.
Years back, helping build a floating dock from timbers, my seventy-five-year-old-B&D with the side-extension handle would outwork the new HoleHawg.
jack vines
Years back, helping build a floating dock from timbers, my seventy-five-year-old-B&D with the side-extension handle would outwork the new HoleHawg.
jack vines
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Hi guys. Thanks for the tips, esp Mactress.
I’m drilling a maybe 3 dozen holes.
I will follow the advice of everyone on here. Much appreciated.
One more thing.
Makita ds4000 or milwaukee hole hawg? The Makita draws 9amps vsthe hole hawgs 7.5
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Drilling/Right-Angle-Drills/1675-6#sp-specs
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/DS4000
I’m drilling a maybe 3 dozen holes.
I will follow the advice of everyone on here. Much appreciated.
One more thing.
Makita ds4000 or milwaukee hole hawg? The Makita draws 9amps vsthe hole hawgs 7.5
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Drilling/Right-Angle-Drills/1675-6#sp-specs
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/DS4000
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
consider this HF. Mine has mixed a lot of thinset and drywall mud without a hint of an issue. Hard to beat for the money.
https://www.harborfreight.com/power...2-in-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-63112.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/power...2-in-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-63112.html
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Have the Black & Decker Commercial right angle drill. It is unbelievably heavy duty. Right angle configuration better resists the torque.
bob15
Well-known member
I vote for the old B&D geared drill or the newer offerings from Metabo:
https://www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/drilling-screwdriving-chiselling-stirring/drills/bev-1300-2-600574420-drill.html
or
https://www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/drilling-screwdriving-chiselling-stirring/drills/bde-1100-600806390-drill.html
I have the 1100 and really like it. It has multiple gears for different drilling speeds without needing to constantly feathering the trigger. You can also replace the front snout and make it 90°.
https://www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/drilling-screwdriving-chiselling-stirring/drills/bev-1300-2-600574420-drill.html
or
https://www.metabo.com/com/en/tools/drilling-screwdriving-chiselling-stirring/drills/bde-1100-600806390-drill.html
I have the 1100 and really like it. It has multiple gears for different drilling speeds without needing to constantly feathering the trigger. You can also replace the front snout and make it 90°.
Marctrees
Well-known member
You will love the 2 speed HoleHawg.
Marc
Marc
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sparky 1971
Well-known member
I have been in construction for 26 years and don't recall ever seeing a Makita corded drill on a jobsite whether resi or commercial. I have a Miilwaukee hole shooter that looks similar to the Makita and wouldn't attempt to run a bit through three 6X's. Milwaukee makes two Hole Hawgs. A 900 rpm single speed and a 300/1200 two speed. I have the two speed and wouldn't hesitate to drill the holes, but it's gonna take low gear and a really sharp bit to get all the way through. I have doubts about the 900 rpm drill getting the task accomplished. Also, low gear will throw a lot less concrete around when mixing.
TSelanne
Member
It's interesting to see the B&D recommendations.... I haven't had much success with their stuff, but I don't own the old stuff, only from the last few years.
edit: I'd suggest Milwaukee or Dewalt
edit: I'd suggest Milwaukee or Dewalt
sparky 1971
Well-known member
I have an ancient B&D pistol grip drill and can attest to the power. I haven't used that wrist breaker for at least 15 years
sparky 1971
Well-known member
Another benefit to the Hole Hawg is the design. It's a lot easier to hold on and "fight back" when the bit binds up. The traditional in line styles can get a man hurt.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
I have the cordless super hawg but I know that isn't what you mean. It's been quite awhile, but one of the tool shops loaned us a super to try out. I didn't like it. It's too long and too heavy for what I do. I only used it for about five minutes and switched it out. I am sure it has plenty of power, probably more than the regular Hawg.
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
For your stated needs, Hole Hawg. All. Day. Long.
Marctrees
Well-known member
In my experience I have seen many hole hawgs out in the field, can't recall any Supers.
Don't have any clue why.
7.5 A vs 13A is quite an upgrade.
Marc
Don't have any clue why.
7.5 A vs 13A is quite an upgrade.
Marc
Wamsutta
Well-known member
That Hole Hawg comes in a straight configuration too. The RPM is 650.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Id grab my battery impact with 7/16 adaptor and ship auger (like Milwaukee impact auger bits, but i dont think they do 3/4...would have to go 13/16) any day over a hole hawg for this application. Ask any lineman what they’d use.
