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Maintenance free floor

brihvac

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Joined
Dec 21, 2011
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484
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North Wilmington, Delaware
I have posted here before about epoxy floors and painted floors and got all great opinions on how to do it. The only issue is that it looks like there is a lot of prep and maintenance to these floors.
Heres my bottom line. I want my floor to be a medium shade of grey. I do not want to do anything to it once its done. The floor is not poured yet, and adding color to the concrete is not gonna be an option because I believe that the garage floor and the drive way extension is gonna be poured at the same time. Is there someting that can be sprayed onto the concrete when its wet? Mixed while its coming out of the shute onto the floor? While its drying? Right after it drys? Remeber I do not want to do any sanding, grinding, maintenance or "involved" prep of any kind. If it can't be done it can't be done. Just wondering if there is an easy way.
 
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thegarageguy

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It can't be done....concrete is pourous by nature and some sort of process is needed to make it a more sanitary and comfortable surface. You either power trowel and burnished it, mechanically polish it or coat it. There is no magic mix or secret formula to make it maintenance free. It's a wear surface, no matter what you do to it, it'll always require some sort of maintenance.
 
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brihvac

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Dec 21, 2011
Messages
484
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North Wilmington, Delaware
It can't be done....concrete is pourous by nature and some sort of process is needed to make it a more sanitary and comfortable surface. You either power trowel and burnished it, mechanically polish it or coat it. There is no magic mix or secret formula to make it maintenance free. It's a wear surface, no matter what you do to it, it'll always require some sort of maintenance.

Thanks, I will just leave it alone. I do not want to be working ON my garage more than I am working IN my garage.
 

ConCretin

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Central Maine
brihvac, if you can find a qualified finisher, you could apply a shake on colored hardener. It is a powdered material that is applied to the concrete surface during the finishing process. After the hardener is applied, the concrete surface is finished, more or less, as usual. The resulting surface retain the selected color and will be more durable than a typical concrete slab.

The big challenge is likely to be finding someone who has the experience to use the product. It's not rocket science but the timing and process can be a little tricky.
 

Gregishome

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Dec 29, 2011
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Thanks, I will just leave it alone. I do not want to be working ON my garage more than I am working IN my garage.

Finally someone that agrees with me. Anytime, anything is put on concrete it will sooner or later have to be removed or redone because of the treatment garage floors get. Have your concrete finisher to put a clear curing sealer on the concrete after he runs the last finish trowel over it, and your set for years.

Other than that, if a person HAS to have something other than concrete in their garage (why ? ) I would put VCT (checkerboard pattern)on a garage floor with four coats of high solids wax on it. It is a lot easier to take up and replace than some of the epoxy systems they are selling now which will get soiled and scarred just like the VCT will. jmo
 

bazzateer

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Oct 8, 2009
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Watford, Great Britain
Just get the garage floor done first, then get the driveway done - simples!
After all, you're the customer, get it done the way you want it done.
 

CaptainRay

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Nov 8, 2010
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Location
Missouri
If your heart is set on epoxy I would suggest that you do some research first to avoid the common mistakes. I got my answers from Youtube and google search. 1) you need a test kit to make sure there isn't too much moistue, epoxy will laminate if there is too much moisture. If it is fresh cement you might want to give it a good amount of time to set up. 2) You will need to etch the cement or use some other method to make it rough; epoxy will not adhere to a slick surface (I now this one from experience). 3) You will want to put down plastic under your cement slab as a vapor barrier. 4) Make sure you wait till summer months to do the work, epoxy won’t set up well with cold nights even if the daytime temps are 60 to 70 degrees. 5) Keep brake fluid off of your epoxy floor it will eat it up. 6) epoxy does not like water so don’t leave puddles of water around in your shop from spills. 6) epoxy does not breathe that makes it a bad choice in my opinion, it will eventually come up. 7) Epoxy will not hold up well if you do a lot of welding.

I personally don't like epoxy, it was a terrible choice for me and a total waste of money. I found some more info on epoxy, this is one page/post http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=14047

From what I have read and my personal experience, if you plan on useing your shop you will find that epoxy does not last long.
 

Edger

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May 18, 2011
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Melbourne Australia
If you see a very hard concrete floor in an industrial plant it will still be fine even after decades of high wear with no sealer or maintenance. By hardening your quality garage floor you will achieve something similar.
 
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brihvac

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Dec 21, 2011
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North Wilmington, Delaware
We have the dry colored hardener.
Your mason can apply it for you.

This is only going to add color and help harden the surface, no more- no less.
Link:
http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/color-hardener-60-pound-p-290.html
Thats all Im looking to do is adding color. Seeing that its "in" the concrete I am assuming that it can withstand spilling laquar thinner and brake fluid on it without the color coming out.
How much do I need for a 16'X26' floor? I assume it comes with instructions? Platinum Grey looks close to what I want.
 
