Lucid Moments
Well-known member
Weird. I find it on Amazon, but not Tekton's website. Home Depot lists it but doesn't have it in stock. May out of manufacture and the listing on Amazon is old stock someone still has.
Looking for an inexpensive tap set
- Thread starter branimal
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dutchgray
Well-known member
I know a guy who told me he had an employee that they wouldn't let tap anything less than M30 because of the breakage rate.
I bought the majority of my taps from an out of business machine shop, bought everything they had, which was everything except pipe thread taps as those had already sold, it was about 90% good, plenty new unused, some fairly worn stuff, mostly very good HSS stuff.
I paid around £150 for all, around 100lb of taps and dies, will never use it all.
Before then I just bought individuals as needed, good quality HSS hand or spiral machine taps and the necessary tap drill size, then you always have a good drill on hand and if you keep them organised you don't even need to look up the tapping drill size.
rsanter
Well-known member
Are,you really cutting threads or are you chasing threads?
For chasing threads I would use the 20-30$$$ ones, as well as using them on softer materials to cut threads. You could then buy a couple good taps here and there as you need then for steel.
If you are really using them to cut threads then get a good tap set, and remember that if you use them a bunch you will need to replace them once in a while
For chasing threads I would use the 20-30$$$ ones, as well as using them on softer materials to cut threads. You could then buy a couple good taps here and there as you need then for steel.
If you are really using them to cut threads then get a good tap set, and remember that if you use them a bunch you will need to replace them once in a while
ChevyEFI
Well-known member
I spent $35? on an SAE / Metric HF set with 60 or so pieces, round dies, and am glad I did. It's been useful, the thread pitch gauges specifically.
In addition, I have a second hand blow mold case for hex dies and taps, so it consists of extras, duplicates, hardware store Hansen buys, an extra tap wrench and die wrench.
Then I have the one-off larger dies and taps which didn't warrant a set. Plus the Lisle square drive to tap drive sockets.
Buy smart, buy what you need, and don't regret a starting point that's cheap. Don't go hog wild into a blind hole with a cheap tap, learn to lube, tap and back up, and get your use out of what you have.
In addition, I have a second hand blow mold case for hex dies and taps, so it consists of extras, duplicates, hardware store Hansen buys, an extra tap wrench and die wrench.
Then I have the one-off larger dies and taps which didn't warrant a set. Plus the Lisle square drive to tap drive sockets.
Buy smart, buy what you need, and don't regret a starting point that's cheap. Don't go hog wild into a blind hole with a cheap tap, learn to lube, tap and back up, and get your use out of what you have.
We run Champion sets. I love buying good taps too, GTD, Greenfield and have plenty in the shop along with loose drill bits but like on the road in the service truck it's real nice to have sets you can just toss the whole thing back in the box.
Everyone should have a rethread kit too, Lang/Craftsman/CTA/Jawco/truck. Use that all the time.
Everyone should have a rethread kit too, Lang/Craftsman/CTA/Jawco/truck. Use that all the time.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I bought a ~2" diameter plastic tube full of small taps about five years ago at a garage sale for $5.
Probably 30-40 taps, good assortment of sizes from 2-56 to 10-32. A year later at another garage sale I found a large parmesan cheese shaker full of taps from 1/4-20 to 1/2-13; again probably 30-40 taps. Think I might have paid $10 for the lot.
Best part is these were all sharp, no chipped or dinged edges, HSS older USA stock- Union Butterfield, Cleveland, Morse, Bendix, Hanson, Whitney. Most NC, a few were NF. Some were even unused in the original tubes. Filled out my little Huot tap cabinet pretty quick.
I don't go to garage sales much anyomore, but I have found that stuff like taps, dies, drill bits, etc are usually viewed as secondary/filler stuff by the sellers- especially if it's an estate sale. I head for that stuff while everyone else is ogling the power tools, exercise equipment, mowers, etc. Bought a new 5-gallon Homer bucket about a quarter full of drill bits, 90% old USA at a church garage sale for $15 once-they charged me an extra $5 for the bucket since they had purchased them just for the sale. Quart Ziplock bag full of USA step drill bits (Klein, Unibit and Lenox)for $1 at a estate sale for a retired electrician... Most people are drawn to the bigger, flashier items and stuff like this just gets packaged in bulk and blown out.
