You should check out Dannmar's new MX-6. It's ALI certified with 7 automatic safety locks. And you don't have to paint anythingwww.maxjaxusa.com
Awesome lift!
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MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison
- Thread starter Dolfan
- Start date
Awesome lift!
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The epoxy is really thick. Check out this thread.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120172
Call wejit they probably have answered this question about 100 times. Almost every maxjax install in a residential garage is similar to yours.
Epoxy is the way to go. You risk blowing out the bottom of the holes with expansion anchors.
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Todd.Brock
Well-known member
Is the coffee filter recommendation from GES patented too? Selling epoxy anchors as an alternative to wedge anchors when they are almost 2" longer than the min concrete depth recommendation??
Your comment nails my frustration exactly
It is not obvious from the site that the epoxy anchors have a different requirement. I recall somewhere that 5" is recommended for the epoxy set. That still means you are using them in a way not intended by the manufacture with imprecise directions.
I use implement my fair share of duct tape and wd40 innovation, but this is not an area I want to get creative.
I have everything built but I haven't drilled my slab yet. I read the instructions very carefully last night and don't feel much wiser.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
You can drill the holes very carefully so as to not blow out(spall) the underside of the slab.Determine the actual depth of the concrete with a wire feeler.If the hole is short you can pound down the bottom of the hole with a steel drift of the proper diameter and then grout the bottom of the hole with structural grout packed down with the aforementioned drift and re-drill the hole to proper depth.Make sure to have extra tubes of EPOXY, not acrylic glue.This has been explained many times here.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Very sensible solution I was working on a similar idea internally. I was considering using a TON of epoxy to fill below the hole, or trying to get somehow get concrete through the 7/8 hole.
However structural grout seems like the perfect solution. As you said, Im just looking to make the hole blind, and I want to be extra cautious that the epoxy is tolerant of the material
Thanks, I had seen that thread many times, but somehow missed the suggestion
However structural grout seems like the perfect solution. As you said, Im just looking to make the hole blind, and I want to be extra cautious that the epoxy is tolerant of the material
Thanks, I had seen that thread many times, but somehow missed the suggestion
Durango_GarageMaHal
Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2010
- Messages
- 7
Read this thread from cover to cover, thanks for all the great information.
I am about ready to pull the trigger on MaxJax MX-6, but when you start adding in all the adapters (3", 6", etc.) the price really climbs up close to a BendPak XPR-9S or 9S-LP.
I built my garage with the intention of having a lift someday. Slab is minimum 5" pour, closer to 6" in many places, of 5000 psi concrete rebar enforced. Used scissor trusses with 10' side walls, so it is close to 13' at the center peak. Not high enough for full size overhead lift (bad planning on my part).
I like the idea of being able to have anchors both in the garage and out on the driveway, but that is not a deal breaker.
For all you current owners, given the option, would you have gone with a full-sized 2 post lift instead of the Max Jax? I currently work on everything from Audi SUV, Toyota Land Cruiser FJ100, old GMC K3500 w/ 454. Who knows what toys might show up in the future.
Thanks for your advice and comments.
I am about ready to pull the trigger on MaxJax MX-6, but when you start adding in all the adapters (3", 6", etc.) the price really climbs up close to a BendPak XPR-9S or 9S-LP.
I built my garage with the intention of having a lift someday. Slab is minimum 5" pour, closer to 6" in many places, of 5000 psi concrete rebar enforced. Used scissor trusses with 10' side walls, so it is close to 13' at the center peak. Not high enough for full size overhead lift (bad planning on my part).
I like the idea of being able to have anchors both in the garage and out on the driveway, but that is not a deal breaker.
For all you current owners, given the option, would you have gone with a full-sized 2 post lift instead of the Max Jax? I currently work on everything from Audi SUV, Toyota Land Cruiser FJ100, old GMC K3500 w/ 454. Who knows what toys might show up in the future.
Thanks for your advice and comments.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Durango, I have plenty of height and choose the MaxJax. My reasons were I liked that I wasn't pinned down to one lift location, any height lift is better than jack stands plus I'm not going to be under it weekly. Last it was cheaper.
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Durango_GarageMaHal
Member
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- Mar 22, 2010
- Messages
- 7
Thanks Shorty. I totally agree after dropping the transfer case and steering box out of the 3500 using jack stands. The multiple lift locations is the main selling point I see for the MaxJax over the Bendpak.
