MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison

[morozo]

Hey guys, I am new to the board and just purchased a MaxJax. I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction...I installed the lift myself and I've loaded a car on it to bleed it. However, the lifting arms on either side have a big mismatch so the car leans to one side. I've tried to bleed the air out and bunch of other things but it really is not working. Also, I've noticed one of the cylinders seems to be leaking at the bleed screw up on top.

When I was trying to troubleshoot the issue, I noticed that sometimes one lifting arm is higher than the other and then at other times, the other lifting arm is higher. I'm talking with the tech support over at Dannmarr but I am really confused. Has anyone encountered this issue?

 

[540i6]

...sometimes one lifting arm is higher than the other and then at other times, the other lifting arm is higher...

Had the same issue, the problem for me was that there was still air in the system. You definitely don't want your car on the lift while bleeding or before your system is fully bled. The bleeding screw leaking is probably due to the screw not being tight enough. I had to bleed the system A LOT of times, maybe 20-30 until there was finally no or nearly no air in the system. Only then it started to lift evenly, although it's not perfect every time, but close enough. I usually lift it all the way with nothing on the lift, let the air out, lower the lift and repeat until there is no air. As I mentioned, takes me usually 20-30 times. When done you definitely don't want to touch the quick disconnects unless absolutely necessary, otherwise the air will be reintroduced.

 

[UPSHIFT]

Hey guys, I am new to the board and just purchased a MaxJax. I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction...I installed the lift myself and I've loaded a car on it to bleed it. However, the lifting arms on either side have a big mismatch so the car leans to one side. I've tried to bleed the air out and bunch of other things but it really is not working. Also, I've noticed one of the cylinders seems to be leaking at the bleed screw up on top.

When I was trying to troubleshoot the issue, I noticed that sometimes one lifting arm is higher than the other and then at other times, the other lifting arm is higher. I'm talking with the tech support over at Dannmarr but I am really confused. Has anyone encountered this issue?

morozo,

Not sure if we talked today ? If you are lifting the unit without a load it is possible the arms will not go up even. The Hydraulic Flow Divider is pressure driven and without a load she will act up, I would bleed the unit one time at full height unloaded and place a small car on the lift and raise to full height and bottom her out at the top, install the safety pins in the case of a bleeder screw failing and bleed one more time and that should do it. If you are getting air in the system it is usually from leaks. If you purchased the lift before Feb 2011 we had 4 Quick Disconnect Fittings on the unit. We have since changed the design and only have Q/D Fittings on the cylinder side reducing the bottle neck of fluid going into the flow divider. The existing fittings on the MaxJax hose will thread directly into the flow divider. Also be sure if you have Hydraulic Oil in the lift vs. ATF keep the temp in the garage in the 60 degrees F as HYD oil will get thicker in cold weather.. BRRRRR. If ANYONE is experiencing uneven lifting with the MaxJax please call me as I am eager to fix your dilemmas. Greatly Appreciate your business !!

Gabe @ 877-432-6627 X 126 [email protected]

 

[regguy1]

Had the same issue, the problem for me was that there was still air in the system. You definitely don't want your car on the lift while bleeding or before your system is fully bled. The bleeding screw leaking is probably due to the screw not being tight enough. I had to bleed the system A LOT of times, maybe 20-30 until there was finally no or nearly no air in the system. Only then it started to lift evenly, although it's not perfect every time, but close enough. I usually lift it all the way with nothing on the lift, let the air out, lower the lift and repeat until there is no air. As I mentioned, takes me usually 20-30 times. When done you definitely don't want to touch the quick disconnects unless absolutely necessary, otherwise the air will be reintroduced.

I remove my hose fitting often and haven't had any problems with air getting in. The fittings have check valves in them......I do lose a couple drops of oil but never any air sucked back in.

 

[skamp]

I know a lot of you were interested in a group buy. Well here is your chance. See this thread for details.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135311

Steve

 

[les_garten]

I've got my MaxJax hoses I never used. Had custom length hoses made.

