MaxJax Lift Installed
- Thread starter regguy1
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Ender-DI
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Wow, that looks great!
padronanniversary
Well-known member
how much did that run you ? My big problem is my garage door. The rails come much lower. I need to get them to run it up to the ceiling.
sammm
Well-known member
Nice....where are you hiding the controls? Can you disco them once the car is up in the air?
Dan5602896
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What width did you set your posts at?
I picked my lift up Wednesday night. Bought it also with the last group buy. Now that my inspections are done for the garage I can get on with insulating and wall boarding. If things go well, maybe in 3 weeks I'll be installing my lift.
I picked my lift up Wednesday night. Bought it also with the last group buy. Now that my inspections are done for the garage I can get on with insulating and wall boarding. If things go well, maybe in 3 weeks I'll be installing my lift.
After some consideration I set them at 120" (outside to outside baseplate)
That was good for my cars and I have a Nissan Frontier Pickup and it was good for it also.
I copied and pasted this from another post I made, I had some issues with the anchor installation this might be of help during your install:
Here's the update, I've got the lift installed and running. It looks like a nice unit. The power unit is quieter than I thought it would be. Installation was straight forward.
I think setting of the anchors is the most critical part of the installation procedure. A couple of things I'll mention from my experience of this one installation. Let me say this first, I'm not a pro lift installer and the following are my opinions only. Drill the holes as per instructions. Do a through job of cleaning the holes. Even though the supplied anchors (Wej-It PD58) are not specificly epoxy style units I'd recommend using a good quality epoxy for additional integrity of anchor bond to concrete. I coated the hole and the exterior of anchors before driving them in. Drive them the 5/8" below concrete as instructions call for, I wouldn't go less.
Now thread the sacraficial bolt with washer and nut finger tight into the anchor, hold the bolt head (you do not want the anchor to rotate in the hole) and tighten the nut to set the anchor, the lift instruction booklet says tighen until anchor is flush with the concrete surface.....The instructions that came in the box of anchors say no more than 4 turns for the 5/8" bolts size. I found that at about 3 turns I could feel the anchors bite hard into the concrete even though they were still 1/8" -3/16" below the surface of floor. I think it's fine (and even preferable) to leave them slightly down because when you tighten the bolts to the base plate if the anchor is not holding properly you'll realize it when torquing the bolts, but with the anchor flush it can contact the bottom of the base plate and feel tight even though not fully anchored in the hole.
Page 13 step 14 of the lift installation manual tells you to install anchor bolts to base plate and tighten 3 to 3 3/4 turns. I believe this is in error, the anchors have already been set with the bolt and nut procedure. These bolts should be torqued betweem 70-95 Ft Lbs according to Wej-it (95) and Dannmar (70).
I found it impossible to get 3+ turns after anchors were set and it caused a couple anchors to pull up (perhaps they rotated in the hole and lost grip ?) and I have to replace them.
I like the lift, it will be very useful in my shop.
I hope this is helpful.
**********************************************************
This was from this post, have pictures of the epoxy I used:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69059&page=2
Dan5602896
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I've been researching the anchor issue. Your thread was part of my research. I'm not afraid of a mechanical anchor, just need to use the correct procedures. However, in researching, I came across some discussion at another forum.
Ponchopower was the person here who raised the cautions regarding procedures. I found he had posted at the other forum with additional info from Wej-it. They ended up sending him anchors specifically made for epoxy installation. I'm considering using those instead. Other sites have cautioned using epoxy with a none epoxy specific anchor.
I posted a message to Ponchopower hoping he could expound some more on those anchors. But, I have not heard anything back yet.
You can see the anchors here: http://www.g-machines.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65690&page=2
It is the 5th post down the page. They are Wej-it # PSS-58. Not inexpensive when you add the epoxy but, it would be a nice option for when one orders the Maxjax.
My floor was poured as a 6", 4000 lbs mix, so I'm not worried about depth. Just need to drill the hole without error.
One other thing Poncho noted at the other forum was leaks. He was having a problem with the fittings. Has anyone else had problems?
Ponchopower was the person here who raised the cautions regarding procedures. I found he had posted at the other forum with additional info from Wej-it. They ended up sending him anchors specifically made for epoxy installation. I'm considering using those instead. Other sites have cautioned using epoxy with a none epoxy specific anchor.