I want to follow up in case anybody finds my question in search. Danmar called me and recommended the coffee filter method. I think that would work fine but It still didnt feelright to me.
Thankfully the Radar estimate of my slab thickness was a bit conservative and only 2 of the 10 holes poked through when drilled to 6". For the 2 holes, I packed the earth below with a dowel and squirted in a bit of the inject tite epoxy. After it cured I redrilled to 6" and I had the proper blind hole. I have no worriesabout compatibility and I am confident that the holes were sealed well enough to ensure epoxy is in the annulus between the anchors and the slab.
It took me quite some time to drill the holes. The reconditioned bosch hammer drill I bought worked fantastically (if not quietly!). However, the instructions want you to use the posts as a drilling guide. Many of the holes in my posts were just undersized enough that I couldent get the 7/8 bit to rotate without getting hung up on steel.I had to keep repositioninng the posts so that one of the "big" holes was over where I wanted to drill. Even with wheels it is time consuming to get the posts aligned to say +/- .05". I think I could have just drilled the holes where I marked them with a sharpie, but I was in full caution mode. They aligned perfectly when everything was done.
I really think the lift should come with a flexible pigtail line for the quick disconnects. The "zigzag" 45 degree fittings into the cylinders are a bit problematic for a few reasons. I had to take one post apart a few times to get the fittings just right so they dont hang up on the post cut-out and so I have enough clearance to put in the center bolt.
My last problem is since I did the first set of holes in 2 steps, I need another mixing thing-a-ma-bob for the injet-tite. I suspect I will need a hair more than 2 cartiridges as well since i used some to fill the bottom of 2 of the holes. Inject-tite is not super common to find on the interwebs. I ordered some more from stanley fasteners, but there was a 2 cartridge minimum and 16$ shipping. I think I am in for 50$ or so for what probably amounts to only needing 5 ml of epoxy.
I live in houston suburbia, and being locked at home with all the awful flooding I got to spend some time in the garage to take my mind off the depressing local news.
Thankfully the Radar estimate of my slab thickness was a bit conservative and only 2 of the 10 holes poked through when drilled to 6". For the 2 holes, I packed the earth below with a dowel and squirted in a bit of the inject tite epoxy. After it cured I redrilled to 6" and I had the proper blind hole. I have no worriesabout compatibility and I am confident that the holes were sealed well enough to ensure epoxy is in the annulus between the anchors and the slab.
It took me quite some time to drill the holes. The reconditioned bosch hammer drill I bought worked fantastically (if not quietly!). However, the instructions want you to use the posts as a drilling guide. Many of the holes in my posts were just undersized enough that I couldent get the 7/8 bit to rotate without getting hung up on steel.I had to keep repositioninng the posts so that one of the "big" holes was over where I wanted to drill. Even with wheels it is time consuming to get the posts aligned to say +/- .05". I think I could have just drilled the holes where I marked them with a sharpie, but I was in full caution mode. They aligned perfectly when everything was done.
I really think the lift should come with a flexible pigtail line for the quick disconnects. The "zigzag" 45 degree fittings into the cylinders are a bit problematic for a few reasons. I had to take one post apart a few times to get the fittings just right so they dont hang up on the post cut-out and so I have enough clearance to put in the center bolt.
My last problem is since I did the first set of holes in 2 steps, I need another mixing thing-a-ma-bob for the injet-tite. I suspect I will need a hair more than 2 cartiridges as well since i used some to fill the bottom of 2 of the holes. Inject-tite is not super common to find on the interwebs. I ordered some more from stanley fasteners, but there was a 2 cartridge minimum and 16$ shipping. I think I am in for 50$ or so for what probably amounts to only needing 5 ml of epoxy.
I live in houston suburbia, and being locked at home with all the awful flooding I got to spend some time in the garage to take my mind off the depressing local news.
Durango_GarageMaHal
Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2010
- Messages
- 7
Aschen. Stay safe and dry. It's good to have projects to distract you.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Excellent work!
The lift points on my van are 75.2" apart. Since the arms only extend to 40", this means the arms would have to widened to damned near parallel to the car to get the lift pads that far apart.
Can someone who has one try to get their pads that far apart and then tell me if there's still enough angle in the arms to space the posts away from the car enough to make it easy to drive between and easy to exit the vehicle once you drive it in?
Can someone who has one try to get their pads that far apart and then tell me if there's still enough angle in the arms to space the posts away from the car enough to make it easy to drive between and easy to exit the vehicle once you drive it in?
