MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison

[Dolfan]

Custom Installation

One thing I was considering before the MaxJax was to cut out the center concrete and pour in a dropped concrete pad to lower the mid-rise lift. The advantages of this are several, you won't need any additional ramps for parking over the lift and without those ramps it will open up much more of the floor when working under the car. I've seen pictures of this being done and it looks slick. It does give up the "moveable" capability of the mid-rise if you wanted to easily move to another garage bay.

But now considering the open floor capability of the MaxJax I'm not sure the additional effort is worth it. Considering the average price of a mid-rise lift maybe being $150-$350 less, if you contracted for this concrete work you would have a more costly solution. Even if you did the custom pad as a DIY project with rented concrete tools and delivered concrete you might break even, but still would give up some access to the center area of the car. The further consideration on the MaxJax is that you can set up different bays with different width post settings and reuse anchors by rotating the post 180 degrees. You'll have to supply and of course install additional anchors.

So if I already had a working mid-rise lift I think I might drop in a custom pad, but if evaluating for new purchase between these two and considering the additional work I think I would advise to go with the MaxJax and skip the concrete work.


Conclusion: Custom install maybe not a great choice for new lift buyers

 

[Dolfan]

Lift Height and Positions

This section will be important to some depending on the type of work you'll plan on doing. The general idea for me was to get the car up to comfortable working positions to save on my back and try to make jobs go faster.

The mid-rise has the higher lift of these two lifts. No the working height of the lift and access will depend on the clearance of the vehicle and the lift pads used. But trying to keep all things equal, the mid-rise will lift the bar arm to a height of about 49 3/4" while the MaxJax lifts to about 44 1/2".

Sorry for the poor pictures but here is are the views, mid-rise followed by MaxJax.

For me the place where this becomes most important is how easily I can fit under the vehicle on a rolling seat. I've used the mid-rise more thus far so can't comment for sure on the MaxJax, but given I'm about 6' 1" and I use a telescopic rolling shop seat, I can drop it to the lowest setting and I was able to work fairly comfortable under my Dodge Dakota pickup. I did have to duck my head, but I wouldn't say it is uncomfortable. I'm curious about this on the MaxJax and will be doing a job on the Z06 soon that requires this type work so I'll know more then, but I would only assume that it will be tighter given the difference of about 4-5" of height

As for lift positions both lifts are to use the hydraulics to lift the vehicle, but then to place the load onto the safety lock positions. The Atlas has 7 locking positions in a variety of heights, I really like this as I can get the lift to a good working height depending on the job and have it locked in place. The MaxJax has two safety positions, one at full lift height and the other mid way.

Conclusion: The mid-rise with slightly more height and more positions gets the edge in this area.

 

[regguy1]

Dolfan,

Very well done series of posts

Regarding the height issue you can cut wood blocks to put on top the lift pads to add height. I've used wood blocks at my professional shop with full height lifts for over 20 years and never considered them a safety issue. In fact it was neccesary on vehicles with running boards to use blocks because the lift arms would hit the RBs before the pads contacted the frame / lift point.

I cut several 1" / 2" x 4" / and' 4" x 4" blocks to use as needed with my MaxJax. I do agree it's nice to have the additional height.

 

[Dolfan]

Dolfan,

Regarding the height issue you can cut wood blocks to put on top the lift pads to add height. .

I agree that with any lift, the owner will figure out the best way to make that product work for them. As you can see through these posts I created custom pads for my mid-rise to cope with the low exhaust of the C4 Corvette.

I wanted to allow reader to view these two lifts in an "apples to apples" manner for their own judgement.

 

[dmeray1]

Great write up!! I wanted to go with a two post set up but when it came time to layout where to mount the posts I had a conflict with where to drill holes. Keeping within the specs of where to drill in relation to the edge of the concrete and such meant that I would have had to "offset" the mounting points which would have put me in the middle of the garage and not able to park side by side with the lift installed. I looked at the Max Jac and finally settled on a mid rise scissors lift. Yes, access is somewhat limited in the middle section, but I am very happy with it. The biggest plus is that it is totally portable...I can put it anywhere I want...just plug it in and lift.

