Matt's projects

[Fretters]

The saw has been plonked in what should hopefully be its permanent spot.

Decided to make a replacement tool shelf for it, now that I've refitted the leg rods. Had a piece of old wooden shelving which was just a nice size, so cut that down to size, stripped the thick white gloss it was covered in with a fairly strong caustic solution and now it's just had a few coats of raw Linseed oil applied, so waiting for that to finish soaking in before it gets fitted. The finish isn't perfect, as the paint has obviously affected the surface porosity in places, but it should do the job.

These two are both sides of the board. The white strip is the offcut showing what it looked like before being stripped.

Once I'd shaped it and profiled the long edges, (all done with the little hand plane to the lower right of it in the photo), and the Linseed applied.

It's not a trick of the camera the fact that it looks wider in the middle, btw. I tapered it at either end so that it could be inserted into position. It would have just jammed when trying to fit it if the width had been constant along the length. These are the rods the shelf will rest on.

 

[Fretters]

Made a new damper disc/washer today, and fitted a fresh screw and spring. It's a fairly simple arrangement with these.

Closed:

Open:

The old disc/washer is on the left. It had obviously seen better days.

Fitted back in the cylinder:

Opening and closing the gap between the disc and the bottom of the ball alters the restriction of oil flow through the holes, thereby changing the rate at which the assembly descends.

 

[Fretters]

Made some new shims for the slide assembly from 3mm ply.

Still ended up having to use a piece of gasket paper for one of the corners, as one was too thin and two wouldn't compress enough.

Shelf and shims fitted.

Went with putting the shelf on there, (though I'll be damned if I can think of any worthwhile use for it), simply to keep it in style with how the original advertising literature suggests it would have been from new.

Also picked up this little WT scrollsaw a week or two ago.

All stripped down now, and the body has had a couple of coats of paint. It's a bit the worse for wear, but nowt which shouldn't be sortable. With something like this, I have absolutely no qualms about altering it to improve over original, where necessary. The body and table castings are sound, which is the main thing.

 

[Fretters]

Finally decided to bite the bullet today and try a paint mixture I've been considering trying for a while. The synthetic enamel mixed with a bit of raw linseed oil and gum turpentine. Want to see how it fares with regards to drying time, separation, application and finished efficacy. It's been applied as a final coat to the table and top cover for that scrollsaw above, so by tomorrow at the latest I should have a decent indication of drying time differences to straight enamel. Seems to mix well enough initially, and application is good. Had to thicken the mix somewhat with more paint as the initial mix was too runny. It applies nicely though, just like warmed enamel, and it appears to flow nicely, even on smooth surfaces. If it works, it could be a Godsend with regards to minimising brush marks on smooth surfaces.

Worst case scenario, I end up stripping the pieces and starting afresh. Fingers crossed though that it goes smoothly. Decided that unless I actually gave it a shot, I was never going to know one way or the other.

 

[drivesitfar]

if shipping wasn't so much i'd have you ship me a bottle of your modified mixture once you have tweaked it and paint one of my big vises with it. i'm not sure i'll ever get tired of your burgundy (or what do you call it) paint on all your old cast iron gems.

keep up the great work.

 

[Fretters]

I refer to it as burgundy too. It's proper name is wine red. This stuff could turn out to be a total disaster as yet, but at least it's gone quite tacky already, which is a fairly good sign. It's not just remaining sopping wet.

 

[Fretters]

This is one of the pieces which has had the synth/oil paint mix applied.

Before painting.

After a coat of normal synth with a second coat of synth/oil mix.

It definetely seems to smooth the finish out with the oil in there. The underside of the table had the same treatment.

Btw, I'm not responsible for that filler on the spring cover. That was already there. I've just sanded it down somewhat to get it more shapely and smoother than it was originally. Not sure whether some previous owner has damaged the top of that cover in the past or whether the castings were just that iffy from the factory.

 

[gus1962]

This is interesting. I'm impressed with the excellent technical stuff you did.

 

[Fretters]

Cheers.

This is a piece which has been coated with that oil/paint mix from its virgin state. No primer, as per usual.

Had that piece knocking about for ages. I did paint it first around several years or so ago, using primer and dark blue paint, but detested the finish from day one. That was also around the time I stopped using primer. Just never liked the way primer sanitises the look of rough cast, due to it being such a thick layer. So, it's been stripped clean and repainted. Might finally get it finished off this time around.

 

[Fretters]

This is how that piece above looked first time around when I painted it, (apologies for the fuzzy photo).

