In My Garage
Well-known member
Depends on the height of the vehicle you are lifting. Take that number and add 45 inches.
Maxjax Installs: Post Here
- Thread starter G-force
- Start date
Depends on the height of the vehicle you are lifting. Take that number and add 45 inches.
Chetter
Well-known member
Mine are 10ft high and I really like this lift, I've been out working on the car and the lift is a back saver for sure as well being able to lift and drop quickly while working on the car. I saw the post about the anti-chatter additive that I am going to get to add to mine.
stangman39
Well-known member
Question for everyone that has the MaxJax.
I'm in mid stages of planning to build my 24x28 (or maybe slightly larger).
I've thought down the line I'd get a Maxjax b/c I like the idea of being able to stick it in a corner when I'm not using it...which may not really be all that often.
However.....I'd also maybe like in the future to be able to lift one car and store another under it. Obviously this can't be done with the MaxJax.
My ceiling height is going to be 12' inside.
Are there other lift options that are movable and can be storage away when not in use? Since my garage isn't gonna be huge I don't really like the idea of a stationary lift that is gonna take up a bunch of space when not in use.
Thanks for the thoughts!
I'm in mid stages of planning to build my 24x28 (or maybe slightly larger).
I've thought down the line I'd get a Maxjax b/c I like the idea of being able to stick it in a corner when I'm not using it...which may not really be all that often.
However.....I'd also maybe like in the future to be able to lift one car and store another under it. Obviously this can't be done with the MaxJax.
My ceiling height is going to be 12' inside.
Are there other lift options that are movable and can be storage away when not in use? Since my garage isn't gonna be huge I don't really like the idea of a stationary lift that is gonna take up a bunch of space when not in use.
Thanks for the thoughts!
JakeKohl
Well-known member
I've been through this line of questioning myself - but I believe the MaxJax are getting close to the limit of "reasonable" in the heavy/maneuverability area. Anything larger would be difficult/unsafe to move around.
1949 caddyman
Well-known member
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=173655 I have been looking at these, haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Chetter
Well-known member
This is true, I have the MaxJax and though I wish it was a little higher, it still beats lying on my back on a creeper to work on the car. The post are heavy and when you are rolling them to store you better have a solid grip and safely balance it as you are moving so as not to have it get away, still I wouldn't be without it. I had no way of having anything else that is permanent or too large since my garage is not overly large. I still think it is a good value works very well. JMO.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Putting it to good use?
Was fixing up the lawn mower.. runs great now.
Anyone have tips or tricks on lifting a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2wd.... I've having a devil of a time trying to lift it even via front and back.. Almost seems like the maxjax arms don't go out far enough? I have my posts spaced at 125"... now I'm thinking that's too far apart? Works GREAT for the cars, figured it would be easier to lift the little truck, but now just having a pickle with it...
Thanks,
-Nigel
Was fixing up the lawn mower.. runs great now.
Anyone have tips or tricks on lifting a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2wd.... I've having a devil of a time trying to lift it even via front and back.. Almost seems like the maxjax arms don't go out far enough? I have my posts spaced at 125"... now I'm thinking that's too far apart? Works GREAT for the cars, figured it would be easier to lift the little truck, but now just having a pickle with it...
Thanks,
-Nigel
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
IONH
Well-known member
raceoholic330
New member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2008
- Messages
- 2
I just got done installing my MaxJax. I live in a newer residential community, so I was concerned about the concrete. Builder told me they spec out 4" depth of 3000psi concrete.
The day came for me to start the install of the lift. I rented a 30lb Rigid rotohammer with a brand spankin' new 7/8" bit. I decided to forego the 5/8" pilot hole. All the holes for the first post drilled out like a knife through butter. Super smooth and clean. I measured their depth and they were all just about exactly 4" deep, some slightly deeper. All the anchors set with not too much problem. I used oversized washers to torque them to 90 ft. lb ensuring they did indeed torque down without pulling up through the concrete. Three of the anchors pulled about 1/8" above the surface of the floor, but they did hold torque. I grinded them down smooth with the floor. It's worth mentioning that I coated the anchors in concrete epoxy before installing them, just as a form of extra insurance.