PS...Where did you get the ramps for your mid rise...I am using 2X6 boards.

 

[Denee007]

I can't thank you enough for your excellent writeup and all the comments! I just bought a hammer drill to see how thick my garage floor is. And you're darned right about finding a 7/8"'s masonary bit!!! The man at Danmark said I should do this just to make sure. The sale ends this month for the price of 1979.oo (give or take a dollar)free shipping.

I'm ready to purchase! I was concerned about the two settings, but I think should be ok. I'm just a little worried if my mustang and my '57 chevy will be able to be elevated to the highest level. I have an 8'1" garage. my husband was arguing with me that it won't, but I took my tape measure and I think I proved to him that it will! argh! opinions?

 

[Dolfan]

PS...Where did you get the ramps for your mid rise...I am using 2X6 boards.

I built the ramps. If you look at the first post there is a thread to the install of the mid-rise lift, there I go through some of the construction of the ramps.

Basically they are constructed with three 2x4 ribs with plywood as the ramp surface, the plywood never spans more than 3-4" so they are strong. Also it is built in section with threaded rods, so that pieces can be removed to open up floor space on bigger jobs.

 

[Dolfan]

OK, I'm adding this video on the MaxJax. Shows the lift in use for any that want to see it in action in a home garage setting.

Enjoy.

 

[Falcon67]

I'm ready to purchase! I was concerned about the two settings, but I think should be ok. I'm just a little worried if my mustang and my '57 chevy will be able to be elevated to the highest level. I have an 8'1" garage. my husband was arguing with me that it won't, but I took my tape measure and I think I proved to him that it will! argh! opinions?

Well - we have a 70 Mustang and a 67 Falcon. The Mustang would just barely make 8', maybe. I'd have to measure. The Falcon - no. With a MaxJax, it'd need 9'+. I'll bet you have the same issue with the 57. Tall car.

 

[Denee007]

Great video!

That video was great! were you using an electric(battery) impact? I couldn't tell if that was pneumatic or else? Anyway, I'm checking now and then with Maxjax when theyr'e getting the 3 level lift in. I have the money and ready when they get em in stock!
dne'

QUOTE=Dolfan;1143953]OK, I'm adding this video on the MaxJax. Shows the lift in use for any that want to see it in action in a home garage setting.

Enjoy.[/QUOTE]

 

[Falcon67]

Follow up - the 70 Mustang with 28" slicks and 27.5" front runners with 25 lbs of air in both is 54" tall. So to hit the Max's max at 48", you'd need 8' 6". There is room for a bath towel to keep the joists from scraping the roof.

 

[Denee007]

darn! I'll measure the height of my stang tomorrow~ I guess I'm going to have to buy an MG midget! lol Thanks for the information!
dne'

Follow up - the 70 Mustang with 28" slicks and 27.5" front runners with 25 lbs of air in both is 54" tall. So to hit the Max's max at 48", you'd need 8' 6". There is room for a bath towel to keep the joists from scraping the roof.

 

[Interex]

OK, I'm adding this video on the MaxJax. Shows the lift in use for any that want to see it in action in a home garage setting.

Enjoy.

Great vid!

Seems a little loud going up. Do the posts need grease or is this normal operation?

 

[Dolfan]

Great vid!

Seems a little loud going up. Do the posts need grease or is this normal operation?

A couple things on the sound, the seals are still very new and that is one thing that leads to the sound being a bit loud. Also there is a additive that Dannmar has recommended in some cases to help with this, I have not managed to get that as yet.

 

[Denee007]

Help me out here~ when I measure from where the lift pads would go to lift my mustang, I get about 45"(very rough measurement, I'll measure more accurately tomorrow), that's from the frame(like where a jackstand may be placed) to the top of the roof. Surely you can't go by the entire height of the car right? so if the lift maximum height is 45", that'd be only 90"s and my ceiling is right at 8'?