I was honestly glad to get shut of that finish.

 

[Fretters]

Well, I'm having a shift round in the shed at the moment and finally decided to remove the rusted solid shaft on the large Corona drill whilst I was moving it around. It's only taken me around three years to get round to it. Anyhows, finally got that freed and removed, but it was this piece which surprised me somewhat. Now that I can actually stand the column upright due to it being completely stripped and lighter in weight, I could finally get the spindle counterweight out. I'd been expecting something around a foot long maximum.

It measures up at 26" long excluding the chain, and 2-1/2" diameter. They weren't taking any chances on that not being heavy enough.

 

[jakemac]

I hear that Outlaw has a few spare round tuits if you need one.

 

[Fretters]

I hear that Outlaw has a few spare round tuits if you need one.

Not sure if it was by design else luck, (I'm guessing the former, as Pollards design and workmanship was pretty much exemplary on everything I've seen of theirs so far), but the overall balance of this column is practically perfect.

No base, obviously, yet that thing is well balanced and quite stable as is, with absolutely no inclination to tip in any direction. Even if I never get her finished, she'll make one hell of a shed ornament.

 

[drivesitfar]

Matt: happy to hear the boiled linseed oil and paint mixture you made is working out great. i'm getting anxious to start restoring a few of my old cast iron vises and tools soon and for now i'm planning on putting boiled linseed on most of them thanks to you and Jake.

now about the DP piece you have sitting in your shed. do you have all the parts to finish it or is that part of the project you have in your future by finding those? it looks pretty cool just sitting there, but i'd hate to bump into it and have it land on one of my gems.

take care and always like looking at your projects and workmanship.

 

[Fretters]

You want to get yourself working on those sooner rather than later DIF. The longer you leave them, the bigger the pile of things you have to sort will become.

Aye, I have all of the parts for it. It was mostly stripped when it first came here, but that driveshaft was so damned stubborn it just got left for a more opportune moment, which ended up being nigh on four years down the line. There was no point shifting it round half the workshop and not getting it out though, I thought. I did end up resorting to the 2-1/2lb lump hammer directly onto the shaft end in the end. Owt else just absorbed too much force from the blows for it to work, so had to **** up the fact that there'd be some slight mushrooming and file that away before removing the shaft.

I've not left it stood upright like that, btw. I wouldn't tempt fate like that. I just did that to see if I could finally manage to lift it alone without the extra weight on there, as it's the only piece I've been unable to lift unaided upto just. I was having one of those stubborn butch moments.

 

[Fretters]

Decided I was going to make a little stand for the flypress the other day. It didn't happen. Ended up becoming a little vice bench instead.

As you'll note, the flypress is still sat on the floor. The Parkinson's Handy vice at least has a spot now though. Thinking of making a base for the flypress with this instead.

It's an old cast iron water tank. Corroded, (which isn't surprising considering it's age, coupled with the fact that the last thirty or forty years or so it has been sat outside in an orchard), but still sound. Size wise, it's pretty much a perfect size, being around 2" larger all ways round than the press base. I'm thinking that fettled slightly, filled with sand to stop any ringing and then fitting a wooden top to sit the press on could end up with it being a pleasing base.

 

[Fretters]

Old grease puts some glues to shame for tenacity. Stripped the ram assembly on this flypress so that I can give it a clean up and get rid of all of the old, claggy grease. I've left the bronze nut in place and will clean that up in-situ rather than risking damage trying to remove it. The ram parts during & after disassembly. Just need to attack the parts with the kerosene & brush/rag now.

The overall condition of the nut seems quite good. No apparent excess wear on the thread. The coupling for the screw and ram.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: when you take that brush with the mineral spirits to that old grease are you doing that job outside or in a bucket to keep the mess contained?

your burgundy Parkinson looks great mounted to your stand you made for the press.

i can't tell how big that cast iron tub is that you are going to make into a stand, but i'm more curious if you are going to de rust it and take it down to bare steel. and how you plan to do that?

i remember we were talking a while back about doing electrolysis in a cast iron container. would that tub be a good candidate to give that idea a try or are you done with metal containers after the washtub failure?

one more thing. when you take those old steel tool apart do you ever use a torch or heat or just some of that old school hand strength?

 

[Fretters]

Fretters: when you take that brush with the mineral spirits to that old grease are you doing that job outside or in a bucket to keep the mess contained?