Good luck with your search.
Probably 30-40 taps, good assortment of sizes from 2-56 to 10-32. A year later at another garage sale I found a large parmesan cheese shaker full of taps from 1/4-20 to 1/2-13; again probably 30-40 taps. Think I might have paid $10 for the lot.
Best part is these were all sharp, no chipped or dinged edges, HSS older USA stock- Union Butterfield, Cleveland, Morse, Bendix, Hanson, Whitney. Most NC, a few were NF. Some were even unused in the original tubes. Filled out my little Huot tap cabinet pretty quick.
I don't go to garage sales much anyomore, but I have found that stuff like taps, dies, drill bits, etc are usually viewed as secondary/filler stuff by the sellers- especially if it's an estate sale. I head for that stuff while everyone else is ogling the power tools, exercise equipment, mowers, etc. Bought a new 5-gallon Homer bucket about a quarter full of drill bits, 90% old USA at a church garage sale for $15 once-they charged me an extra $5 for the bucket since they had purchased them just for the sale. Quart Ziplock bag full of USA step drill bits (Klein, Unibit and Lenox)for $1 at a estate sale for a retired electrician... Most people are drawn to the bigger, flashier items and stuff like this just gets packaged in bulk and blown out.
Good luck with your search.
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I like the idea of buying a set. When you need it you need it now. Who has time to back burner a project and wait for an order to come in or run to a supplier for one tap when you're in the middle of a job.
That said I'm with PugetDude on buying at garage sales etc. I have 3 or 4 drawers full of taps, many new, mostly hss that I bough super cheap but in the last few years I've bought the snap-on sae and mac metric kits in like new condition for $100 and $50 each because I just didn't have every size when needed. These are Hanson rebranded. They are not hss but they are really descent quality for the money and a BIG step above cheap chinese sets (ask me how I know). Try to find older made in USA sets or HSS (bona fide tool steel).
That said I'm with PugetDude on buying at garage sales etc. I have 3 or 4 drawers full of taps, many new, mostly hss that I bough super cheap but in the last few years I've bought the snap-on sae and mac metric kits in like new condition for $100 and $50 each because I just didn't have every size when needed. These are Hanson rebranded. They are not hss but they are really descent quality for the money and a BIG step above cheap chinese sets (ask me how I know). Try to find older made in USA sets or HSS (bona fide tool steel).
Craig Bernhardt
Member
Lang makes a nice rethreader kit
I've got a Mastercraft set I've used for 25 years. I doubt it's any better than the Harbour Freight one you're contemplating.
I completely understand the sentiment others have expressed about cheap taps causing headaches when they break. My Mastercraft taps are brittle and I've broken some over the years. I now have two Mastercraft sets - I bought the second because it was cheaper than replacing my broken taps in the first.
My point isn't to dismiss what most people are saying, but to suggest you can get work done with cheap taps too. You need to make sure the hole is sized right, not tap too far before you back up to break the chips, clean out the hole more often, etc. Just be gentle.
In my case, I've also added higher-quality taps for the sizes I use most (m4-m8), as a specific project arose - or just when I spy a deal.
BUT - it does **** when you break a tap in a hole. Those brittle taps are brittle because they're hard - good luck drilling.
I completely understand the sentiment others have expressed about cheap taps causing headaches when they break. My Mastercraft taps are brittle and I've broken some over the years. I now have two Mastercraft sets - I bought the second because it was cheaper than replacing my broken taps in the first.
My point isn't to dismiss what most people are saying, but to suggest you can get work done with cheap taps too. You need to make sure the hole is sized right, not tap too far before you back up to break the chips, clean out the hole more often, etc. Just be gentle.
In my case, I've also added higher-quality taps for the sizes I use most (m4-m8), as a specific project arose - or just when I spy a deal.
