Looking for advice turning this into an auto-centric workshop.

[RotaryLove]

Hello everybody! Its been five or six years since I posted on here last. The wife and I closed on our first property together recently, and I'm looking to setup our shop for building project cars. We're beyond grateful for being able to afford this caliber of property so close to town at such a young age! I'm coming from a 28x32x10 garage shared with household belongings, moving into our new to us dedicated shop. Can you all help with some tips for getting this building looking and functioning much better for working on cars and trucks?

While this shop is fairly low on her list of priorities it'll be where I spend most of my free time. For a little bit of back story it was used to house all sorts of property maintenance and gardening related tools and equipment for the 3 acre plot. The building is quite large for my needs, with a small bump out off the back which houses a water heater I presume is for radiant heat in floor heat circuits. It appears to be stick-framed, tin sided, insulated with fiberglass insulation, walls finished with painted OSB, ceiling finished with white tin, and has two sub panels inside. The main panel is poorly installed, missing covers, and not well trimmed. There are many bare/unsheathed wires stapled to the walls/ceiling. A couple spots of water damage evident throughout the building. a relatively small broken window that has been completely covered from the inside, and a dividing wall which doesn't suit our needs.

My main concerns are the water damage spots, and verifying the electrical is safe for now. Maybe finding a way to pretty up the OSB and hide the seams better. That said, I would like to remove the dividing wall and add in a doorway/steps to access the attached shed from the inside. I couldn't get the pilot lit for the water heater, which I'd like to verify works ASAP as fall is coming and we're on the outskirts of St Paul. If it indeed does have functioning radiant heat I need to see if I can get a FLIR camera in there, it would be lovely to get a 2-post installed down the road.
















This image below shows the attached shed off the back with the water heater inside. I need to remedy the cause of the water damage, and I'd like to replace the opening near the floor with a proper door.



This image is to the left upon walking into the only service door to the building. Between the concrete slab and the walls is an exposed perimeter of what appears to be 2" pink foam insulation. Any ideas on how to finish this?


Thanks everyone!

 

[ZRX61]

Looks like they left some cool stuff. Liking that chest thing with the gray drawers. That would be getting some attention.
& what's piled on the roof of the smaller room?
The smaller shelves in the main area don't look very practical, I'd probably tear those out... & the 4 odd looking doodads under the shelf hanging from the ceiling.
What's the building look like from the outside?

 

[BillK]

Nice looking shop. How big is it ?

 

[FMB4]

I'd first start by correcting the wiring issues. Also make sure that all of the wiring is to code.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I need to check out the pictures on the PC.

I would cut the pink insulation down a slight bit and fill the gap with Sika flex concrete fix

 

[bradpac]

Looks like a pretty nice space. Get your outside leaks and issues taken care of first, so you don't have them messing things up on the inside. Tearing out that dividing room should be too big of issue since it was built inside the main structure, not part of it. I'm a fan of clean electric installation, so if it's all tacked on the outside of the walls and poor installation I would be inclined to gut it and redo everything in the walls or conduit and with a logical layout for your use. The rest is just a little paint and trim. Good luck with the project.

 

[firebirdparts]

Nice! Good advice already given. Enjoy. You will need a spot for your air compressor, hopefully where you won't heard it as much, and then get you a reel or two mounted.

I have a set of stairs like that. They are awesome.

 

[Metallitubby]

That definitely a good start for what you are wanting to do. A little fine-tuning and personalization with work wonders in a place like that.

 

[wolfhawk73]

Edit: Whoops.

 

[wolfhawk73]

That's a great space. Good luck!

Off topic a bit...does anyone know where that paint scheme originated? (light gray/red stripe/dark gray) It was used in a manufacturing facility where I work, and the paint job was probably 30 years old. I see it EVERYWHERE.

 

[FMB4]

...does anyone know where that paint scheme originated? (light gray/red stripe/dark gray).

Worked in a machine shop that had white upper and medium gray lower walls in '81/2. I've always liked that C scheme.

 

[Benw455]

Congrats on the nice shop space.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

It looks like you have a space with great potential. Number one priority is the water leak - improperly flashed roof vent? I would not be too hasty to tear down the dividing wall, as I have learned from practical experience that it is a big advantage to have an area closed off from the dust from wood working or grinding while working on cars. Looks like a great place for air compressor, parts storage and seldom used tools storage, not to mention the beer fridge.

