rburke65
Well-known member
I vote fir white metal. Lighter than OSB and ya shoot your screws in and your done!
Materials for garage ceiling--Metal VS 4x8 panels
- Thread starter birdman1
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nolimits76
Well-known member
I know the original post is dead....but thought I'd clarify the original prices:
1. Metal panels @ 1.50 per LF for a 3' wide panel ($1.50/(3*1)) = $0.50 per square foot
2. OSB 4x8 sheets @ 7.00 each ($7/(4*8)) = $0.22 per square foot
No pricing was given on paint & primer. It will vary a little depending on brands of primer & paint used. I never get the SF recommendations on the can, but have painted OSB and know it ***** in the primer & paint.
End of the day, I think it's a wash price wise on materials. Labor is more expensive with OSB when you factor weight/time to handle plus the time to prime & paint. Granted, it will be a self-install, but theoretically that is time you could do a different project or something else you wanted.
I don't really care for either solution, but if forced to choose I would rather do the metal panels myself. Realistically I might opt for gyp board hung in-place w/o tape & mud assuming that is the limiting factor.
Also sound acoustics will be better with the sheetrock. Generally speaking the harder the surface, the louder the environment. That is why a house with carpet is quieter and has less hard sounds than one with hardwoods. This happens on all surfaces (ceiling, walls, floors, etc) where sound bounces. If you walk in a sports stadium or commercial buildings you might notice "sound panels" to help take away the harsh sounds. Sounds silly but it can be a fairly big deal. Someone mentioned using perforated panels to let the sound die into the insulation. That may work, I haven't tried, but it makes sense.
1. Metal panels @ 1.50 per LF for a 3' wide panel ($1.50/(3*1)) = $0.50 per square foot
2. OSB 4x8 sheets @ 7.00 each ($7/(4*8)) = $0.22 per square foot
No pricing was given on paint & primer. It will vary a little depending on brands of primer & paint used. I never get the SF recommendations on the can, but have painted OSB and know it ***** in the primer & paint.
End of the day, I think it's a wash price wise on materials. Labor is more expensive with OSB when you factor weight/time to handle plus the time to prime & paint. Granted, it will be a self-install, but theoretically that is time you could do a different project or something else you wanted.
I don't really care for either solution, but if forced to choose I would rather do the metal panels myself. Realistically I might opt for gyp board hung in-place w/o tape & mud assuming that is the limiting factor.
Also sound acoustics will be better with the sheetrock. Generally speaking the harder the surface, the louder the environment. That is why a house with carpet is quieter and has less hard sounds than one with hardwoods. This happens on all surfaces (ceiling, walls, floors, etc) where sound bounces. If you walk in a sports stadium or commercial buildings you might notice "sound panels" to help take away the harsh sounds. Sounds silly but it can be a fairly big deal. Someone mentioned using perforated panels to let the sound die into the insulation. That may work, I haven't tried, but it makes sense.
I really like the metal, and would have went that route, but my barn had OSB when i bought the house. Its nice running wire, etc in the attic and not worrying as much about denting it,etc. I have a small section of drywall ceiling above my main light switches. I had to get above that area to run a new wire, light and switch, and i had to lay down in the eave area.. drywall has a crack now.. and i was careful.
78C-10
Banned
I wasn't sure if I should have started a new thread or not, but this thread brings up a question for my ceiling. I have a 30x40 pole barn with the trusses 8' on center. I think I am going with the metal panels but I would have to run 8' 2x4's between the trusses and my concerns are if the trusses will be able to handle the weight of the metal, insulation, and the 2x4's without sagging in the middle and would the 8' 2x4's be able to handle the weight? Thank you
ms fowler
Well-known member
I am intrigued by the use of the corrugated plastic panels as ceiling in a garage.
Is there any fresh experience, pro or con?
Is there any fresh experience, pro or con?
I used "interior" tin on the ceiling. It is same gauge as external stuff, but the paint is not UV resistant. I had my trusses installed on 4' centers for easier construction.