I try to do brushing outside due to the inevitable splatter. If it's something which is too large or heavy to be lugging around though, I'll do it inside and just go steady with the brush else use a rag.

i can't tell how big that cast iron tub is that you are going to make into a stand, but i'm more curious if you are going to de rust it and take it down to bare steel. and how you plan to do that?

Approx. dimensions of that tank are 24"x14"x14". I'm thinking I'll likely leave it as is. Haven't decided for definite one way or the other as yet though.

i remember we were talking a while back about doing electrolysis in a cast iron container. would that tub be a good candidate to give that idea a try or are you done with metal containers after the washtub failure?

Giving that idea a miss. I'd feel guilty as hell eroding a cast iron container. I have started using scraps of cast iron in the main vat as the anodes now though. It does seem to have a long lifespan compared to steel.

one more thing. when you take those old steel tool apart do you ever use a torch or heat or just some of that old school hand strength?

Nah, no heat. Just use the appropriate tool and grunt, with a bit of patience added if needed.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: as usual i always learn something asking you a question. so scrap or broken cast works better than rebar or steel plate? you my friend are a cast iron purist trying to save that old cast iron tub or anything cast iron for that matter.

i picked up a few cans of regular linseed oil at a sale last week. will that work like the boiled version except maybe just needs a bit more drying time or what is the difference?

 

[Fretters]

Fretters: as usual i always learn something asking you a question. so scrap or broken cast works better than rebar or steel plate?

The pieces I have in the vat have been in there for a good few months now and still have plenty of meat left on them. It's a lattice top from one of those modern import garden tables, which the chap next door gave me, (he only had the top. No legs or anything else, for some weird reason ), so that got sacrificed with it being neither anything special nor old. Broke it in half with the sledgehammer, and I've placed the halves at both ends of the vat. There's been a good few pieces done in the vat since they went in, and I'd be surprised if they've lost any more than an eighth at most of their original mass so far, judging by eye. Compared to using something like steel plate, there's no comparison, IMHO. I'd have used a lot more in plate for the same amount of time/work.

you my friend are a cast iron purist trying to save that old cast iron tub or anything cast iron for that matter.

That tank is likely even older than my oldest piece of machinery, gauging by where it came from, so it just seems criminal to risk destroying it when it has survived for that long. That's why I thought it might be fitting to use it with the machinery. Even as corroded as it is, there's still a lot of sound metal in that tank. Even I can only just carry it for short distances, it's that heavy, and it's not as if I'm unused to carrying heavy kit, as you can likely imagine. Nearly gave myself a hernia ******* that into and out of the truck, when I picked it up.

i picked up a few cans of regular linseed oil at a sale last week. will that work like the boiled version except maybe just needs a bit more drying time or what is the difference?

It's mainly just the drying time which differs. I thin mine with gum turpentine for use, so as to apply a thinner coat. You could also add some Japan driers to it to make it behave more like boiled, if you want to.

 

[Fretters]

Decided to go with that cast tank for the base/stand. Coated it with Linseed externally.

It's had a coat of engine oil on the inside. Cut a piece of 3/4" MDF for a snug push fit into the tank:

and drilled that so I could screw battens to it.

The battens overlap the edges by approx. 3/4" all way round. The press before cleaning and degreasing, after degreasing and then with a layer of Linseed on it and sat on the base.

I've not gone for derusting and repainting with this. It honestly isn't rusty enough, IMHO, to warrant removing the original appearance.

Edit: It's not as wonky as it appears in that last photo. The lens fish eye effect and a skewiff shot make it look well off straight.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: that old press is awesome. what is it rated for? i like your stand and wondering if making a little dolly type cart to move it around if you need to might help in your space? i'd be a tad worried that those 1/2 inch boards with the backing over the hole in your tub stand might not be sturdy enough, but i'm sure you have that figured out already. even putting a piece of 4 x 4 under the middle of the press under the boards inside the tub might relieve my worries.

by the way does it rain all winter in your area sort of like Seattle or do you get a bit of snow too?

Happy new year and i'm hoping to learn a few more words of "OLD" English this year as I did in 2014.

 

[Fretters]

Not sure what tonnage it is, to be honest. I know someone who has a similar size S&B one. Keep meaning to check the model number of that so that I can roughly gauge the tonnage, but I have the memory span of a goldfish. Keep forgetting.

Those battens are 3"x2" planed, so should be ample. They're only 15-1/2" long, so should easily cope with the weight without bowing.

Weather wise, it's been constantly wet for around two or three months now. Can't remember the last time I saw a dry patch of soil. Snow wise, we had a few hours worth, Boxing Day night, but that's been all we've seen so far.