I posted a message to Ponchopower hoping he could expound some more on those anchors. But, I have not heard anything back yet.
You can see the anchors here: http://www.g-machines.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65690&page=2
It is the 5th post down the page. They are Wej-it # PSS-58. Not inexpensive when you add the epoxy but, it would be a nice option for when one orders the Maxjax.
My floor was poured as a 6", 4000 lbs mix, so I'm not worried about depth. Just need to drill the hole without error.
One other thing Poncho noted at the other forum was leaks. He was having a problem with the fittings. Has anyone else had problems?
dmeadow
Well-known member
I read through that thread and several others on this forum. I picked up my MaxJax today and read through the instructions. I believe they have been updated in at least a couple of places since they don't match up with what people have said the instructions say.
For one thing, the instructions now tell you to use 9 quarts of ATF. Earlier people mentioned being told to use 7, which wasn't enough.
The anchor instructions do not seem to match the description that ponchopower gives in the thread noted above. They are a more detailed version of the Wej-it instructions. The Wej-it manufacturer's instructions are also reproduced in the instruction manual now (identical to the bottom-right section of the .pdf file linked in the thread).
There is still a point in the instructions where you are told to turn the bolt 3 to 3 3/4 turns after you put them through the base plate and to bolt down the column. As regguy1 discovered, this is apparently incorrect and can cause you to pull up the anchors if you actually exert enough force to get to that amount of turns (regguy1 thinks he put 300 lbs on them to get them to move that much!).
FlameOut
Well-known member
Looks great! You are going to love it. You'll wonder how you got by without a lift. I was in on the first group buy last year and couldn't imagine not having a lift. By far it's the best investment I made in my garage. My MaxJax has already paid for itself just in the time it has saved me during the restoration of my Chevelle
Dan5602896
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Yes, I would not encourage anyone to be setting the mechanical anchors with the posts in place. Better to follow the Wej-it instructions and set the anchor below the surface of the floor. The Wej-it instructions are basically saying to use the nut and washer on the bolt as a depth gage stop against the floor.
I checked the price of the PSS-58, $82 apiece. Poncho got a real gift from Wej-it. However, the carbon steel units, PS2-58 are only $18 each. 26K lbs tensil rating. Much higher than the PD58's are 14.8K. Certainly enough, but nothing like over engineering.
My only question is the minimum depth listed for each anchor. Both are far deeper than the 4" min concrete depth for the Maxjax. I assume drilling through is no problem?
I already have friends wanting to get on a list for lift time.
I checked the price of the PSS-58, $82 apiece. Poncho got a real gift from Wej-it. However, the carbon steel units, PS2-58 are only $18 each. 26K lbs tensil rating. Much higher than the PD58's are 14.8K. Certainly enough, but nothing like over engineering.
My only question is the minimum depth listed for each anchor. Both are far deeper than the 4" min concrete depth for the Maxjax. I assume drilling through is no problem?
I already have friends wanting to get on a list for lift time.
padronanniversary
Well-known member
what is the min thickness concrete that is required for these lifts ?
Dan5602896
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4", 3000 lbs mix.
Dan5602896 Asked:
"One other thing Poncho noted at the other forum was leaks. He was having a problem with the fittings. Has anyone else had problems? "
I had one leak at the adapter sleeve at base of Hyd. cylinder, I took it apart cleaned thread on wire wheel and put on new teflon tape. I have zero leaks now. I think I added some tape on all the connections over what the factory put on. You should be able to make it leak free.
One more thing about the anchors, after I set all the anchors I let the epoxy cure overnight then took 2 large sockets, set them on each side of the anchor and used 2 large washers and the 4" bolt then torque tested each one to 90 ft lbs. This way I could see any pull up
The epoxy set ones are like a rock in the floor, If you do this with the base plate down you can't see if there's movement. I feel very confident having tested each one this way.
"One other thing Poncho noted at the other forum was leaks. He was having a problem with the fittings. Has anyone else had problems? "
I had one leak at the adapter sleeve at base of Hyd. cylinder, I took it apart cleaned thread on wire wheel and put on new teflon tape. I have zero leaks now. I think I added some tape on all the connections over what the factory put on. You should be able to make it leak free.