 

[nadogail]

I am sure that your Snap On man will be glad to suggest ways to spend your money.

 

[RotaryLove]

Looks like they left some cool stuff. Liking that chest thing with the gray drawers. That would be getting some attention.
& what's piled on the roof of the smaller room?
The smaller shelves in the main area don't look very practical, I'd probably tear those out... & the 4 odd looking doodads under the shelf hanging from the ceiling.
What's the building look like from the outside?

When the time is right I'll definitely see if it is in good condition. There is an all steel small parts organizer they left behind as well which I intend to keep for sure. I agree, Certainly promotes clutter! On top of the room is mostly just OLD wood. There is also some dismantled furniture up there as well. Apparently most of it was there when the seller purchased this place in the early 90s... I would assume it's older than I am! I did find a rodents nest up there tonight, so getting that taken care of is crucial for me. The odd things hanging from the ceiling are cut off threaded rod.

This is probably the best exterior photo I have at the moment. Nothing fancy! Tin definitely needs to be replaced, and I don't think there is any exterior sheathing underneath it either. Unfortunately I'm going to have to start hustling on side projects ($$$) If I want to get that taken care of.

Nice looking shop. How big is it ?

Listing had said 36x36, also has the attached shed off the back which I have not had a chance to measure yet.

I'd first start by correcting the wiring issues. Also make sure that all of the wiring is to code.

Yes absolutely, I need to get an electrician out here to take a look at this. Part of me wants him to condemn it, so we can have conduit ran along the walls. I feel like that is a much more modular, easy to work with system for workshop spaces. There are not many outlets available and the 220v outlets are in bad spots for my needs.

I need to check out the pictures on the PC.
I would cut the pink insulation down a slight bit and fill the gap with Sika flex concrete fix

I will look into this, Thank you!

Looks like a pretty nice space. Get your outside leaks and issues taken care of first, so you don't have them messing things up on the inside. Tearing out that dividing room should be too big of issue since it was built inside the main structure, not part of it. I'm a fan of clean electric installation, so if it's all tacked on the outside of the walls and poor installation I would be inclined to gut it and redo everything in the walls or conduit and with a logical layout for your use. The rest is just a little paint and trim. Good luck with the project.

Absolutely, just not sure where to start. Whether that is taking interior OSB down or getting up on the roof. I totally agree with the conduit. I'd like to have an electrician out here to inspect the sub panels, and assure they're up to code as well. Still looking for options trimming the foam insulation along the slab.

Nice! Good advice already given. Enjoy. You will need a spot for your air compressor, hopefully where you won't heard it as much, and then get you a reel or two mounted.

I have a set of stairs like that. They are awesome.

I am irrationally stoked for the stair! Assuming I can get it nicely finished, I'd like the attached shed to be accessible from the main building, Keep the water heater, 80gal compressor, blast cabinet, and lawn equipment in there until we can build a garden shed.

It looks like you have a space with great potential. Number one priority is the water leak - improperly flashed roof vent? I would not be too hasty to tear down the dividing wall, as I have learned from practical experience that it is a big advantage to have an area closed off from the dust from wood working or grinding while working on cars. Looks like a great place for air compressor, parts storage and seldom used tools storage, not to mention the beer fridge.

The two noticeable leaks I have found seem to be the same general area- Near the exhaust vent for the water heater. During the inspection process our inspector said It could be due to ice dams forming on the roof during winter. That is a heavily shaded area of the building, it is also north facing.

My wife feels the same regarding the partition wall, Which I agree with to an extent. My last workspace was 28x32, I felt as if there was too much floor space, and not enough wall space for all my junk. Ideally I'd like to get two working projects in this building, as well as one if not two vehicles stored for the winter in there. I'll have to measure out the current floorplan and compare it with some others on here. Immediately to the right of the large door I'd like to possibly set that mazda there on its wheel dollies, But the wall is in the way.

-1983 Mazda RX-7, receiving an LM4, AR-5 Trans, 8.8 axle, and maybe some chinese boost if I feel like it.
-2003 350z. Mostly just maintenance and repair. This is my drift car.
-2005 Silverado 2500HD CCSB - just got a paint job.

