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Makings for another vise stand

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larry_g

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Damn, they got every mile out of that sprocket. In two of my vise stands I have just a straight bar across the opening and use 4 holes in the base. A round adapter with bolts in every hole is way overkill for a vise or grinder stand.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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royce

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Everybody knows what a I-beam is and why, so I guess you could call this a tri-beam.
I cut these tapered rips out of a piece of 16"x .375 wall pipe.
The base is 10" across the sides and the top is 6".
I'll cut a round plate to bolt to the sprocket and weld this column to it.
Yes, this sprocket is sure enough wore out.
I think I'll use 3 bolts to fasten the column to the sprocket.
I don't own any transfer punches, so I just lay out the bolt circle and step off the bolt holes with dividers.

Royce
 

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CNGsaves

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KS and OK
Turning out nice as expected.

For your next sprocket, I can envision a BIG **** spline axle !! :D
 

sanddan

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I like where you are going with this.

Using only 3 bolts for attachment makes perfect sense. You could also cut the heads off bolts the same size and tack weld them in the open holes. It would give a cool look without the extra work of drilling and tapping the holes.
 
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royce

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Got the base plate, top plate, and column cut this morning.
I plug welded 3 studs in the bottom plate to attach it, that should give a clean, seamless appearance to it.
I also canted the column a few degrees to give a bit of toe space.
The top plate is cut to the shape of a prentice #20.
Tomorrow, I aim to get the top plate dressed and finish the weld out.

Royce
 

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gahrajmahal

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I love when someone takes into mind the aesthetic aspect of something most would just use a plain pipe and square plate at the top and call it a day. Excellent job! Thanks for sharing.
 

larry_g

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Love the work here. Great idea on the Tri beam and adding the tilt.

lg
no neat sig line
 

drivesitfar

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Royce: i agree with the others your creativity and skills are AWESOME. i'm not sure how you put the bolts in under the bottom plate, but love the clean look you created. if it's going to be strong and steady once you put that nice old Prentiss vise on it then i'll give you another WELL DONE SIR!!

BTW how many vises do you own? i've seen about a dozen that are in my top 20 of vises to own as you make stands and benches for them. GOOD STUFF

cheers
 

G-ManBart

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I bought two dozer sprockets back in April with the same basic idea, except I had a section of 10" I beam for the upright. They weigh 105lbs each, so the whole stand will be 300lbs+ when I'm done.

Love the tai-beam idea!

 
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royce

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Thanks to all for the kind words, here's the final pics.

Drives, more than 10 and less than 30

Royce
 

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drivesitfar

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Royce: i had my doubts when you showed us the parts, but i think i like this stand vise combo maybe even more than your fire hydrant vise stands.

do you use BLO to put the shine on your stuff or do tell?

WELL DONE!!

isn't the Prentiss #20 swivel jaw vise about 100 years old and a 5 inch wide jaw that weighs about 75 pounds? nice vise too.
 
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zkling

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Neat idea. FYI that shape cross sectional is called a deltoid or tricuspoid. You seldom see them in structural pieces are they offer little benefit while being difficult to manufacture.
 
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royce

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Royce: i had my doubts when you showed us the parts, but i think i like this stand vise combo maybe even more than your fire hydrant vise stands.

do you use BLO to put the shine on your stuff or do tell?

WELL DONE!!

isn't the Prentiss #20 swivel jaw vise about 100 years old and a 5 inch wide jaw that weighs about 75 pounds? nice vise too.

Drives,
The finish on this one is beeswax, linseed oil and naphtha applied hot.

I don't know how old or how much this vise weighs and I believe the jaws are 4-1/2", but would need to measure them to be sure.

Thank you and I too am quite happy about the way this stand turned out.

Royce
 
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royce

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Neat idea. FYI that shape cross sectional is called a deltoid or tricuspoid. You seldom see them in structural pieces are they offer little benefit while being difficult to manufacture.

Thanks zkling,
I learned two new words today, just don't ask me to spell or remember them!!!

Royce
 

drivesitfar

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Royce: if you apply the mixture hot does it cure quicker? also are how are you heating it up? stove in your house or do you have a shop oven or microwave? or maybe you just put in a can and use your torch.

i love the naked steel look and looking for an easier way to put my BLO on my STUFF than just with a rag.

I have a nice Prentiss #20 somewhere, but not sure exactly where and thought it was 5 inch wide jaw. in any case a great vise and looks even better on your stand.

whatever those words ZK used to describe the shape of steel you made are new to me too.
 
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royce

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Royce: if you apply the mixture hot does it cure quicker? also are how are you heating it up? stove in your house or do you have a shop oven or microwave? or maybe you just put in a can and use your torch.

i love the naked steel look and looking for an easier way to put my BLO on my STUFF than just with a rag.

I have a nice Prentiss #20 somewhere, but not sure exactly where and thought it was 5 inch wide jaw. in any case a great vise and looks even better on your stand.

whatever those words ZK used to describe the shape of steel you made are new to me too.
Drives,
Yes, heat the work up till when you spit on it it it flashes to steam, it will cure quicker.
I heat the mixture in a coffee can on a gas cooker, just have a lid ready,because it will catch on fire.
I don't think there is anything easier than a oil finish applied with a rag.
Royce
 

G-ManBart

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Drives,
Yes, heat the work up till when you spit on it it it flashes to steam, it will cure quicker.
I heat the mixture in a coffee can on a gas cooker, just have a lid ready,because it will catch on fire.
I don't think there is anything easier than a oil finish applied with a rag.
Royce

What proportions of Linseed oil, beeswax and naphtha do you use? It certainly looks nice when it's finished!
 
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royce

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What proportions of Linseed oil, beeswax and naphtha do you use? It certainly looks nice when it's finished!

G-Man,
I don't measure, maybe 1 part wax, 3 parts oil, 1 part thinner.
I don't think the proportions or oil type matters to much, but the heat and beeswax do seem to help with keeping corrosion at bay.

Royce
 

G-ManBart

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G-Man,
I don't measure, maybe 1 part wax, 3 parts oil, 1 part thinner.
I don't think the proportions or oil type matters to much, but the heat and beeswax do seem to help with keeping corrosion at bay.

Royce

Thanks!
 

drivesitfar

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Royce: thanks for the 411 on the Beeswax mix and application. just curious once you have the original coating on how often do you need to re apply and do you just wipe on the following coats without heating them up?

i really can't believe how good that stand looks and maybe the cool old Prentiss #20 swivel jaw vise helps.
 
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royce

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Royce: thanks for the 411 on the Beeswax mix and application. just curious once you have the original coating on how often do you need to re apply and do you just wipe on the following coats without heating them up?

i really can't believe how good that stand looks and maybe the cool old Prentiss #20 swivel jaw vise helps.

Thanks all

Drives,
Warm works the best
Reapplication hinges on environment;
Heat,humidity,salt air and UV rays
Royce
 

BFBOB

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Everybody knows what a I-beam is and why, so I guess you could call this a tri-beam.
I cut these tapered rips out of a piece of 16"x .375 wall pipe.
The base is 10" across the sides and the top is 6".

Royce

Just because editing is so much easier than writing ...
If you had turned the convex sides of your tri-beam outward, it would look just like a Wankel rotor. A really small diameter, wiiiiiddde Wankel rotor.
 
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royce

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There is something about this stand that I can't put my finger on, that I find pleasing to the eye, too.
Thanks, Bagged, Tuna, BFBOB and all.

Royce
 
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