Maxjax Installs: Post Here

[abstamaria]

Haha. That's true, Jose! I'm always trying to cut down on things, even colors!

My best wishes to you and all for the holidays and the New Year. May your cars run sweetly and may you always have interesting projects to occupy you.

Andres

 

[Jvvmusme]

Andres
Wish you happy holidays and another car in 2013.....
Remember hapiness in always one car away
Jose

 

[ack65dart]

I've had my ~5000lb Chevy Tahoe on mine.

Are the feet for the lift in the right spot for that car. It looks like they are too far out and not on the car frame. Any one else see it?

 

[97dynaglide]

Note: These fittings are for dry-fit only, use high pressure fittings!

Getting close with my install. Here is a picture of the pump mounted on a column:

And here is the hose going up. Yes, I had room for a full-size lift but went with the MaxJax as a temp lift until I start my detached building in a few years. Extra credit if you can identify the bike.

Bike is a '87-88 Gt Pro Performer. Do I win the bike? If so, I'll PM you my address.

 

[DonnyT]

Are those pipe UNIONS you have on there??? I would think they would leak rated at 150 psi, extra heavy UNIONS are 300 psi. Your hose is rated at 3000 psi which is what the pump can reach.

 

[ack65dart]

No they are temp install, he was doing.

 

[RAYJAY]

looking to install a maxjax we have a Subaru that i need to lift what does every use to lift this type of car

you have to lift on the body crimp,

 

[Wiggum]

Just in case anyone is interested.... two cheap MaxJax's.... $1250 asking... scoop for a cool grand?

Palm Springs CALI

Seattle WASH

 

[demoderbydave]

Just in case anyone is interested.... two cheap MaxJax's.... $1250 asking... scoop for a cool grand?

Palm Springs CALI

Seattle WASH

NOW thats a DEAL!

 

[artrem]

In a previous post I was asking for advise finding a local installer for a MaxJax, because I was not sure about the concrete. I finally got in touch with Garage Equipment Supply and they hooked me up with a local installer who retrieved the lift from the shipping depot, brought it to my house and installed it.

This particular installer prefers to use bolts instead of the supplied anchors because he felt they were safer. I agreed to that because I was more interested in safety than convenience and with my tiny 12 x 24 foot garage, I don't really have much room to store the columns anywhere else anyway. Turns out the concrete was good after all, with 4-1/2 to 6 inches of depth, and the installer thought it might be fiberglass reinforced from the way it drilled.

So the columns are bolted down and there they stay. I could move the columns if I wanted to, but we wound up locating them near the walls at a spacing of 135 inches. At that width, I can walk around the car easily since my normal parking position is about 2 feet back from where I position it to be lifted.

I'm a little concerned about such a wide column spacing, but I contacted Dannmar and they assured me it was okay since the lift arms aren't fully extended when lifting my Cayman (see photo below).

I should note that one year ago, this was a one-car carport. The space is well insulated, with a 9000 BTU heat pump/air conditioner. It has an 8-foot ceiling, so prior to installing the lift, I replaced the track garage door opener with a Liftmaster 3800 jackshaft opener, to get adequate clearance. The installation of a lift marks the completion of my carport-to-garage conversion project.

The only problems I had with the MaxJax were 1) the usual problems synchronizing the two cylinders, but I finally got that sorted out; 2) paint and metal burrs in the holes in the lift arms where the large pin goes; and 3) a frustrating leak in the ATF reservoir around the drain plug. I cranked down on the plastic drain plug as much as I dared. If it continues to leak, I will RTV the sucker.

Here are a couple of photos taken before I moved all the shelves along the right side back.

When you are limited to such a small work area, you have to be very creative about how you use the space. The MaxJax is perfect for this garage. As you can see, I don't have space for a big workbench, but I will build a more proper bench soon. I wish I had the space for my other two workbenches and my big toolbox, but a tiny garage beats a carport any day.

 

[les_garten]

@artrem


Nice job! If it makes ya feel better, you got more usable room in yours now than I do in my 3 car! I need to clean this pigsty up!

What's wrong with having the arms all the way out? What did GES say about that?

 

[danieldd]

.....
So the columns are bolted down and there they stay. I could move the columns if I wanted to, but we wound up locating them near the walls at a spacing of 135 inches. At that width, I can walk around the car easily since my normal parking position is about 2 feet back from where I position it to be lifted.