The issues came with the second post. All the holes drilled fine and they were all around the 4" mark. Some slightly less though by about maybe 1/8". That's where I ran into problems. I could not get the first two anchors to set. I didn't even bother with the other anchors, and I hammered the first two into the stone below. Got on the phone with Gabe and ordered five Wej-It epoxy anchors. They came a few days later. I used an entire tube of epoxy on each hole. I wanted to fill up the area below the concrete floor where the bottom of the anchor was protruding into the stone base. This would ensure that the anchor was absolutely secured to the walls of the holes but also to the bottom of the concrete floor. After waiting a day for the epoxy to dry, I tested all the anchors for pull-out. Every one held 90psi with no problems.
I also purchased more hydraulic hose from a local supplier to do a permanent install right away. After mounting the pump to the wall and installing all the hose, I hit the button to start the bleeding process. To my surprise, fluid started coming out the back of the diverter valve. I was back on the phone with Gabe, and he asked me to check if the o-ringed allen plugs were tight on the back side of the valve. It was very hard to even see them, but with the help of a flashlight I was able to tell that one plug was completely missing. Bingo...there's my leak. So, on the way is a o-ringed plug. Once I get that plug in, I can finally test the system. I'll get pictures up when that happens.
When in doubt about your concrete or the PD-58 anchors, get yourself a set of epoxy anchors. I really don't think you can go wrong with using them. The epoxy is amazingly strong. It's just important to make sure the holes are spotless. Or do what I did on the one post and use epoxy in conjunction with the PD-58 mechanical anchors. I'll feel better being under the car knowing that the anchors are basically chemically bonded to the concrete.
The day came for me to start the install of the lift. I rented a 30lb Rigid rotohammer with a brand spankin' new 7/8" bit. I decided to forego the 5/8" pilot hole. All the holes for the first post drilled out like a knife through butter. Super smooth and clean. I measured their depth and they were all just about exactly 4" deep, some slightly deeper. All the anchors set with not too much problem. I used oversized washers to torque them to 90 ft. lb ensuring they did indeed torque down without pulling up through the concrete. Three of the anchors pulled about 1/8" above the surface of the floor, but they did hold torque. I grinded them down smooth with the floor. It's worth mentioning that I coated the anchors in concrete epoxy before installing them, just as a form of extra insurance.
The issues came with the second post. All the holes drilled fine and they were all around the 4" mark. Some slightly less though by about maybe 1/8". That's where I ran into problems. I could not get the first two anchors to set. I didn't even bother with the other anchors, and I hammered the first two into the stone below. Got on the phone with Gabe and ordered five Wej-It epoxy anchors. They came a few days later. I used an entire tube of epoxy on each hole. I wanted to fill up the area below the concrete floor where the bottom of the anchor was protruding into the stone base. This would ensure that the anchor was absolutely secured to the walls of the holes but also to the bottom of the concrete floor. After waiting a day for the epoxy to dry, I tested all the anchors for pull-out. Every one held 90psi with no problems.
I also purchased more hydraulic hose from a local supplier to do a permanent install right away. After mounting the pump to the wall and installing all the hose, I hit the button to start the bleeding process. To my surprise, fluid started coming out the back of the diverter valve. I was back on the phone with Gabe, and he asked me to check if the o-ringed allen plugs were tight on the back side of the valve. It was very hard to even see them, but with the help of a flashlight I was able to tell that one plug was completely missing. Bingo...there's my leak. So, on the way is a o-ringed plug. Once I get that plug in, I can finally test the system. I'll get pictures up when that happens.
