Maxjax Installs: Post Here
- Thread starter G-force
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JonnyMac
Well-known member
If people are struggling to find these fittings we use similar stuff at work made by swagelok. Their catalog is huge and they do mail order usually.
I am in the process of installing my maxjax and wanted to share my issues.
1st issue I had was that the quick connect fittings for the base of the columns leaked badly. I contacted dannmar/ges and they sent me new ones, but they seem like better quality even if they wont admit that.
2nd issue was that i followed the wedge anchor install to the T. Unfortunately I bought a brand new Hitachi SDS+ bit that wasn't very good and the holes weren't as nice as the Dewalt SDS+ bits. When I did the anchor set procedure everything was tight and seemed to go as written. When trying to lift my B4000, which is just about max extension on my column width (129" outside plate to plate), the columns started to sag after not even a foot off the ground. I pounded them into the ground and ordered the epoxy anchor kit from dannmar/ges. They give you a reasonable deal.
I was skeptical of the wedge anchors, I should have gone with my instincts and just ordered the epoxy kit from the start. It should be here in a few days, but I expect better results.
Don't mess around, order the epoxy anchors. Save yourself the frustration and worry.
Here is my set up. I had to set it a little wider than the 125" to be able to leave it up and get enough clearance to swing the car in. I would say for an e30 bmw, 2011 acura tl, and a b4000, 120-125 would have been ideal. The pickup has really set in frame rails. I wish i would have considered that more than the 129" that is better for parking with them up.
1st issue I had was that the quick connect fittings for the base of the columns leaked badly. I contacted dannmar/ges and they sent me new ones, but they seem like better quality even if they wont admit that.
2nd issue was that i followed the wedge anchor install to the T. Unfortunately I bought a brand new Hitachi SDS+ bit that wasn't very good and the holes weren't as nice as the Dewalt SDS+ bits. When I did the anchor set procedure everything was tight and seemed to go as written. When trying to lift my B4000, which is just about max extension on my column width (129" outside plate to plate), the columns started to sag after not even a foot off the ground. I pounded them into the ground and ordered the epoxy anchor kit from dannmar/ges. They give you a reasonable deal.
I was skeptical of the wedge anchors, I should have gone with my instincts and just ordered the epoxy kit from the start. It should be here in a few days, but I expect better results.
Don't mess around, order the epoxy anchors. Save yourself the frustration and worry.
Here is my set up. I had to set it a little wider than the 125" to be able to leave it up and get enough clearance to swing the car in. I would say for an e30 bmw, 2011 acura tl, and a b4000, 120-125 would have been ideal. The pickup has really set in frame rails. I wish i would have considered that more than the 129" that is better for parking with them up.
I am in the process of installing my maxjax and wanted to share my issues.
1st issue I had was that the quick connect fittings for the base of the columns leaked badly. I contacted dannmar/ges and they sent me new ones, but they seem like better quality even if they wont admit that.
2nd issue was that i followed the wedge anchor install to the T. Unfortunately I bought a brand new Hitachi SDS+ bit that wasn't very good and the holes weren't as nice as the Dewalt SDS+ bits. When I did the anchor set procedure everything was tight and seemed to go as written. When trying to lift my B4000, which is just about max extension on my column width (129" outside plate to plate), the columns started to sag after not even a foot off the ground. I pounded them into the ground and ordered the epoxy anchor kit from dannmar/ges. They give you a reasonable deal.
I was skeptical of the wedge anchors, I should have gone with my instincts and just ordered the epoxy kit from the start. It should be here in a few days, but I expect better results.
Don't mess around, order the epoxy anchors. Save yourself the frustration and worry.
Here is my set up. I had to set it a little wider than the 125" to be able to leave it up and get enough clearance to swing the car in. I would say for an e30 bmw, 2011 acura tl, and a b4000, 120-125 would have been ideal. The pickup has really set in frame rails. I wish i would have considered that more than the 129" that is better for parking with them up.
that *****. I've had mine for 5 months now. I can promise you throw all those fittings on the post in the garbage can quickly. do yourself a favor and buy 2 1ft 3/8 6000 psi hoses. get 3/8npt male on one side and 1/4npt male on the other. thread the hose directly onto the post. then put the quick connects on. from your picture you want to add a 90 degree elbow on the female fittings. get some CAT hydraulic fluid addicitve to quiet the thing up. My anchors didn't have your problem. I used epoxy when i hammered them down in there. The ones that spun was due to depth problems and i replaced 3 of them with epoxy anchors. In theory 2 anchors should be strong enough but hey when you're under the thing, more saftey is better
The other option is to take the hose that comes with the kit and cut off one side and get a 1/4 npt put on. Then you can attached that hose directly to the post. Then put the quick connects on the pump side. Hydraulic shops sell NPT to AN fittings that could help install easier.
