oilslick
Well-known member
Cool garage and interesting to follow the progress, good luck. I would ask to see some of the flat work guys work before they are cut loose because a bad pour can ruin your whole build, dont ask me how I know!
Lyle's 26x30 build
- Thread starter jlylec
- Start date
Builder told me yesterday afternoon it may be $90k. OMG!!!!!!!
I feel better about my price for a 30x40 at $29870!!!!! But it is a no frills garage just a slab, walls 2 10 foot doors, couple windows, partial 11' ceiling for a lift.
Your garage looks like its coming along a few bumps here and there are to be expected I guess.
I feel better about my price for a 30x40 at $29870!!!!! But it is a no frills garage just a slab, walls 2 10 foot doors, couple windows, partial 11' ceiling for a lift.
Your garage looks like its coming along a few bumps here and there are to be expected I guess.
I know...OMG is how I felt for a week or so. I've figured out a way to do it for about 75k now without sacrificing much (if anything). This is something I really think I'll get a lot of use and enjoyment out of for years so it's worth it to me. I'd love to build a no frills, much larger, steel shop, but I'm really limited by space and my HOA. It's funny (not really) how it's costing me so much more to get less. Hopefully it'll kill a couple birds though...look good and be extremely functional.
Bumps are certainly to be expected. I didn't expect them before I even had a slab, but if you knew when to expect them you could avoid them I guess and they'd never be bumps!
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
They'll tell you that 57's will self compact, but they don't. I live in an area where we have access to two kinds of stone, rounds and also crushed limestone. The crush limestone is supposed to lock together, but after a period of time it will settle. When we use river rock around here, which is the smaller round pebbles, it is supposed to compact as tight as can be. The theory behind that is that they are round and will work down past each other. Crushed stone locks together and will settle over time.
When I poured the pad for a hot tub, I dig down maybe 3 feet and removed sod and clay. I then filled it up with crushed stone and started tamping it. After the initial pass, it probably compacted 6"+. So no, #57's don't self compact. My garage was backfilled with #57's and not compacted and I can take a spud bar and go around and thump the concrete in different areas and hear hollow spots underneath.
You're supposed to compact this stuff in layers or runs or whatever they call it. lay down a foot and compact, lay down another foot and compact, etc. It is much more important for compacting fill, and there I think you need even more shallow layers, but even for #57 it can make a big difference. I wouldn't worry if I was building a patio or a road bed, obviously. But for a slab I would be a bit worried. It looks like you have some very deep gravel there as a base.
This isn't good news at all for me. I have about 1' or so in the front and 6-7' in the back. It wasn't tamped as it was poured in. I don't know exactly how much rain we got from Hurricane Sandy but it obviously settled some during that. Can I just tamp the hell out of it now in lieu of pulling so much of it out and doing it in 1' increments? This is really surprising to me because my builder is really good and honest. I just don't know him to take any short cuts and he's been building custom for like 30 years so I'm real curious why he didn't think we needed to tamp this. We are pouring 6" with wire and steel but no matter how thick and reinforced I'm sure you don't want caves of air from settled gravel under it! Great...set back #3 and I don't even have a slab yet...is that good?
Well lots of guys do say 57 is self-compacting so it often gets used that way. But it does for sure settle some. I had only about 1 foot of it under a paver driveway I put in and it tamped down about an inch. Settling can be also be exacerbated by not using underlayment/fabric. Sometimes fine grained stuff from the surrounding bed creeps into the voids which leads to even more settling: basically the stuff below and on the sides moves up/in. There is a lot of space in the pores of #57 so I always used landscape fabric.
Really glad I got on here today and I really appreciate the tip! I got WAY lucky as this road crew was working right by my house and had a heavy duty tamper/compacter. I asked the guy if he'd run it over my garage and he did and then wouldn't even take my money! I guess the hurricane and all the rain helped a lot cause it only dropped a couple inches but every little bit helps! Thanks again!
yeah the guy was very cool. glad i asked now. Those couple inches could have cost me a couple cracks in the long run. i know it's going to crack, but the less the better. my builder said he's going to put saw cuts across it into quarters to help cracking too.
i've also been looking into what kind of sealant to use. my builder said Tams 150 or 300 is good stuff to use. any thoughts out there on that? i'm hoping i can get some tinted kind that will somewhat stain the concrete as it goes on.
i've also been looking into what kind of sealant to use. my builder said Tams 150 or 300 is good stuff to use. any thoughts out there on that? i'm hoping i can get some tinted kind that will somewhat stain the concrete as it goes on.