When in doubt about your concrete or the PD-58 anchors, get yourself a set of epoxy anchors. I really don't think you can go wrong with using them. The epoxy is amazingly strong. It's just important to make sure the holes are spotless. Or do what I did on the one post and use epoxy in conjunction with the PD-58 mechanical anchors. I'll feel better being under the car knowing that the anchors are basically chemically bonded to the concrete.
Hey all,
I've just ordered my Maxjax through Babco.ca today!
It's getting delivered next Friday and I'll be installing it on the Saturday. It cost me $2333.45, taxes and delivery to my driveway all included.
raceoholic330, interested in seeing your pics of the allen plug. I hope I don't run into any problems, but it's also good to know ahead in case you do.
And, of course, I'll take a LOT of pics of my install.
I've just ordered my Maxjax through Babco.ca today!
It's getting delivered next Friday and I'll be installing it on the Saturday. It cost me $2333.45, taxes and delivery to my driveway all included.
raceoholic330, interested in seeing your pics of the allen plug. I hope I don't run into any problems, but it's also good to know ahead in case you do.
And, of course, I'll take a LOT of pics of my install.
Hello all,
I received my maxjax yesterday and started work on installing it today and ran into some problems. Firstly, the 4" pad my builder promised me turns out to be 3". I've drilled 3 holes in different places and the are all 3"
Here's what i did today after lining the columns up.
1. Use a punch to make a small hole in the center of the bolt hole. i found this really helped prevent the drill bit from wandering.
2. using the 3/8 bit, drill a 2" hole.
3. Use the shop vac to **** out the dust and then follow it up with a good blast from an air gun.
4. switch to the 7/8 bit and drill all the way through the concrete.
5. **** out the dust, use a brush to clean the hole and then blast it out with the airgun.
6. install the sacrificial bolt and nut into the anchor. set the nut 16mm from the top of the anchor
7. Pound the anchor in until the nut touches the concrete. REmove the bolt and nut.
8. install a washer, nut and sacrificial bolt again. finger tighten the bolt into the anchor and the set the washer and nut finger tight against the concrete.
9. use a socket and ratchet to hold the head of the bolt still and turn the nut clockwise using a wrench. I found one turn would be difficult and the next turn would be easy. The anchor clearly isn't biting.
10. After 3 turns, the socket starts turning .. not the handle as I was hold onto that tight but the socket itself .. like the bolt was turning anti-clockwise.
11. tried remove the bolt but it just spins .. anchor hasn't bit at all
12. finally get the bolt out and the anchor is very loose up and down, barely any side to side movement, but very loose vertically.
At this point, I think I have a few options
1. Get the builder to rip up the pad and give me the 4" pad I had paid for. This is going to be tough, they are a hard builder to work with - pretty much everyone I spoke to had problems with them. Bet case - I see this dragging out for months and months. Worst case, they tell me to go pound sand. The house is 3.5 years old.
2. I cut out two 2x2x12 sections, tie into the existing pad using rebar and pay a contractor to come pour new concrete for me.
3. I pound the existing dodgy anchor all the way through, fill the hole up with 2-part anchor epoxy, install a new bolt 3/8" below the concrete, wait 24 hours for it to set and then try tightening it again.
I know #1 is the right option but it's not the best one. I am pretty sure to get anything out of the builder now, I will have to lawyer up and that will put a huge dent in my finances - not sure i can manage that right now.
the best option is #2, but again, it's expensive and it likely means i can't get my lift up for a few months while i save up, get the work done and wait for the concrete to set
my question is .. can i go for #3? I'm looking for your opinions and advise
I received my maxjax yesterday and started work on installing it today and ran into some problems. Firstly, the 4" pad my builder promised me turns out to be 3". I've drilled 3 holes in different places and the are all 3"
Here's what i did today after lining the columns up.
1. Use a punch to make a small hole in the center of the bolt hole. i found this really helped prevent the drill bit from wandering.
2. using the 3/8 bit, drill a 2" hole.
3. Use the shop vac to **** out the dust and then follow it up with a good blast from an air gun.
4. switch to the 7/8 bit and drill all the way through the concrete.