sid
one trick that worked for me is if you hold the raise button in and the release lever for 10 seconds, the stupid lift will lift evenly. i bled and bled and finally tried that trick and it worked a whole lot faster than bleeding. GED wants me to put a car on there to bleed. i laughed. i said let me go borrow my neighbor's car and call you back.
i used a stepping drill bit from harbor freight to do mine. took 15 min and then cleaned it up with the dremel.
used the same bit to drill me a 24 inch spot so i can use it to change tires and brakes.
that's not 100% true. for a test one night i raised both post. one post had the arms on it and the other had no arms. 7 hrs later and with no locks on, the side with the arms lowered itself to the ground. GES said that was normal since the locks were not on and the pump was not pumping fluid through it. scared me to be honest. get those locks in there asap.
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
For a test I left a car overnight at mid height with no safety bars and next day ....
The car was exactly at the same height, measured and marked with a chalk,
No leaks. Perfect. Was just a test. There is no reason not to use the safety bars, besides its no good to leave pressure on the cylinder seals and hoses.
The car was exactly at the same height, measured and marked with a chalk,
No leaks. Perfect. Was just a test. There is no reason not to use the safety bars, besides its no good to leave pressure on the cylinder seals and hoses.
Try this test. Remove The arm is off of one post then raise both post to the full height. Then leave it overnight and let me know if one side goes down. I'm guessing the reason why that happens is because there's up on even pressure on the arms causing this the lighter side to stay up while the heavy side goes down. This could be a test to exaggerate weight differences and low differences between arms. Imagine what would happen if this did happen due to you not centering the car properly on the left. I wouldn't want to take the risk. My heavier side lowered after 8 hrs. Ges said that was normal.
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
I have a homemade wooden ruler to center left and right the cars correctly and I always take care to place the car correctly on the lift regarding the correct center of gravity as instructed by the ALI (american lift institute) manual.
All my cars are small and lightweight so it is not that crucial. Different if you are lifting a 1954 El Dorado Cadillac..... There you must be more precise.
Of course as you get used to the lift you do both alignments by eye and experience....
I'm still fighting a couple leaks on my Maxjaxx hose connections. I have the QD's on the post side of the hoses and one thing I don't like is that the hoses seem to have a sort of permanent twist in them. That's probably due in part to where the threads in the fittings tighten down. I'm also using 90 degree ends at the QD fittings. That helps to keep the hose flat on the floor at the posts, but the twist in the hose will leave a portion of the hose a good foot off the ground 
I have been thinking about using swivel connections at the end of the hoses where the 90 degree fittings are installed. That may take the twist out of the hoses but I'm curious if swivel fittings have a tendency to leak simply because of that design.
I have been thinking about using swivel connections at the end of the hoses where the 90 degree fittings are installed. That may take the twist out of the hoses but I'm curious if swivel fittings have a tendency to leak simply because of that design.
that *****. I've had mine for 5 months now. I can promise you throw all those fittings on the post in the garbage can quickly. do yourself a favor and buy 2 1ft 3/8 6000 psi hoses. get 3/8npt male on one side and 1/4npt male on the other. thread the hose directly onto the post. then put the quick connects on. from your picture you want to add a 90 degree elbow on the female fittings. get some CAT hydraulic fluid addicitve to quiet the thing up. My anchors didn't have your problem. I used epoxy when i hammered them down in there. The ones that spun was due to depth problems and i replaced 3 of them with epoxy anchors. In theory 2 anchors should be strong enough but hey when you're under the thing, more saftey is better
The other option is to take the hose that comes with the kit and cut off one side and get a 1/4 npt put on. Then you can attached that hose directly to the post. Then put the quick connects on the pump side. Hydraulic shops sell NPT to AN fittings that could help install easier.
sid
thanks! i will look into different fitting layouts.
J
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
Get a sturdy caulk gun. That stuff is like trying to push iron through aged knows what. When I put the epoxy anchors in, it was about 60 degrees. Seemingly warm enough. I thought maybe the tubes were old or had been activated. I finally got it out , but much more difficult than it seemed like epoxy would be ...
do they stay in place when curing? or do the anchors sink and require something to keep them in place? I really dont want to mess this up!