Slab looks pretty good. They had to cover it with plastic the day they poured because it was raining that afternoon and now there are weird lines/marks in it. It's smooth it's just the look. Not the end of the world but not as perfect as I would have liked. It kind-of makes me want to epoxy it, but since I plan on really working in the garage and I've read that the epoxy can get beat up pretty easy and then is hard to fix. My builder is talking about being able to stain it or something before sealing it with some Lux-seak 300 or something. Any ideas?
Jwestercamp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2012
- Messages
- 121
if you havent yet make sure you put a good quality sealer on the concrete you can do it now and then a second coat when you are done BASF makes a goo dquality industrial grade call kure and seal i found out after we got my garage done it was too late, so i had to clean up all the construction mess first. good luck cool build jealous.
Yeah thanks...I'm going to seal it with something called Luster Seal 300. It's supposed to be really good, but who knows. I did see a basement with it and it looks nice. I was hoping to get the first coat on already because the sooner you use it the better, but I'm not real excited about the current finish on the slab and if I want to stain it or something I need to do that before I seal it.
Great looking build . . . it will complement your nice house.
Curious about the rafters that are much like TX hill country build that had large dormer space as well. What connection type do they have up on main support beam? No horizontal piece at top of rafter? Love the great space these create just curious what keeps them from collapsing if heavy snow load on roof?
Curious about the rafters that are much like TX hill country build that had large dormer space as well. What connection type do they have up on main support beam? No horizontal piece at top of rafter? Love the great space these create just curious what keeps them from collapsing if heavy snow load on roof?
They put in crossbars today between each rafter. Also got the roof covered. Hopefully get some pics tomorrow. Builder said that those crossbars were super important to keep it from falling in like you suggested. They were always in the plan. Installed at 8'. I asked if they could go hire and he said they'd lose their strength the higher they went. He's even bolting them to rafters along with nails. It's coming along now!
PrimeIsFine
Active member
Any chance that you could take some outside shots facing towards your house? I'm curious what it looks like that from that angle. Facing the opposite corner of your first and second pictures in post #63.
The style of the building reminds me of the house at the link below, which I've imagined as a shop since the first time I saw it. Maybe I'm just crazy.
http://www.dwell.com/slideshows/into-the-great-wide-open.html?c=y&paused=true
The style of the building reminds me of the house at the link below, which I've imagined as a shop since the first time I saw it. Maybe I'm just crazy.
http://www.dwell.com/slideshows/into-the-great-wide-open.html?c=y&paused=true
Sunbimmer
Well-known member
This is a nice one, great build.
I'm very curious of the end result, please keep us updated.
Subscribed!
I'm very curious of the end result, please keep us updated.
Subscribed!
This is a nice one, great build.
I'm very curious of the end result, please keep us updated.
Subscribed!
Thanks man I appreciate it! I'm really getting excited now that I can actually see and touch what I've been thinking about for years! I will definitely keep the thread updated. I pretty much decided on the Bend-Pak 9 extra wide and high 4-post lift to go in the lift area. I need to get that ordered soon I think. Can't wait to get to work IN the garage instead of ON it!
SiGmA_X
Well-known member
Roofline is really cool, I rather like it. What did you decide for the concrete fix/solution? With lifts, why 4 post over 2?
I actually haven't decided exactly on the floor. I think at this point I'll probably epoxy it since I didn't put the seal on it right away. I still can seal it with a few coats of good seal. One or the other. I really like the acid washing stuff people do but I can't justify the cost. I want too much other stuff! Like...
...the lift. I decided on the 4 post because I have enough space to get the wide one to work around and I like it for storing a vehicle. I wanted a space to work. This way with a jack bridge (rj-45 or whatever) I can do just about all the things I want to do to my cars and I can fit two cars on one side the rest of the time and leave the right bay open for working on stuff. Plus I can move it out of the way if I want. In the end I kinda felt like the features of the 4-post just outweighed the cons and the pros of a 2-post...for me. I'm just stoked to actually be getting a lift!
here's a pic from the front right. I'll get some rear shots today too.
I was hoping to have the dormer in place by christmas, but I guess that'll be the end of next week. The garage doors were just ordered so hopefully in 2 weeks it'll be all closed up. My next thing is to figure out where to run all the electrical stuff. Really torn between putting the compressor under the stairs and out of the elements or outside under the rear steps. I'm going to insulate and ventilate wherever I put it. I'll probably just stick it outside for more quiet inside.