Our local construction supply will cut the metal down to the exact size you need, so very little waste. I am very happy with the looks.
I used OSB on the walls instead of tin as I was concerned about noise. The shop has a dyno, machining equipment, air grinders and tools running, etc. I did not want to have to install ear plugs if I dropped a screwdriver! HA
I also used a drywall jack to lift it in place. I did it all by myself. 12' and 16' pieces.
Drywall is heavy, expensive, WAY MORE WORK, etc. IMO It's a shop, not a grandfather clock.
Good luck.
Wags
Our local construction supply will cut the metal down to the exact size you need, so very little waste. I am very happy with the looks.
I used OSB on the walls instead of tin as I was concerned about noise. The shop has a dyno, machining equipment, air grinders and tools running, etc. I did not want to have to install ear plugs if I dropped a screwdriver! HA
I also used a drywall jack to lift it in place. I did it all by myself. 12' and 16' pieces.
Drywall is heavy, expensive, WAY MORE WORK, etc. IMO It's a shop, not a grandfather clock.
Good luck.
Wags
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Should not be an issue. The tin can span a 4' span without sagging. I am positive, as this is what I did between trusses. I then spray foam open cell insulation on top. I assume that helps with strength.
Wags
I'm on the North end of Colorado Springs. Any suggestions for buying interior metal for the ceiling of my 40x56 pole barn ? (There's no Menard's around here.) I'm about ready to "bite the bullet" and spend the cash, but not sure where to go. Menard's can ship it, but it adds a bit to the cost...
Maybe someone has bought some locally ? I've got a 16' flat bed trailer, so I could go pick it up. Thanks for any suggestions...
Also trusses are 4' on center. I was planning to install vapor barrier and blow in insulation on top. It sure looks like the metal would seal well, is a barrier still required ?
Maybe someone has bought some locally ? I've got a 16' flat bed trailer, so I could go pick it up. Thanks for any suggestions...
Also trusses are 4' on center. I was planning to install vapor barrier and blow in insulation on top. It sure looks like the metal would seal well, is a barrier still required ?
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I got mine from a local "lumber yard". Their prices were better than anyone. They do tons of building tin, so cut to length was a total non issue.
Right now, price should be back down, as steel is cheap again.
I live in small town area, so I asked buddies where to buy.
I'd check the lumber yards, or call a barn builder near you and see where they get it.
As some have sated, seconds are also available. I wasn't interested in searching for that, though.
Wags
cozy200305
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I know this is super old but hoping you're still around. I am about to use corrugated on my garage ceiling but I keep hearing I need to install foil faced insulation between my rafters before doing so. I live in Michigan.
I keep hearing from buddies that there will be condensation if I don't use that foil faced insulation board. I really don't want too to be honest.
Thoughts?
Yours looks great btw
I keep hearing from buddies that there will be condensation if I don't use that foil faced insulation board. I really don't want too to be honest.
Thoughts?
Yours looks great btw
So, if I understand what you are saying....
You have none of the "bubble wrap" type insulation (really just a vapor barrier) up already? (between the top of the truss and the tin) This is most common around here... as it keeps your roof from "raining".
I put the tin directly to the bottom of the trusses. I then had open cell foam sprayed on top of the tin... It was comparatively priced to using the blown in paper stuff... AND I did not have to touch a thing.
IF you have nothing up at all..... are you planning on heating or cooling the space?
IF you have nothing, I would put up the 1/4" foam board they commonly use under siding.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...1-Fanfold-Insulation-Sheathing-21UM/100320301
This will prevent condensation on your tin. IF you want to insulate later, you have the vapor barrier basically.
Wags
Thanks... I am happy with how mine turned out.
If you want any tech tips... just ask or pm me.
You have none of the "bubble wrap" type insulation (really just a vapor barrier) up already? (between the top of the truss and the tin) This is most common around here... as it keeps your roof from "raining".