 

[RotaryLove]

I am sure that your Snap On man will be glad to suggest ways to spend your money.

Just paid the sucker off before we closed too! Dangit.

 

[ZRX61]

Compressor could go next to the water heater.

Maybe shorten the side room to 20ft, that gives you 16ft in that corner for the Mazda. Or shorten it by however much you need to get the car in there length-ways with room to walk around it.

& look at every piece of "old wood" before you throw it out.. that's how I ended up with about $5k in teak for free.

 

[RotaryLove]

Compressor could go next to the water heater.

That is indeed the goal! I've got a C'aire 80gal 220v compressor I'd like to put back there. Copper pipe would be ideal, however for one I haven't learned how to sweat yet, and for two I'm sure its cost prohibitive right now. I am considering buying a RapidAir kit in 3/4".

 

[ZRX61]

That is indeed the goal! I've got a C'aire 80gal 220v compressor I'd like to put back there. Copper pipe would be ideal, however for one I haven't learned how to sweat yet, and for two I'm sure its cost prohibitive right now. I am considering buying a RapidAir kit in 3/4".

Sweating pipe is one of those things where you screw up a few tries & then suddenly you're doing it like a pro (plenty of YT videos). Often easier to join several parts at the bench instead of having the sweat multiple pieces from a ladder etc. My step dad flipped houses when I was in school & he had me sweating copper by the time I was 12... altho "you'll be glad you know how to do this when you get your own place" was pretty lost on a 12yo at the time.
Plus you can ****** it up & just sweat it apart again for the next attempt without creating a pile of scrap.

 

[Robe9000]

Hello everybody! Its been five or six years since I posted on here last. The wife and I closed on our first property together recently, and I'm looking to setup our shop for building project cars. We're beyond grateful for being able to afford this caliber of property so close to town at such a young age! I'm coming from a 28x32x10 garage shared with household belongings, moving into our new to us dedicated shop. Can you all help with some tips for getting this building looking and functioning much better for working on cars and trucks?

While this shop is fairly low on her list of priorities it'll be where I spend most of my free time. For a little bit of back story it was used to house all sorts of property maintenance and gardening related tools and equipment for the 3 acre plot. The building is quite large for my needs, with a small bump out off the back which houses a water heater I presume is for radiant heat in floor heat circuits. It appears to be stick-framed, tin sided, insulated with fiberglass insulation, walls finished with painted OSB, ceiling finished with white tin, and has two sub panels inside. The main panel is poorly installed, missing covers, and not well trimmed. There are many bare/unsheathed wires stapled to the walls/ceiling. A couple spots of water damage evident throughout the building. a relatively small broken window that has been completely covered from the inside, and a dividing wall which doesn't suit our needs.

My main concerns are the water damage spots, and verifying the electrical is safe for now. Maybe finding a way to pretty up the OSB and hide the seams better. That said, I would like to remove the dividing wall and add in a doorway/steps to access the attached shed from the inside. I couldn't get the pilot lit for the water heater, which I'd like to verify works ASAP as fall is coming and we're on the outskirts of St Paul. If it indeed does have functioning radiant heat I need to see if I can get a FLIR camera in there, it would be lovely to get a 2-post installed down the road.
















This image below shows the attached shed off the back with the water heater inside. I need to remedy the cause of the water damage, and I'd like to replace the opening near the floor with a proper door.



This image is to the left upon walking into the only service door to the building. Between the concrete slab and the walls is an exposed perimeter of what appears to be 2" pink foam insulation. Any ideas on how to finish this?


Thanks everyone!

That space looks awesome should be perfect for working on project cars. I just have a regular two car garage but one of the best things I ever did was put multiple four panel electrical outlets in the ceiling. One thing this allowed me to do is simply hang fluorescent tube lights wherever I wanted and then also allowed for overhead electrical outlets for pretty much wherever I wanted them. Is a great way to keep cords and things out-of-the-way especially with things like power tools and work lights. As long as you’re going in and fixing some wiring issues while you’re up there you might as well wash some of those up as you go. Congrats on the new space looks awesome.