One very important thing about using the epoxy anchors is to have the holes clean. Clean as in as dust-free as humanly possible. When you think the holes are clean enough, clean 'em again. The idea is to get all of the dust out so the epoxy will adhere to the concrete.
I used air pressure to clean the holes that I drilled and it took 4-5 blasts of air to not see any further dust get pushed out. In between, I used my shop vac to **** out dust using a reducer tip on the hose end.
How deep are the holes in your concrete floor? I had to cut out 4'x4' chunks of my floor as the concrete was only 2-1/2" thick where the original wej-it anchors were going to be installed. I had two pads poured in that 4'x4' section and were 12" thick with rebar and the rebar was extended into the existing floor.
I drilled 8" holes and used the 7" epoxy anchors. Follow the instructions carefully. Those anchors should push in but you may have to tap them with a hammer. The instructions will tell you where the top of the anchor should sit. Something like 1/8" below the floor surface? Let the epoxy cure for the recommended time!!
I used air pressure to clean the holes that I drilled and it took 4-5 blasts of air to not see any further dust get pushed out. In between, I used my shop vac to **** out dust using a reducer tip on the hose end.
How deep are the holes in your concrete floor? I had to cut out 4'x4' chunks of my floor as the concrete was only 2-1/2" thick where the original wej-it anchors were going to be installed. I had two pads poured in that 4'x4' section and were 12" thick with rebar and the rebar was extended into the existing floor.
I drilled 8" holes and used the 7" epoxy anchors. Follow the instructions carefully. Those anchors should push in but you may have to tap them with a hammer. The instructions will tell you where the top of the anchor should sit. Something like 1/8" below the floor surface? Let the epoxy cure for the recommended time!!
When I used the epoxy, the consistency was like a combination of thick caulk and sand. The anchors definitely stay in place when curing, requiring nothing to keep them in place. In fact, it took a fair amount of hammering to sink the anchors into the epoxy down to the required level.
Regarding the above post about ensuring the holes are very clean, I fully agree. After vacuuming the holes, I took a slightly damp rag and wrapped it around a screwdriver, and physically cleaned the insides of the holes. I wanted to remove all of the residual dust on the wall surfaces of the holes. I allowed the holes to fully dry before applying the epoxy.
My slab is 4.5-5.5" thick. I have hammered the old anchors through. I used air and vac with the original anchors, but out of OCD, I have now purchased a nylon 1.25" pipe cleaner and an 5" air wand attachment for my compressor. Since my old anchors are pound through, should I drop something in there to keep the epoxy from being wasted by filling the old anchor? Any recommendations for things found around the house like packing peanuts etc?
The reason why I was worried is because I hammered the original anchors into the ground. I am hoping the holes still have enough bite to hold the anchor to spec, but I am glad to hear that i can hold its own in the epoxy. Thanks!
skamp
Well-known member
You need to jam some stuff in the hole like you mentioned to prevent it all from oozing into the void below the concrete.
Steve
Steve
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
So as you read that it's normal for that stuff to be thick as hell and it keeps the anchor in place. However Gabe from Danmar recommended that I use a coffee filter to catch the excess below the slab. while I thought that was a little hokey I understand the concept.
My slab was a Builder grade 4 inch slab maybe optimistically 4 inches and then you got the blowout from when you busted through the concrete with the drill bit so who's to say that it was really more than 3 1/2 inches. it did hold cars. I only used it a couple times before we moved. if I do it again I will just probably dig out the concrete go to a seven or 8 inch depth and be done with it and feel a lot better about it because I always wondered.
My slab was a Builder grade 4 inch slab maybe optimistically 4 inches and then you got the blowout from when you busted through the concrete with the drill bit so who's to say that it was really more than 3 1/2 inches. it did hold cars. I only used it a couple times before we moved. if I do it again I will just probably dig out the concrete go to a seven or 8 inch depth and be done with it and feel a lot better about it because I always wondered.
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you don't have to try to fill the holes before you put the anchors in. Look at the design and you'll see that the goal is to have the epoxy bond and seal in between each section of the anchor. i stuffed mine a little so when i shot the epoxy in the hole it would hold up. but realistically, when you start to push the anchor down, he'll push the stuff further down.
like everyone else said get an epoxy caulk gun. amazon has them for $20. then apply epoxy to both the anchor and in the hole. the more important thing is to put a 1/8 washer and run a bolt all the way down the anchor. i used anti seez on the threads and then put masking tape at the top of the anchor. when you hammer down the anchor you'll see the stuff ooze up. you will end up with epoxy on your nice expensive anchor if you are not careful. not fun to clean. I bought the epoxy anchors from fastenals and epoxy from amazon.
like everyone else said get an epoxy caulk gun. amazon has them for $20. then apply epoxy to both the anchor and in the hole. the more important thing is to put a 1/8 washer and run a bolt all the way down the anchor. i used anti seez on the threads and then put masking tape at the top of the anchor. when you hammer down the anchor you'll see the stuff ooze up. you will end up with epoxy on your nice expensive anchor if you are not careful. not fun to clean. I bought the epoxy anchors from fastenals and epoxy from amazon.