I put the tin directly to the bottom of the trusses. I then had open cell foam sprayed on top of the tin... It was comparatively priced to using the blown in paper stuff... AND I did not have to touch a thing.
IF you have nothing up at all..... are you planning on heating or cooling the space?
IF you have nothing, I would put up the 1/4" foam board they commonly use under siding.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...1-Fanfold-Insulation-Sheathing-21UM/100320301
This will prevent condensation on your tin. IF you want to insulate later, you have the vapor barrier basically.
Wags
Thanks... I am happy with how mine turned out.
If you want any tech tips... just ask or pm me.
Starting my steel ceiling and walls tomorrow. Started a thread about it. The ceiling has 6" fiberglass batt insulation. Would it be wise to put plastic up on the trusses before i do the ceiling for vapor barrier? The garage is heated.
Thanks
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Thanks
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rburke65
Well-known member
I stuffed 2 1/2" of styrofoam between my truss cavities, the Visqueen, then the metal liner panels, and the blown Fiberglas on top of the styrofoam. I'm in Ohio.
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jomobco
Well-known member
Put a 2x4 between the rafters and mount to it.
Radix2
Well-known member
Just get some cellulose blown on top of it. Are you planning on insulating at all?
cozy200305
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I wasn't sure about insulating to be honest. I talked with a friend who did what you said to do. He put corrugated steel on his garage ceiling then blew insulation on top of it. He said it falls between the cracks here and there but nothing major
He basically said I needed some type of vapor barrier between the metal and the attic space above it, to reduce condensation.
I am not opposed to installing the foil faced insulation boards between the rafters before installing the metal but i just wasn't sure if it was necessary.
I do NOT want condensation dripping from the metal ceiling though.
Blowing insulation seems faster but is it more expensive? I found the foil faced boards for like 10 bucks per 4x8 sheet. Granted I would have to cut each sheet to fit between the rafters and it will take more time.
Kinda just trying to feel my way through it haha
cozy200305
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So you just used styrofoam? Or the rigid insulation panels? then you stapled visqueen between the metal and the rafters?
cozy200305
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So as of now it's just open rafters. Nothing in between or on them at all. I was going to install the corrugated metal on the rafters and call it a day until I discovered I needed some type of "vapor barrier" to prevent condensation.
So I am trying to find something relatively easy to get the tin up quickly (winter is coming) and then maybe insulate later? I do NOT plan on cooling the space, but I may install a small ventless wall heater in case I need to be out there in the winter months for any extended time.
So what you're saying is to install rigid foam boards between the rafters or just lay it on top of the metal as I'm screwing each metal sheet to the rafter?
Would tacking up a visqueen plastic sheeting material then installing the metal work until I could get something blown in there?
Thanks again I might bug you for a while haha
Radix2
Well-known member
Condensation comes from having a cold surface and warm moist air.
In an uninsulated building this would be a warm summer morning after a cool night before surfaces have warmed up. For a conditioned building, this would be a warm room with moisture from breathing, working, cooking, ect. and a surface not insulated enough from the cold outdoors.
Not much can be done for the first case except keep the moist outside air out or keep the inside warm above the dew point.
For the second case, you need insulation such that the interior surface stays warm rather than following the outside temperature.
Visqueen has nothing to do with any of this. The purpose of the vapor barrier is to keep the warm moist air confined to the room instead of going into the attic and condensing on the underside of the cold roof sheathing. The metal itself is a vapor barrier, the issue is joints and edges which would take very detailed sealing and taping to make effective. Unlike a house which has a lot of moisture generated in it all the time, garages are dryer unless there is a lot of water coming from some place. So I don't see much value in putting plastic on top of the metal unless you are going to do extensive sealing around the edges, channels, ect. And have a special situation. I also don't like two vapor barriers sitting on top of each other which can trap moisture and prevent drying.
Cellulose is better than Fiberglas for stopping air movement and to me adequate for keeping the airflow into the attic down. It will fill the small voids and corners where the air wants to go.