 

[Fretters]

Finally got around to removing the tool which was stuck solid in the ram. Tried various subtler methods first, but it wasn't having any of it. This method obviously wouldn't have been usable if the tool needed to be kept intact. The nubs of threaded rod were simply added to take up slack when the bolt ran out of travel.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: I guess i'm not sure what the part is that you removed. did you remove the cylinder part with the square base or the little rod? sorry for the maybe obvious question, but I've never taken one apart.

you mentioned pouring lead to make new jaws for a beat up vise on the vise thread. have you actually done that? can you show how you would either on your thread here or on the Vise Repair 101 thread. of if you don't have an example handy maybe use your talent for words and describe how one would do that method?

as always i do like reading your posts and i'm sending my best wishes for a dry day or two for you (and me) this winter. we have hours at a time some days when it's not raining so hopefully you do too.


cheers

 

[Fretters]

Fretters: I guess i'm not sure what the part is that you removed. did you remove the cylinder part with the square base or the little rod? sorry for the maybe obvious question, but I've never taken one apart.

My previous description was a tad lacking in info. Apologies. That square plate with the round shank, (with a hole through it now), is the tool which slots into the end of the ram. They should normally just slip in and out, once the retaining bolt is loosened, but that one was jammed in there solid, so I had to drill through it, then tapped about the first inch of the hole and then the thin rod was dropped into the hole and a bolt put in and turned to push the thin rod through and against the end of the bore, hence forcing the tool out of the bore. This is the end of the ram where it was stuck.

you mentioned pouring lead to make new jaws for a beat up vise on the vise thread. have you actually done that? can you show how you would either on your thread here or on the Vise Repair 101 thread. of if you don't have an example handy maybe use your talent for words and describe how one would do that method?

Not got around to doing it myself as yet, (still have to decide which vice is getting the treatment as yet, and also need to get off my **** and actually do it ), but the advice I've been given on the subject is simply a case of making a form from some material which can be readily formed to shape and which can survive the temperature of molten lead, affix to the vice by whatever means is suitable/available and then pour the lead in. Something thin like a tin can would be a prime candidate for making the form/mould. The lead can easily be trimmed/filed afterwards to neaten it up a tad, if desired.

The other way is to cast the inserts off the vice by just making the forms in sand or such, pour and then drill and fit as you would a standard insert.

Pouring them insitu is likely the preferable method though. If they ever get to the stage where they're looking a bit knacked, it's easy enough to rip the lead off and redo them.

as always i do like reading your posts and i'm sending my best wishes for a dry day or two for you (and me) this winter. we have hours at a time some days when it's not raining so hopefully you do too.

The rain isn't totally constant over here either, but it's raining frequently enough that everything has been continuously sodden for knocking on a couple of months or more now. Can't remember the last time I saw dry soil. Got some hellish wind at the moment to contend with too.

 

[Fretters]

Forgot to add a photo of it's current state.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: i just noticed you moved your thread over to the vintage tool section. now we need to convince Jake and Nines to move theirs since i haven't seen either one of them work on anything newer than 1970.

now that i see your press pretty much together is there a wrench made to use on the to top to turn it or do you just turn it by hand? or does a regular crescent or end wrench work if you don't want to break a knuckle.

i think that is the first press I've seen where there is round hole at the base of it.

very nice and any idea of the age of yours??

I did actually think about what i was writing last night in that one sentence, but i'll never admit it there.

 

[Fretters]

Fretters: i just noticed you moved your thread over to the vintage tool section. now we need to convince Jake and Nines to move theirs since i haven't seen either one of them work on anything newer than 1970.

Aye, Ryan graciously moved it over for me earlier. Seeing as most of my stuff is either borderline antique else antique, this forum seemed most suitable for this thread.

now that i see your press pretty much together is there a wrench made to use on the to top to turn it or do you just turn it by hand?

If you look just to the right of the press, the handle is stood on the floor, leant up against the wall. That thing with the 80 or so degree bend in the arm. This is an old photo, from the place where I bought it from, of it with the handle installed. It's missing its weight(s) though, so I'll probably be having a lead melting session to make one at some point.

Barring the handle needing a quick kero scrub, she's done now. Finally refitted the last bolts and adjusted her for best clearance, and gave the bed a wipe over with oil now that the slight rust clumps have been scraped from it.

any idea of the age of yours??