Anybody interested in them for a fair price?

Les

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I know this is an old thread but awesome!! I can't wait to install my Max Jax here shortly in our garage! Great information as far as installation.. Very clear and great pictures!

thank you,
-Nigel

 

[Denee007]

Congratulations! I hope you post some before and after pictures!

I know this is an old thread but awesome!! I can't wait to install my Max Jax here shortly in our garage! Great information as far as installation.. Very clear and great pictures!

thank you,
-Nigel

 

[Rodbuilder]

Very cool, everyone I know that has one loves it. I have had mine for about 4 years and never had a problem.

BTW costco is selling for $1900 delivered right now I believe.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

The only thing now I am concerned with is do I use the supplied anchor bolts that came with the lift or do I purchase the epoxy ones for $150... It just seems like the ones that you pound in and wedge in there wouldn't hold after awhile? Again this isn't to debate or throw stuff off topic but an actual concern... over time of lifting and lowering why would the bolts NOT become looser or loose grip? Compared to something that is "bonded" in the hole? Is this the correct thinking behind that or am I just making assumptions?

I only bring up the above becuase this dude:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/150702-Maxjax-garage-lift-install

States that there is more force on the anchors and that's its imperative that they be anchored in....etc.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[Denee007]

Hi Nigel, I think every MaxJax owner has the same concerns about the anchors~ I did! On my first set of holes, I used the supplied anchors (Non epoxy), I've never had a problem. I bought another single column for the other half of my garage, I would just unbolt the center column and turn it the other direction as needed. So I had to drill another 10 holes! I bought the epoxy anchors this time. Kind of messy, and still messes with my head that epoxy is holding these in the ground, but you still have to drive the epoxy anchors in. I still like my mechanical anchors, makes more sense to me.

But as time goes by, and let's say one of the wedgies comes loose, then you have the option to drive it through and install an epoxy anchor. So, I have a few epoxy anchors on hand just in case. Don't skimp when it comes to a hammer drill! Rent the best regardless of what it costs, unless you already own a hammer drill. My harbor freight hammer drill worked "ok", but I rented a name brand, and it worked fantastic! and buy new bits as well. The 5/8 and 7/8 ones.
I hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in.
dne'

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Hi Nigel, I think every MaxJax owner has the same concerns about the anchors~ I did! On my first set of holes, I used the supplied anchors (Non epoxy), I've never had a problem. I bought another single column for the other half of my garage, I would just unbolt the center column and turn it the other direction as needed. So I had to drill another 10 holes! I bought the epoxy anchors this time. Kind of messy, and still messes with my head that epoxy is holding these in the ground, but you still have to drive the epoxy anchors in. I still like my mechanical anchors, makes more sense to me.

But as time goes by, and let's say one of the wedgies comes loose, then you have the option to drive it through and install an epoxy anchor. So, I have a few epoxy anchors on hand just in case. Don't skimp when it comes to a hammer drill! Rent the best regardless of what it costs, unless you already own a hammer drill. My harbor freight hammer drill worked "ok", but I rented a name brand, and it worked fantastic! and buy new bits as well. The 5/8 and 7/8 ones.
I hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in.
dne'

Did you end up drilling the hole completely through the cement? I have read that some people have just incase if you mess up the anchor bolt they can pound it through and then start again... Then others have said do not drill it through completely.. but if you are drilling 5" or so what if the slab is only 4", things like that.
Almost seems like there is no direct and single way of installing which is what worries me more than anything.

Thanks,

-Nigel

 

[Denee007]

Hi, my slab is mostly 4", there is one hole that was even less, more like 3.75". So you have no choice but to drill through. This is in case an anchor fails, you can drive it through and install an expoxy anchor. The epoxy anchors are quite long, one would have to fill the hole with dirt so when filling the hole with epoxy, it won't disappear beneath the slab. That's what I did or had to do. I think that's why I like the mechanical anchors best. you just have to test them.
dne'

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Thank you for the information!