 

[wake74]

Assuming the square opening in the shed opens to outside, verses the garage, it may have been installed to be a combustion air vent for the shed (if the shed is pretty air tight). I may be way off though. If it's there to be a fresh air vent, I'd go screened louver or something rather than a sealed door.

 

[ZRX61]

That space looks awesome should be perfect for working on project cars. I just have a regular two car garage but one of the best things I ever did was put multiple four panel electrical outlets in the ceiling. One thing this allowed me to do is simply hang fluorescent tube lights wherever I wanted and then also allowed for overhead electrical outlets for pretty much wherever I wanted them. Is a great way to keep cords and things out-of-the-way especially with things like power tools and work lights. As long as you’re going in and fixing some wiring issues while you’re up there you might as well wash some of those up as you go. Congrats on the new space looks awesome.

In the 20x30ft part of my old garage I put two quad outlets in the ceiling. middle of the space, one 10ft from each end. Then I mounted a power strip near each one, plugged into one of the outlets on the quads, then connected the tube lights to the power strips.

 

[RotaryLove]

Assuming the square opening in the shed opens to outside, verses the garage, it may have been installed to be a combustion air vent for the shed (if the shed is pretty air tight). I may be way off though. If it's there to be a fresh air vent, I'd go screened louver or something rather than a sealed door.

I have a bit of a theory behind that as well, and I think you're on to something. In the separate room area of the building there is a decent sized pulley driven blower fan. I'm thinking they at one point they had used the strategy you outlined above, or had a forced air style heating system in there.

In the 20x30ft part of my old garage I put two quad outlets in the ceiling. middle of the space, one 10ft from each end. Then I mounted a power strip near each one, plugged into one of the outlets on the quads, then connected the tube lights to the power strips.

I think this is a great idea, I am considering doing the same. I need to calculate out how much light (# fixtures) is necessary for our goals.

Update from today:
Main shop space is about 24.5W x 35ish' D, Which means the enclosed room is roughly 10 feet wide. I suspect the ceiling is around 8 foot. 24.5x35 may be too tight for three cars, which is why I am leaning towards removing the spare room or perhaps partially removing it.
I'll be mostly working on sports cars and my Crew Cab 3/4 ton chevy.

Got the hot water heater for the shop running. It feels as if the fluid pump is running since the pump has a slight vibration in addition to being warm to the touch, though I cant confirm if it is pumping or not. I suspect the temperature of the building was controlled by the water temp setting of the heater itself. There is a separate dial thermostat in the building, though it is not connected to anything.

Living next to farm fields is new to me. My uncle made a great point that we should be taking the next six weeks or so pretty seriously in terms of getting this building sealed from the outside and addressing the water intrusion before the rodents move in and the snow starts piling on the roof.

In terms of addressing the water damage, I'll have to remove some of the sheathing and pray the damage isn't critical.

 

[banjopete]

Depending on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go... before you start moving your things in it's worth a consideration of doing it once and doing it right as it'll never have less junk in it, fewer things to move/cover/worry about.

If you're a diy guy at all you can save yourself a ton of money if you're willing to put in the labour and grab a few buddies to help with some parts. With the water heater vent issues, and the electrical issues and given your winter climate all these things to me sound like something where I'd consider opening the whole place up to peek in the walls, and ceiling. Jump on me if you want but hear me out. You can fix what appears to be poor electrical work, you could properly fix your water damage and roof leak, you can add all the air/electrical connections and outlets you'd ever need in the walls, and you could potentially improve on the unknown insulation quality.

Hiring all that out will add up fast and yes if that's all drywall that means all new sheathing but do it once and you're set for a long long time with a really tremendous workspace.

Personally I'm a fan of wooden walls vs drywall in a garage, and in our cold climates a minimum quality level of insulation will pay itself off in the long term. Good luck with the decision making, it looks like a really fantastic space to be starting with, whichever way you go.

 

[RotaryLove]

"...I would not be too hasty to tear down the dividing wall, as I have learned from practical experience that it is a big advantage to have an area closed off from the dust from wood working or grinding while working on cars..."

