Marine heat shrink **** connectors

[sierradmax]

Do you trust them?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3NBTJ9/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I've been using them and adding additional heat shrink on the outside of them after the solder has melted. I'm curious about the longevity and use in automotive application with GXL wire.

 

[mrjaw14]

I use regular heat-shrink **** connectors. I've never used the solder kind. I think the solder type is probably ok. If it's got the hot melt glue in it and you see it come out the ends I don't think there's a need for supplemental heat shrink. I prefer the crimp kind because it doesn't rely on the wire getting hot enough to take solder. I just have to crimp and heat it enough to melt the glue and shrink it.

No matter what, I'd be careful to use a proper heat shrink air nozzle, such as a butane torch extension with the curved tip on it rather than an open flame from a lighter. here's a picture of the type of kit I'm talking about. I use the long extension and the curved extension together. You can buy those separately and work on torches with the same shape head. Dremel also makes a similar kit that's cheaper than the power probe one. I think the heat shrink attachments are the most important consideration no matter what type of heat shrink splice you use

 

[matt_i]

I use either Panduit or Ancor. Which are not solder-seals. But have yet to let me down in vehicle/tractor/trailer apps.

 

[LeeG]

I use these with this crimp tool from Astro Pneumatic.

I'm not sure I would trust the ones you linked in an automotive environment.

 

[trashmanssd]

I love those connectors. The colored part is the glue and solder in the middle. Just got to get them hot enough to melt without melting the wire jacket, aim the heat at the middle. I put one on a 14 gauge wire and put it in the vice and wrapped around my hand and I could not pull them apart. As long as you have the room on the wire to slide the up on side and twist the wires together those are the way to go. I still use regular pinch and heat shrink connectors for tight spots or double jacketed wires that I can't slide one those up though.

 

[matt_i]

Are there concerns that if the wire gets hot due to short, unintended overload (etc) that the solder can melt out and go open circuit "?

 

[rmack898]

The only thing I use in the marine environment is Ancor, but these look interesting.

I'd like to do some side by side testing to see how they actually work.

 

[ducksface]

https://www.target.com/p/tulip-20ct...J4n7p7zyJx1v1feLoENCMwYBGw3qcOSxoCQWEQAvD_BwE

I have no info on a particular crimp-on, but I can tell you I've sealed electrical connections on dive and
underwater survey type equipment with it for 20ish years and haven't had a leak or failure even at 600ft deep.

 

[sierradmax]

Here's a decent video. We all wish that fixing wires was this easy and not shoulder deep in an engine compartment soldering 1 wire within a 12 wire harness!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Do you trust them?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3NBTJ9/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I've been using them and adding additional heat shrink on the outside of them after the solder has melted. I'm curious about the longevity and use in automotive application with GXL wire.

I don't trust the ones with solder on the inside. That solder melts at a very low temp and is know to crack within a year or two.

 

[rollinlower]

Iv tried them, and was not satisfied with the connection or the finish, I cut them back out and soldered correctly

 

[Negen]

I used these on two boats one fresh water and one run about boat that I use for crabbing and squiding in the sound. I use a good bit of flux and a in stranded 16gauge tinned wire. Some times I also use 14 gauge. In some situations I add a line of very thin solder about same size that's it's there I kinda just shove it in with the wires. I use a pen style portable solder iron with the torch tip .

I would trust these in recreational use in shore or near shore marine use. If applied correctly and tested regularly. If I were to go off shore I would be more of a perfectionist and everything would be perfectly over built. Boats for the most part do not rattle as much as auto applications so I am not sure if the cracking thing still is a issue.


The other option is the types of connections that are crimps with heat shrink same concept but with a crimp instead of a solder.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[mrjaw14]

FWIW, crimp is not subject to vibration concerns or cracking solder

 

[bpjr]

For cars maybe but...the ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) says crimp only and no solder. **** marine surveyors will note corrective action if soldered joints are found.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

For cars maybe but...the ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) says crimp only and no solder. **** marine surveyors will note corrective action if soldered joints are found.

This is what I follow for off-road race truck applications. No solder due to vibration.

With that being said, everything is either WeatherPack or Deutsch anyway.