Denee007
Well-known member
The real test were the columns! An engine crane would have been nice! ; )
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MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison
- Thread starter Dolfan
- Start date
les_garten
Banned
Anybody measure how Long the shipping package was? Would it fit in a 9' Trailer?
Denee, thanx for the DIY PIC!
Denee, thanx for the DIY PIC!
Denee007
Well-known member
Yes 8'. Would work! The trailer in my pic above is a 5 x 8' utility trailer.
Dne'
Dne'
les_garten
Banned
Thanx!
Well my maxjax came in the other day and I picked it up at the shiping terminal. Here's a few picks of the shipping size in my 4x8 trailer. Very easy to unload with the help of a shop crane 
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6176/6205696434_9399debeb6_b.jpg" width="1024" height="575" alt="maxjax 002">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6135/6205181125_4ecacd3544_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="maxjax 003">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/6205697944_6401d83d91_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="maxjax 004">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6205698716_9f93498f6d_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="maxjax 005">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6176/6205696434_9399debeb6_b.jpg" width="1024" height="575" alt="maxjax 002">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6135/6205181125_4ecacd3544_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="maxjax 003">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6159/6205697944_6401d83d91_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="maxjax 004">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6167/6205698716_9f93498f6d_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="maxjax 005">
les_garten
Banned
Nice PIX!
Thanx!
Thanx!
abstamaria
Well-known member
MaxJax installed.
Great photos, Jonah. Good luck with the installation.
I had some minor problems with mine. There are no equipment hire companies here (I don't have an SDS drill) and couldn't find a 7/8" SDS bit (all I could find were metric). I eventually contracted out the drilling to a specialist who located the bit and installed the anchors. Also, the output port in the motor section was on the wrong (right) side, rather than the left, but Danmar (Gabe) was quick to respond and showed me which alternate port on the left side to use. I had to splice in a power cord, as probably Danmar was unsure what our power outlets looked like (I have the 220V version). But all in all the instllation went smoothly. The anchors seem to be holding.
The lift is really for my old sports cars, but we used our Honda as the test vehicle just in case (here's a larger version of a photo posted in another thread). I have a small garage and was woried a lift might be an overwhelming presence. The Maxjax is small and visually unobtrusive, so, so far, I am quite pleased with it.
Great photos, Jonah. Good luck with the installation.
I had some minor problems with mine. There are no equipment hire companies here (I don't have an SDS drill) and couldn't find a 7/8" SDS bit (all I could find were metric). I eventually contracted out the drilling to a specialist who located the bit and installed the anchors. Also, the output port in the motor section was on the wrong (right) side, rather than the left, but Danmar (Gabe) was quick to respond and showed me which alternate port on the left side to use. I had to splice in a power cord, as probably Danmar was unsure what our power outlets looked like (I have the 220V version). But all in all the instllation went smoothly. The anchors seem to be holding.
The lift is really for my old sports cars, but we used our Honda as the test vehicle just in case (here's a larger version of a photo posted in another thread). I have a small garage and was woried a lift might be an overwhelming presence. The Maxjax is small and visually unobtrusive, so, so far, I am quite pleased with it.
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Jvvmusme
Well-known member
Why is your maxax red ?
abstamaria
Well-known member
Jose, I wanted to reduce the visual clutter in my garage, and so removed the stickers and changed the color of the column to go with the cabinets. I just resprayed the arms red too.
By the way, thanks for the photos. You have a great collection.
I assume your MaxJax must have already arrived.
Andy
By the way, thanks for the photos. You have a great collection.
I assume your MaxJax must have already arrived.
Andy
volvo
Well-known member
...
abstamaria
I really like your max lift install and color choice, really makes it stand out, Great Job.
You white flooring looks amazing, is there a thread or posts about it ?
abstamaria
I really like your max lift install and color choice, really makes it stand out, Great Job.
You white flooring looks amazing, is there a thread or posts about it ?
les_garten
Banned
I've got to admit the red/black paint on the MaxJax is great when it ties into the rest of the garage space. My garage doesn't have enough of a "theme" to worry about so I'll have to go with standard color but that was a nice touch!
Soon to be seen on "Pimp my Lift"
In my old Garage, I could have splashed 20 different colors of paint on my Maxjax and then it would have matched my "Jackson Pollock" themed garage!
abstamaria
Well-known member
Thanks, Dolfan, Volvo. This is my 4th garage, counting the one in my parent's house. I thoight I would go minimalist on this one, to reduce the clutter and help me get organized. I think Jack Olsen's 12-gauge garage stands out because of the single color he uses. The MaxJax's original black with yellow stickers stood out a bit.
On "pimping" the lift, actually there are some minor things that can be improved on the MaxJax. The fasteners for the top brace didn't come with washers, so can use those. The rubber handles for the stop bars and motor cart aren't too attractive. The cart itself is roughly done. Easy fixes and fun projects.