I'm a little concerned about such a wide column spacing, but I contacted Dannmar and they assured me it was okay since the lift arms aren't fully extended when lifting my Cayman.....

I had the same thing done that you did. My columns are bolted down as well. I don't plan on moving them. If I do, I'll have to use my engine lift to pick it up to clear the studs in the floor, but I don't see that being anything more than a minor inconvenience.

Mine are positioned at 130 inches - I can't image that an additional 5 inches would create any kind of problem. Over on RL, there are people that set them at 135 inches for their 928s, so you're in good company. The wider setting allows you to open the doors more fully...

 

[DonnyT]

The only problems I had with the MaxJax were 1) the usual problems synchronizing the two cylinders, but I finally got that sorted out; 2) paint and metal burrs in the holes in the lift arms where the large pin goes; and 3) a frustrating leak in the ATF reservoir around the drain plug. I cranked down on the plastic drain plug as much as I dared. If it continues to leak, I will RTV the sucker.

Interesting, I had the same problems as you with the exception of the cylinders. I still have a slight leak at the drain plug, I'm afarid to tighten it anymore, its only plastic. I set my post at 126" apart. Not sure I understand the bolt theory. The bolts I have seen use the same wedge-it concept, they are just bolts instead of female anchors. They both use the same anchoring system. Here is a pic of the bolt: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCRETE-WE...767?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ced9adc7

 

[artrem]

Thanks for all the feedback, see my responses below.

@artrem


Nice job! If it makes ya feel better, you got more usable room in yours now than I do in my 3 car! I need to clean this pigsty up!

What's wrong with having the arms all the way out? What did GES say about that?

I told them that the arms were extended about 1/3 full extension, and this was the reply: "For a full size vehicle the spacing is 120 -130 typical spacing the 135 will be okay because you only have to extend the arms about 1/3 of the arm extension capability". So, does that mean that the stated 6000 lb capacity can be reached at any lift arm extension? It is unfortunate that Dannmar doesn't provide more guidance on maximum column spacing and/or lift arm extension considerations.

I had the same thing done that you did. My columns are bolted down as well. I don't plan on moving them. If I do, I'll have to use my engine lift to pick it up to clear the studs in the floor, but I don't see that being anything more than a minor inconvenience.

Mine are positioned at 130 inches - I can't image that an additional 5 inches would create any kind of problem. Over on RL, there are people that set them at 135 inches for their 928s, so you're in good company. The wider setting allows you to open the doors more fully...

Thanks! That's good to hear. The Cayman will probably be the smallest vehicle that I'd lift.

The only problems I had with the MaxJax were 1) the usual problems synchronizing the two cylinders, but I finally got that sorted out; 2) paint and metal burrs in the holes in the lift arms where the large pin goes; and 3) a frustrating leak in the ATF reservoir around the drain plug. I cranked down on the plastic drain plug as much as I dared. If it continues to leak, I will RTV the sucker.

Interesting, I had the same problems as you with the exception of the cylinders. I still have a slight leak at the drain plug, I'm afarid to tighten it anymore, its only plastic. I set my post at 126" apart. Not sure I understand the bolt theory. The bolts I have seen use the same wedge-it concept, they are just bolts instead of female anchors. They both use the same anchoring system. Here is a pic of the bolt: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCRETE-WE...767?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ced9adc7

That plastic reservoir is a piece of junk IMO. I don't have any observable leaks at this time, but there is still a pervasive odor of ATF in the garage. Doesn't bother me, but my wife insists she can smell it in the house. I'm guessing that its coming from a vent somewhere, so about all I could do is bag the whole unit or store it outside, which would be unacceptable.

Yeah, when I saw the bolts, my first question was "so, how is this different than the Wej-it anchors?" The response I got was that he felt that a nut on a threaded bolt is stronger than a bolt in a threaded sleeve. I did a double-take with that statement, since I'd assume the opposite to be true. I think the bottom line is that this particular installer was just more used to installing bolts, because that is what the majority of his commercial installations use. He used 3/4" x 5" bolts, and since my slab was around 6" thick, I was okay with that. If I needed to move the columns, then I would have insisted on the female anchors.

 

[DonnyT]

I used #10 hydraulic oil and have NO smell whatsoever.

