Make a door taller?

[socapots]

Hey all,

As suspected a new shop is not in the budget for me this year. So I've decided on plan B. Which is to make the attached garage door opening large enough to fit my truck into.
Currently the door is 16X7. The truck just is just under 7 feet. And a little to close for my liking. Plus when I put the eventual lift on it the 7 foot door will certainly be to small. Plan is to make It a 16X8.
I have no experience with framing.
I'm looking to find out what is involved so that when I have someone come and do it I will have a bit of a clue what should be happening. I will try get some pictures up tonight at some point.
Thanks for any advice. All comments are welcome.

 

[Strouty]

You should be able to reuse the header, if there is trim around the door frame you may want to remove it. It may be obvious what was used and I can't believe that moving things up one foot would be a huge difference. Get some pictures and you may get some internet engineering (it is worth exactly as much as yo pay for it).

 

[AndyL]

Generally permits and a structural engineer are the big part of it...

In my experience, they don't let you reuse the beam - replacement is usually ~2" taller, and some additional framing at the jambs is required (needs to be replaced).

Now that's based on more current local codes (since ~97?) - some older homes - have some interesting framing; and it can get fun... and expensive; as they want you to bring all the framing up to current standards.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Does the door actually clear the entire opening. I have seen some that still are covering the opening even when all the way open. If it is still covering part of the opening then going to just the 16x8 door may give you enough clearance. The trim on top of the door might could be replaced with siding material and give you another inch or so.

 

[Zeke]

There will need to be some kind of temporary bracing to cut out the header. Could be as simple as raising the header and installing new jack studs. You need at least a 9' wall to have an 8' opening. And then it won't be 8' net. 10' wall would be better.

If the work is to be done on a gable end and the side walls are not 9' or better, tie in is going to be interesting.

 

[pattenp]

Pictures are really needed. Is the door in a load bearing wall or non-load bearing wall?

 

[socapots]

Generally permits and a structural engineer are the big part of it...

In my experience, they don't let you reuse the beam - replacement is usually ~2" taller, and some additional framing at the jambs is required (needs to be replaced).

Now that's based on more current local codes (since ~97?) - some older homes - have some interesting framing; and it can get fun... and expensive; as they want you to bring all the framing up to current standards.

I can't tell where you are from.. But local to where?

 

[Twiggss]

I can't tell where you are from.. But local to where?

look under his name @ Location

you should do the same, might help.

 

[p_mori7]

Lower the floor and add a panel to the bottom of the garage door.

 

[socapots]

look under his name @ Location



you should do the same, might help.

I am using that wonderful (sometimes) thing called tapatalk on a BB.
Anyone know how to figure where someone is from without clicking through a bunch of extra screens?

 

[socapots]

Lower the floor and add a panel to the bottom of the garage door.

My pops thought the same. But its a pretty beefy concrete beam set on piles. No way am I messing with cutting into concrete. Lol.

 

[socapots]

And I gotta get the kids to bed then I'll get some pics up.

screw it. no pictures tonight. photobucket is being stupid.

 

[MScott]

I can't tell where you are from.. But local to where?

look under his name @ Location

you should do the same, might help.

I am using that wonderful (sometimes) thing called tapatalk on a BB.
Anyone know how to figure where someone is from without clicking through a bunch of extra screens?

If everone would follow the suggestions in this post, we could avoid these sort of discussions.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36660

 

[socapots]

Back to the topic at hand.
here are some pictures.

the measurements there are not exact. But id say close to within 1/4 of an inch.
as i said before. im mostly curious about what will need to be done... not so much about meeting codes and the sort. I will be talking with my Municipality closer to reno time for all of the appropriate permits and the sort.

 

[pattenp]

Looks to me there isn't enough height to make the door opening 8ft tall. The header is load bearing.

 

[Zeke]

I don't think you'll get a full 8 feet out of that either. Not using wood anyway.

 

[socapots]

I think I see why.
But now that makes me wonder how there could be more space on the inside then on the outside..
You know what I mean? I don't believe my hip style shop is like that. How did they do that here?
I may take off some of the interior drywall and see what under it.
More to come.

