LP Smartside

[OIIIIIIIO]

Hi,

Design opinions needed...

I'm putting up a garage next to a house built in 1876...we are trying to have the exterior match as much as possible without breaking the bank. From the road, the garage will actually look more like a house/cottage...it is going in the same location where the summer kitchen once was...

We were planning on going with cedar siding...smooth finish...as that's what's on the house.

Cedar siding is expensive...

A salesman suggested LP Smartside...suggested the rough cut cedar look style...he said he thought at one point LP had a bit of trouble getting paint to stick and hold to the product with a smooth finish...

I'm leary of the rough cut look next to the smooth side house...

Has anyone heard, had experience in general with LP Smartside? From what I can tell, in general it's been a pretty quality product with numerous good reviews...

How about comments/experience the smooth finish in particular?

Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Patrick

 

[MrMark]

I sided my garage with smooth finish smartside. I felt it was the best available siding product. It is OSB covered with an impregnated heavy paper. It is not cheap (more than Hardy though) but it is not overly expensive, either. It is available in very long 16 foot boards to minimize joints. As far as quality is concerned, there are minor issues, as there are with any manufactured product. The finish is for the most part very good, but there is the occassional gouge or depression.

Remember, I am talking smooth here, the stuff that shows defects. Also, the product moves slightly dimensionally in thickness from board to board. They didn't spend the money on a tighter spec because they couldn't charge more. In other words, they had a price point to meet.

I personally don't like the rough "cedar" look. No wood looks like that so it just appears fake to me.

Again, I like working with the product, it installs well, and it is VERY strong. It will add strenght to the building when installed with 8d ringshanks into the studs. I have found nothing better. I never entertained the thought of the dreaded Hardy Products.

edit: as to paint: It sticks well and does not absorb much paint. I have been able to paint it out beautifully with a brush and speed.

 

[OIIIIIIIO]

The guy at the lumber yard...when shooting from the hip...guessed it might be half as expensive as "real" cedar siding...any truth to that? He'll be getting a quote to me in the next week or so so we'll see...

How long ago did you paint the smooth surface siding? Sounded like no problem with application...and I'd imagine you would have said something if there were issues with the paint peeling after a period of time...

Thanks for the info and any more you, or anyone else has!

 

[Sharps]

What MrMark said...

I have used it on three different builds, all turned out well. The secret is to prime the back of the product as it is not primed (this is done in Canada to prevent the back from sweating against the housewrap). Paint turned out well on the outside of them all, smooth and rough finish product, plus they have more trim options.

Here is a pic. Lots more in my garage build thread. HTH

My Garage Build: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49785

 

[MrMark]

The guy at the lumber yard...when shooting from the hip...guessed it might be half as expensive as "real" cedar siding...any truth to that? He'll be getting a quote to me in the next week or so so we'll see...

How long ago did you paint the smooth surface siding? Sounded like no problem with application...and I'd imagine you would have said something if there were issues with the paint peeling after a period of time...

Thanks for the info and any more you, or anyone else has!

I have about a year on the paint and no issues yet. Cost? I don't really remember how much the 16 footers were. I know the alternative real cedar is through the roof. I was able to special mine at Home Depot. Lowes carries it as a special order House brand. I tried the lumber yard but they were more money and tried to add unnecessary to me charges. I also was able to pick through and reject boards at the Home Depot. I think it is necessary to cull bad boards, especially these days and especially with a smooth siding product.

 

[MrMark]

What MrMark said...

I have used it on three different builds, all turned out well. The secret is to prime the back of the product as it is not primed (this is done in Canada to prevent the back from sweating against the housewrap). Paint turned out well on the outside of them all, smooth and rough finish product, plus they have more trim options.

Here is a pic. Lots more in my garage build thread. HTH

My Garage Build: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49785

WoW! You primed the backside? That is impressive for sure. It must have been a #^#% to do that? I make sure I prime all cuts but the backside? That must have taken some paint. The hardest part of the siding job is having to continuously paint edges during the installation. I did a rainscreen wall so I wasn't worried about the backside. Overkill for my area, but I just wanted to do it.

 

[Sharps]

The cost in my area was cheaper than Hardie Plank. I bought it at the lumber yard, got 3 quotes went with the best price and they will take back defective pieces. I have one project that has been painted for 18 months and it looks as good as the day the paint dried. FWIW

 

[MrMark]

You need to tape those neutrals White.

Is that red pipe PE pipe for gas?

edit: I see the green stipe on the Poco aluminum now.

 

[Sharps]

WoW! You primed the backside? That is impressive for sure. It must have been a #^#% to do that? I make sure I prime all cuts but the backside? That must have taken some paint. The hardest part of the siding job is having to continuously paint edges during the installation. I did a rainscreen wall so I wasn't worried about the backside. Overkill for my area, but I just wanted to do it.