 

[mikeyr]

That is the ONE issue I have with my Maxjax, it leaks likes a sieve. Leaks at the hose connection at the column bases, leaks at the end of the hoses and leaks at the reservoir. The hose connectors are garbage, my columns leak right out the connectors when the thing is not being. The reservoir seems to be the worse leak and I can't seal it up with RTV or like that because I have to be able to refill it due to the hose connection leaks.

 

[artrem]

I used #10 hydraulic oil and have NO smell whatsoever.

Oh great, NOW you tell me... That makes me wish I'd used hydraulic oil. I don't think it's possible now to switch fluids, particularly since I don't think Hyd and ATF are compatible with each other. I shudder to think what would be necessary to flush the system. I need to find out if its even possible. I think I'm stuck with smelly ol' ATF.

 

[IONH]

Yeah, when I saw the bolts, my first question was "so, how is this different than the Wej-it anchors?" The response I got was that he felt that a nut on a threaded bolt is stronger than a bolt in a threaded sleeve. I did a double-take with that statement, since I'd assume the opposite to be true. I think the bottom line is that this particular installer was just more used to installing bolts, because that is what the majority of his commercial installations use. He used 3/4" x 5" bolts, and since my slab was around 6" thick, I was okay with that. If I needed to move the columns, then I would have insisted on the female anchors.

This reminds me of ARP head studs versus head bolts. They have done some studies which showed the studs were significantly stronger because of (I think) the strain from torque is put on the threads of the stud instead of in twisting the shaft of a bolt.

Oh great, NOW you tell me... That makes me wish I'd used hydraulic oil. I don't think it's possible now to switch fluids, particularly since I don't think Hyd and ATF are compatible with each other. I shudder to think what would be necessary to flush the system. I need to find out if its even possible. I think I'm stuck with smelly ol' ATF.

Cheaper to get a new wife?

 

[DonnyT]

That is the ONE issue I have with my Maxjax, it leaks likes a sieve. Leaks at the hose connection at the column bases, leaks at the end of the hoses and leaks at the reservoir. The hose connectors are garbage, my columns leak right out the connectors when the thing is not being. The reservoir seems to be the worse leak and I can't seal it up with RTV or like that because I have to be able to refill it due to the hose connection leaks.

Did you use teflon tape on all the joints??? I have no leaks other than what I mentioned.

 

[97dynaglide]

That is the ONE issue I have with my Maxjax, it leaks likes a sieve. Leaks at the hose connection at the column bases, leaks at the end of the hoses and leaks at the reservoir. The hose connectors are garbage, my columns leak right out the connectors when the thing is not being. The reservoir seems to be the worse leak and I can't seal it up with RTV or like that because I have to be able to refill it due to the hose connection leaks.

If you used the cheap and 'incorrectly wrapped from the factory' tape provided with the lift, then that is the problem.
I had to re-wrap all of the fittings with a better quality tape, and haven't had a single drop leak.

The reservoir on mine leaked from the lower drain plug/cap. If you have a leak from the top cap, you might be over filling the reservoir.
To remedy the lower leak, I raised the lift 3/4 the way up, laid the power cart on it's back, and removed the plug/cap.
The surface that the o ring seats against on the reservoir had what looked like a casting seam and a groove that ran up and down on the surface, there was no way the o ring could get tight enough to fill the void.

A little time with a file, and all is well with it now.

 

[artrem]

Cheaper to get a new wife?

No, not in the long run...she'd probably get the house AND the garage.

Regarding leaks, all the joints in my MaxJax were re-taped before installing and there are zero leaks in any of the connections. If the drain plug starts to weep again, I'll give Dynaglide's method for re-working the drain plug gasket seat a try. Still trying to figure out what the source of the ATF odor is...

 

[mikeyr]

If you used the cheap and 'incorrectly wrapped from the factory' tape provided with the lift, then that is the problem.
I had to re-wrap all of the fittings with a better quality tape, and haven't had a single drop leak.

No, I noticed how they were wrapped with Teflon so I redid them with proper teflon tape and correctly. My leaks are from the disconnect itself, not at the joints.

And I will take a better look at the reservoir cap, I don't think it can be overfilled anymore, its leaked out so much. It leaks a few days evertime I use the lift and stops until I use the lift again.

 

[artrem]

No, I noticed how they were wrapped with Teflon so I redid them with proper teflon tape and correctly. My leaks are from the disconnect itself, not at the joints.