I think honestly what I am going to do is a little bit of both. Use the supplied anchors that came with the max jax and buy some good epoxy and then liberaly use it on the bolt obviously making sure it doesn't go in the threads... Set the proper anchor and then it would also have epoxy around it to secure it as well.. If there is no harm in doing so I think I would be comfortable doing that..etc.

Love this thread and others on max jax... WEALTH of information!

-Nigel

 

[Denee007]

Don't use epoxy on the mechanical /wedge type anchors. Epoxy with Epoxy anchors.
; )

 

[regguy1]

Denee,
The truck is looking pretty good, how much is left to do?

 

[Denee007]

Hi! Did you look on my blog? Just kind got my windshield in today. I have quite a bit yet, and that's OK! I have to have my gall bladder out this friday, so I'll be out for a week or two!

Denee,
The truck is looking pretty good, how much is left to do?

 

[les_garten]

Thank you for the information!

I think honestly what I am going to do is a little bit of both. Use the supplied anchors that came with the max jax and buy some good epoxy and then liberaly use it on the bolt obviously making sure it doesn't go in the threads... Set the proper anchor and then it would also have epoxy around it to secure it as well.. If there is no harm in doing so I think I would be comfortable doing that..etc.

Love this thread and others on max jax... WEALTH of information!

-Nigel

Hi,
Just my two cents...

Danmar spent some engineering time setting this up. You know it is going to be overspecced for Liability purposes. The main thing to be concerned with is getting a good straight hole that is sized properly. Don't do this with a cheap bit or hammerdrill. Get someone to help you get the holes plumb. If you get the holes right, the anchors will be plenty strong. You can drill the holes all the way thru so you have a fallback position to epoxy if needed. That way you can always epoxy later.

If you run into problems with the anchors, you'll know it.

 

[Rodbuilder]

I install and uninstall my lift quite a bit, after some time 2 of the original mollies were coming a little loose. After talking to Danmar I decided to remove them, fill the holes and drill new holes for the epoxy mollies. What is the issue here? $150? Danmar says the epoxy type add to the rating so in my mind why wouldn't you use them? It is worth it just for peace of mind, don't you think? I have helped 4 others install Maxjax and told them to get the epoxy type.

As others have said take your time laying it out and make certain (and I can't stress this enough!) that you are drilling exactly vertically, get someone to help you line up your drilling.

This is just my opinion but, Danmar should just raise the price of it by $100 and not offer the old style.

As for the thickness of the cement, a lot of folks that do not have the proper thickness have a concrete contractor come in and cut out a 4'x4' section and replace it with 6" thick.

Come on folks YOU are going to be working under a 3-6000 pound hunk of metal, isn't you life worth a little insurance? I have not heard of any Maxjax failing with either mollies but as long as there is better mollies available, I'm getting them. Just my 2 cents worth.

Denee, great looking truck!

Good luck on your surgery, are they doing it microscopically? Small incision and a lot quicker recovery.

Capt Van

 

[Airborne Ed]

Hi Everyone , I really enjoy reading all these post . I just ordered the max jax lift through Cosco . Gabe called and said I should receive it sometime next week . I am in no hurry because I am still doing a lot of work on the in side of my new garage .

It is taking a lot longer then I thought . Can I get some input about the distance between the post when setting it up please ? It seems to me I see a average of about 126 " to 128 " .Would anyone change their measurments after being in use for awhile ? I am open to any other additional info also .

Thanks in advance .

 

[Denee007]

Hi there Ed! Congratulations on your purchase! I have my columns set at 118" narrower than most due to my garage space. Keeping in mind the measuring is from outside of the square base (the thick plate) to the other. I had my Chevy truck up short Tall jackstands and needed my other side of the garage, so I bought a single column from gesusa.com (I love those guys there) and made my middle column to where it can be turned to the direction I'm working on. The one column is just difficult to get to, so my husband allowed me to buy the third column. My blog has some pretty good stuff on it. ; ) I believe the Garagejournal has got have the most abundance of information available with fantastic ideas!