How centered, left to right, does the vehicle need to be between posts? If it's offset 12" or even more, is that going to be an issue? Imagine posts are where I want them to be, but ceiling obstruction requires vehicle to be pushed to one direction to clear obstruction. I'm thinking MX6 here, with mechanical lock every 3.5" or so. So, if it started to lift unevenly, hopefully it'd be level once I released the pressure. Thoughts?
I center my cars with an inch or two. Don't take chances with it off balance
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williamroberts
New member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2017
- Messages
- 1
can some one with this maxjax email me i have some questions my email is [email protected]
NewShockerGuy
Well-known member
Just ask your questions here... That's why this is a forum. Your questions might benefit someone else as well.
-Nigel
Ok folks, my MX6 was just ordered. I went through a few ignored emails trying to get them to adjust their Amazon price to match their website. Some of you might have rewards card for using amazon. Mine gives back 5%. So I just ordered mine from amazon. I called to confirm it includes all the extras like 3 yr warranty, free lift gate, etc. it does. I also was not charged tax even though I’m in NC which is one of the States that usually gets tax added to my orders.
Makoto
Well-known member
someone asked about centering cars. I don't worry about it too much and have never had any issues. I haven't moved my right post since I installed it a few years ago.
still loving my maxjax.
still loving my maxjax.
Bill-banger
Active member
I just got a replacement cylinder for my lift, as the original one was leaking, and after installation it leans out a good bit, so much so that with a car on it the top of the cylinder hits the tie bar . What did I do wrong in assembling It?
Bill-banger
Active member
And FWIW, Dannmar is selling direct now at a really great price.
Jvvmusme
Well-known member
still loving my maxjax
best purchase ever made for my garage
best purchase ever made for my garage
Rodbuilder
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 42
I am a big fan of mine as well. I installed it about 3 yrs ago I believe. I have a 12' tall bay in a 3car garage and opted for a MaxJax so that I could move it when I didn't need it. One of the posts gets moved very infrequently. Works very well for me.
Put it in the glide block backwards? The hole is not centered.
Denee007
Well-known member
Wow, it's been a long time since I've been on the GJ! But I do get occasional emails from threads I've been on!
I feel I've done just about everything, encountered weird things on the MJ's, but the one you're describing is rather unique and I'd say just requires some close inspection during its travel up n down.
I must say the newer models don't go up and down as quickly, but still work Ok. I need to order a spare hydraulic cylinder which I consider is a weakness of the MJs. I think they're about 80 bucks or so.
At our flooded home, both my Maxjax's and everything we own was under flood water for two weeks. The maxjax columns are ok, needed extensive cleaning, but the electric pumps both died. At 450 per electric motor/pump assembly, kind of hurt
At our new location in Cypress, Tx, I got to have the fun of drilling new anchors in 3 locations! lucky me!
This pic was at our home which flooded, I had the TR6 up as high as it would go, but still got half way up on it. I was using the Kwik-lift as a means of making a "4 post" lift.
At our newer home in Cypress, here I'm hard at work re-restoring my 67 Mustang.
A maxjax saved my Triumph Tr6, well, the flood water from Harvey did get to the middle of my triumph, but wasn't near as much work as my 67 Mustang which was under 6' of nasty flood water for 2 weeks! I'm still working on it today; got a ways to go yet.
I feel I've done just about everything, encountered weird things on the MJ's, but the one you're describing is rather unique and I'd say just requires some close inspection during its travel up n down.
I must say the newer models don't go up and down as quickly, but still work Ok. I need to order a spare hydraulic cylinder which I consider is a weakness of the MJs. I think they're about 80 bucks or so.
At our flooded home, both my Maxjax's and everything we own was under flood water for two weeks. The maxjax columns are ok, needed extensive cleaning, but the electric pumps both died. At 450 per electric motor/pump assembly, kind of hurt
At our new location in Cypress, Tx, I got to have the fun of drilling new anchors in 3 locations! lucky me!
This pic was at our home which flooded, I had the TR6 up as high as it would go, but still got half way up on it. I was using the Kwik-lift as a means of making a "4 post" lift.
At our newer home in Cypress, here I'm hard at work re-restoring my 67 Mustang.
A maxjax saved my Triumph Tr6, well, the flood water from Harvey did get to the middle of my triumph, but wasn't near as much work as my 67 Mustang which was under 6' of nasty flood water for 2 weeks! I'm still working on it today; got a ways to go yet.
