MaxJax Install - Concrete too thin!

[JohnnieMo]

My Avalanche was weighed at 6130lbs. So I know I'm exceeding the limit. How do you find that the MaxJax does with it? The jack stands are obviously a must.

@ Denwood. - Thanks for the explanation. I agree with your conclusions. I think embedding an actual bolt in the concrete might make even more sense, but then you are left with bolts sticking out of the floor.

My garage is on the smaller side, so it's nice to go with a portable lift, so there is versatility with the space. A 4 post or a fixed 2 post just isn't convenient for something I use 6 to 8 times a year.

As a total side note, what is that sweet looking panel board on your walls? I have really crappy drywall and rather than trying to clean it all up, I'd love to just cover it with something like what you've got there.

 

[Denwood]

Johnnie, it's just MDF slat wall. My walls (plywood from previous owner) were in rough shape for paint, and I was liking the versatility of slat wall. HD sells it. This stuff was from Windsor Plywood locally. Once you do the slatwall, you can go crazy with organization. Keep in mind that you'll need to extend your electrical boxes. I've just clear coated the panels with water based Varathane x 2 coats.

 

[JohnnieMo]

Electrical box extensions!!! I've never seen such a thing. Man I could have used those before....

I was considering removing the drywall and replacing with this stuff, but I'm not sure how the fire code folks would feel about it. Sounds like you had plywood before though, so maybe I'm overthinking this.

 

[rburke65]

Real nice job on the lift.you won't ever have to worry about it.

 

[Denwood]

Your drywall is your fire barrier. The MDF slat wall carries a class 3 "C" fire rating., but your drywall is the ticket. My shop walls would have failed code here being plywood. I seriously doubt it was ever inspected back in the 70s when it was built. My ceiling is now much better with 5/8" drywall, and the shop is detached (about 50ft!)... so I just went over the existing plywood.

Thanks Burke. I'll still use low rise lift stands, but the lift is about as good as it gets with respect to foundation

 

[tomsmith]

It'll lift the avalanche to the first set of holes no problem. It is noticeably slower getting to the second set of holes. I don't have the ceiling clearance to get it higher than that.

I also have a good extra 25' of hydraulic hose each side though so I don't know if that's affecting it's lifting ability. It shouldn't I guess but not sure.

 

[Denwood]

Tom, hydraulic fluid is more or less incompressible, so the extra length should not be affecting your lift. My lines are asymmetric (one longer than other), but the flow divider works based on volume. As long as the cylinder volume is the same (and free of air), length of hose is a non issue. Because air is very compressible, any air in your columns will cause uneven lift as soon as you load up the lift.

Because my lift is often at pretty cold temps (shop is only heated when I'm in it) I did use full synthetic ATF. increase in viscosity at very low temps likely would slow the lift a bit.

 

[Denwood]

Took these pics for the build thread so just posting them here to finish off the lift install.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Cleanliness is next to godliness! Very nice install Dennis...I may steal a few ideas from you.

 

[Denwood]

Steal away I'm glad you found the thread useful. When it comes to workspaces, I'm a big fan of the basic LEAN (and its many variants) principles. That thinking forces you to be efficient with space.

 

[JohnnieMo]

The slats in those wall boards must be quite strong to hang the MaxJax arms on there. That was my concern about the MDF.... whether or not it could hold a load.

 

[vonhef]

Looks really good... great job on the lift install.

 

[Denwood]

Von, thanks

Johnnie, MDF slatwall is good for around 30lbs, 1 ft out from the slatwall, at least acording to this test:

The shelf brackets I'm using for the lift pads are for 8" shelves and have a larger flange to engage the slat wall, so likely good for more weight yet. The Youtube test above used a pressure sensor 12" out from the wall (so a fair bit of leverage)..and the MaxJax lift arms only extend 4" from the wall. If they did the test at 4" away, I'd guess about 90lbs would be required before breakout. I have some scraps so perhaps I'll do a test to failure and see how it does

 

[JohnnieMo]

You are so well informed! Clearly research must be your thing. I shall proceed with the slat wall. Still need to pick a lift though.... as much as I love the MaxJax, I don't need my Avalanche falling on me.

 

[sublimate]

That looks like a tripping hazard.
Can you put a 45deg fitting on the column so that hose can lay flat on the floor?

You'd then even be able to cover both hoses with a board to protect them and allow you to roll things over easily.

 

[ford33]

Nice work on the garage. I like how your top cabinets slant inward.

 

[Denwood]

Sub, there's a quick release fitting at the column base (so you can disconnect the columns) hence the 45. That said, I could add another 45 after the QR. I haven't had an issue, but the missus might

Ford, thanks. The ceiling raise project for the lift resulted in extra room to also do the soffit storage. There is a lot of room up there.

 

[glennda5id]

Control joint question:


I bought myself a lift and I am in the process of a concrete upgrade. Dennis, your thread has been a huge help. I am also following the Mohawk guide. My current slab is ~3" and not reinforced (no rebar). I cut out a 4' x 15' section and then dug down ~13" and keyed in ~6" under the existing. I will be pouring next week.

What are people's thoughts on control joints? Dennis I don't think you made any.

 

[glennda5id]

Here are some pics.

 

[Lamby44pod]

This was a definite surprise. Going from the picture of when you just got the lift installed to the final picture. Incredible! Bravo!

I was not expecting that kind of transformation.

I was thinking about tearing down my perfectly fine garage and building a larger one, but after seeing pictures like this, I think I can utilize the space better and make it into something pretty nice. Unfortunately, the way the garage is built, I don't think a lift is going to be possible.

But awesome job on this. Super impressed.

 

[Denwood]

Glenn, sorry I missed your question. I realize you've likely poured long ago..but correct, no expansion joints. Zero cracks after a pretty cold winter with the slab below zero for a lot of it.

Lamby, thanks for the kind words

 

[mp333]

looks great...

 

[Denwood]

Thanks MP. Here's an update after installing a floor drain, and RaceDeck drain pad to contain snow melt. The yellow tiles are very useful to line cars up on the hoist.

 

[Denwood]

Just fixed up the images for this thread (they were all broken) in response to a PM I received on the under-floor conduit. The hoist and floor drain system are working well in 2020, with one note. Make sure your conduit exits behind the plane of the swing arms, keeping in mind that they swing back slightly. If you exit in a line drawn parallel to the back of the columns (not the front as I did) you're 100% ok.

 

[Denwood]

I'm just updating the thread based on a few recent questions:

How far apart are the columns?
The columns are 112" apart, measured between the columns, not the base. In my 24 foot deep garage, I have the columns 12 feet back from the door so vehicles are centered in the raised (16ft) section of the ceiling. This has worked for pretty much every vehicle I've hoisted so far over the past five years.

What would I change doing it again?
The only change I would make is to take the conduit to about 120" apart (where they exit the slab) so they exit behind the lift arms a few inches. Right now, the hoses exit just below the lift arms at rest and fully retracted...so ideally they would exit a few more inches behind the arms. Just take your column spacing and add about four inches each side as a guide to where conduit would exit the slab.

This lift is used a lot, and is still going strong. I'd definitely welcome the new design with integrated safety catches...the old design like mine needs to be used with caution.

 

[428PI]

Nice job but lifts can get in the way of simple things like walking around your car. I know. I do it 8 times a day at work and perhaps use the lift 2 times a week. I would have opted for a scissor lift or just my QuickJack.