M12 Stubby 1/2” vs 3/8”

[gtsgarage]

I picked up the m12 Stubby 3/8” I also looked at the 1/2”, both are rated at 250ftlb so what’s the difference?

Any reason I would need both? As a hobby I work on cars and love tools.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

From what I've read, the only difference is the anvil. I went 1/2" as I have the smaller Milwaukee 3/8", and I wanted to be able to use my larger size range 1/2" sockets.

 

[Shehzada]

I picked up the m12 Stubby 3/8” I also looked at the 1/2”, both are rated at 250ftlb so what’s the difference?

Any reason I would need both? As a hobby I work on cars and love tools.

Did u get the "Fuel" version? How much?

Sent from my mobile device

 

[Holmesx10]

In theory the 1/2 anvil should have less torque loss timce it engages the socket more but in reality they will probably be about the same

 

[Tonyuk]

I have the 3/8, as mentioned the only difference between the two is the anvil, same for the M18 versions.

 

[chrisnazzy]

Here's my rationale:

I have the 2763 1/2" which can handle anything I'll ever need but certainly doesn't fit everywhere and it's obviously very heavy. It's come in handy for some suspension bolts, honda crank bolt and large motorhome lug nuts but really kind of cumbersome and overkill for lug nuts on cars and trucks.

I've been using my 1/4" hex impact with 1/4" and 3/8" square drive socket adapters for most smaller automotive fastener tasks. I also use an M12 3/8" ratchet.

Obviously I've known I needed to add a couple more tools to fill in the gaps here.

Ultimately I decided to go with the 1/2" mid torque and the 3/8" stubby M12. I figure the mid torque will be damn near perfect for lug nuts, suspension and underbody/fenderwell work and will fit so many places the big boy didn't.

My choice to go with 3/8" in the M12 stubby is primarily because I was ready to retire my hex impact from anything other that household and woodworking fastening jobs and step up to a real 3/8" impact for automotive use. The stubby design is extremely compact and I already own 3/8" impact sockets for metric, SAE, torx and hex applications.

I just got the mid torque from eBay's 15% off anything sale before Thanksgiving. I was able to get it for $115. I'll be pulling the trigger on the stubby here soon for a Christmas present for myself. Watching for CPO to maybe drop their price back down to $127 again. I'm also going to order an M12 6ah battery to compliment it as well as I only have a bunch of 1.5ah and 2ah.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[DFB]

The M18 compacts do have different RPM/IPM's for slightly different torque values on both the #1 and #2 mode settings compared to each other and of course there was a nominal increase at max. in mode #3 usually 10lbs.

Finding those ratings published anywhere online is difficult at best, I have values somewhere on the Gen 1 M18 wrenches 3/8" and 1/2". Others on this board have confirmed in the past (buried deep in the Milwaukee addiction thread to my remembered knowledge) that it is also similar with the Gen 2 M18 compacts.

As far as I know nothing has ever been mentioned about any differences in mode RPM between the 1/2 and 3/8" on the new Stubby models. or the Mid Torques for that matter.

Does the owners manual list any mode setting rpm values. My mid torque was before the 3/8" release.

Seems the general consensus is for 3/8 for the compactness using a slightly smaller socket. I often feel the heavier 1/2 socket hits a bit harder.

 

[gtsgarage]

Thanks all seem like they would be redundant for the most part. I’ve still got air tools if I need a bigger IMO t but I’m guessing an M18 Impact may come in handy some day.

 

[DFB]

Just looked over several owners manuals Milwaukee Tool has posted online on the different impact wrenches.

For the 3 models Stubby of 1/2 ring, 1/2 pin and 3/8 ring they just list one set of numbers

Mode #1 0-1200 RPM / 0-1100 IPM,
Mode#2 0-1800 RPM / 0-2100 IPM,
Mode #3 0-2700 RPM / 0-3200 IPM
Mode #4 0-2700* Auto shutoff

On the Mid Torque it varies depending on anvil configuration

2852 3/8"

Mode 1 No Load RPM 0-575 / IPM 450
Mode 2 No Load RPM 0-2000 / IPM 2900
Mode 3 No Load RPM 0-2300/IPM 0-3200

2861-20 Anvil Type 1/2" Square-Ring
Mode 1 RPM 0 - 510/IPM 420
Mode 2 RPM 0- 2100/IPM 2700
Mode 3 RPM 0- 2400/IPM 3000

2860-20 Anvil 1/2" Square-Pin
Mode 1 1700/2300
Mode 2 2100/2700
Mode 3 2400/3000

And on the Compacts

2754-20
Mode#1 900
Mode#2 1600
Mode#3 2500
Mode #4 1600 - tool will shut off after about one second of impacting ††

2755-20 pin
2755B-20 ring
Mode#1 1700
Mode#2 2000
Mode#3 2500
Mode#4 2000 - tool will shut off after about one second of impacting †††

No IPM were even listed in the Operators Manual

And for the older Gen 1 series

2654-20 ring
Mode#1 900RPM/1100 IPM 30ft.lbs
Mode#2 1600RPM/2400IPM 75ft.lbs
Mode#3 2400RPM/3100IPM 200ftlbs

2655-20 pin
2655B-20 ball pin

Mode#1 1700RPM / 2000IPM 80ft.lbs
Mode#2 2000RPM / 3000IPM 120ft.lbs
Mode#3 2400RPM / 3100IPM 210ft.lbs

Included are the once published torque numbers based on those mode settings. IMO I think they stopped publishing those type of numbers because of the all variables involved including length impacting time and fastener size.

RTR did a video testing that with 2763 and the Mode #1 100ftlb setting. the results were only achievable with one specific size threaded fastener per company test spec

And just to note ALL the different Fuel Impact DRIVERS that been released over time have their own various set of RPM/IPM/Torque values too. But hey...we won't even go there.

 

[HaroRider]

I believe the 1/2" will hit harder even though they are the same torque.

 

[Craftfab]

I went with the 3/8 as it was widely recommended with one of the biggest stated pluses, that I saw, being the small nano size of the sockets available compared to the same size in a 1/2" impact socket.

After my purchase I saw someone point out (I had not thought of it) that given the shape of the stubby in either size, if your bolt/nut has any bracket or protrusion around it, having a nano size socket on the anvil may not give you access (therefore in some instances for some folks, that selling point may be a wash). I went after reading that to look at my project jeep and in the tight spots were I would grab the stubby, I don't see myself needing a nano 3/8 socket in order to ensure fitting. The 1/2 would likely work just the same.

I already had the 1/2 m18 high torque and a full sunex 1/2 impact set so in hindsight, for my needs as a hobbyist only, I wish I had gone with the 1/2 since I already had made the investment in sockets.