This column stays put!

 

[Wiggum]

Cheap MaxJax for someone in Vegas.

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/fod/3439094849.html

And the "missing arms"...

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/3444832789.html

 

[regguy1]

Cheap MaxJax for someone in Vegas.

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/fod/3439094849.html

And the "missing arms"...

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/3444832789.html

Looks like somebody hijacked a truck and couldn't decide who gets what....

 

[Denee007]

Well, someone in las vegas will have to buy it, shipping would be killer, plus taking a chance on whether it's ok or not. But why don't they have the arms, and why does the other CL have a set of arms? and the arms are crazy heavy too! I'd like to have a set of arms for my third column~ I was too cheap to buy the arms!

 

[les_garten]

Well, someone in las vegas will have to buy it, shipping would be killer, plus taking a chance on whether it's ok or not. But why don't they have the arms, and why does the other CL have a set of arms? and the arms are crazy heavy too! I'd like to have a set of arms for my third column~ I was too cheap to buy the arms!

I got it one piece at a time, and it didn't cost me a dime...
-- Johnny Cash

 

[Denee007]

Now that's funny!

 

[les_garten]

Now that's funny!

Maybe it's the same guy was in both locations?

My first Divorce was like that...

 

[Rodbuilder]

Great idea, Denee, for a third column.

What I did was to have one post close to a wall and it pretty much stays there then I set up 2 locations for the other one. One set of holes is at about the normal width but I have a second set of mollies in about 14" closer. This set up allows me to use it for bigger things like the trucks and the narrower setting work great for the Vettes, 430 and Viper, it also fits for the Mules and even golf carts. I also have it set up so it will lift the Harley's.

 

[Denee007]

Intelligent minds think alike! With a little creativity and thinking of the box, we can do marvelous things

Great idea, Denee, for a third column.

What I did was to have one post close to a wall and it pretty much stays there then I set up 2 locations for the other one. One set of holes is at about the normal width but I have a second set of mollies in about 14" closer. This set up allows me to use it for bigger things like the trucks and the narrower setting work great for the Vettes, 430 and Viper, it also fits for the Mules and even golf carts. I also have it set up so it will lift the Harley's.

 

[Airborne Ed]

Thank you Denee for the info .

 

[c4cruiser]

I ordered a MaxJax from Costco in November and got everything put together. Picked up both a Bosch 5/8" and 7/8" drill and borrowed a hammer drill. Once I got everything lined up, I drilled the first hole and found the garage floor at that point was all of 2 3/4" deep. Laid out and drilled another hole and that measured all of 2 1/2". The plans I have for my garage slab specified minimum 4" thick with 3000psi concrete. No recourse here as the house is 22 years old.

So I had to get a concrete guy to come out and bust out two 4'x4' openings in the floor for a re-pour. I went with a 12" deep hole and a 5000psi mix with rebar connecting the new concrete to the existing slab and we made sure that the rebar is nowhere near where the anchors will be.

So now I'm ready to start drilling again With a 12" thickness, there is just no way to drill all the way through so I'll go down the recommended 5 1/2".

I still haven't settled on the spacing yet. I'll be using the lift for two different Corvettes (1987 and 2002) and the jacking points are about 4" difference in width.

 

[DonnyT]

No problems bleeding it. Think about it. As long as the volume in the hose is less then the cylinder, it will bleed properly. 25' of 1/4" hose is a very small percentage of the cylinder volume.

Yes, I just snaked a single hose no fittings through the conduit.

Question, isnt the hose 3/8's ??? I'm in the middle of installing my MJ now.

 

[97dynaglide]

So now I'm ready to start drilling again With a 12" thickness, there is just no way to drill all the way through so I'll go down the recommended 5 1/2".