Rodbuilder
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 42
Wow, it's been a long time since I've been on the GJ! But I do get occasional emails from threads I've been on!
I feel I've done just about everything, encountered weird things on the MJ's, but the one you're describing is rather unique and I'd say just requires some close inspection during its travel up n down.
I must say the newer models don't go up and down as quickly, but still work Ok. I need to order a spare hydraulic cylinder which I consider is a weakness of the MJs. I think they're about 80 bucks or so.
At our flooded home, both my Maxjax's and everything we own was under flood water for two weeks. The maxjax columns are ok, needed extensive cleaning, but the electric pumps both died. At 450 per electric motor/pump assembly, kind of hurt
At our new location in Cypress, Tx, I got to have the fun of drilling new anchors in 3 locations! lucky me!
This pic was at our home which flooded, I had the TR6 up as high as it would go, but still got half way up on it. I was using the Kwik-lift as a means of making a "4 post" lift.
At our newer home in Cypress, here I'm hard at work re-restoring my 67 Mustang.
A maxjax saved my Triumph Tr6, well, the flood water from Harvey did get to the middle of my triumph, but wasn't near as much work as my 67 Mustang which was under 6' of nasty flood water for 2 weeks! I'm still working on it today; got a ways to go yet.
So sorry to your cars flooded like that. We lost our house boat in Key Largo in Erma.
Quick question, what is the distance between your posts, inside post to inside post, or base to base?
Thanks
Denee007
Well-known member
Thank you!
As for the distance, I'm measuring from the outside to outside of the columns, I have them set at 120", when I first installed them, I had the set to 118", I think recommended is 125". I Just felt they were getting too far apart at 125" but does probably help with getting out of a car, or keeps from bashing a door into the post. I'm pretty skinny and don't have that problem.
dne'
As for the distance, I'm measuring from the outside to outside of the columns, I have them set at 120", when I first installed them, I had the set to 118", I think recommended is 125". I Just felt they were getting too far apart at 125" but does probably help with getting out of a car, or keeps from bashing a door into the post. I'm pretty skinny and don't have that problem.
dne'
Denee007
Well-known member
I meant to say outside to outside of the base plates, not the columns themselves! that make sense?
Rodbuilder
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 42
Yes, thank you. I've had mine for about 10 years but recently moved and forgot to take measurements.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Very sorry for your hardship..... I wish they were $80. I just got a quote from them....$325 plus freight
Attachments
shortykorte
Well-known member
Why are you needing to replace the cylinders? Something is leaking on my MJ. Hope it’s a fitting.
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Biz Jet Tech
Member
Yes they are, AND, they price match.....I found Home Depot was having a one day sale on MaxJax (an exclusive "special buy of the day" for $1599) and asked MaxJax https://www.maxjaxusa.com/ if they would price match (so I could save the sales tax) and they did !! Got what I felt is a super great deal on MaxJax at $1599 delivered !!
Denee007
Well-known member
Wow, that's a heck of a price!! You've got questions, we've got answers!
Yesterday I ordered two cylinder repair kits. and yes, 325.oo for a replacment! darn!! They must make their money on selling parts.
Yesterday I ordered two cylinder repair kits. and yes, 325.oo for a replacment! darn!! They must make their money on selling parts.
curiousB
Well-known member
I just installed my Dannmar M-6 (cousin to MAXJAX). Pretty disappointed with the anchors. I followed directions exactly, used a commercial grade SDS drill ($70 to rent it) with 7/8" bit. Still some of the anchors spin so I can't get to proper torque and others pulled up 1/4" above surface.
I have just learned the anchors are not 5/8"-11 (Wej-it PD58) but instead some sort of metric knock off (M16 x 2.0mm pitch). I wonder if the 7/8" hole is even the right size for these metric anchors.
Paid a premium for the M-6 over the Maxjax for the ALI certification but if the anchors are suspect the whole thing is suspect. Don't feel like going under a lift with anchors I can't torque to proper level with.
I see they have an epoxy anchor kit. Is is M16 x 2.0 pitch of is it 5/8"-11 pitch?
Seems this anchoring problem is pretty widespread.
Any suggestions to repair this?
I have just learned the anchors are not 5/8"-11 (Wej-it PD58) but instead some sort of metric knock off (M16 x 2.0mm pitch). I wonder if the 7/8" hole is even the right size for these metric anchors.
Paid a premium for the M-6 over the Maxjax for the ALI certification but if the anchors are suspect the whole thing is suspect. Don't feel like going under a lift with anchors I can't torque to proper level with.