Not got the faintest idea. The distributor, Buck & Hickman, have been around since early to mid 1800's, so it could be any time from then onwards. Brass plaque puts it pre 70's, (60's to 70's seems to be around the time aluminium took preference over brass), but that still leaves a fairly large window.

Still not even sure of manufacturer as yet either. Saw a vague reference to one with similar quirky design possibly being a Teil, but then saw another one where Buck & Hickman was actually cast on the frame, so they may have had some manufacturer producing these specifically for them. It's just a case of playing the patience game until I come across that nugget of info which'll give the game away.

I did actually think about what i was writing last night in that one sentence, but i'll never admit it there.

Top man.

 

[Fretters]

Well, they always say it's the little things in life which matter, and judging by how glad I am to have such a simple and small thing back in my workshop, I'd have to agree. Just a simple slat of wood, drilled for holding my needle and small files, but by eck, is it one thing I've sorely missed having since I did away with the last one.

Knocked up a holder for my screwdrivers too. Decide to do away with the other rack as it was a bit awkward and always seemed to get in the way. Just need to find somewhere to mount this now. All holes are 15mm. I've found that tends to be the best general size to cater to most screwdrivers.

 

[Fretters]

Had a new addition to the workshop yesterday. I'm no welder, not by any stretch of the imagination, but I had the chance of this unit so decided it was time to try and get to grips with ARC again.

It's only a 110A unit, but should be ample for my needs. It's an Oxford oil cooled ARC unit, with an additional dedicated output for a carbon arc torch, so once I either appropriate or make a carbon arc torch, and get some electrodes, I should also have the ability to braze again.

 

[dutchgray]

That's a nice welder Matt, one of my customers has a pair of the 300A versions in his workshop but only uses one of them.

 

[Fretters]

That's a nice welder Matt, one of my customers has a pair of the 300A versions in his workshop but only uses one of them.

I bet those are beefy looking units? Will those be 3 phase only, at that capacity, or are they 240V/440V units?

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: you'll be dangerous once you start brazing because there will not be a cast iron piece in England that won't be eligible to find it's way to your shop.

very cool and looking forward to your posts showing it in action or something that you've brazed.

i'm also learning how to weld and brazing is on my bucket list.

cheers and good luck

 

[dutchgray]

I bet those are beefy looking units? Will those be 3 phase only, at that capacity, or are they 240V/440V units?

Yes they are beefy, its about 2'6" by 2" by 18" I would say and according to the plate has 12 gallons of oil in it, I doubt 2 people could pick it up.
The one he uses is 3 phase but I haven't checked if its 240v also, the other one I have not looked at as its buried behind other stuff, he is lucky as he has a 1000kVA transformer on site so power is not a problem. I will try and get a pic. I tried to use 3/16 electrodes in it and they were too small for the holder.

 

[Fretters]

Yes they are beefy, its about 2'6" by 2" by 18" I would say and according to the plate has 12 gallons of oil in it, I doubt 2 people could pick it up.
The one he uses is 3 phase but I haven't checked if its 240v also, the other one I have not looked at as its buried behind other stuff, he is lucky as he has a 1000kVA transformer on site so power is not a problem. I will try and get a pic. I tried to use 3/16 electrodes in it and they were too small for the holder.

Those sound like absolute monsters.

 

[Fretters]

Fretters: you'll be dangerous once you start brazing because there will not be a cast iron piece in England that won't be eligible to find it's way to your shop.

very cool and looking forward to your posts showing it in action or something that you've brazed.

i'm also learning how to weld and brazing is on my bucket list.

cheers and good luck

It could be fun actually learning to braze with this thing. From what I've read and heard, carbon arc brazing can be akin to a black art.

 

[Craptain]

It could be fun actually learning to braze with this thing. From what I've read and heard, carbon arc brazing can be akin to a black art.

Oh it is!!! I have seen it done well...... And I have tried it.... But I cannot get it right myself so I stick to OA for brazing, and then only on smaller pieces. My attempts to Braze cast iron did not go well. My first electric rig was a a kit for use with a car battery and the carbon arc was one of the accessories. I ended up pitching the whole thing as almost useless.

But then again I also remember when the whole "art" of welding was a black art, and persistence has brought huge gains.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: so brazing is the "dark arts". I've seen some magical brazing jobs that were more like miracles because the part was better than before it broke, but now you are talking another tune.

good luck with whichever method you choose and i hope you have plans to build another shed out where the garden used to be to store all your ailing and broken cast iron items you'll now be able to bring home and then to bring back to life.