Oh wow, these words are proving wise quite quickly. Wifey started prepping our kitchen cabinets doors and drawers for a fresh coat of paint tonight, This separate space with vent fan is already proving quite handy. At this point I need to get some project cars in and see how much floor space we really need. If I can justify keeping it, I will. If I need the extra floor space maybe we'll take down 1/3 of it or so. I wanted to dedicate the back shed for this and install a door to it, but my priority is on the house first. I also am doubting that back room is large enough.

Depending on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go... before you start moving your things in it's worth a consideration of doing it once and doing it right as it'll never have less junk in it, fewer things to move/cover/worry about.

If you're a diy guy at all you can save yourself a ton of money if you're willing to put in the labour and grab a few buddies to help with some parts. With the water heater vent issues, and the electrical issues and given your winter climate all these things to me sound like something where I'd consider opening the whole place up to peek in the walls, and ceiling. Jump on me if you want but hear me out. You can fix what appears to be poor electrical work, you could properly fix your water damage and roof leak, you can add all the air/electrical connections and outlets you'd ever need in the walls, and you could potentially improve on the unknown insulation quality.

Hiring all that out will add up fast and yes if that's all drywall that means all new sheathing but do it once and you're set for a long long time with a really tremendous workspace.

Personally I'm a fan of wooden walls vs drywall in a garage, and in our cold climates a minimum quality level of insulation will pay itself off in the long term. Good luck with the decision making, it looks like a really fantastic space to be starting with, whichever way you go.

Gosh I wish I had the ability to do that, It's getting cold here and I'd like to keep the cars away from the rodents if possible. Autumn is officially here, and we're set to be fully moved in this weekend.

I am a DIYer in training, mostly because I make a modest living! Only 24 years old and being my first home I have a lot to learn. I certainly agree with you though. Hopefully before the snow flies we can take down at minimum a few essential panels to check things out. As for the OSB walls I have two concerns. One, the fit and finish is poor in this building. A fresh coat of paint will go a long way, but without completely re-doing the electrical system with conduit sitting above the OSB (how I'd prefer to do it) I don't think I can improve upon it. Stevie Wonder could've installed the fixtures better. My second concern fire hazard. I've got two extinguishers in there currently, but welding will be taking place. I'd also like to get a CNC plasma table.

 

[ZRX61]

That side room:
What's the distance from the rear of the building to 1ft past the doors to the room?
What's the distance from the front of the building to 1ft past the doors to the room?

 

[ZRX61]

I am a DIYer in training, mostly because I make a modest living....

Buy this:

How to be Handy [hairy bottom not required]: Build Money Saving DIY Skills, Create a Unique Home and Properly Look After Your Stuff: Anderson, Ian: 9788293249054: Amazon.com: Books

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www.amazon.com

Somewhat aimed at newbs, but a wealth of info for anyone & the writing style is pretty funny. Almost worth having just for the humor.

 

[RotaryLove]

That side room:
What's the distance from the rear of the building to 1ft past the doors to the room?
What's the distance from the front of the building to 1ft past the doors to the room?

I’ll have to give that book you recommended a look once we get more settled in!
As for the room, here are a couple of photos. Measuring tape was not long enough to pass the door the long way.

 

[ZRX61]

The doors are closer to one end than I thought. I'd think about removing maybe 16-18ft of wall (including the doors) measured from the front of the shop. Then take that entire door frame & part of the wall, turn it 90deg & put it on the front end of the *new* shorter room. Obviously you'd have to remove the ceiling structure from the part of the room you intend to remove before tearing the wall & doors out.

Probably reverse the entire door/wall piece so the doors open into the room instead of outwards.

 

[RotaryLove]

The doors are closer to one end than I thought. I'd think about removing maybe 16-18ft of wall (including the doors) measured from the front of the shop. Then take that entire door frame & part of the wall, turn it 90deg & put it on the front end of the *new* shorter room. Obviously you'd have to remove the ceiling structure from the part of the room you intend to remove before tearing the wall & doors out.

Probably reverse the entire door/wall piece so the doors open into the room instead of outwards.

Doing this and then adding a doorway into the rear shed would be fantastic. I just need to make sure the ceiling heights work before trying to cut a hole for a new door. Should be moving my shop over here this weekend, we'll see what it starts to look like!