 

[spotco2]

Buy a shorter truck.

Much easier and probably cheaper.

 

[Gary S]

It's doable. My Son and I changed the door on his shop. He had a 9x7 and wanted a 16x8, so we tore out the short header and replaced it with a long one, removed a window on each side of the 9' door, and installed the door he wanted. It took us an entire day, but we aren't professional carpenters.
A job like this is very basic. You need a hammer, a measuring tape, and some common sense.

 

[p_mori7]

Concrete beam set on piles ? Perhaps I missed something, but that looks like just a regular foundation wall ?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I think I see why.
But now that makes me wonder how there could be more space on the inside then on the outside..
You know what I mean? I don't believe my hip style shop is like that. How did they do that here?
I may take off some of the interior drywall and see what under it.
More to come.

Maybe the garage roof is framed with rafters and not trusses ? On the outside, you maybe have the fascia board fastened at the lower edge of the rafter tail. Doing this and using a 2x6 would make the soffit lower on the outside.

17.5" + 5.5" + 1" = 24" (your measurement + 2x6 fascia board + soffit)

That puts you with a couple of inches of your interior measurement. Once you add in door framing (not sure where you exactly measured from) of a 2x10, that's another 1.5"

 

[pattenp]

Just don't under size the header beam to get your height. Once you open the wall to see the existing beam and it's width you will have a better idea as to how much you can raise the door opening. If the existing header is dimensional lumber then you can replace it with either a LVL or Flinch beam to possibly get more height.

 

[rafe]

Check to see if you are already maxed out ....looks like you may be ....or close ....when you say you are going to put in a lift ...it doesn't look like you will be able to lift very much (height)! I just don't see those costs justifiying the gains ...but if you have enough money anything can be done ...

 

[AndyL]

I'm interested in seeing how this plays out - guessing the new beam probably has to extend past the man door.

But, remember - leave 14" clear above the opening for the door, doors can generally be ordered in 3" increments (but not 8'3") so 7'6 or 7'9 tall is very possible. Dependant on how the lintel framing requirements work out.

 

[pattenp]

Depending on the door manufacturer and the turn radius of tracks you can get by with as little as 12" above the door.

 

[fury9]

Lower the floor and add a panel to the bottom of the garage door.

You can't be serious

 

[socapots]

Concrete beam set on piles ? Perhaps I missed something, but that looks like just a regular foundation wall ?

Yeah. Piles on all corners. And I think one in the middle of each wall except for the one shared with the house.
I know this because I found the drawings for the house when we moved in (house was built in late 70s). And there is a lot of piles lol.

 

[socapots]

Check to see if you are already maxed out ....looks like you may be ....or close ....when you say you are going to put in a lift ...it doesn't look like you will be able to lift very much (height)! I just don't see those costs justifiying the gains ...but if you have enough money anything can be done ...

Sorry. I ment Lift on the truck. Nothing crazy. Less then 6 inches for sure.

 

[socapots]

Depending on the door manufacturer and the turn radius of tracks you can get by with as little as 12" above the door.

That Is what I was thinking. Hopefully look into it a bit today. Maybe even pull down the drywall on the inside, see what's in there.

Thanks again guys for all the replies. I'll keep this updated when things happen.

 

[CNGsaves]

That Is what I was thinking. Hopefully look into it a bit today. Maybe even pull down the drywall on the inside, see what's in there.

Thanks again guys for all the replies. I'll keep this updated when things happen.

Post up some pics once you get interior sheetrock pulled off. That will really show what room you have to move header up.

Also, might be able to use something besides 2x12's as header to get you some height?? Maybe lam beam or even steel?? May not be cheap, but surely there are options. Good luck.

 

[p_mori7]

You can't be serious

Why not ?

We did this at my Dad's house about 10-12 yrs ago so his customized Savanna could fit into the garage.

It was super easy.

Used a skid steer with a concrete claw to bust out the old floor, that took about 2 hours, then changed the bucket to excavate the sand base, lowered the drain, had a guy come in with a hydraulic powered concrete saw on frame to lower the threshold, poured new floor, installed longer tracks for the door, added a new lower panel to the door, done.