Are you going with the epoxy anchors? If you don't have a hole all the way thru the concrete, and the Wejit's don't seat, you won't be able to drive them down out of the way in order to use epoxy anchors.

I just poured a 4x5 pad 9.5 inches thick, and going to use epoxy anchors. I can't afford to have the Wejits not seat again.

 

[les_garten]

I ordered a MaxJax from Costco in November and got everything put together. Picked up both a Bosch 5/8" and 7/8" drill and borrowed a hammer drill. Once I got everything lined up, I drilled the first hole and found the garage floor at that point was all of 2 3/4" deep. Laid out and drilled another hole and that measured all of 2 1/2". The plans I have for my garage slab specified minimum 4" thick with 3000psi concrete. No recourse here as the house is 22 years old.

So I had to get a concrete guy to come out and bust out two 4'x4' openings in the floor for a re-pour. I went with a 12" deep hole and a 5000psi mix with rebar connecting the new concrete to the existing slab and we made sure that the rebar is nowhere near where the anchors will be.

So now I'm ready to start drilling again With a 12" thickness, there is just no way to drill all the way through so I'll go down the recommended 5 1/2".

I still haven't settled on the spacing yet. I'll be using the lift for two different Corvettes (1987 and 2002) and the jacking points are about 4" difference in width.

How much did it cost to get the pads done?

 

[DonnyT]

Anyone have any continued problems with the arms leveling after they extended the hydraulic hoses for a more permanent installation??? I would like to mount my motor to the wall and extend the hoses as some guys did. Just wondering what happens if the hoses where different lenghts. ?? Thanks

 

[regguy1]

Anyone have any continued problems with the arms leveling after they extended the hydraulic hoses for a more permanent installation??? I would like to mount my motor to the wall and extend the hoses as some guys did. Just wondering what happens if the hoses where different lenghts. ?? Thanks

As long as you've bled them it shouldn't be a problem. Several people here have extended hoses with no issues

 

[DonnyT]

Thank you

 

[c4cruiser]

Are you going with the epoxy anchors? If you don't have a hole all the way thru the concrete, and the Wejit's don't seat, you won't be able to drive them down out of the way in order to use epoxy anchors.

I just poured a 4x5 pad 9.5 inches thick, and going to use epoxy anchors. I can't afford to have the Wejits not seat again.

I hadn't really thought about that but it certainly does make sense if any of the WejIt's don't take hold. Is the hole size to drill the same for the epoxy anchors? And what about temps for the epoxy to set up? Looks like the local weather will be in the low to mid-40's during the day and high thirty's at night.

How much did it cost to get the pads done?

I paid $1000 cash so I got a better deal and no sales tax!!. The areas were cut with a large wet cutter and the guy made sure to not cut too far beyond the marked areas (no part of the cut went more than 2" outside the marks). The cut slab was busted up with jackhammers, all of the chunks ere removed and a 12" deep hole was dug. Everything was hauled off.

The existing slab was drilled and the rebar was placed away from where the lift pads were going to sit. The pour was leveled and troweled smooth. All in all, it was a very professional job and worth the outlay.

 

[DirtRoad]

I have 2 drains in my floor. The concrete is sloped to those drains, i do not have a level floor at all because of this. Where i would put the posts the posts would end up angled away from each other. Can i maybe shim these? Is it possible to shim?

I cant be the only one that has this problem.

I have to shim just about everything in this shop to make it level. It *****, the floors are fantastic though if your washing cars in there alot, they look great too, someone did a great job, but ***** for anything else.

 

[dmeadow]

I have 2 drains in my floor. The concrete is sloped to those drains, i do not have a level floor at all because of this. Where i would put the posts the posts would end up angled away from each other. Can i maybe shim these? Is it possible to shim?

I cant be the only one that has this problem.

I have to shim just about everything in this shop to make it level. It *****, the floors are fantastic though if your washing cars in there alot, they look great too, someone did a great job, but ***** for anything else.

The Maxjax is supplied with some C shaped metal shims. I had to use a few of them.