Volvo, there was a discussion on the floor before. It is epoxy, manufactured locally (for power plant floors, etc.). There should be good equivalents where you are, if you're planning to do your floor. Reading Jack Olsen's endorsement of tiled floors, I am inclined now to recommend that over epoxy. But let me look for the discussion, and I will post a link.
Les, Jackson Pollock and Dijon mustards ... I need to see your garage. (PS: I lived in NY before and some years back saw an exhibit commemorating Pollock. If I had one of his works, I would make an exception to my "no wall hangings" policy, but that's not going to happen. He lived on Long Island, as you know. I am a fan.)
Regards,
Andy
On "pimping" the lift, actually there are some minor things that can be improved on the MaxJax. The fasteners for the top brace didn't come with washers, so can use those. The rubber handles for the stop bars and motor cart aren't too attractive. The cart itself is roughly done. Easy fixes and fun projects.
Volvo, there was a discussion on the floor before. It is epoxy, manufactured locally (for power plant floors, etc.). There should be good equivalents where you are, if you're planning to do your floor. Reading Jack Olsen's endorsement of tiled floors, I am inclined now to recommend that over epoxy. But let me look for the discussion, and I will post a link.
Les, Jackson Pollock and Dijon mustards ... I need to see your garage. (PS: I lived in NY before and some years back saw an exhibit commemorating Pollock. If I had one of his works, I would make an exception to my "no wall hangings" policy, but that's not going to happen. He lived on Long Island, as you know. I am a fan.)
Regards,
Andy
abstamaria
Well-known member
Volvo,
I thought there was a longer discussion on the floor, but apparently my memory fails me. It is a standard epoxy floor, which remained tacky for a while, so the contractor laid a topcoat, which seems to have done the trick. It should be very similar to the other floors discussed in the "Floors" section, many of which are really excellent. The only thing that might set my floor apart is that it is stark white - not as popular as one would think. The link below leads to post #55, which discussed the floor briefly and has some photos.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71002&page=3
Sorry for the digression; now back to MaxJaxs.
Andy
I thought there was a longer discussion on the floor, but apparently my memory fails me. It is a standard epoxy floor, which remained tacky for a while, so the contractor laid a topcoat, which seems to have done the trick. It should be very similar to the other floors discussed in the "Floors" section, many of which are really excellent. The only thing that might set my floor apart is that it is stark white - not as popular as one would think. The link below leads to post #55, which discussed the floor briefly and has some photos.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71002&page=3
Sorry for the digression; now back to MaxJaxs.
Andy
This is my first post here guys. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how far from the front wall or work bench the posts are set at? I have a work bench on my front wall and need atleast 3 feet from the work bench and the front of the car. So I need to know how many feet back I would have to mount the post from my work bench? Thanx
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
I had the same question as yynnot andthe correct advice was given by jonahj11.
petee_c
Well-known member
it depends on how deep your garage is....
My garage is about 23' deep. My posts are at 11' from the closed garage door, and 12' from the back wall... estimated.
I have a Boxster S, Jetta, Honda CRV.
Peter
PS. Just park your C5 3' away from your workbench. eyeball the midpoint between your front and rear wheels... that is approx. where you should mount your posts for your desired position.....
it's that easy.
Hey, I'm the originator of this thread and as you have probably seen, I have a C4 and C5. One recommendation I would make to you is to go with a fairly wide post placement. I did 124" as I remember I and would go a bit wider maybe 126" or 128".
At the wider setting the arms will swing to lifting locations better on these wide cars that have jacking positions so far to the outside, it is different than older cars with the frame rails that are usually inboard of side of the car by 6-10"
As for front to back, follow the good advice and put you car in the spot and mark a midpoint allowing space on all side for getting around.
Don't wait on your purchase! I wish I had bought one of these much sooner than I did!
"Quote"
Hey, I'm the originator of this thread and as you have probably seen, I have a C4 and C5. One recommendation I would make to you is to go with a fairly wide post placement. I did 124" as I remember I and would go a bit wider maybe 126" or 128".
Is that measurement from indide to inside of the post or the actual drive thru meaning the actual arms at 124" apart??
Hey, I'm the originator of this thread and as you have probably seen, I have a C4 and C5. One recommendation I would make to you is to go with a fairly wide post placement. I did 124" as I remember I and would go a bit wider maybe 126" or 128".
Is that measurement from indide to inside of the post or the actual drive thru meaning the actual arms at 124" apart??
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I was also thinking about getting this lift and if you look the actual drive thru is 99" I didn't know if that was too narrow.
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDesc=N&ProductCode=ATPK-BP8000&PhotoNumber=8
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoDetails.asp?ShowDesc=N&ProductCode=ATPK-BP8000&PhotoNumber=8
Well it took longer to get to this project than I wanted, but it is finally done. I mounted the posts at 128". Seems like a perfect amount of space for every thing I work on.
