If I make a set of U-bolts, to mount a bracket, do I start with 5/16" or 3/8" rod if I want that respective size die on them for the threads ?
Next question, hot of cold rolled rod ?
Next question, hot of cold rolled rod ?
That **** always breaks when I try to bend it.Have you considered 3/8 allthread and then sheath it with rubber hose?
Basically yeah. I would imagine for most applications you would want cold rolled, but that really would depend on your application.
I think cold rolled would thread better .
Yes. A 3/8 thread will be slightly smaller than 3/8, .372 or so. The nut might be pretty tight is you have a true or oversized 3/8 rod.
Maybe use threaded rod and heat and beat the center to flatten it out a bit.
Have you considered 3/8 allthread and then sheath it with rubber hose?
That **** always breaks when I try to bend it.
Look up u-bolts on McMaster-Carr. They should have some that will fit a trailer frame member. To answer the original question, 3/8" rod for 3/8" thread and 5/16" for 5/16", etc....
I see what you are doing there. The flat will give a better seat for the u-bolt to work on.Maybe use threaded rod and heat and beat the center to flatten it out a bit.
I used 3/8 threaded rod. I wanted zinc plated so plain rod wouldn't do it. Bent fine on my cheap compact bender.
how tight of a radius or what is the center to center distance of the stubs once it is bent?
I would stay away from all thread. It is low grade, grade 2 in most cases, and when you bend it, you form multiple stress risers through out the curvature of the radius i.e. multiple failure points.
I see what you are doing there. The flat will give a better seat for the u-bolt to work on.
In that case, I would heat the area where you will make the bend, maybe 3 or 4" and then bend around a 3/8" or 1/2" stud as a mandrel. This will allow the material to yield easier on the outside of the bend (tension stress) and on the inside of the bend (compression stress). It will keep the rod from "wrinkling" or a stress tear on the outside.I don't have the measurement but it will be more of a square bolt that U-shaped with two 90° bends rather than a rounded "U".
In that case, I would heat the area where you will make the bend, maybe 3 or 4" and then bend around a 3/8" or 1/2" stud as a mandrel. This will allow the material to yield easier on the outside of the bend (tension stress) and on the inside of the bend (compression stress). It will keep the rod from "wrinkling" or a stress tear on the outside.



That's the GJ way!
Find a project ( big or small), decide you need more tools which gives you a reason to go shopping at the "man's mall".
Oh - post pics - step by step![]()
a few moments in a RV catalog?; you can't be the first one to mount a cylinder.
Locally we have a Ranch N Home store. They have U-bolts and all sorts of assorted trailer parts in one aisle. You might check your area to see if they have similar stores.


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Cold rolled is stronger than hot rolled. It also has a tighter tolerance on diameter. Which would be important if you are gonna run a die down it.
Of course, I do agree w previous posts about you should check McM-C. They do have a pretty good selection of round and square.
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How easy was it to use the HF bender? Worth the purchase?