5. **** out the dust, use a brush to clean the hole and then blast it out with the airgun.
6. install the sacrificial bolt and nut into the anchor. set the nut 16mm from the top of the anchor
7. Pound the anchor in until the nut touches the concrete. REmove the bolt and nut.
8. install a washer, nut and sacrificial bolt again. finger tighten the bolt into the anchor and the set the washer and nut finger tight against the concrete.
9. use a socket and ratchet to hold the head of the bolt still and turn the nut clockwise using a wrench. I found one turn would be difficult and the next turn would be easy. The anchor clearly isn't biting.
10. After 3 turns, the socket starts turning .. not the handle as I was hold onto that tight but the socket itself .. like the bolt was turning anti-clockwise.
11. tried remove the bolt but it just spins .. anchor hasn't bit at all
12. finally get the bolt out and the anchor is very loose up and down, barely any side to side movement, but very loose vertically.
At this point, I think I have a few options
1. Get the builder to rip up the pad and give me the 4" pad I had paid for. This is going to be tough, they are a hard builder to work with - pretty much everyone I spoke to had problems with them. Bet case - I see this dragging out for months and months. Worst case, they tell me to go pound sand. The house is 3.5 years old.
2. I cut out two 2x2x12 sections, tie into the existing pad using rebar and pay a contractor to come pour new concrete for me.
3. I pound the existing dodgy anchor all the way through, fill the hole up with 2-part anchor epoxy, install a new bolt 3/8" below the concrete, wait 24 hours for it to set and then try tightening it again.
I know #1 is the right option but it's not the best one. I am pretty sure to get anything out of the builder now, I will have to lawyer up and that will put a huge dent in my finances - not sure i can manage that right now.
the best option is #2, but again, it's expensive and it likely means i can't get my lift up for a few months while i save up, get the work done and wait for the concrete to set
my question is .. can i go for #3? I'm looking for your opinions and advise
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DiscoBerry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2010
- Messages
- 84
lifting ford rangers is a pain cuz the frame rails are set so far in under the body
mercury26
Well-known member
4' x 4' x 12" will work fine, as you mentioned dowel the new footers into the existing slab. I used this method and has worked out fine. Also, the cost was less then $1,000 in my area and that included a new sidewalk from my house to my garage.
97dynaglide
Well-known member
I also recommend going 4'x4'x(at least 8"). Use epoxy anchors, don't fiddle around with Wej-its, and take the chance that they won't bite the next time. Epoxy is the way to go.
As far as #3 goes, I wouldn't try this. I had to re-pour a section of my floor, hated to wait, but in the end, it was well worth the piece of mind to have it done right.
As far as #3 goes, I wouldn't try this. I had to re-pour a section of my floor, hated to wait, but in the end, it was well worth the piece of mind to have it done right.
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mercury26
Well-known member
Agreed on Epoxy, I used epoxy anchors with my 4' x 4" x 12" footers. Epoxy is the way to go.
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
I spy a Moss sticker.
Correct
When I started drilling holes for my MaxJax, I found the floor slab was about 2-3/4" in one area. Because the floor also had a crack about 4" from where one anchor would be, I decided to have new footers installed.
I went with 4'x'4 x12" footers using a 5000psi mix with fiberglas. Rebar was added in the footer and tied in with the existing slab. I also used the longer 7" epoxy anchors.
The only problem so far with my MaxJax is leaky hose fittings. The supplied quick-disconnect fittings seem to be the big issue. I have tried teflon tape, liquid teflon, and pipe thread sealant making sure to completely clean both the male and female threads every time I try to stop the leaks. So far nothing has worked, so I may wind up buying better QD fittings at a local hydraulic equipment shop.
I went with 4'x'4 x12" footers using a 5000psi mix with fiberglas. Rebar was added in the footer and tied in with the existing slab. I also used the longer 7" epoxy anchors.
