Max torque for a 3/8in socket
- Thread starter korn0307
- Start date
Dj.SammyOaks
Active member
130in lbs? ya 3/8 is fine. thats only 10ft lbs. if it was 130ft lbs then id go up to 1/2in
How old/rusty is your car? Do you have air tools for removal? You should be able to get the new hardware up to 130 with 3/8, but if you've got some bolts that started off at 130, they may give your 3/8 set a workout removing them if they are old and seized.
If you are regularly doing automotive suspension work, invest in a 1/2 set, it will be worth it.
If you are regularly doing automotive suspension work, invest in a 1/2 set, it will be worth it.
The car is a brand new (2015) with right under 2500miles. So the stock hardware shouldn't be too bad lol. I don't do automotive work often. Would I be better off grabbing a cheap set of HF or tekton 1/2in impact sockets, or just some craftsman 1/2in drive sockets?
1950mercury
Well-known member
You will be fine
Farmall450
Well-known member
+1 the torque wrench can obviously handle it and so can the socket. Getting it off may require a breaker bar but that's it.
honcho
Well-known member
I remember somewhere seeing a chart that gave torque value ranges for different drive sizes 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1" but it was just a guide. I searched for the old military standard (mil std) for hand tools since the ANSI/ASME standard isn't freely available but ended up at a bootleg pdf copy of the ASME standard. The standard for sockets is B 107.2
For example, the standard for a 3/8" drive 6 or 12 pt 3/4" inch (19mm) socket has a proof torque of 2200 lbf /in (pound force / inch, commonly called inch pounds or pound inch) which equates to a bit more than 183 foot-pounds.
the standard defines proof torque as: "When tested as specified, sockets and extensions shall withstand the proof torque specified in the applicable tables without failure or permanent deformation (set) that might affect the durability or serviceability of the wrenches." (ASME B107.2-2002)
So........depending on the size, 130 foot-pounds of torque is within the capability of 3/8, at least at 3/4" / 19mm. I suspect that many 3/8" drive sockets, ratchets and breaker bars are at that size are capability of handling even more torque. The ASME standard is the minimum requirement, not an absolute upper limit.
For example, the standard for a 3/8" drive 6 or 12 pt 3/4" inch (19mm) socket has a proof torque of 2200 lbf /in (pound force / inch, commonly called inch pounds or pound inch) which equates to a bit more than 183 foot-pounds.
the standard defines proof torque as: "When tested as specified, sockets and extensions shall withstand the proof torque specified in the applicable tables without failure or permanent deformation (set) that might affect the durability or serviceability of the wrenches." (ASME B107.2-2002)
So........depending on the size, 130 foot-pounds of torque is within the capability of 3/8, at least at 3/4" / 19mm. I suspect that many 3/8" drive sockets, ratchets and breaker bars are at that size are capability of handling even more torque. The ASME standard is the minimum requirement, not an absolute upper limit.
The bolts are 19mm and I have a breaker bar. Its a bit thicker than most of the other breaker bars I have seen. But its a cheapie. So I might just invest in a breaker bar I feel more confident in and at least a 19mm 1/2in drive socket. Just to be safe. I will be using a Gearwrench 1/2in drive 20-250ft lb torque wrench.
I appreciate all the help! Im always apprehensive to make a first post on forums not knowing the crowd. I think ill stick around here tho. Seems like a great bunch or very knowledgeable people here!
I appreciate all the help! Im always apprehensive to make a first post on forums not knowing the crowd. I think ill stick around here tho. Seems like a great bunch or very knowledgeable people here!
bcradio
Well-known member
You're on track here if you're worried about 3/8" not handling it. You can get a 19mm impact socket and 1/2" breaker bar at HF for probably less than $15
Askme42
Well-known member
Yep and the new Pitt pro ratchet.
Conductor562
Well-known member
If you were going to be wrenching on 130 ft.-lbs. with any regularity I'd say go 1/2" by all means, but just about any 3/8" ratchet from a respectable manufacturer will handle that kind of torque now and then.
There are 2 scenarios:
1. Korn doesn't want to spend the money on 1/2" drive **** if he doesn't need to.
Answer: Don't worry about it. The 3/8" is sufficient.
2. Korn isn't super concerned with real need and see's an opportunity to justify a tool purchase to Mrs. Korn.
Answer: Lie like hell and swear that pathetic little 3/8" ratchet might explode under load and put an eye out or something. Tell her to PM me, I'll back you up
Hell, If it were me, I'd tell her I needed a 3/4" drive set and the instructions specify it can only be done with __________ (Insert Brand of Choice).
There are 2 scenarios:
1. Korn doesn't want to spend the money on 1/2" drive **** if he doesn't need to.
Answer: Don't worry about it. The 3/8" is sufficient.
2. Korn isn't super concerned with real need and see's an opportunity to justify a tool purchase to Mrs. Korn.
Answer: Lie like hell and swear that pathetic little 3/8" ratchet might explode under load and put an eye out or something. Tell her to PM me, I'll back you up
Hell, If it were me, I'd tell her I needed a 3/4" drive set and the instructions specify it can only be done with __________ (Insert Brand of Choice).
There is no Mrs. Korn. That is how i'm able to afford car parts and tools right now! haha I went to school to work on airplanes and 1/4in and 3/8in drive is sufficient for most the stuff I learned on. So I don't have many tools bigger than 3/8in drive.
Im placing an order for a 24in breaker bar and a set of 1/2in drive deep well impact sockets from harbor freight tonight.