The drive way was not yet paved and was on a slight upwards incline, so once done, the incline of the driveway was flatter.

Also, the house was a cottage with a second storey above the garage, so no way to go "up" to enlarge the opening.

This is the house:

 

[p_mori7]

Yeah. Piles on all corners. And I think one in the middle of each wall except for the one shared with the house.
I know this because I found the drawings for the house when we moved in (house was built in late 70s). And there is a lot of piles lol.

OK. The concrete pad is resting on piles rather than a perimiter foundation wall...that would indeed make lowering the floor a more challenging undertaking.

 

[AndyL]

Depending on the door manufacturer and the turn radius of tracks you can get by with as little as 12" above the door.

Yes, but you leave yourself more (sometimes less expensive) and smoother running options when you leave a full 14". With 2'2" above, a full 1' taller door (if beam allows) it's not an issue... It's when the installer finds that there's only 12" and the floors 3" off level that things start getting less pretty.

So people like me always say 14" thus we've got extra space so there's room for snafu's.

 

[fury9]

Back to the topic at hand.
here are some pictures.

the measurements there are not exact. But id say close to within 1/4 of an inch.
as i said before. im mostly curious about what will need to be done... not so much about meeting codes and the sort. I will be talking with my Municipality closer to reno time for all of the appropriate permits and the sort.

For one, it looks like you have a roof pitch of about..2 That pitch (around here) shouldn't even have shingles on it, Two, I'm curious as to how you have 17.5 inches on the outside and 26.75 inches on the inside, if that is so your garage door is already probably as high as it can go.You can't go any higher unless you want your garage top plate to be raised another x amount of inches which is going to change your roof line and your garage roof will be taller than your, WAIT, is this garage attached?

 

[fury9]

Back to the topic at hand.
here are some pictures.

the measurements there are not exact. But id say close to within 1/4 of an inch.
as i said before. im mostly curious about what will need to be done... not so much about meeting codes and the sort. I will be talking with my Municipality closer to reno time for all of the appropriate permits and the sort.

edit- you were somewhat unclear in your description of the (attached) garage, well at least I think you were somewhat unclear, Your garage will need new roof framing to accommodate a taller door, among other things. If digging out the driveway is a cheaper option that's what I would do, If you HAVE to get that car in the garage.

 

[socapots]

OK. The concrete pad is resting on piles rather than a perimiter foundation wall...that would indeed make lowering the floor a more challenging undertaking.

according to the drawings, piles under the perimeter. Nothing under the floor. The floor has shifted in its lifetime. But does not have gaping cracks and the sort in it..
unlike my existing shop.. but that's another story.

 

[socapots]

well now im even more confused. I thought i would open up the wall on the inside and see a header and some structure above it.
Well.. I certainly don't have the experience to say for certain. But i dont think it should look like this. Im a tad apprehensive to take the white board down. I dont think its structural.. but i dont know if i want to see what is behind it. lol..

 

[socapots]

thanks again for looking and all comments

 

[Thumper68]

Looks like you have plenty of room to install a new engineered beam and make the door opening large enough for a taller door. You may have to have the soffit reframed too, but very doable.

 

[VegasSteve]

I'm a licensed architect (NV/UT/CO) Raising the beam looks very "do-able"... and quite probably you could re-use the existing beam. Hire a local engineer to help you. Often times these 70's homes were "stick-framed". It appears the eave is boxed/soffited, which explains the higher ceiling inside. I think you have several option, including: replace the beam with a fatter x shallower unit; or "sister" (glue/nail) a 2x or engineered member to the side of your existing beam (if code requires); or maybe move the beam into the garage a bit to get the top of beam higher up the rise of the roof slope (moves the bearing line in).... Or even change the roof joist to hang on the side of the beam, then re-frame the eave..... Talk to an engineer familiar with custom wood-framed structures.... GO FOR IT.... Wood is very forgiveable! If all else fails, buy a steel beam or an engineered steel light gage boxed beam.