I see they have an epoxy anchor kit. Is is M16 x 2.0 pitch of is it 5/8"-11 pitch?
Seems this anchoring problem is pretty widespread.
Any suggestions to repair this?
Denee007
Well-known member
I'm so sorry to hear you had problems I gave up on mechanical anchors a long time ago. When they work, they're fine, but when the loosen, or go above the concrete, I too would have concern about being underneath my MJ.
I'm a firm believer in the epoxy anchors. I'd have to go in the garage to see what bit I used, but I'm pretty sure it was 7/8 and I did not use a 5/8 pilot. I have relocated my MJ's numerous times, as I have two complete maxjax lifts, actually 5 columns(don't ask).
So when you're asking about repairing, do you mean what you have, or going with the expoxy anchors? I suppose you could try 'resetting' the mechanical anchors, but I think one they "slip" and loose their tooth, what you get is what you get.
If epoxy is in your future, get an extra tube of epoxy, or even two extra. after drilling, clean the holes with a wire brush(I used a battery cleaning brush which was about 6" long), blow clean with compressed air. I highly suggest two people when drilling to watch that you're drilling a vertical hole, how many times have I thought I was drilling straight, only to be off a few degrees!argh!
how thick is your concrete? did you hit dirt when drilling the existing holes? If so, you may be able to drive the mechanical anchors down into the dirt into oblivion never to be seen again. I have packed paper down into a hole trying to make a stop for the epoxy so it just doesn't flow under the slab. The expoxy is pretty thick. I wear a few layers of nitrile gloves and meticulously coat the anchor and epoxy into the hole. I've never had a problem. However if the drilled holes are in thick concrete and cannot drive the mechanical anchors through, you may have to relocate and just fill the old holes.
Holler back, let's see what you have to say and perhaps others may chime in with their experiences.
dne'
I gave up on mechanical anchors a long time ago. When they work, they're fine, but when the loosen, or go above the concrete, I too would have concern about being underneath my MJ. I'm a firm believer in the epoxy anchors. I'd have to go in the garage to see what bit I used, but I'm pretty sure it was 7/8 and I did not use a 5/8 pilot. I have relocated my MJ's numerous times, as I have two complete maxjax lifts, actually 5 columns(don't ask).
So when you're asking about repairing, do you mean what you have, or going with the expoxy anchors? I suppose you could try 'resetting' the mechanical anchors, but I think one they "slip" and loose their tooth, what you get is what you get.
If epoxy is in your future, get an extra tube of epoxy, or even two extra. after drilling, clean the holes with a wire brush(I used a battery cleaning brush which was about 6" long), blow clean with compressed air. I highly suggest two people when drilling to watch that you're drilling a vertical hole, how many times have I thought I was drilling straight, only to be off a few degrees!argh!
how thick is your concrete? did you hit dirt when drilling the existing holes? If so, you may be able to drive the mechanical anchors down into the dirt into oblivion never to be seen again. I have packed paper down into a hole trying to make a stop for the epoxy so it just doesn't flow under the slab. The expoxy is pretty thick. I wear a few layers of nitrile gloves and meticulously coat the anchor and epoxy into the hole. I've never had a problem. However if the drilled holes are in thick concrete and cannot drive the mechanical anchors through, you may have to relocate and just fill the old holes.
Holler back, let's see what you have to say and perhaps others may chime in with their experiences.
dne'
curiousB
Well-known member
Thanks for the thoughts. My pad is 4.5”-5.5” thick so my holes go clear through. Punching the fasteners through is a viable option. Can you recommend an epoxy based fastener type?
I did get some hydraulic oil down a couple of the holes when I had to repair a fitting leak. I have some concern that soaked into concrete and could jeopardize epoxy bonding to concrete. I have tried washing it with some brake cleaner.
How long are the glue type anchors?. I don’t want to pour 45 gallons of epoxy down the hole to set the anchors.... I’m hoping I can stuff some foam or something to plug bottom 1” of hole before using glue fasteners.
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I did get some hydraulic oil down a couple of the holes when I had to repair a fitting leak. I have some concern that soaked into concrete and could jeopardize epoxy bonding to concrete. I have tried washing it with some brake cleaner.
How long are the glue type anchors?. I don’t want to pour 45 gallons of epoxy down the hole to set the anchors.... I’m hoping I can stuff some foam or something to plug bottom 1” of hole before using glue fasteners.
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