Well - we have a 70 Mustang and a 67 Falcon. The Mustang would just barely make 8', maybe. I'd have to measure. The Falcon - no. With a MaxJax, it'd need 9'+. I'll bet you have the same issue with the 57. Tall car.

 

[Dolfan]

Help me out here~ when I measure from where the lift pads would go to lift my mustang, I get about 45"(very rough measurement, I'll measure more accurately tomorrow), that's from the frame(like where a jackstand may be placed) to the top of the roof. Surely you can't go by the entire height of the car right? so if the lift maximum height is 45", that'd be only 90"s and my ceiling is right at 8'?

That sounds about right to me based on what you've written here. Let's break this down, if you look at this picture it shows the height of the regular lift pad in the full lift position, as 46"

But, you can only add that to your car height if you were to start with the frame right on the lift pads where they sit in the down position, which is about 4". But if you can use the "truck pads, and meet the frame within maybe an inch, I would figure the formula would be something like this

Total lift = (lift final pad height-distance of pad to frame) + height of vehicle from frame

OK, didn't think I was going all math when I started this

 

[Denee007]

LOL!! Believe me, this has been driving me crazy trying to figure this out! So, I think judging from your superior brain, my mustang should be able to make it to the top of the lifts maximum capacity! However, my '57 chevy does sit much taller, that's hopefully Maxjax will come through on their additional locking holes! I guess I'll call Maxjax tomorrow to see how they're coming along on the newer lifts!
dne'

Total lift = (lift final pad height-distance of pad to frame) + height of vehicle from frame

OK, didn't think I was going all math when I started this

 

[Falcon67]

Help me out here~ when I measure from where the lift pads would go to lift my mustang, I get about 45"(very rough measurement, I'll measure more accurately tomorrow), that's from the frame(like where a jackstand may be placed) to the top of the roof. Surely you can't go by the entire height of the car right? so if the lift maximum
height is 45", that'd be only 90"s and my ceiling is right at 8'?

Math!

This is why I'm not Chief of Detectives. You are correct that the lift will be X off the floor before it catches the lift points on the car. I just measured the car height, not really thinking it all the way through. Ours has subframe connectors, so take maybe 6" off the total. I'll re-measure when I get a chance, maybe tonight. Where'd I put that 5' dial caliper....

 

[Rodbuilder]

Hi all, just came across this thread and thought I could finally contribute.
I have had the MJ for about a year and I'm pretty happy with it. Here are a couple tricks I've learned.

I picked up 4 90* elbows at the local hydraulic shop and put them at each end of the hoses. It makes for a better angle, the hoses are off the floor with the standard connectors and if you forget about that you could end up on your backside staring at the ceiling.

I have enough clearance to the ceiling about 9'6" so I can lift the cars a little higher. MJ offers extensions of 3" and 6". I have a couple low cars, Z06 and Viper, so I raise the cars high enough to set the wheels on some blocks, drop the lift down and make use of the extensions.

MJ also makes an adapter to lift your scooters and works on golf cart as well.

I have also had my Yukon xl up on it to do service work and this old beast, no problem

 

[Falcon67]

Update to the update - I measure 46" on the 70 between the bottom of the subframe bars and the roof. So yes - I come up with 2" clearance in an 8' shop. The Falcon is still going to be about 4" taller. Look at it this way - I can put my Simpson open face race helmet on seated in the Falcon no problem. Plenty of clearance. If I get in the Mustang, my purdy bald head is wedged against the roof and I haven't done anything yet LOL. The Mustang is HER car, I can barely get in it to back it off the trailer.

 

[Denee007]

Hey, thanks Rodbuilder! neat ideas! I like how you have holes all over your garage to move you MJ!!
and Falcon! Whoo hoo! I'm just waiting patiently for MJ to call me when they have the lifts with the extra holes! money is in the bank!!
dne'

Hi all, just came across this thread and thought I could finally contribute.
I have had the MJ for about a year and I'm pretty happy with it. Here are a couple tricks I've learned.