BUT - it does **** when you break a tap in a hole. Those brittle taps are brittle because they're hard - good luck drilling.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
ASTRO is the answer. Available in both metric and SAE. The metric is available with both taps and dies and the SAE only taps and tap drills. https://www.astrotools.com/product/automotive-tap-die-set-metric/
www.astrotools.com
There biggest advantage is that they're made from high speed steel and not the cheaper carbon steel. Much better quality than average.
Automotive Drill & Tap Set - SAE | Astro Pneumatic Tools
No nonsense set covers 90%+ of SAE automotive fasteners 1/2" and under, with taps that can be driven by included ratchet that quickly switches from for ...
www.astrotools.com
There biggest advantage is that they're made from high speed steel and not the cheaper carbon steel. Much better quality than average.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I recently had to tap a 10-1.5 metric thread in a piece of 1/2” 516-70 plate. All I had in mm was an old HF set. I was sweating bullets the whole time, went really slow; lots of Tap Magic. I could see the tap flexing every time I changed direction. Was finally able to unclench my **** cheeks when the tap broke through the plate and spun freely.
A lot of great advise here. One thing mentioned above that got my attention is the required tap drill bits. My drill bits are the standard Home depot Milwaukee red box impact ready bits. Been working great on my drill press for drilling metal. These sets don't have the required size drill bit for the taps I'm currently in need of:
10-24 NC requires a #25 drill bit. The closest I have is a 5/32
7/16-20 NF requires a 25/64 bit. The closest I have is a 3/8 bit.
Will my bits work for tapping the threads I need or am I better off buying the tap and drill bit combo in the sizes I need.
Thanks.
BTW, I have 2 tap wrenches from working on steam radiator plugs - one less thing to buy
10-24 NC requires a #25 drill bit. The closest I have is a 5/32
7/16-20 NF requires a 25/64 bit. The closest I have is a 3/8 bit.
Will my bits work for tapping the threads I need or am I better off buying the tap and drill bit combo in the sizes I need.
Thanks.
BTW, I have 2 tap wrenches from working on steam radiator plugs - one less thing to buy
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I have 2 sets of HF taps/dies, one set in a thin tin box and the other the yellow/nitrated set.
The taps in both sets cut way OVERSIZE for me, and that has led to stripped threads in aluminum...not good.
I have since bought Irwin tap/drill sets at sLowes, with drills I don't need, and found them slow going and needing to be backed-off a lot.
We always used 2 flute/spiral point gun taps (Glenfield?) at work and have bought that type of tap from MSC when I had time to wait on shipping.
They also sell gun taps on amazon now, so 2-day shipping.
Like this:
10-24:
7/16-20:
And auto parts stores have most standard taps.
jmo,
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So yeh, "required" drills represent a 75% thread, so go on the smaller side of drill size that you have or buy the tap and drill sets.
I have fraction/number/letter drill sets, so I buy just taps.
That and common drill bits tend to cut big, especially when used in a hand drill.
.
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You kind of need to feel it to tell if you're pushing a tap too hard - it depends what material you're tapping. E.g. you can be quite a bit too small on the hole and still tap into plastic, mild steel is less forgiving. It also depends if you're tapping through something 1/8" thick or 1/2" thick.
Even for mild steel, you don't need to be exactly right - but if you're not, you better be more gentle still. I've broken a few taps getting it wrong - but it's not a regular occurrence (I mean, I've had the set for 25 years and there's still enough of the original taps left for it to be useful).
I don't have a drill index or special bits for each tap - so I consider myself proof it can be done.
Bubba Fett
Well-known member
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to practice one some different materials before doing the actual project. Might help get a better feel, and if the tape is junk and breaks, then it broke in something that's not critical.
McMaster has some sets you might look at (scroll down a little).
McMaster Taps
Also note that you need different taps for through holes than for blind holes.
McMaster Taps
Also note that you need different taps for through holes than for blind holes.
david3921
Well-known member
To answer your question, IMO, just buy the two sets you need. That way you know you are starting with both new and sharp bits and taps.