The only problem so far with my MaxJax is leaky hose fittings. The supplied quick-disconnect fittings seem to be the big issue. I have tried teflon tape, liquid teflon, and pipe thread sealant making sure to completely clean both the male and female threads every time I try to stop the leaks. So far nothing has worked, so I may wind up buying better QD fittings at a local hydraulic equipment shop.
demoderbydave
Well-known member
Sorry - Washington DC metro area - inside the beltway but in Bethesda, MD
lol, sorry, I assumed it gave my address in the profile
I was talking to the supplier today and they informed me the MAXXJAXX is on backorder and they are only able to take pre-sales right now.
So, you can get a new jack, NOW and save money...they are even willing to try and help getting their shipping co involved to reduce costs. All I have to do is mount it on a pallet again.
lol, sorry, I assumed it gave my address in the profile
I was talking to the supplier today and they informed me the MAXXJAXX is on backorder and they are only able to take pre-sales right now.
So, you can get a new jack, NOW and save money...they are even willing to try and help getting their shipping co involved to reduce costs. All I have to do is mount it on a pallet again.
JakeKohl
Well-known member
After ensuring proper concrete thickness, would any of you hesitate to install Maxjax on a tiled garage floor or would you be too worried that the tile would crack (or some other issue)?
In My Garage
Well-known member
I would lay the tile around the base of the MaxJax instead. Some tile can be had with rounded edges if you need to roll the MaxJax onto them.
Also, I would not want the tile and cement attaching the tile to your concrete floor to be part of the anchoring process.
JakeKohl
Well-known member
As far as anchors go, care would be taken to ensure that the anchors are in the concrete and not the tile/thinset. My slab thickness is nearly 6" so I was planning to use epoxy anchors so I could set their depth with precision. I just can't decide if I would trust the thinset under that much compression. I am leaning toward having an aluminum plate made to serve as a mounting base for the maxjax so the tile and and the maxjax base can be flush while also giving the lift a solid surface to mount to.
In My Garage
Well-known member
Sort of what I did, except I TIG welded my own SS anchors to a SS plate...and set the assembly in concrete.
Thanks to everyone in this thread for the ideas about Maxjax installs, I have finally started using mine after finishing (more or less) a house and garage remodel. Since the garage was open to the studs, I took the liberty of running a 10' length of 2" ABS pipe with large radius 90o bends on it along a ceiling joist so I could put the hose to the far column in the ceiling. Also added an extra 10 foot hose and three sets of the zero-loss flush-face hose couplers:
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ISO_16028_Couplers_br_complete_sets_p/ht-set.htm
And mounted the pump on the wall. Columns are mounted at 132", works great with my daily driver and the current race project:
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ISO_16028_Couplers_br_complete_sets_p/ht-set.htm
And mounted the pump on the wall. Columns are mounted at 132", works great with my daily driver and the current race project:
jarhead
Well-known member
Dang, 46 pages I think I am sold...
dmeadow
Well-known member
FWIW, I installed mine over my porcelain tile and epoxied the anchors. No issues with cracking, though I ensured the tile was back buttered so there are no voids under it. I set the anchors below the thinset.
plain garage
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2014
- Messages
- 198
I'm looking to add the Max Jax to my garage. I looked over this thread but still have a couple of questions. From your experience, how long can you leave the car on the lift resting on safety bars? Also, if you disconnect the hydraulic hoses, will you need to re-bleed the lines again next time?
In My Garage
Well-known member
Indefinitely.
You should not have to. Some owners including myself have had issues with the supplied couplers. Sometimes they would leak when disconnected. I had enough of those and bought some flat face couplers by Faster. These do not leak and are near dry when disconnected.
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Yep this is a superior thread... Helped me GREATLY when I installed my Maxjax.. I some of the best advice has already been said along with Alex's recommendations on the couplers. I also would add that I drilled two extra holes in the lift pillars one below the lowest factory point and a point in between the stock two mounting positions. that along has made the maxjax way more useful to me. Especially is one is changing tires it doesn't need to go that high or if the highest setting is too high for certain jobs like brakes..etc. I use the middle setting that I drilled the most.