Blown in insulation is a much much less expensive than styrofoam and more practical to get a decent r value like R-30-50 in the ceiling.
In an uninsulated building this would be a warm summer morning after a cool night before surfaces have warmed up. For a conditioned building, this would be a warm room with moisture from breathing, working, cooking, ect. and a surface not insulated enough from the cold outdoors.
Not much can be done for the first case except keep the moist outside air out or keep the inside warm above the dew point.
For the second case, you need insulation such that the interior surface stays warm rather than following the outside temperature.
Visqueen has nothing to do with any of this. The purpose of the vapor barrier is to keep the warm moist air confined to the room instead of going into the attic and condensing on the underside of the cold roof sheathing. The metal itself is a vapor barrier, the issue is joints and edges which would take very detailed sealing and taping to make effective. Unlike a house which has a lot of moisture generated in it all the time, garages are dryer unless there is a lot of water coming from some place. So I don't see much value in putting plastic on top of the metal unless you are going to do extensive sealing around the edges, channels, ect. And have a special situation. I also don't like two vapor barriers sitting on top of each other which can trap moisture and prevent drying.
Cellulose is better than Fiberglas for stopping air movement and to me adequate for keeping the airflow into the attic down. It will fill the small voids and corners where the air wants to go.
Blown in insulation is a much much less expensive than styrofoam and more practical to get a decent r value like R-30-50 in the ceiling.
I would use the 1/4" foam board. Did the link work? It is 8' w x 40' long. Easy to work with. I would staple it to the trusses, then screw right through it.
IF you don't plan on heating or cooling it, then you are wasting your time I'd suspect.
I still would put up plastic. It won't hurt. Cheap, pretty easy. It might serve some unforeseen future need.
I screwed my tin directly to the bottom of the trusses. I knew I was doing foam insulation over that, so, I had my insulation, vapor barrier issue taken care of.
PLUS, you would be surprised how much that little 1/4" will keep the heat from the roof out of your shop.
Wags
chadharter
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My garage currently has a drywall ceiling that finished by the previous home owner. Unfortunately, they didn't know what they were doing with drywall. All of the drywall tape is coming down and it is a mess. I'm seeking advice. I would like to put up metal on the ceiling. Any issues with me just putting the metal up over the existing ceiling and using long enough screws to extend through the metal and drywall into the wood on the bottom of the ceiling joists? I really don't want to mess with taking it all down first.
Unless your ceiling is really bad, your best/least expensive option would be to fix the tape and finish the ceiling. You are looking at a lot of expense in materials alone to put up metal. You would need to screw into the joists if you did. If you missed a joist here or there it wouldn't make that much difference.
I went through this same decision and went with metal. I'm in the process of putting it up now and, so far, am happy with the choice. I bought a drywall lift at HF as well as the metal shears and it has made life pretty easy doing it all by myself.
Bottlecapdigger
Well-known member
I read here on another post about cell phone service and wi-fi service being an issue with the interior walls and ceiling of a shop being lined with steel. Anyone have this problem? I'm leaning towards steel myself but may consider something else if this is an issue. BCD.
Metal buildings, or buildings with steel walls/ ceilings will block most signals... not totally.... but to make it damn near useless.
IF if is a frame building, osb... If it is a pole barn/ steel building you already have the issue.
Wags
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
I went a similar route but used 1/2" foil-faced polyisocyanurate instead of styrofoam (expanded polystyrene). I already had R13 fiberglass between the joists, so I've got about R16 total. The foil face reflects light really well, and it was really light which was a plus since my ceiling joists are only 2x4's. I still used my drywall lift to make it easier, and screwed it up with drywall screws and plastic cap washers. I know there's a fire code issue although the foil-face polyiso may not need to be covered, I'm not sure. I just wanted the least amount of weight on the ceiling, and it was fairly cheap and easy.