That's what I ended up doing. I got a hansen 10-24 and 3/8-16 tap. I drilled out a 1/2 square metal rod and tapped them for practice. Going forward and backwards and reoiling frequently. I even pulled the tap out to wipe off the metal chips in the flutes. The 10-24 tap felt like it was going to snap, but never did. The 3/8-16 tap went thru like a champ.
My application will only require 1/4 depth tapping, so I think I should be fine.
Thanks for the help guys.
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Looks good
Just a suggestion
Chamfer the hole before tapping, the tap will start easier, and if done after tapping it could mess up the threads.
jmo
How do you measure how deep the chamfer should be?Looks good
Just a suggestion
Chamfer the hole before tapping, the tap will start easier, and if done after tapping it could mess up the threads.
jmo
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Be careful about cheap tap sets. A buddy and I were working h a project that require a 1/4-20 tapped hole in 1/2" 6061 aluminum plate. The tap broke !
X1 Mike
Well-known member
You don't.
Just eyeball it, looks good it is good. You just want a nice lead in for the threads.
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
I hear this often repeated, "You get what you pay for." This may be true, but, I doubt this is always true. I think is may be possible to pay serious money for junk. My best advice is to buy where the professionals buy. A good tool may be more expensive, but it may last longer and do a better job.
The best taps I have ever spent money on are https://ymwtapsusa.com/
My best advice to anyone is to try the known to be the best then look after the tool.
The best taps I have ever spent money on are https://ymwtapsusa.com/
My best advice to anyone is to try the known to be the best then look after the tool.
For tapping I prefer the tap-drill index type , sold by viking or Norsemen and probably others. Typically the sae set would include ,6-32 up to 1/2-13 or 1/2-20 depending on if it's a NC or NF set. They also have the metric set with taps and drills as well. The viking or Norsemen sets are hss spiral point taps which cut very well in damn near any material.
I see value in good taps and dies. I have some in select sizes. However, I would prefer to have a wide-range of cheap taps and dies in a set than just a handful of good ones.
My rationale is that it really ***** when you need to make a trip to the store in the middle of a project in hopes they happen to have the right size in stock. With caution, even cheap taps will get the job done.
Better still to just get a big set of high quality taps and dies, but that gets pricey.
My rationale is that it really ***** when you need to make a trip to the store in the middle of a project in hopes they happen to have the right size in stock. With caution, even cheap taps will get the job done.
Better still to just get a big set of high quality taps and dies, but that gets pricey.
i have not chimed in on one of these threads for a while so here goes.
for some reason people think tap and die sets are some magical mystery and they are somehow different than any other tool and that other rules apply. it is rare to hear someone recommend that one go out and buy one wrench, one socket or one drill bit to start assembling a set of tools. you sometimes hear someone recommend that one should buy one premium branded/priced premium wrench or socket but that is a different story.
that is exactly what you hear about taps and dies though. buy only the size you need, buy the best available, end of story. people rant about other tool sets skipping sizes but buy singles of taps and dies. i think that is not a real good answer.
when asked, i tell people to buy sets and here is why.
1. buy a set to be prepared. if you only have a few sizes, it is only a matter of time until you don't have the size you need or something needs to be drilled and tapped to a larger size.
2. buy a set for storage. taps should be stored in an organized clean, dry and protected manner. a set will allow them to be stored as such, when organized in a set it is easier to find the correct size, inventory when missing and store them in a clean protected storage device which you will get with a set. tap and die sets are not meant to be stored in a baby food or peanut butter jar.
3. buy a set that fits your needs. if every tool you own is made in india and bought at the dollar store you may be able to get by with a 15 dollar tap and die set. if every tool you own is made in usa and of a premium brand then you probably won't be happy with anything less than premium taps and dies.
i have sets of irwin, vermont american and ace and honestly they do me just fine. i never know exactly what i need until i need it so i need sets. other than large pipe sizes i don't think i have not had a size when needed. i have some sizes i have not used or rarely used but i still want them to be prepared. something you won't have buying onesy twosies. if you want to replace lost or broken bits with better stuff, i advise to do it but for occasional use a relatively complete set will be the best value and fit for most people.