-Nigel
-Nigel
Indefinitely.
You should not have to. Some owners including myself have had issues with the supplied couplers. Sometimes they would leak when disconnected. I had enough of those and bought some flat face couplers by Faster. These do not leak and are near dry when disconnected.
What he said ^
And I have the safety bars as such...I actually leave the lift at the highest point that my ceiling allows, the safety bars are the in the event it ever goes down....not once has it done that.
And mine came with those couplers...no issues with having to bleed anything after the initial setup is done.
You are going to love that lift.
My most recent project:
Last edited:
plain garage
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2014
- Messages
- 198
Indefinitely.
You should not have to. Some owners including myself have had issues with the supplied couplers. Sometimes they would leak when disconnected. I had enough of those and bought some flat face couplers by Faster. These do not leak and are near dry when disconnected.
Great. I plan to tackle a clutch job for starters, sounds like it will have no problem holding the car in the air for a few days/week. Thanks for the tip on the quality QD.
Yep this is a superior thread... Helped me GREATLY when I installed my Maxjax.. I some of the best advice has already been said along with Alex's recommendations on the couplers. I also would add that I drilled two extra holes in the lift pillars one below the lowest factory point and a point in between the stock two mounting positions. that along has made the maxjax way more useful to me. Especially is one is changing tires it doesn't need to go that high or if the highest setting is too high for certain jobs like brakes..etc. I use the middle setting that I drilled the most.
-Nigel
To be honest, the 2 position locking limit is a big drawback, why can't Max Jax have an auto lock feature every few inches just like all the other lifts? What size drill did you use for the extra holes? Does it affect the strength of the columns at all?
What he said ^
And I have the safety bars as such...I actually leave the lift at the highest point that my ceiling allows, the safety bars are the in the event it ever goes down....not once has it done that.
And mine came with those couplers...no issues with having to bleed anything after the initial setup is done.
You are going to love that lift.
My most recent project:
I'm excited about getting the lift, it will ship in a couple of weeks. What is the best way to determine column width? Should the lift arms be at 90 degree angle to each other, etc?
In My Garage
Well-known member
They do not have to be.
The arm position will depend on how you located the car fore and aft within the columns depending if you want to center it about the CoG or equally about the jack points.
MaxJax recommends centering the car about the CoG, or as near as possible so that there are not fore and aft moments.
Yes, definitely look into getting those upgraded couplers. I used to have to wear gloves and use a paper towel to catch the drips every time I disconnected the hoses. When they started leaking oil just coiled up on the back of the pump stand, I decided to get the flat face couplers, which solved the leak problems for me.
I'll add my $0.02 to this discussion...
1) Consider using ISO 32 hydraulic oil instead of transmission fluid. ATF stinks; hydraulic oil is odorless.
2) If you get a leak around the fill plug on the plastic oil reservoir (I did), wrap the plug threads with a little Teflon tape.
3) if you do the install, make sure you inspect and remove any Teflon tape or goop from the threads at the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders. See photo of the threads when I removed the plug from a replacement cylinder. That kind of thing can clog the screens in the cylinder and cause uneven lift behavior.
4) Consider getting 1 or 2 jack stands to stabilize the car, particularly if you are doing anything major like removing a rear engine or transmission that changes the weight distribution. I got two of THESE from Greg Smith Equipment
I done many lifts with zero issues. I have a one of those magnetic post levelers on each post just for piece of mind to monitor any deflection and after a year, not one bit of movement.
The MaxJax is one of the best tools I've purchased.
I'll add my $0.02 to this discussion...
1) Consider using ISO 32 hydraulic oil instead of transmission fluid. ATF stinks; hydraulic oil is odorless.
2) If you get a leak around the fill plug on the plastic oil reservoir (I did), wrap the plug threads with a little Teflon tape.