One more thing about the anchors, after I set all the anchors I let the epoxy cure overnight then took 2 large sockets, set them on each side of the anchor and used 2 large washers and the 4" bolt then torque tested each one to 90 ft lbs. This way I could see any pull up
The epoxy set ones are like a rock in the floor, If you do this with the base plate down you can't see if there's movement. I feel very confident having tested each one this way.
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Dan5602896
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Thanks Regguy 1, I'm sure your lift is anchored well after reading what you went through.
Boy, imagine installing such tools without the aid of the internet. If only I had it back in college.
Boy, imagine installing such tools without the aid of the internet. If only I had it back in college.
padronanniversary
Well-known member
hmm. I have no clue what my rating is. Its a new home. I wonder what the standard is out here in MN ?
UPSHIFT
Well-known member
padronanniversary,
You can check with your local Building and Safety for that info on the concrete, most all concrete in homes is 3000psi in Garage area and the lower grade concrete is used on Driveways and Sidewalks (2500PSI). With the Cold temperature in MN I would imagine your slab is 3500psi min. 5" thick.
FYI, Costco also sells the MaxJax $1899.00 Incl Freight
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...=61837&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&Sp=C&topnav=
I'm posting these photos for Kevin54 as per his request, he wanted to see the headroom with the MaxJax.
You can increase the height of the vehicle with the 3" adapters that come with it. I've also cut several wood blocks and they can also be used to add height.
I used a 2"x4" and a 3/4" block on the front because the 3" adapter wouldn't fit the lower clearance of this car.
It's not bad to work on the roller seat at this height...you can hit your head on some things, but you can also do that with a stand up lift.
I've included photos of stands I bought that are quite handy for holding / lifting up components while working under this lift.
I'm making 2 posts so I can included additional photos. Next post on page 2
Link to stands her if anyone is interested:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HT52008&PhotoNumber=4#largerphoto
You can increase the height of the vehicle with the 3" adapters that come with it. I've also cut several wood blocks and they can also be used to add height.
I used a 2"x4" and a 3/4" block on the front because the 3" adapter wouldn't fit the lower clearance of this car.
It's not bad to work on the roller seat at this height...you can hit your head on some things, but you can also do that with a stand up lift.
I've included photos of stands I bought that are quite handy for holding / lifting up components while working under this lift.
I'm making 2 posts so I can included additional photos. Next post on page 2
Link to stands her if anyone is interested:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HT52008&PhotoNumber=4#largerphoto
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Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Thanks regguy1 for taking the time to post those up. That gives me a very good perspective as to the room under one. It would work great in my garage. Looks to be the perfect height for sitting underneath without having to lean over any. Thanks again for posting the pics 
I think that is the route I will have to go in my garage 
I think that is the route I will have to go in my garage ct71rr
Well-known member
Regguy1, how high is your ceiling?
Chevy Guy
Well-known member
So the epoxy anchors rely solely on the epoxy for the grip to the garage floor? There is no mechanical binding at all?
They actually sound like a better option than what comes with the max jax. Id like to see a close up shot of the standard anchors as well.
They actually sound like a better option than what comes with the max jax. Id like to see a close up shot of the standard anchors as well.
aqr81
Well-known member
Regguy1 that really looks good. The pics really helped me get a much better feel for just what this option would provide. I appreciate you posting the pics. Nice garage.
bsaint
Well-known member
That looks excellent.
murph78
Member
regguy1 thanks a million for the info and the pics. You have a great garage. I was concerned about the height, my garage is 8' 9" and now I have no worries after seeing how much room you have for lifting....
demoderbydave
Well-known member
Hi everyone...
I found this groupwhile doing my research on the Maxjax. I bought one and installed it and I LOVE IT!
I plan to leave one column bolted to the floor...it is mounted pretty close to the wall and move the other one out of the way when not in use. My question is (bear in mind I am not a hydraulic expert or for that manner an expert in anything other than plugging a toilet) do the hoses that plug in from the "power unit" have to be equal length for this to operate properly?
I would like to mount the power unit on the wall close to the stationary column and run a hose up and along the ceiling to the other one. Primarily to avoid tripping over them and to have a more "professional" looking shop. When not in use I would figure out a way to secure it to the ceiling out of the way.