I set the epoxy anchors last night using coffee filters. For people like me that drove the original PD58s into the ground, I have some advice. The wejet epoxy anchors are longer then the PD58s. I threaded the sacrifice bolt a few threads and pounded them into the ground and it wasnt enough. I had to go to homedepot to get a 8" 5/8 bolt to drive it just deep enough to fit the epoxy anchor. If you dont do this, I anticipate a frantic sledge hammering as the injectite awf has a very short working time.
Hope this helps someone. Ill be bolting them down and bleeding it again with the updated quick connects i got from dannmar. I will be sacrificing my B4000 for the Initial lift v2.
Hope this helps someone. Ill be bolting them down and bleeding it again with the updated quick connects i got from dannmar. I will be sacrificing my B4000 for the Initial lift v2.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Has anyone had any warranty work done on their MaxJax...
My one cylinder is leaking and I suspect that this is why it's always lifted at a delayed/angled lift... I checked under the cylinder and sure enough where the one seal is had hydraulic fluid on it.... My other cylinder is fine... but this one is clearly defective... Wondering how good their support is since Gabe isn't there and this has been about a solid year or two....
Thanks,
-Nigel
My one cylinder is leaking and I suspect that this is why it's always lifted at a delayed/angled lift... I checked under the cylinder and sure enough where the one seal is had hydraulic fluid on it.... My other cylinder is fine... but this one is clearly defective... Wondering how good their support is since Gabe isn't there and this has been about a solid year or two....
Thanks,
-Nigel
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
I believe it was a one year warranty. However , they sold me some quick disconnects for the diverter block that didn't come with it , per the directions. They were free but shipping was 25 bucks. So they weren't really anymore than going to TSC and getting them.
They weren't the nicer Parker fittings that came The lift originally. they were a Chinese brand. But, they were good to deal with.
They weren't the nicer Parker fittings that came The lift originally. they were a Chinese brand. But, they were good to deal with.
Got it installed and had the courage to bleed and lift the sacrificial pick up twice. I let it sit for about 40 mins at the first stop.
Finding lift points for a pick up when I set the columns at 129" was interesting. The arms are all the way extended and not as much of a V as i would like. Balancing the weight on the lift took a few tries also. All in all, it picked up my pickup with out breaking a sweat although i was nervous.
The replacement fittings they gave me didnt fit the male sides. They only have me the female sides. I had to use the drippy original ones.
Finding lift points for a pick up when I set the columns at 129" was interesting. The arms are all the way extended and not as much of a V as i would like. Balancing the weight on the lift took a few tries also. All in all, it picked up my pickup with out breaking a sweat although i was nervous.
The replacement fittings they gave me didnt fit the male sides. They only have me the female sides. I had to use the drippy original ones.
Well...., here's my story! made my purchase in august and had concrete poured. Today I began checking my parts inventory and was disappointed to find out that the maxjax lift is now only equiped with two quick disconnects for the posts. They have eliminated the quick fittings at the pump. Called Danmar and spoke with Miquel (who happens to be very pleasent and helpful) and he explained that the pump side fittings were eleminated due to uneven lifting issues. With three fittings at each post, I find that hard to believe. I tried to get them to make good with the pump side quick disconnects with negative results. I am happy about the larger square lifting pads and white fluid resevoir at the pump though. I was supposed to get a call back from the supervisor with regard to the disconnects but that hasnt happen yet from Danmar or GES.
I think for the $$ had the Triumph lift been avaialable when I pulled the trigger on this project, I would have gone with that..., probably more bang for the buck if you have the overhead clearence.
Anyone else receive two Quick disconnects as opposed to four?
I think for the $$ had the Triumph lift been avaialable when I pulled the trigger on this project, I would have gone with that..., probably more bang for the buck if you have the overhead clearence.
Anyone else receive two Quick disconnects as opposed to four?
wuck
Active member
Hey BB,
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that brass fittings aren't rated for hydraulic lift pressure, you need to get those out and replaced with proper steel fittings!