use them with a bit of caution and care and they will serve you well. run your tap gorilla fisted and crooked down a dry hole and your experience may vary. of course that can be said about a lot of things..........
for some reason people think tap and die sets are some magical mystery and they are somehow different than any other tool and that other rules apply. it is rare to hear someone recommend that one go out and buy one wrench, one socket or one drill bit to start assembling a set of tools. you sometimes hear someone recommend that one should buy one premium branded/priced premium wrench or socket but that is a different story.
that is exactly what you hear about taps and dies though. buy only the size you need, buy the best available, end of story. people rant about other tool sets skipping sizes but buy singles of taps and dies. i think that is not a real good answer.
when asked, i tell people to buy sets and here is why.
1. buy a set to be prepared. if you only have a few sizes, it is only a matter of time until you don't have the size you need or something needs to be drilled and tapped to a larger size.
2. buy a set for storage. taps should be stored in an organized clean, dry and protected manner. a set will allow them to be stored as such, when organized in a set it is easier to find the correct size, inventory when missing and store them in a clean protected storage device which you will get with a set. tap and die sets are not meant to be stored in a baby food or peanut butter jar.
3. buy a set that fits your needs. if every tool you own is made in india and bought at the dollar store you may be able to get by with a 15 dollar tap and die set. if every tool you own is made in usa and of a premium brand then you probably won't be happy with anything less than premium taps and dies.
i have sets of irwin, vermont american and ace and honestly they do me just fine. i never know exactly what i need until i need it so i need sets. other than large pipe sizes i don't think i have not had a size when needed. i have some sizes i have not used or rarely used but i still want them to be prepared. something you won't have buying onesy twosies. if you want to replace lost or broken bits with better stuff, i advise to do it but for occasional use a relatively complete set will be the best value and fit for most people.
use them with a bit of caution and care and they will serve you well. run your tap gorilla fisted and crooked down a dry hole and your experience may vary. of course that can be said about a lot of things..........
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LeonardY
Well-known member
Besides taps. I recommend getting a tapping block or making one.
I've got this.
There are others too.
I've got this.
There are others too.
jayemm
Well-known member
Your words mirror my my thoughts. After knackering threads in the softest aluminum on earth that Ford used on an intake manifold which left me dead in the water trying to install a egr valve or pulling the threads in an aluminum alternator housing, it was time for a set. Enough of the "onesy-twosey- do I have the right size" ********. Bought a 60 piece carbon steel SAE&metric tap and die set. It's made in Japan and it's comparable to Hanson and it's "good enough" and most important it's there when needed. With all of the tool aficionados on this board who buy some pretty pricey tools,I hear the "buy once,cry once" mentioned. That's what I did. It cost me $112 at the local hardware store and I never looked back.
As you mentioned, caution is required. As a DIYer, to me, beyond tap quality, technique and lots of lube will see you through most times. It's nice that a tap announces it's limits by twisting a little without breaking. I've broke a few that didn't. Just my .02.
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Good question.
It's kind of a visual thing, and it's the width/not the depth that's important.
It will look way too big before you tap the hole and about right after you tap it.
For a visual measurement you could just put a bolt over the hole/into the chamfer and the chamfer should be visual out/beyond the threads of the bolt.
If the plate you are drilling/chamfer/tapping is thin/thinner than a like sized nut, go lite on the chamfer as you are weakening the thread if you go deep.
Sorry to be so vague but that chamfer has always been a visual thing for me but I'm sure there are some industry standards for it if you care to search for it.
jmo,
Edit: You don't need a chamfer tool to cut one, a bigger than bolt size drill will work fine.
Just be aware that drill could be pulled into the hole and open it up too big for tapping!
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Renegade1LI
Well-known member
I mentioned to get a good set early on this thread, as a contractor and do it your selfer I know it’s just a matter of time till you need the ones you don’t have. I dedicated a5 drawer cabinet to taps, dies, easy outs, helicols, bolt and screws extractors, you just never know what you’re going to need and it’s either late at night or out of stock, i like to be prepared. I like to start with a set and add on from there.
Attachments
jayemm
Well-known member
That's impressive. You certainly have your bases covered.