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Making u-bolt question

NUTTSGT

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If I make a set of U-bolts, to mount a bracket, do I start with 5/16" or 3/8" rod if I want that respective size die on them for the threads ?


Next question, hot of cold rolled rod ?
 
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ishiboo

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Basically yeah. I would imagine for most applications you would want cold rolled, but that really would depend on your application.
 
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NUTTSGT

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It's for a bracket to hold an LP tank on my enclosed trailer. So it won't be for a spring pack on a vehicle or anything like that.
 

RVDan

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Yes. A 3/8 thread will be slightly smaller than 3/8, .372 or so. The nut might be pretty tight is you have a true or oversized 3/8 rod.
 

LXCam

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Have you considered 3/8 allthread and then sheath it with rubber hose?
 

manwithtools

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Look up u-bolts on McMaster-Carr. They should have some that will fit a trailer frame member. To answer the original question, 3/8" rod for 3/8" thread and 5/16" for 5/16", etc....
 
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NUTTSGT

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Basically yeah. I would imagine for most applications you would want cold rolled, but that really would depend on your application.

I think cold rolled would thread better .


Looks like Menard's has some rod in stock for a decent price....relative to anybody else without making a special trip somewhere. They have both hot/cold rolled.

Yes. A 3/8 thread will be slightly smaller than 3/8, .372 or so. The nut might be pretty tight is you have a true or oversized 3/8 rod.


Thanks for the info.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Maybe use threaded rod and heat and beat the center to flatten it out a bit.

Have you considered 3/8 allthread and then sheath it with rubber hose?


I used some all thread to mount the tongue box on my open trailer. I never liked the way it looked. It always seems to scratched anything that touches it or as it's put together. I wanted to avoid using it.

That **** always breaks when I try to bend it.

It's happened more than once to me, although I'll put some heat on it when I do bend the rod.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Look up u-bolts on McMaster-Carr. They should have some that will fit a trailer frame member. To answer the original question, 3/8" rod for 3/8" thread and 5/16" for 5/16", etc....

Thanks. I didn't think anybody would carry anything in the exact size that I need. However, I don't know the exact size I need either at the moment. :D
 

Doug Arthurs

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I used 3/8 threaded rod. I wanted zinc plated so plain rod wouldn't do it. Bent fine on my cheap compact bender.
 

laser3kw

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how tight of a radius or what is the center to center distance of the stubs once it is bent?
I would stay away from all thread. It is low grade, grade 2 in most cases, and when you bend it, you form multiple stress risers through out the curvature of the radius i.e. multiple failure points.

Maybe use threaded rod and heat and beat the center to flatten it out a bit.
I see what you are doing there. The flat will give a better seat for the u-bolt to work on.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I used 3/8 threaded rod. I wanted zinc plated so plain rod wouldn't do it. Bent fine on my cheap compact bender.

I'm going to prime and paint the bolts once they are made. Once installed, i'll probably give a coat with some undercoating.

What are you using to bend yours? Got a picture of your bender ?
 
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NUTTSGT

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how tight of a radius or what is the center to center distance of the stubs once it is bent?
I would stay away from all thread. It is low grade, grade 2 in most cases, and when you bend it, you form multiple stress risers through out the curvature of the radius i.e. multiple failure points.


I see what you are doing there. The flat will give a better seat for the u-bolt to work on.

That's why I was wanted to avoid using all-thread/threaded rod.

I don't have the measurement but it will be more of a square bolt that U-shaped with two 90° bends rather than a rounded "U".
 
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laser3kw

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I don't have the measurement but it will be more of a square bolt that U-shaped with two 90° bends rather than a rounded "U".
In that case, I would heat the area where you will make the bend, maybe 3 or 4" and then bend around a 3/8" or 1/2" stud as a mandrel. This will allow the material to yield easier on the outside of the bend (tension stress) and on the inside of the bend (compression stress). It will keep the rod from "wrinkling" or a stress tear on the outside.
 
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NUTTSGT

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In that case, I would heat the area where you will make the bend, maybe 3 or 4" and then bend around a 3/8" or 1/2" stud as a mandrel. This will allow the material to yield easier on the outside of the bend (tension stress) and on the inside of the bend (compression stress). It will keep the rod from "wrinkling" or a stress tear on the outside.



My first thought was to heat and bend around and (cut to the appropriate size) block of wood. Then I saw Doug's post about a compact bender. So I took a quick gander at HF and they have a small bender. Utilizing a 20% coupon, it might be about $35 and was considering stopping by to look at it. It's on the way where I need to do some running around. :dunno:
 

laser3kw

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That's the GJ way!:rocker:
Find a project ( big or small), decide you need more tools which gives you a reason to go shopping at the "man's mall". :thumbup:
Oh - post pics - step by step :beer:
 

66cj225

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a few moments in a RV catalog?; you can't be the first one to mount a cylinder.
 

kenners

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Locally we have a Ranch N Home store. They have U-bolts and all sorts of assorted trailer parts in one aisle. You might check your area to see if they have similar stores.
 
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NUTTSGT

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That's the GJ way!:rocker:
Find a project ( big or small), decide you need more tools which gives you a reason to go shopping at the "man's mall". :thumbup:
Oh - post pics - step by step :beer:



LOL, been awhile since I bought any tools. I think I might be due. . . .


Men/Tools = or > Women/shoes&purses
 
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NUTTSGT

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Locally we have a Ranch N Home store. They have U-bolts and all sorts of assorted trailer parts in one aisle. You might check your area to see if they have similar stores.

We have Rural King, I try to avoid that place, not because I don't like them but I might end going in and coming out with a new pistol. :lol:

TSC and Family, Farm, & Home; they both have some stuff but I don't think they will have anything in the size I need. It has to be tall enough to fit the frame on my enclosed trailer.
 

md21722

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Any truck spring shop can make them on the spot. They just need to know what size rod, inside diameter, length and if you want rounded or square.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Picked up this compact bender today from HF. I figured for less than $35 out the door, it'll work for what I'm doing, hopefully. Going to try to get out in the garage tomorrow

 

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Danno1

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.



Cold rolled is stronger than hot rolled. It also has a tighter tolerance on diameter. Which would be important if you are gonna run a die down it.

Of course, I do agree w previous posts about you should check McM-C. They do have a pretty good selection of round and square.


.
 
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NUTTSGT

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.



Cold rolled is stronger than hot rolled. It also has a tighter tolerance on diameter. Which would be important if you are gonna run a die down it.

Of course, I do agree w previous posts about you should check McM-C. They do have a pretty good selection of round and square.


.

The 5/16" rod I picked up was cold rolled and I grabbed a stick of 3/8" but all they had was hot rolled.
 
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NUTTSGT

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How easy was it to use the HF bender? Worth the purchase?

Simple to use, might take a little bit of figuring where to hold the stock in order to get the bend in correct spot. However, for less than $35 out the door, yes, well worth it IMHO. Honestly, now that I have it, I wish I would have bought one years ago, beats the hell out of using the vise and hammer.


As always Jason, it's a pleasure to see you post. :rocker:
 
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