MaxJax - Hydraulic Leaks

[sidwin]

my one side leaks a tad. my other side leaks a little more. i put a white paper towel and i see it is turning pink. this is with nothing on the lift. i'm cleaned and re-tighten on side with no luck.

going to buy some fittings tomorrow. i like the quick connect that came stock and will probably keep those.

 

[sidwin]

i was thinking about this the other day.

instead of using all those fittings, is there a reason why not to replace all those fittings with a 1 ft hose and use a 3/8 to 1/4 npt? one side would have the npt and the other side would have the male quick connect. That way tightening the line won't be a big deal and less fittings to worry about leaking....

i bought aeroquip fittings for both sides $22 at my local place. probably go back and just get a two 1 ft 3/8 lines instead.

 

[Trey T]

Can you buy the Faster coupler online? If so, where?

 

[sidwin]

i was thinking about this the other day.

instead of using all those fittings, is there a reason why not to replace all those fittings with a 1 ft hose and use a 3/8 to 1/4 npt? one side would have the npt and the other side would have the male quick connect. That way tightening the line won't be a big deal and less fittings to worry about leaking....

i bought aeroquip fittings for both sides $22 at my local place. probably go back and just get a two 1 ft 3/8 lines instead.

got my 1 ft lines. if anyone wants to get it done, i went with 3500 psi aeroquip. then one side is 3/8npt and the other side is 1/2npt. that way i now have no fittings until i hit the quick connect. makes the install so much cleaner. you can also take this time to get the 90 degree elbow put in so your line can lay flat. not a single drop. definitely makes me feel better than having all those fittings. maxjax should have done it backwards. the fittings should have been on the pump side and all the hoses say with the post. that way if there was a leak it would be so much easier to troubleshoot. it would have been nice if they used AN fittings instead of NPT. Those hoses would line up so much easier as well.

Thanks,
Sid

 

[Cobra96]

Hey Sid..., I read your posts with regard to the max jax 1 foot hose upgrade. I just bought one of these and I have read a lot about the leaks that seem to be inherent with the fittings supplied with this lift. I haven't installed it yet and I'm probably going to replace all the fittings before hand. I was wondering if you have any pictures of how you set it up. Any insight would be appreciated. I'm new to the board and haven't posted yet..., this is my first post!

Thanks Chuck

 

[sidwin]

Hey Sid..., I read your posts with regard to the max jax 1 foot hose upgrade. I just bought one of these and I have read a lot about the leaks that seem to be inherent with the fittings supplied with this lift. I haven't installed it yet and I'm probably going to replace all the fittings before hand. I was wondering if you have any pictures of how you set it up. Any insight would be appreciated. I'm new to the board and haven't posted yet..., this is my first post!

Thanks Chuck

CHuck,

Takes those FN fittings and toss them in the garbage. Absolute PITA to deal with. You are going to want to figure out where you are going to position the pump. Once you know where then go buy your custom lines. I could have saved some money if got rid of those fittings from day one. The male/female quick connect is ok. Make sure you get the 90 degree fittings so you lines will lay flat on the ground. Attach those 90 elbow to the your male quick connect. I went straight from the hose directly into the post. only 1 spot possible for it to leak and really isn't possible.

ANother upgrade you can do is convert all the fittings on the pump to AN. They sell a converter that does it which will give you a better angle on the job. I was thinking about this the other day. The design is backwards. The quick connect should have been placed on the pump and not the post. That way if there is ever a leak, all of the leak would be at the pump and much easier to test. when you move the post, you simply wrap the hose on the lock bar. only downside is how the hose without the 90 would be difficult to make lie flat. You can do this method of installation with pretty much everything they gave you. All you would have to do is go to the hydraulic shop and ask them to cut off one of the fittings and install 3/8npt on there.

I paid $2200 for the lift. I bought easily $150 in hoses and fittings, $100 in anchors, $150 in drill bits. I'm easily in $2600 for this thing.

 

[In My Garage]

I paid $2200 for the lift. I bought easily $150 in hoses and fittings, $100 in anchors, $150 in drill bits. I'm easily in $2600 for this thing.

Lucky you.

My installation including every single bit ran me just short of $4800. No regrets though.

 

[Cobra96]

Hey Sid...., thanks for your reply and insight, it sounds like that would be the way to do it and it makes sense to me to hang the hoses on the posts. I did quite a bit of research here before buying the lift and then after getting it all of these red flags started popping up like uneven lifting, leaks and even a connector blowing out and a cylinder dropping (probably an over tightened junk fitting but none the less). I'm waiting for my concrete to cure then ill install. Was actually thinking about selling it and getting one of those triumph Chrome C7000 lifts but I think at this point I'll do a mock up this weekend while waiting on concrete and then get all the fittings and hoses so I can circumvent many of the hassles associated with this lift. If you guys had to rate this on a scale from one to ten where would you put this unit in comparison to the triumph lift that I have seen some of the folks on here discussing?

Thanks again!