My thoughts are car brakes are hydraulic and have uneven line lengths and operate properly...I dont know abouth the PSI involved ect however
Also if anyone is contemplating buying one and would like to see one ( in central Massachusetts let me know)
Thanks in advance,
Dave
I found this groupwhile doing my research on the Maxjax. I bought one and installed it and I LOVE IT!
I plan to leave one column bolted to the floor...it is mounted pretty close to the wall and move the other one out of the way when not in use. My question is (bear in mind I am not a hydraulic expert or for that manner an expert in anything other than plugging a toilet) do the hoses that plug in from the "power unit" have to be equal length for this to operate properly?
I would like to mount the power unit on the wall close to the stationary column and run a hose up and along the ceiling to the other one. Primarily to avoid tripping over them and to have a more "professional" looking shop. When not in use I would figure out a way to secure it to the ceiling out of the way.
My thoughts are car brakes are hydraulic and have uneven line lengths and operate properly...I dont know abouth the PSI involved ect however
Also if anyone is contemplating buying one and would like to see one ( in central Massachusetts let me know)
Thanks in advance,
Dave
I've got three questions to throw out there.
1) I would like to move one post further away than what it is at now. I may have screwed up the installation of the anchor bolts on this post. Any ideas on how far away the new set of five holes should be? I've got it drilled at 120" and I'm thinking about 5" further out.
2) Instruction say use WD-40 to lubricate the post slides. I would think that a grease would be much better. Any thoughts on this?
3) I'm working with company on a problem of lift. I've got everything installed but one post lifts higher than the other by almost 2" at the top. So much so that when I raise the car all the way up, one post max's out but the other is short of where it is suppose to be and I can't get the safety bar in. If I continue operating the pump the low side comes up and I can insert the safety bar, but I'm wondering about the pressure on that other side that has max out. I've tried bleeding several times no help. When I switch hoses the problem just switches sides. I've removed the quick disconnects and connected direct to the splitter unit. Thinking that maybe it was a quick disconnect problem. NO help there either.
Thanks
Bill
1) I would like to move one post further away than what it is at now. I may have screwed up the installation of the anchor bolts on this post. Any ideas on how far away the new set of five holes should be? I've got it drilled at 120" and I'm thinking about 5" further out.
2) Instruction say use WD-40 to lubricate the post slides. I would think that a grease would be much better. Any thoughts on this?
3) I'm working with company on a problem of lift. I've got everything installed but one post lifts higher than the other by almost 2" at the top. So much so that when I raise the car all the way up, one post max's out but the other is short of where it is suppose to be and I can't get the safety bar in. If I continue operating the pump the low side comes up and I can insert the safety bar, but I'm wondering about the pressure on that other side that has max out. I've tried bleeding several times no help. When I switch hoses the problem just switches sides. I've removed the quick disconnects and connected direct to the splitter unit. Thinking that maybe it was a quick disconnect problem. NO help there either.
Thanks
Bill
UPSHIFT
Well-known member
chrommagman
Well-known member
Sweet lift!!
I couldn't use it tho, I am 6'3" and only 17. at school I have to crouch when I use the full size lifts
I couldn't use it tho, I am 6'3" and only 17. at school I have to crouch when I use the full size lifts
UPSHIFT
Well-known member
Regguy,
Love it.. Thanks for your continued support, it is greatly appreciated by our entire crew..
Gabe,
Dannmar
UPSHIFT
Well-known member
Sweet lift!!
I couldn't use it tho, I am 6'3" and only 17. at school I have to crouch when I use the full size lifts
No Worries Chromemagman.. Man I wish I had your height problem..
Please remind my GJ MaxJax cridicts that this lift is designed to be moveable and or for a 8' ceiling height. Most cars are 48" tall and that only allows you to lift the car 42-46 " and jack stands go how high ?!..
Upshift..
AKA
Gabe,
Dannmar
chrommagman
Well-known member
No Worries Chromemagman.. Man I wish I had your height problem..
Please remind my GJ MaxJax cridicts that this lift is designed to be moveable and or for a 8' ceiling height. Most cars are 48" tall and that only allows you to lift the car 42-46 " and jack stands go how high ?!..
Upshift..
AKA
Gabe,
Dannmar
true!! it does beat jack stands
hopefully at the tec school that I am going to go to this year has taller lifts
but I if not oh well