Of course, this doesnt help with your need of a multipupose drill. But it’ll get you to lunch before the other guy.
Ohhh, and be careful with a hole hawg. It can put ya in a bad way quick. BTDT.
What kind of concrete you planning on mixing with a drill? Probably be better off (and faster) doing that by hand for small amounts. If no wheelbarrow and hoe, place a tarp or plastic on the ground, dump a 80lb bag, add water, have a helper grab the other two corners, alternate lifting corners to roll the mud, works amazing and fast.
Just my .02
sparky 1971
Well-known member
That Hole Hawg comes in a straight configuration too. The RPM is 650.
That's the Hole Shooter. I have one but I believe it's 900 rpm. I wouldn't dream of using it to drill a hole through three treated 6X's. The 650 rpm version will definitely have more power, but I doubt it's enough.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Marctrees
Well-known member
As on yellow label - known as "Timber Wolf" model
Marc
Marc
sparky 1971
Well-known member
It appears that Black and Decker no longer make a tool worth buying. I think to get a new version of that drill, one would have to gt a Dewalt joist and stud drill. Basically a yellow super hawg. Of course, ebay, cl, and fb marketplace are options as well for used.
Ohhh, and be careful with a hole hawg. It can put ya in a bad way quick. BTDT.
/QUOTE]
My legs have bad memories of spinning a 5 gallon bucket of mortar with one
RTM
Well-known member
A friend of mine told a story in the 80s of watching a Hole Hawg lift an apprentice off the ground, and break a rib in the process. Bit caught a knot.
WittHay
Well-known member
Not sure if the OP is drilling through 3 2x6 boards or 3 6x6 posts. I would take a Makita any day over a Milwaukee. Never had good luck with the made in USA Milwaukee drills, never mind the newer assembled from global materials TTI versions.
The newer Makita drills are made (assembled) in the USA. and have a top speed of 600 rpm. The 4011 has a rocker switch like the older made in Canada Makita's which had a top speed of 550 rpm. Those could drill through treated posts and telephone poles with no problems. The rocker switch is handy for reversing.
The 4012 has a variable speed from O to 600 rpm and no rocker switch. I have one mainly for drilling in steel using bits up to 3/4"
The newer Makita drills are made (assembled) in the USA. and have a top speed of 600 rpm. The 4011 has a rocker switch like the older made in Canada Makita's which had a top speed of 550 rpm. Those could drill through treated posts and telephone poles with no problems. The rocker switch is handy for reversing.
The 4012 has a variable speed from O to 600 rpm and no rocker switch. I have one mainly for drilling in steel using bits up to 3/4"
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ClappedOutBport
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I guess you never heard about when they started shoving their good tools off to DeWalt and other brands and cheaped B&D out to hell and forever ruined their image.
Old B&D stuff was the best you could buy. Dad has a grinder from the 40s, it's still used all the time.
Oh and FWIW, the 1/2" and 5/8" drills everyone is recommending here (and I concur) where actually on the lower end of B&D's line up. I have the #361 drill on page 5 here. It runs at 400 RPM and is 4.5 amps and it will hurt you. And yet, it was only a standard duty drill, nothing compared to the big boys they sold. They had damn Timken tapered roller bearings in the bigger drills! They were, and are, amazingly good at what they do. The 1 1/4" looks like a 3 man operation. Two to take the torque and steady it, and one guy leaning all his weight on it.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/101/20564.pdf
strutaeng
Well-known member
Concrete wheelbarrow mixer! LOL seriously, you won't be mixing concrete with a drill for long. Maybe just a bucket here or there.
I'm installing 2,000 sq. ft. of tile right now and I'm using my older USA-made hole hawg for thinset and grout. I also have a vintage 1/2 all cast aluminum drill that I've used, probably bought for $25. Just look for triple gear reduction and metal housing...
I'm installing 2,000 sq. ft. of tile right now and I'm using my older USA-made hole hawg for thinset and grout. I also have a vintage 1/2 all cast aluminum drill that I've used, probably bought for $25. Just look for triple gear reduction and metal housing...