PrimeIsFine
Active member
Thanks!
KnoxvilleTrader
New member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2013
- Messages
- 1
very nice.... this is just about what i have been wanting. i actually had my footers poured today,, were still tossing around garage ideas. that angle on the rood, and the way its set up is one of the best i have seen. just y opinion, maybe its because this is almost exactly what ive had visioned in my head.. LOOKS great, ill be posting mine up sometime in the next 24 hours. 28 x 30 detached.
Here's a couple updated pics.
Thanks for the note Knoxville. I'll take some more pics from the street in a bit and post them up. It's coming along really well I think and I love it. My wife thinks it looks too big, but she'll like it when it's done and the landscaping is done too. I hope!
I'm about to be delaying the progress because we're ready for electrical and I don't know where I want everything. Trying to decide if I want the compressor under the deck in the back or under the stairs inside. Other normal outlets I'm going to put high I think. And I need to figure out the placement of flood lights outside and stuff like that.
Thanks for the note Knoxville. I'll take some more pics from the street in a bit and post them up. It's coming along really well I think and I love it. My wife thinks it looks too big, but she'll like it when it's done and the landscaping is done too. I hope!
I'm about to be delaying the progress because we're ready for electrical and I don't know where I want everything. Trying to decide if I want the compressor under the deck in the back or under the stairs inside. Other normal outlets I'm going to put high I think. And I need to figure out the placement of flood lights outside and stuff like that.
Does anybody have any electrical suggestions or things you would do electrically if you did it all again? My electrician is coming Tuesday morning to walk through everything. Also thinking about doing some sort of security. Even if it's not tied into a monitoring service arming the windows and doors to set off a super loud siren would probably do the trick. Any thoughts on this?
thanks BK...I'm loving the dormer because it's going to be an actual working one with a roll out trolley and electric hoist. And it does help the roofline a lot. I need to take some more street distance shots because that's where it makes the biggest difference.
I like the looks of that compressor in your avatar. That looks to be inside. How loud is it and how did you insulate and ventilate the space for it?
I like the looks of that compressor in your avatar. That looks to be inside. How loud is it and how did you insulate and ventilate the space for it?
A couple more pics of the inside today right before I met with the electrician. I think we have a good plan. Can't wait to get this done and operational!
The boards on the ground are about where the posts for the lift are going to be...it's going to be a lot tighter than i thought or wanted!
Looking up through the lift hole you can see out the big dormer and to the workspace that will be up there...not tons but should be enough if i can keep all the kids **** out of here!
Stairs will go in here but I asked them not to put them in until the railing is put around the lift pit. My kids are crazy and my wife is already worried about how safe this building is (not).
Looking out from the back you can see it's not huge but if I keep it clean it should be enough for me. The 4-post will really help since I'll be able to stack the trucks and keep a bay clear for working in.
I still want to take more outside shots, but by the time I get home it's too dark and in the morning the guys are out there before I am and there's **** all strewn about. Maybe this weekend.
The boards on the ground are about where the posts for the lift are going to be...it's going to be a lot tighter than i thought or wanted!
Looking up through the lift hole you can see out the big dormer and to the workspace that will be up there...not tons but should be enough if i can keep all the kids **** out of here!
Stairs will go in here but I asked them not to put them in until the railing is put around the lift pit. My kids are crazy and my wife is already worried about how safe this building is (not).
Looking out from the back you can see it's not huge but if I keep it clean it should be enough for me. The 4-post will really help since I'll be able to stack the trucks and keep a bay clear for working in.
I still want to take more outside shots, but by the time I get home it's too dark and in the morning the guys are out there before I am and there's **** all strewn about. Maybe this weekend.
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SiGmA_X
Well-known member
You've seen SketchUp, right? It can help you with layouts before you cut metal/wood/or break ground. Pretty sweet, and free.
I'd put the 4 post on the right, and 2 post on the left, but that's just me! I get your reasoning for the 4 post instead of a 2 post, but you can store a car on a 2 post. It just takes more effort to put the cars/trucks on, but its still very quick. Like you said - any lift is better than no lift!
I'd put the 4 post on the right, and 2 post on the left, but that's just me! I get your reasoning for the 4 post instead of a 2 post, but you can store a car on a 2 post. It just takes more effort to put the cars/trucks on, but its still very quick. Like you said - any lift is better than no lift!
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