Yeah, I am a little particular about construction techniques and maintenance. Actually it was really easy. Lay it out face down on three saw horses because of the 16 foot length, nail a 2X4 across the top of the saw horses to accommodate at least 48 inches of the material spaced 1 inch apart and roll on the KILZ exterior latex primer. Goes crazy fast if you do this before you even think about cutting it down. Then you just touch up the ends and edges if you cut or scuff them.

 

[Sharps]

You need to tape those neutrals White.

Is that red pipe PE pipe for gas?

edit: I see the green stipe on the Poco aluminum now.

No that is for fiber optic supply. The gas will come in about a month. I really don't need the gas, but it is only 100 feet from the street and gas is ridiculously inexpensive in my area.

 

[MrMark]

Yeah, I am a little particular about construction techniques and maintenance. Actually it was really easy. Lay it out face down on three saw horses because of the 16 foot length, nail a 2X4 across the top of the saw horses to accommodate at least 48 inches of the material spaced 1 inch apart and roll on the KILZ exterior latex primer. Goes crazy fast if you do this before you even think about cutting it down. Then you just touch up the ends and edges if you cut or scuff them.

Doesn't that backside have a waxy protection factory applied? You've got me curious now. I have some scrap left, I'll have a look later. Good setup idea there.

Yours should last forever done that way.

 

[Sharps]

Doesn't that backside have a waxy protection factory applied? You've got me curious now. I have some scrap left, I'll have a look later. Good setup idea there.

Yours should last forever done that way.

No wax on any that i have ever used, however it is relatively water impervious due to the glue and the pressure applied to make it. I put an unprimed scrap piece outside in the garden 18 months ago for a test to see how it would hold up. It still looks new, except for the dirt and grime from being at ground level for that entire period. I will never use Hardie again after using this stuff.

Fewer **** seams, less breakage, easier to cut and paint, and cheaper...YMMV.

 

[stafford]

I used it on my little shop, hardi was 8.99 for 12' the smart side was 6.99 for 16'. I definitely don't care anything about working with the hardi board. The smart side is very easy to work with, I made a few little jigs to help me and I installed most of it by myself. I like the stuff so far.

 

[MrMark]

I used it on my little shop, hardi was 8.99 for 12' the smart side was 6.99 for 16'. I definitely don't care anything about working with the hardi board. The smart side is very easy to work with, I made a few little jigs to help me and I installed most of it by myself. I like the stuff so far.

that price rings bells here. I think that's around what I paid.

 

[danski0224]

WoW! You primed the backside? That is impressive for sure. It must have been a #^#% to do that? I make sure I prime all cuts but the backside? That must have taken some paint. The hardest part of the siding job is having to continuously paint edges during the installation. I did a rainscreen wall so I wasn't worried about the backside. Overkill for my area, but I just wanted to do it.

So you go through all that work of priming/painting everything but the backside and put up a rainscreen wall?

Wow. What a waste.

The primed backside prevents moisture from migrating through the siding from the back.

Unless this siding product is all resin with wood as a filler, it will absorb and release moisture. The moisture will migrate to the front and cause paint failure.

The only other * is if the manufacturer states that the backside can/should be left bare.

There have been a few other "manufactured wood product" siding materials over the years. I think most of them have failed miserably over the long haul.

Good luck.

Yeah, Hardi board isn't cheap.

I used prepainted pieces that were ~$7.50 per 12 foot long 4" exposure piece. When you factor in house paint, you can't beat the price.

It is OK to work with given the proper tools.

Long term durability of the substrate and factory paint is an unknown, but I'll put a little more faith in cement than wood chips and glue.

 

[MrMark]

So you go through all that work of priming/painting everything but the backside and put up a rainscreen wall?

Wow. What a waste.

The primed backside prevents moisture from migrating through the siding from the back.

Unless this siding product is all resin with wood as a filler, it will absorb and release moisture. The moisture will migrate to the front and cause paint failure.

The only other * is if the manufacturer states that the backside can/should be left bare.

There have been a few other "manufactured wood product" siding materials over the years. I think most of them have failed miserably over the long haul.

Good luck.

Yeah, Hardi board isn't cheap.

I used prepainted pieces that were ~$7.50 per 12 foot long 4" exposure piece. When you factor in house paint, you can't beat the price.

It is OK to work with given the proper tools.

Long term durability of the substrate and factory paint is an unknown, but I'll put a little more faith in cement than wood chips and glue.

You can have Hardy plant. Knock yourself out.

What a stupid comment about painting the edges with the rainscreen. That's lack of experience talking there. Rainscreen has nothing to do with protecting the edges. You need some experience or study before talking about something you don't know about. LP instructions REQUIRE painting the cut edges and every rainscreen article or discussion shows painting the cut edges. The whole point of the rainscreen is to protect the back from moisture wicking by creating a pressure neutral space. The back is not an issue with the rainscreen. The edges ARE ALWAYS an issue.