And I will take a better look at the reservoir cap, I don't think it can be overfilled anymore, its leaked out so much. It leaks a few days evertime I use the lift and stops until I use the lift again.

I think it's normal to get a bit of fluid out of the quick connect when you disconnect it. I just use a rag or paper towel to catch the drips and wrap a ziplock bag around the connector with a rubber band to hold it on between uses. Another reason I want to get some longer hoses so I can leave them permanently connected.

So far, I haven't seen any leakage around the top cap, but the drain plug was a PITA to get sealed.

 

[DonnyT]

No, I noticed how they were wrapped with Teflon so I redid them with proper teflon tape and correctly. My leaks are from the disconnect itself, not at the joints.

And I will take a better look at the reservoir cap, I don't think it can be overfilled anymore, its leaked out so much. It leaks a few days evertime I use the lift and stops until I use the lift again.

What color quick disconnects do you have?? If they are Gold Dannmar will replace them for free. They did at one point anyway. I permanently installed mine with new longer hoses and have no leaks, well except for the drain plug as mentioned previuosly. I'm very happy with this lift overall.

 

[winnipegtibook]

In a previous post I was asking for advise finding a local installer for a MaxJax, because I was not sure about the concrete. I finally got in touch with Garage Equipment Supply and they hooked me up with a local installer who retrieved the lift from the shipping depot, brought it to my house and installed it.

This particular installer prefers to use bolts instead of the supplied anchors because he felt they were safer. I agreed to that because I was more interested in safety than convenience and with my tiny 12 x 24 foot garage, I don't really have much room to store the columns anywhere else anyway. Turns out the concrete was good after all, with 4-1/2 to 6 inches of depth, and the installer thought it might be fiberglass reinforced from the way it drilled.

So the columns are bolted down and there they stay. I could move the columns if I wanted to, but we wound up locating them near the walls at a spacing of 135 inches. At that width, I can walk around the car easily since my normal parking position is about 2 feet back from where I position it to be lifted.

I'm a little concerned about such a wide column spacing, but I contacted Dannmar and they assured me it was okay since the lift arms aren't fully extended when lifting my Cayman (see photo below).

I should note that one year ago, this was a one-car carport. The space is well insulated, with a 9000 BTU heat pump/air conditioner. It has an 8-foot ceiling, so prior to installing the lift, I replaced the track garage door opener with a Liftmaster 3800 jackshaft opener, to get adequate clearance. The installation of a lift marks the completion of my carport-to-garage conversion project.

The only problems I had with the MaxJax were 1) the usual problems synchronizing the two cylinders, but I finally got that sorted out; 2) paint and metal burrs in the holes in the lift arms where the large pin goes; and 3) a frustrating leak in the ATF reservoir around the drain plug. I cranked down on the plastic drain plug as much as I dared. If it continues to leak, I will RTV the sucker.

Here are a couple of photos taken before I moved all the shelves along the right side back.

When you are limited to such a small work area, you have to be very creative about how you use the space. The MaxJax is perfect for this garage. As you can see, I don't have space for a big workbench, but I will build a more proper bench soon. I wish I had the space for my other two workbenches and my big toolbox, but a tiny garage beats a carport any day.

Curious to know if this garage is used for a daily driver? if so, dumb question. How is it to open / close doors next to the pillars on a daily basis? As well, can the pillars be set at different widths (i.e. to allow a foot or two away from the vehicle, or is there a set distance)? Sorry for the noob questions

 

[In My Garage]

How is it to open / close doors next to the pillars on a daily basis?

Although I have plenty of room to store my MaxJax columns out of the way in my 2-car garage, I chose to leave them in place.

To avoid using the MaxJax columns as door stops, I installed my columns more forward (away from the garage door) in the garage. When not using the MaxJax, I park my car further back (closer to the garage door). That helps provide space between the car door and the columns.

I'd still place a 4 inch thick foam pad around the column at door height...I will.

As well, can the pillars be set at different widths (i.e. to allow a foot or two away from the vehicle, or is there a set distance)?

As long as the supplied arms reach the vehicle, yes.

 

[winnipegtibook]

Thanks. I am dealing with a larger one-car. It's a bit of an odd-design (18 feet wide with a jut-out workshop), with 22 feet length (ish). Our daily drivers are boats (volvo wagon, volvo suv), and I am trying to see if / how this could work. I guess pics might help.