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6094/6241437881_746c85c42d_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 001">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6241953918_9bf42ea2ac_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 002">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6109/6241439053_9155ca97d4_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 003">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6056/6241955386_120ef598f5_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 004">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6229/6241956174_5b408d8788_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 005">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6094/6241437881_746c85c42d_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 001">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6241953918_9bf42ea2ac_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 002">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6109/6241439053_9155ca97d4_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 003">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6056/6241955386_120ef598f5_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 004">
<img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6229/6241956174_5b408d8788_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="maxjax 005">
les_garten
Banned
Nice Job!
Happy Lifting to you!
Happy Lifting to you!
abstamaria
Well-known member
Yes, very neat place, Jonah. Andy
Moving into a new house shortly and would like to get one of these. I want to tile the floor of the garage. Can this be installed on top of the tile? I would think tile around it but not sure if the arms will rub the ground, looks like they are close in some of the pics. So, lift then tile, or tile then lift?
I guess the question is what type of tile are you talking about, but I would think it makes more sense to mount the post directly onto the concrete. If you plan to try to mount on the tile I would certainly contact Dannmar to ask how they feel about that???? Just not sure about tile carrying that load.
I know for me I would not install over tile. But I prefer a sealed or concrete floor.
les_garten
Banned
If it were a Porcelain tile, I'll bet you would be fine. You can drive the same car on it that you'll be jacking up. The jack has more contact footprint than the car does. Tile needs to be laid with a good base of back buttering of the tiles when you set them. You can get Porcelain pretty cheap on sale.
demoderbydave
Well-known member
I second that...you will hate it when you trip over those hoses. I don't know why dannmar does not offer a "permanant install kit" that would simply include longer hoses to allow you to run them up and along the ceiling and either mount the power unit or just tuck it in out of the way. I made a permanent install out of mine and am MUCH happier now!
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True the tile supports the car fine but that is the weight transfer through the 4 tires, spaced in a large pattern where the average weight on each tire of about 900#.
With the lift post you'll have all the weight of the car over two post that are in the center so a minimum of carrying 1800# and then there is the effect of the cantilevered weight.
I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but those metal bottom plates pressing on the tile with more force will be different than just the tires resting on the tiles. Also would assume you would need to set the anchors below the surface of the tile and be sure you were in the concrete not coming flush up to the tile.
regguy1
Well-known member
I agree it's not ideal to put it on top of tile. He could fabricate metal plates to go under MaxJax base to bring it up to same level as the tile...seems like a lot of trouble though. I'd put it flush on concrete and cut tiles to fit, could even fabricate a trim piece around the base if concerened about looks.
les_garten
Banned
The problem with cutting tiles to fit is if he wants to do un mounting of the Towers and putting them away when not in use.
I don't believe there would be a problem because those jack bases look like they contact the floor a lot more than 4 car tires. Tiles are used all over the world in shops.
For a good answer, if I were the OP, I would register at Johnbridge.com and ask the question there. John Bridge and company know Tile! His book "Tiling your World" is a must read for any tile layer, either experienced or inexperienced. When I do tile, I use that site a lot.
I don't believe there would be a problem because those jack bases look like they contact the floor a lot more than 4 car tires. Tiles are used all over the world in shops.
For a good answer, if I were the OP, I would register at Johnbridge.com and ask the question there. John Bridge and company know Tile! His book "Tiling your World" is a must read for any tile layer, either experienced or inexperienced. When I do tile, I use that site a lot.
abstamaria
Well-known member
BigCarbs, the arms of a MaxJax sit low in the down position and will rub the tiles if set below their level, as you suspected. There is some play, so you could lift them when swinging them around. Or you could not lower fully and, if they are still engaged, release the locks that prevent the arms from swinging when elevated. Not ideal, I think.
If you have to shim the posts, they will not rest fully on the base plate but on the shims and perhaps one edge of the base flange. That will concentrate pressure on those small points. Not ideal also, probably. i recall someone here has successfully installed over tile, though, so I hope he chimes in.
RegGuy's suggestion to use metal plates of the same thickness as the tile is probably what I would do. But also research on tile, as Les suggests. Properly bonded to the concrete, they might be strong enough.
Good luck!
Andy
If you have to shim the posts, they will not rest fully on the base plate but on the shims and perhaps one edge of the base flange. That will concentrate pressure on those small points. Not ideal also, probably. i recall someone here has successfully installed over tile, though, so I hope he chimes in.
RegGuy's suggestion to use metal plates of the same thickness as the tile is probably what I would do. But also research on tile, as Les suggests. Properly bonded to the concrete, they might be strong enough.
Good luck!
Andy
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ct71rr
Well-known member
I also have this same question. Looks like Wachuko (on here) has his set on tiles. I asked him about it in his post but, have not received an answer yet.
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35763
Rentawrench
Well-known member
IF the tile strong an large ( 12x12) it might work, BUT Drill an set the anchors in the concrete only, donot have them up in the tile,an use long bolts.
Check with tile company for load ratings
Check with tile company for load ratings