I picked up 4 90* elbows at the local hydraulic shop and put them at each end of the hoses. It makes for a better angle, the hoses are off the floor with the stranded connectors and if you forget about that you could end up on your backside staring at the ceiling.

 

[Dolfan]

Rodbuilder, good input.

I really like the idea of adding the 90 degree fittings, looks like it will do two things, first it should allow the line to sit on the floor and not loop, which yes is a bit of a thing to watch out for when moving around the space. Another thing I would think this helps is it would make the "working length" of the lines be a little longer, since the lines have a more direct route between the power unit and post with less wasted travel of the loop and probably less strain on the lines.

Also, I see you are lifting a vette as am I. I like you "two stage" lifting procedure for the lower cars to get the most lift height. I wouldn't want to go through that for quicker jobs as that is part of the reason I wanted a lift to make getting the car up a quick and safe process. But for doing jobs that you know you need that extra height and are more long term jobs I like the idea.

I think I'll look to add the 90's on my lines for sure.

 

[m.james]

I keep coming back to this thread and I'm never surprise as to how many people love this lift. And people like rodbuilder who take it one step further and make their lifts better with attachments and fittings.

 

[Rodbuilder]

Thanks everyone, makes me feel right at home.

Yes I do have 3 locations for the MJ. One is normal width then one a little narrower for 4 wheelers, golf carts etc then the third location is in the side entry into the garage where I built with scissor trusses so I have more height so I can lift the trucks.

Doing the "2 step" lift makes it just the right height for me to comfortably work under the car on my mechanics seat and it only takes a couple minutes and worth the extra 6". Also I bought a work bench tool box from Sams that rolls around and fits nicely under the car so I don't have to chase tools around and has a nice counter top on it to put parts on. Here is a picture of it next to Gangster Gal (it's my wifes car and that is what she named it)

Here is another picture of the motorcycle adapter.

 

[SuperSocket]

Glad to see that this will work with a c6 z06 without clearance issues. I'm sold. I have a single width tandem garage but side clearance was an issue with the other lifts, this one I can put from wall to wall and still be able to walk around the car and when not in use, not become a object to climb around.

Price is good too and install looks easy, although I am going to make my setup permanent with wall-mounting the pump and putting the hoses clamped to the walls rather than laying loose on the floors.

 

[rickycobra]

Price is good too and install looks easy, although I am going to make my setup permanent with wall-mounting the pump and putting the hoses clamped to the walls rather than laying loose on the floors.

I've never seen that before could you post some pictures for when you have wall mounted the unit.

 

[ponchopower]

I've never seen that before could you post some pictures for when you have wall mounted the unit.

I went a somewhat similar route. I have modified the hydraulic line setup and run the lines all overhead, coming down a wall where I have the cart. I really didn't see the point of actually mounting the unit on the wall directly. So the lift is essentially "free standing" with hoses running up the lift to the ceiling, then across the ceiling to the wall, then down the wall to the cart.

Doing it this way allowed for a very clean install with no lines at all on the floor and no obstructions - but I can quickly disengage the valved connectors on the power unit and move the unit around for maintenance, etc.

 

[SuperSocket]

"Joe From NY" on the other maxjack thread made this. This is where I got my inspiration from.

 

[rickycobra]

I went a somewhat similar route. I have modified the hydraulic line setup and run the lines all overhead, coming down a wall where I have the cart. I really didn't see the point of actually mounting the unit on the wall directly. So the lift is essentially "free standing" with hoses running up the lift to the ceiling, then across the ceiling to the wall, then down the wall to the cart.

Doing it this way allowed for a very clean install with no lines at all on the floor and no obstructions - but I can quickly disengage the valved connectors on the power unit and move the unit around for maintenance, etc.

I didn't know so many people did it this way but I think I might when I eventually save up some money.

"Joe From NY" on the other maxjack thread made this. This is where I got my inspiration from.

Wow that looks very clean.