I wanted to go with metal but it was expensive. My walls are OSB/plywood and I wish I could've went with metal on those at times.
justanengineer
Well-known member
There's no issue with tin over drywall, most folks who want the tin look do both to get the necessary fire rating in attached garages.
chadharter
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Thank you for all the replies!
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I put Pro-Rib Steel from Menards on the 1000sf ceiling of my race shop. Very, very happy with it. There are two or three different products at Menards apparently based on thickness. Don't be afraid to buy the thinnest (and hence least expensive) like I did. My trusses are 24" on center and the installer screwed it up every 48". There is lots of insulation above it and there is NO sag. Quick installation, no painting. Mine is in white and it reflect light very well.
GYPSY400
Well-known member
I did white vinyl siding instead of 27 sheets of OSB
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bowtiguy
Well-known member
Has anyone reading this thread ever used soffit material on their interior ceilings?
I was recently walking through the Tampa airport and noticed a noise canceling style ceiling, I was amazed how quiet it was in the terminal considering how crowded it was over thanksgiving.
This was the closest match I could find.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pacific-12-in-x-144-in-White-Pebble-Soffit/50106928
Thinking about stapling a thin layer of woven insulation over the OSB of the ceiling follow by a product like this.
Pros -light weight, easy install, no painting required
- no cell phone interference
- noise cancelation??
Cons- cost ?
- insulation fibers coming through the holes & getting on cars?
Thoughts?
I was recently walking through the Tampa airport and noticed a noise canceling style ceiling, I was amazed how quiet it was in the terminal considering how crowded it was over thanksgiving.
This was the closest match I could find.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pacific-12-in-x-144-in-White-Pebble-Soffit/50106928
Thinking about stapling a thin layer of woven insulation over the OSB of the ceiling follow by a product like this.
Pros -light weight, easy install, no painting required
- no cell phone interference
- noise cancelation??
Cons- cost ?
- insulation fibers coming through the holes & getting on cars?
Thoughts?
If I was going to use the vinyl soffit I would get the stuff without the holes.. I used it as a cheap alternative to covering up really bad t1-11 siding on a couple of exterior walls. It looked pretty good. Only down sides I see could be sagging or you could easily puncture them if something like a pool cue hits it. I'm actually thinking of doing it in my garage with 11ft ceilings, but my roof joists are 24" on center, I'd need something to attach the soffit to so it doesn't sag. Flame resistance might be an issue as well.
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I used this, pricey, but was fairly quick and easy to do myself, http://www.alside.com/products/siding/soffit/beaded-vinyl-soffit/greenbriar-vintage-beaded-soffit/
I wouldn't put that vented up, due to your thoughts.
I wouldn't put that vented up, due to your thoughts.
Has anyone reading this thread ever used soffit material on their interior ceilings?
I was recently walking through the Tampa airport and noticed a noise canceling style ceiling, I was amazed how quiet it was in the terminal considering how crowded it was over thanksgiving.
This was the closest match I could find.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pacific-12-in-x-144-in-White-Pebble-Soffit/50106928
Thinking about stapling a thin layer of woven insulation over the OSB of the ceiling follow by a product like this.
Pros -light weight, easy install, no painting required
- no cell phone interference
- noise cancelation??
Cons- cost ?
- insulation fibers coming through the holes & getting on cars?
Thoughts?
Attachments
![20161206_164351[1].jpg](/forum/data/attachments/462/462194-42d0ee85440644dd3f470ce9f4ab0d24.jpg)
rburke65
Well-known member
I used a drywall lift to raise the panels, and a 10' step ladders. Did it myself with 13'4" ceilings. I was able to raise and position the panels, climb the ladder, final alignment and shoot the screws. DONE! No painting, joint compound, primer, 2 top coats, sanding. Screw n done. Love it. And, if you really needed to, you could remove a section to have access to above the ceiling.....do any magic, and reinstall the panel.
How far up do the drywall lifts lift the panels? I had assumed they only went to 10' or so. I have an unfinished drywall ceiling that is 13'6".