3) if you do the install, make sure you inspect and remove any Teflon tape or goop from the threads at the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders. See photo of the threads when I removed the plug from a replacement cylinder. That kind of thing can clog the screens in the cylinder and cause uneven lift behavior.
4) Consider getting 1 or 2 jack stands to stabilize the car, particularly if you are doing anything major like removing a rear engine or transmission that changes the weight distribution. I got two of THESE from Greg Smith Equipment
I done many lifts with zero issues. I have a one of those magnetic post levelers on each post just for piece of mind to monitor any deflection and after a year, not one bit of movement.
The MaxJax is one of the best tools I've purchased.
plain garage
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2014
- Messages
- 198
I have not corner weighed my car, but it does have 50/50 distribution, so hopefully that simplifies positioning the arms. My friend is getting a 997 GT3, in your opinion, will the columns at 128" or 130" fit when lifting by CoG? Is the max extended arm length 40" or 44", I keep reading different numbers.
Yes, definitely look into getting those upgraded couplers. I used to have to wear gloves and use a paper towel to catch the drips every time I disconnected the hoses. When they started leaking oil just coiled up on the back of the pump stand, I decided to get the flat face couplers, which solved the leak problems for me.
I'll add my $0.02 to this discussion...
1) Consider using ISO 32 hydraulic oil instead of transmission fluid. ATF stinks; hydraulic oil is odorless.
2) If you get a leak around the fill plug on the plastic oil reservoir (I did), wrap the plug threads with a little Teflon tape.
3) if you do the install, make sure you inspect and remove any Teflon tape or goop from the threads at the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders. See photo of the threads when I removed the plug from a replacement cylinder. That kind of thing can clog the screens in the cylinder and cause uneven lift behavior.
4) Consider getting 1 or 2 jack stands to stabilize the car, particularly if you are doing anything major like removing a rear engine or transmission that changes the weight distribution. I got two of THESE from Greg Smith Equipment
I done many lifts with zero issues. I have a one of those magnetic post levelers on each post just for piece of mind to monitor any deflection and after a year, not one bit of movement.
The MaxJax is one of the best tools I've purchased.
Great pointers there. Regarding the jack, what is the actual lift pad height at 24" and 40" stops? Will the Greg smith jack fit within the whole range?
Dinner just called, it is shipping today.
I have to do some homework on drilling concrete floor now.From their website:
Minimum height - 30"
Maximum height - 53"
The vast majority of under lift jack stands are much too high for the MaxJax. These should work at the higher MaxJax height. However, I'd wait to order these until you have your car up on the lift and you can measure floor-chassis distance to make sure these jack stands will fit under there. If you have the ceiling height, you can also use the spacers provided to get a few extra inches of lift height.
Minimum height - 30"
Maximum height - 53"
The vast majority of under lift jack stands are much too high for the MaxJax. These should work at the higher MaxJax height. However, I'd wait to order these until you have your car up on the lift and you can measure floor-chassis distance to make sure these jack stands will fit under there. If you have the ceiling height, you can also use the spacers provided to get a few extra inches of lift height.
plain garage
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2014
- Messages
- 198
Yes, that's the confusing part. On Max Jax's website, it says max lift 45" to 48" (with 3" adaptor). Since the lift will be here next week, I made a quick shopping list for prep work
p Amazon prime!) Thanks to all that contributed to this great thread, especially those who took time to answer my questions. I hope someone finds this list helpful down the road.:cheers:Attachments
Vegaman_Dan
Well-known member
I priced those jack stands from Greg's and they are a good size, good price, but **ONLY** If you can go to their store and pick them up in person. If you pay for shipping, it's as much as the stand itself, so figure you'll be paying around $225 or so total for two stands.
For that price, I can get full height stands locally and cut down the base to the size I want and save a lot in the process.
If there was a Greg's outlet near, I'd go with them. If not, I'll take a full size stand and cut it down to fit.
I just found that out when trying to order them... no local store, closest one is in Miami... some 200.00 with shipping and tax