 

[Denee007]

Wow! That is nice! Perhaps the 90degree fittings on the wall unit I've seen could tidy it up a bit more? I'm still waiting to hear from Maxjax on the upgraded lift with the extra holes! I hope they weren't pulling my leg about that upgrade!
dne'

 

[SuperSocket]

Wow! That is nice! Perhaps the 90degree fittings on the wall unit I've seen could tidy it up a bit more? I'm still waiting to hear from Maxjax on the upgraded lift with the extra holes! I hope they weren't pulling my leg about that upgrade!
dne'

What are the extra holes for and where would they be located?

 

[Joe From NY]

"Joe From NY" on the other maxjack thread made this. This is where I got my inspiration from.

Nah, I didn't do that, I quoted the post by PowerDubs where he showed his photos. But I will do it as soon as I buy new fittings and some extra pieces of hoses.

 

[Denee007]

I just called Joe at gesusa to confirm whether or not that it's really true that MJ is coming out with additional holes, basically another set of holes for one more level, so there would be 3 levels in all I believe. I'll post if/when he writes back.
dne'

This is what Joe Vermillion wrote me: "I will keep you on my call list and will notify you when the MaxJax is offered with more than 2 locking positions. If you have any questions please call me at 800-261-7729 x-103.

What are the extra holes for and where would they be located?

 

[Denee007]

Ok, just got off the phone with Dannmar, and the salesman said they are NOT making the MJ with additional holes. He said buyers are simply drilling their own holes not to exceed "too many", maybe a couple extra set of holes, but don' t get carried away! So, in that case, I can order from whomsoever may have the best price! Dannmar says 2099 delivered, but I think surely may be able to find one for a little less. I just need to drill a test hole tomorrow and make sure my slab is ok!

 

[Falcon67]

Without actually looking at one of the posts, on the surface the additional locking positions don't look technically challenging. From what I've seen, it's two holes that you stick a bar through then relax the lifting mechanism on the bar. With all due consideration for safety, structural integrity and the warranty, if you had appropriately accurate and capable equipment it might be possible to add another set of holes.

Posted at almost the same instant as Denee007

On sale + free shipping:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200386167_200386167

$1899 at CostCo
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11589445&search=maxjax&topnav=&Mo=0&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=maxjax&Ntt=maxjax&No=0&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial

Three locations in Houston!

 

[Denee007]

Thanks Falcon! I called Northern Tools to see how'd go about getting it shipped. He said it would be delivered on a really large truck, and said i'd pay extra for a truck with a liftgate and they would put it down where I would want it, granted the truck would fit in my drive. He said it be better to rent a forklift for the day? I didn't question that, but how about a pallet jack? Northern tool stores do not actually carry them. We don't have a Costco membership, but I guess we could get a membership. But buying from out of state would save some tax dollars I think. I'd rather be able to buy it locally and just bring it home on my brothers flatbed truck, and take the lift apart accordingly.

 

[lucky3]

Hey denee007 i just ordered mine. I got it from http://www.gesusa.com and they matched costco's price and had free shipping. THey say they sell around 100 a month. THey have them in stock and takes about a week to get one. Mines being shipped by con way and i'm picking it up at there terminal. Talk to ryan and tell him dan sent you.

 

[Falcon67]

Ya, 8.25% sales tax will put the Costco lift back up around $2060. You'd think Northern would stock one somewhere. Also - check with them on terminal delivery. I have done that - show up at the dock and they load it on your trailer. Check first with the freight co. to be sure. That gets you out of the lift gate charge.

 

[ponchopower]

Agreed. Terminal delivery can save you some money. And the packaged Maxjax will fit in the back of a full size pickup even with a short bed. Without a forklift you'll really struggle attempting to unload the pallet intact, but you can just cut the banding, unbolt the pieces, and remove items one by one from the pallet.

 

[drmoonshine]

Agreed. Terminal delivery can save you some money. And the packaged Maxjax will fit in the back of a full size pickup even with a short bed. Without a forklift you'll really struggle attempting to unload the pallet intact, but you can just cut the banding, unbolt the pieces, and remove items one by one from the pallet.

Anyone know how heavy the heaviest part if you were to unbolt it is?