 

[artrem]

Thanks. I am dealing with a larger one-car. It's a bit of an odd-design (18 feet wide with a jut-out workshop), with 22 feet length (ish). Our daily drivers are boats (volvo wagon, volvo suv), and I am trying to see if / how this could work. I guess pics might help.

What Alex said. My car is my DD and in my tiny garage, I have one of those plastic tire stops glued to the floor, so I can place the car at the same spot each time. The MaxJax columns are located such that I can open both doors completely when I park everyday. When I want to use the lift, I move the car forward about 2 feet, just over the wheel stop. The columns are far apart enough so that clearance around the car isn't an issue either. I store the lift arms on a shelf.

Only thing I still want to do, is to mount the MaxJax pump on the wall to free up some precious floor space. I'm still looking for a source for 24 foot hoses with the right fittings, since I would prefer not to splice two 12-foot lengths.

One other thing I guess I should mention, since I'm posting.... as I mentioned earlier, while I have no leaks, there is still a pervasive odor of ATF in the garage. This is probably worse since the garage is so well insulated with no windows. I asked Dannmar if it was possible to switch to hydraulic oil after an initial fill with ATF, and they told me it IS possible, but not easy. That surprised me a bit since I've read the two fluids are incompatible. However, after considering all that was necessary to do the drain and refill, I decided to live with the odor and only try that only as a last resort if it becomes a problem.

 

[In My Garage]

One other thing I guess I should mention, since I'm posting.... as I mentioned earlier, while I have no leaks, there is still a pervasive odor of ATF in the garage. This is probably worse since the garage is so well insulated with no windows.

My garage is fully insulated and well sealed. I have a good sniffer and there is absolutely no odor coming from the use of Shell Industrial Hydraulic Fluid, S1 M 32.

 

[les_garten]

I can tell already that some of you Nancy's would hate my garage, smell wise that is...

 

[kkcshipp]

Anyone know if there might be a future group buy like they mentioned earlier in this thread?

 

[RAYJAY]

Anyone know if there might be a future group buy like they mentioned earlier in this thread?

x2 for more info

 

[winnipegtibook]

I appreciate the advice. I have some time to decide on this as it is -30c right now!

 

[CNGsaves]

Like the simplicity of the MaxJax 2 post lift . . . however, got a question for actual owners.

Why can't install be done with a longer hose on one post that is routed over on ceiling, and the other hose kept on other post and power unit mounted on post??

I would just hate having those 2 hoses on the ground to trip over or potentially cut a hole in while car is up on lift !!

 

[skamp]

Like the simplicity of the MaxJax 2 post lift . . . however, got a question for actual owners.

Why can't install be done with a longer hose on one post that is routed over on ceiling, and the other hose kept on other post and power unit mounted on post??

I would just hate having those 2 hoses on the ground to trip over or potentially cut a hole in while car is up on lift !!

That is exactly how mine is done. Works fine. See pics here:

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2247729&postcount=627
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2257167&postcount=637

Steve

 

[danieldd]

Like the simplicity of the MaxJax 2 post lift . . . however, got a question for actual owners.

Why can't install be done with a longer hose on one post that is routed over on ceiling, and the other hose kept on other post and power unit mounted on post??

I would just hate having those 2 hoses on the ground to trip over or potentially cut a hole in while car is up on lift !!

I have an additional 12 foot hose on one side of the maxjax that runs across the ceiling to the hydraulic unit. The other hose has an additional 4 foot hose on it and I mounted the hydraulic unit on the wall. I have had no problems with this setup....

 

[les_garten]

Like the simplicity of the MaxJax 2 post lift . . . however, got a question for actual owners.

Why can't install be done with a longer hose on one post that is routed over on ceiling, and the other hose kept on other post and power unit mounted on post??

I would just hate having those 2 hoses on the ground to trip over or potentially cut a hole in while car is up on lift !!

I'm doing mine that way. I had custom hoses made.

 

[CNGsaves]

Above post #798 by Granito looks like pure advertising . . . spammer?

 

[les_garten]

Above post #798 by Granito looks like pure advertising . . . spammer?

Indeed, hit the report button and label azzhole or some appropriate!

 

[Wiggum]

Another cheap MaxJax.... too far from me...

$1350 OBO.... <---- 1K MaxJax???

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/3593336741.html