Im placing an order for a 24in breaker bar and a set of 1/2in drive deep well impact sockets from harbor freight tonight.
Conductor562
Well-known member
Well, at least you picked up some tools out of the deal.
Yeah, I wasted a lot of money on a couple tools hoping they would come in handy later on in my career tho too. Unfortunately I couldn't find any aviation work that would give me the chance to get my foot in the door. So I have a real nice Pneumatic mini palm drill, some expensive safety wire pliers, and some sheet metal tools that might never get used. Im working in a completely different industry now.
nicksnothereman
Well-known member
You mean foot pounds I think. I wouldn't use 3/8 with that high torque and I own craftsman usa sockets; not over 75 foot pounds (give or take) with 3/8 for me (based on the stuff I have/how long I want to keep it). 1/2 is fine, doesn't necessarily need to be with a 1/2 ratchet (could do a 3/8 with an adapter) but the adapter probably costs as much as a damn 1/2 ratchet so might as well buy one.
This is my opinion. Craftsman 3/8 can take more (I wouldn't say 130 foot pounds; maybe up to 100 foot pounds) but if you want to keep it you probably want to protect it and not snap em.
Wakefield
Well-known member
I was trying to get something up to 75 ft. lb. with a Craftsman 3/8" drive chrome socket in 15mm. but it split/busted just before the torque wrench would have clicked-but that socket was broached off-center and very thin at the corner that cracked--local Sears was still in business in those days and I exchanged it for a good one- 1980 Citation had engine cradle or subframe with 15 mm. headed bolts that compressed rubber "cushions" -keeping them tight tended to keep the engine/powertrain from moving so much when you went from pulling to coasting-also got myself a 15 mm. Impact 1/2" drive socket at Sears after that-
cuengineer
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 41
In case you or someone else does not realize it, the HF 25-in breaker bar will provide a lot more leverage than the typical 18-in one which comes in handy for us old geezers who don't want to strain too much. One downside to the HF ones is that the head is fairly large compared to Cman and others and may have clearance problems in some cases, and the longer length can be awkward if working in close spaces. I use both 18-in Cmans and 25-in HFs. If I need a breaker bar, I usually grab the HF one first. It looks a lot nicer with a smooth chrome finish. Plus I have never had a problem even when I put a 4+ feet of pipe on it to get more leverage.
nicksnothereman
Well-known member
I've had em deform around that so it's one of my arbitrary limits. That's right about when I started using impact on a ratchet.
I just want to avoid having to warranty them; they're good general purpose sockets in my opinion.
I use my 12pt STAHLWILLE 21mm socket on Teng-Tools 75mm extrension to remove wheels on cars + 500mm Teng-Tools extension bar + Teng-Tools T Bar Adaptor 1/2in Female 3/8in Male. All stuff 3/8" drive. Works good.
If manufacturer made socket 21mm, or 19mm or even 24mm with square 3/8", it's MUST do the job! I believe square 3/8" MUST handle 200nM (147.5 foot pounds) without any problems.
If you can fit socket on bolt, use it, no matter it's 3/8" or 1/4" etc. If it's splits - it's garbage. If splits square - it's too big load or... it's garbage breaker bar, ratchet etc. imho
If manufacturer made socket 21mm, or 19mm or even 24mm with square 3/8", it's MUST do the job! I believe square 3/8" MUST handle 200nM (147.5 foot pounds) without any problems.
If you can fit socket on bolt, use it, no matter it's 3/8" or 1/4" etc. If it's splits - it's garbage. If splits square - it's too big load or... it's garbage breaker bar, ratchet etc.
imho
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I had a 6 cylinder Volvo 960 i was removing head bolts and the head rounded of using a 6 point Mac impact socket. I used a Blue Point extractor socket and a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer with a long Snap On Breaker bar and it pulled the bolt.
I switched to a deep Snap On chrome socket for the rest of the bolts.
I switched to a deep Snap On chrome socket for the rest of the bolts.
Conductor562
Well-known member
I use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with a reducer and a 3/8" drive 21mm Blackhawk socket to torque the slipper sprocket on our race quad to 110 ft.-lbs. at least 4 times every weekend and have yet to bust a socket.
I use my 12pt STAHLWILLE 21mm socket on Teng-Tools 75mm extrension to remove wheels on cars + 500mm Teng-Tools extension bar + Teng-Tools T Bar Adaptor 1/2in Female 3/8in Male. All stuff 3/8" drive. Works good.
If manufacturer made socket 21mm, or 19mm or even 24mm with square 3/8", it's MUST do the job! I believe square 3/8" MUST handle 200nM (147.5 foot pounds) without any problems.
If you can fit socket on bolt, use it, no matter it's 3/8" or 1/4" etc. If it's splits - it's garbage. If splits square - it's too big load or... it's garbage breaker bar, ratchet etc.
AHAHAH
Just broke 1\2" female to 3\8" male adapter on M12 Bolt! Well... it was wheel bolt, but anyway, it's because poor design of adapter! There is no much metal on square!
The hole inside square is 4.8mm for spring and ball. Square 9.5x9.5mm, so stress area of adapter only ~72мм2, but stress area of М12 - 84.30мм2!
Official dialer don't warranty adapters from big square to small.
Great lord, I had one of those terrible cars when I was young. Two of them actually. It went through front wheel bearings more often than I changed oil. I had the transverse 2.8 V6 with the world's worst, clunky, ****** transaxle, capable of Guiness Book of World Record torque steer. Those we're bad cars.