 

[ZRX61]

Assuming the bottom plate of the wall is bolted to the slab, you could cut the bolts under the plate with an oscillating tool doodad. You can also salvage the studs etc from the part of the wall you don't use to finish the part with the doors you repurpose. Might only need to buy a pack of Red Heads to attach the part of the bottom plate each side of the doors to the slab.

 

[ZRX61]

I’ll have to give that book you recommended a look once we get more settled in!
As for the room, here are a couple of photos. Measuring tape was not long enough to pass the door the long way.

I'm now 152 pages into the book (just got to the chapter about tools). While some is aimed at newbs, a lot of it is valuable to everyone. Buy it now & put it next to the throne in the *reading room* (yes, I've spent 152 pages on the crapper since I bought the book). I think it's one of those "everyone needs this book".

 

[RotaryLove]

I have yet to remember to purchase it, been so busy trying to get our house moved in and some minor updates done.

There is what I believe is a box elder tree about 30 feet from the shop, so trying to keep a good grasp on the massive amount of box elder bugs has been a nightmare.

As for shop updates, not much has gone on. Got many of my tools/project cars over. Had to replace a dead exterior light fixture, nothing crazy. Local electricians are booked out pretty far so it’ll be a while before I can have someone out to take a look at the place. I have a feeling I’ll need to upgrade the service. It’s got a 50a sub panel and my air compressor alone has a 22amp motor on it.

Otherwise last night I began throwing some wood down off of the roof of the room preparing to hopefully have a fire this weekend.

 

[RotaryLove]

Man, 8 1/2 hours of burning things this weekend and still not done removing all the old lumber up above the partition room. Probably 2/3 of the way there.

found a couple of mouse houses and lots of rodent feces, had to make the decision to spray it down with a dilution of bleach water to hopefully sterilize everything. Still not done moving things in, needed to free up some storage space up there as I’m running out of floor space.
Can’t wait to get this half *** organized.




The farmer style build quality of this building is starting to show, I really want to get an access hole cut for the attic to inspect for more rodent/water damage, and get a better idea of the roof structure. Maybe I’ll be able to get all these threaded rods out of the ceiling as well.

 

[wolfhawk73]

Worked in a machine shop that had white upper and medium gray lower walls in '81/2. I've always liked that C scheme.

One of our production areas-turned-warehouse space had it around the entire 150,000 sq. ft. building. It was painted around the same timeframe. I see it all over the internet in shops, home garages, etc.

 

[ericm]

A battery powered vacuum cleaner is useful for vacuuming up rodent **** and other gunk in the attic where there's no power. I have a DeWalt one that gets used for that and a lot more but I'm sure there's a lot of good ones if you're using a different battery setup.

 

[ZRX61]

One of our production areas-turned-warehouse space had it around the entire 150,000 sq. ft. building. It was painted around the same timeframe. I see it all over the internet in shops, home garages, etc.

RAF Transport Command aircraft too.

 

[banjopete]

Safety steve says mask up for that mouse poop patrol. I had a high school teacher that died cleaning out an attic from mouse poop, it's stuck with me ever since when I see the *******'s leftovers.

 

[RotaryLove]

Safety steve says mask up for that mouse poop patrol. I had a high school teacher that died cleaning out an attic from mouse poop, it's stuck with me ever since when I see the *******'s leftovers.

Absolutely, I got fairly ill for a few days a handful of years ago parting out an old RX7 from all the mouse turds. N95 mask and some bleach is now mandatory haha

A battery powered vacuum cleaner is useful for vacuuming up rodent **** and other gunk in the attic where there's no power. I have a DeWalt one that gets used for that and a lot more but I'm sure there's a lot of good ones if you're using a different battery setup.

Absolutely, Milwaukee makes an 18v one I’ll likely use since I’m already invested in their M12/M18 tools. Also a good call because I can keep the wife’s shop vac free from all this nastiness.

 

[ZRX61]

Safety steve says mask up for that mouse poop patrol. I had a high school teacher that died cleaning out an attic from mouse poop, it's stuck with me ever since when I see the *******'s leftovers.

Guy that worked in the tool crib (welding & autobody) at the local college got really sick from pigeon poop, was in hospital for several weeks & ended up having to retire from it. Guy was built like the ******* love child Herman Munster & Mr Universe. Still see him around town once in a while.