Pat
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
Agree !!!
When I got my maxjax 3 years ago I was going to use a brass fitting and the clerk at the local hydraulic hoses shop advised me against it.
No quick disconnects on my MaxJax purchased in December of 2013. For my setup, it wasn't needed or wanted.
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
I received 2 quick disconnects that I use at the columns. I do not know why you also want them at the pump. At the pump to make the hoses more "obedient" I used 90 degrees fittings, bought locally at an hydraulic shop.
When I bought the 90 degrees fittings the clerk advised me , just by experience, against using more than 1 quick disconnect in each hose.
More fittings more leaks.
I agree with the more fittings, more leaks. I think I will run the hoses directly into the columns and put the disconnects at the pump.
But this is all great info, just looking or some feedback. I have seen many setups with the the QD's at both sides.
Thanks!
But this is all great info, just looking or some feedback. I have seen many setups with the the QD's at both sides.
Thanks!
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
I though that I was missing extra disconnects at the fluid block. I couldn't find my manual and searched the web for a manual. I think I found maxjaxusa.com. The copy of the manual from that website was apparently an earlier version. I called GES and asked them based on that info. As it turns out, when I ordered they had already gone to quick disconnects at the post only. Oops....
I still paid 25 bucks for the couplers.
I still paid 25 bucks for the couplers.
Started setting up my anchors today and all was going well when 1 out of the 4 I completed started to pull out of the concrete.The othe three solid like a rock. What is typically recommended whn this occurs..., swap out all the wejits for epoxy or just swap the problematic anchor.
Any insight would be appreciated!
Chuck
Any insight would be appreciated!
Chuck
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
If you leave the hoses directly to the columns they are going very difficult to move
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
I would expoxy all anchors
I agree. Epoxy anchors all the way. The anchors they give are a huge waste of effort and time for the iffy feeling you get when using them.
Call Dannmar and order the epoxy anchor kit if you want an easy solution.
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
The Reason I wanted the extra disconnects at the pump was so I could hang the pump on the wall, and stow the hoses when not in use.
I twisted 3 out of 5 Anchors. I presume because my holes weren't exactly vertical. The epoxy is great unless you have the normal 4 inch concrete pad then you have to wonder how effective a 6" anchor in 3.5 to 4" of concrete really is. You keep reading and asking until you either convince yourself to repour the area , or say I'm sure it's good enough for midnight after three hours of dickin around.
I felt like there needs to be an option for epoxy in 4" of concrete that doesn't involve a coffee filter. Plus those epoxy anchors are expensive to have half of them sticking in the dirt.
When I had my old two post I used redheads that stuck out of the ground. They were rock solid. I am not a fan of those Wedjit anchors.
I twisted 3 out of 5 Anchors. I presume because my holes weren't exactly vertical. The epoxy is great unless you have the normal 4 inch concrete pad then you have to wonder how effective a 6" anchor in 3.5 to 4" of concrete really is. You keep reading and asking until you either convince yourself to repour the area , or say I'm sure it's good enough for midnight after three hours of dickin around.
I felt like there needs to be an option for epoxy in 4" of concrete that doesn't involve a coffee filter. Plus those epoxy anchors are expensive to have half of them sticking in the dirt.
When I had my old two post I used redheads that stuck out of the ground. They were rock solid. I am not a fan of those Wedjit anchors.
Well, for what its worth..., I have a brand new concrete slab that I had poured for this project and it is beween four and five inches thick. I got seven of the wej-it anchors to bite, but not without upward travel before really locking into the concrete. I used a small piece of pipe and washer to set the anchors and got them to between ninety five and one hundred foot pounds of torque and the anchors that set solid, set just below the concrete. The anchors that did not set were the three at the back of the post on the drivers side. They did finally grab, however they were above the concrete. So for the mechanical anchors, there's a reason why on the wej-it web site they recommend at least five inches and change to work properly.
The problem is the lift is marketed needing a minimum of four inch concrete with anchors that will probably need at least five.
Has anyone here successfully set the provided anchors in four inch concrete?
My Epoxy anchors for the three that didnt bite are on the way!
Should have went with six inches of concrete..., but I figured five would be enough!
The problem is the lift is marketed needing a minimum of four inch concrete with anchors that will probably need at least five.
Has anyone here successfully set the provided anchors in four inch concrete?
My Epoxy anchors for the three that didnt bite are on the way!
Should have went with six inches of concrete..., but I figured five would be enough!