Chuck

 

[Cobra96]

Hey Sid...., just anther follow up for clarity. Are you saying that you reversed the whole set up and put your quick connects on the pump? I think I would want to do it that way as well. I hope this isn't an annoying question. I have read the install directions but I haven't even un boxed this yet. So like I said, before I actually drill and mount, I'm going to mock up the hoses and fittings. I will probably mount the pump on a wall in the garage, so I'll probably need two 90 degree fittings at the pump. The 90 degree fittings you were referring to are at the post?
Thanks Again!!!
Chuck

 

[sidwin]

Hey Sid...., just anther follow up for clarity. Are you saying that you reversed the whole set up and put your quick connects on the pump? I think I would want to do it that way as well. I hope this isn't an annoying question. I have read the install directions but I haven't even un boxed this yet. So like I said, before I actually drill and mount, I'm going to mock up the hoses and fittings. I will probably mount the pump on a wall in the garage, so I'll probably need two 90 degree fittings at the pump. The 90 degree fittings you were referring to are at the post?
Thanks Again!!!
Chuck

Chuck the 90 is used so the hose exiting the post lay flat instead of pointing up. If you quick connect the pump then the only thing you need to do is take the hose to a hydraulic shop and get them to cut the fitting and put a 1/4 npt male on it so you can screw it directly into each post. You won't need a 90 at all. You might have to buy two short hoses or use fittings so you can mount the quick connects to the pump.

Thanks - Sid

 

[Cobra96]

Thanks Sid!
Yeah, I think I'm gonna go straight into the post with a couple of one or two foot lines and then just hold the one foot pieces to the post with a bungee cord when the lift isn't in use. I'll use the 90% elbows at the pump be ause I'm planning on mounting it the wall. I'll keep the disconnect at the pump and at the end of each post line. I'm planning on upgrading the quick disconnects due to the problems that a lot of people seem to have with hem on this board. I think going straight into the post off the hose is the way to do it though. All those fittings at the post the way it is layed out just seems like a leak waiting to happen.

Thanks again!
Chuck

 

[sidwin]

Thanks Sid!
Yeah, I think I'm gonna go straight into the post with a couple of one or two foot lines and then just hold the one foot pieces to the post with a bungee cord when the lift isn't in use. I'll use the 90% elbows at the pump be ause I'm planning on mounting it the wall. I'll keep the disconnect at the pump and at the end of each post line. I'm planning on upgrading the quick disconnects due to the problems that a lot of people seem to have with hem on this board. I think going straight into the post off the hose is the way to do it though. All those fittings at the post the way it is layed out just seems like a leak waiting to happen.

Thanks again!
Chuck

Ok if you do that just leave the pump stuff alone. Those fitting don't leak. Partially because they use an fittings on the left side. I would add the 90 on the post side. The 1 ft hose will work great. Anything longer could be tight if your post is close to a wall like mine. Remember you need 1/4 npt on onside and 3/8 on the other. Add you two 90 so hose lay flat and turns towards pump and you will bee good to go. To clean up the install, I added 6 ft of length to my driver side so I can wrap the hose behind. Make sure you buy the cat hydraulic lubricator. Stuff was expensive but quiets the pump. They told me to be careful and not use too much oil you could get seal leak. Sounds like you are ready. I would buy a couple extra anchors. If your anchor spins at all hammer it down to the dirt and put in epoxy anchors. Buy two tubes of epoxy. I noticed any cement less than 5 in have good chance to spinning. Drill your holes and measure. I used epoxy even on the regular anchors. Helped get them down smoother and locked them up.

Once level and bolted, after my heavy truck went on there, I retorqued the bolts. Amazing how much they can loosen. Haven't had to do it since. I don't remove my post. I remove the arms if I need space.

Thanks - Sid

 

[Cobra96]

Thanks Sid..., still have to seal the concrete. I'm doing an outside install, then I will try and get it to work inside. Thanks for reminding be of the tight space between the post and connection.

I'll keep you posted!

 

[mstnd]

One of my couplers is starting to leak at the cylinder. I'm having a very hard time taking it out though. I can barely get a 3/4" wrench on it then can only turn it a 1/4 of a turn or so. Any tips?

Also if you upgrade the poppet fittings how do you change the female end on the

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[mstnd]

Nigel, breaking the flat-face coupler connection yesterday evening didn't even yield a drop of hydraulic oil. In fact, there was so little hydraulic oil on the faces of the flat-face couplers that you couldn't even stain a paper towel while wiping them.

And the faces of the flat-face couplers were bone dry after being disconnected overnight.

I'm sold on these. [emoji106]

How do you get these fittings on the hoses?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[Hop2it]

I'm fighting some fluid leaks now after the first few lifts of my car. One leak is down at the base of the hydraulic cylinder; I can't see which one of the fittings is leaking, but I'm afraid I may have to take the post down, remove the fittings, clean off the tape and re-install. There are also some small leaks on the QD fitting on the hose end. I purchased a pair of 90 degree fittings for the female QD connectors and there is a leak at that point.

I assume that re-doing all the fittings will lead to a fair amount of fluid loss and another fluid bleeding drill??

I had the same problem so I had hoses made a foot long and welded a mounting bracket on the posts and mounted the quick disconnect fittings.no more leaks
Doug