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thegarageguy

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By hardening your quality garage floor you will achieve something similar.


Not sure why densifying is being pushed so hard lately on this forum but it will not resist staining, especially in a garage floor setting. I think you are over selling it and giving people false hopes. It's tough enough in this biz to meet our clients expectations, especially with all the over blown hype on polyaspartics. Densifier is not the magic bullet everyone has been looking for. It may be a cheap option on power troweled concrete that will primarily have foot traffic, but that's it.
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks, I will just leave it alone. I do not want to be working ON my garage more than I am working IN my garage.
That's a fine sentiment, but you might not want to hang out on this forum too long if you want to stick to your guns on that. This is the Garage Journal, after all. :evil:

I want to drive my track car more than I want to work on it. But to get to that place, I had to invest some time in building it right the first time. A garage is both a tool you use for other projects and it's also a part of your house where you're going to spend a lot of time. Just as having a roof above your head makes it easier to get stuff done inside a garage, a few basic modifications -- a good floor, some work benches, some good storage... they'll all pay off in the long run.

Now, if a floor that stains easily and produces dust is something you're happy with, then ordinary concrete is pretty great in terms of low maintenance and high functional durability.

I tiled my garage for under $500. Nothing will stain it. It doesn't generate or hold onto dust. It reflects light well. It's easy to keep clean. I don't have to protect it from jacks, jack stands or any tools I use. And it requires no maintenance at all. It took me three days to do the installation by myself. (I'd never installed tile before.) For me, that amount of trade-off was an easy decision. Four years later, I'm still happy about that decision every time I step into my garage.
 

ConCretin

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Anyone who has read the debates on here regarding the options for treating or covering a garage slab would have to agree with GarageGuy on one thing - there is no magic bullet. As with every building material, each has its own properties, pros and cons.

The OP seemed most interested in a quick way to add color and reduce future maintenance on his floor. Shake on colored hardener is a good solution. It is used in industrial applications for these very reasons.

A shake on product won't eliminate stains but the OP is willing to go with a plain concrete slab to eliminate the hassle of other products so stains are obviously not his biggest concern. it would give him the color he wants and a more durable surface.

Based on the OP's criteria, he got some good suggestions.
 
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brihvac

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Dec 21, 2011
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I have layed plenty of tile reduing my 1940's home. I see you are in LA. Around here we get 100 degree temperatures and we get below 0 temperatures. With that extreme temperature change along with rolling floor jacks, engine lifts, pulling transmissions, my 4X4 pickup, etc across the floor, Im sure its gonna crack and chip tiles.

LLwillysfan- you are dead on with what I am looking to do. I appreciate everyones input.
 
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Shalikp

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Dec 26, 2011
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I tiled my garage for under $500. Nothing will stain it. It doesn't generate or hold onto dust. It reflects light well. It's easy to keep clean. I don't have to protect it from jacks, jack stands or any tools I use. And it requires no maintenance at all. It took me three days to do the installation by myself. (I'd never installed tile before.) For me, that amount of trade-off was an easy decision. Four years later, I'm still happy about that decision every time I step into my garage.

Jack, what did you tile it with?
 

Jack Olsen

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I have layed plenty of tile reduing my 1940's home. I see you are in LA. Around here we get 100 degree temperatures and we get below 0 temperatures. With that extreme temperature change along with rolling floor jacks, engine lifts, pulling transmissions, my 4X4 pickup, etc across the floor, Im sure its gonna crack and chip tiles.
I would have thought that, too. But you set tile differently in a garage than you would in a bathroom. Also, tiles are rated on their moisture content, which determines how they'll hold up to freeze/thaw cycles. And I've pulled multiple engines on mine, dropped tools, rolled floor jacks and all of that. The only thing that leaves a mark is weld spatter, and that's just pinhole-type burns in the surface. The tiles are very strong. (Click on the words 'very strong' and watch how the camera jumps around when I hit the floor with a hammer.)

Jack, what did you tile it with?
Ceramic tiles from Home Depot. They were .59/sf on sale. I figured out how to install them myself.

They are MUCH thicker than epoxies or floor treatments, and have no issues with any solvents I've spilled on them.
 
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slickgt1

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Oct 11, 2010
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I have layed plenty of tile reduing my 1940's home. I see you are in LA. Around here we get 100 degree temperatures and we get below 0 temperatures. With that extreme temperature change along with rolling floor jacks, engine lifts, pulling transmissions, my 4X4 pickup, etc across the floor, Im sure its gonna crack and chip tiles.

LLwillysfan- you are dead on with what I am looking to do. I appreciate everyones input.

Umm, no. I'm in NYC. Add the temperatures, plus snow, ice, salt. I did porcelain because Jack put me up to it. Click link.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95966
 
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