I ordered it through American Made Carports who is just the dealer. The manufacturer and install was C and A Metal Structures. Both companies got bad reviews. Intact, I couldn't find a company that didn't get bad reviews. I had a chat with them before they started that basically said that I expect a white glove install, and I will be around to check up. I also told them they will be taken care of at the end. The install was clean and took 3 days. I don't understand why people are impressed that the build only takes a day. As for no concrete apron, that was the one embarrassing oversight on my part. There were no issues, although I'm doing a stone approach around the entire building. That will cost me alot of time and a machine rental. Again, bowing my head in shame. I should have over poured by 3 feet all around. (Bowing head in embarrassment and shame).
Meatal building questions
- Thread starter blastan21
- Start date
I think to go vertical siding on my building it will be an extra 1,000 or 1,200 bucks which isn't bad but I also wonder if it would be more beneficial to go with 4ft on center legs as I'm attaching 1x4s atleast every 2 feet to attach whatever I skin the walls with so that would take place of the girls.
I have a 24x40 that I put up myself. I have the horizonal siding and what another poster says about it growing moss and looking dirtier is true. My regular garage that has metal siding that is vertical does not have that problem. Fortunately, people can't see it so it's not a big issue. I store my cars in it (unheated) so when I put it together, I bought all the molded seals for it and also put foam between the bottom rail and the slab to keep water and bugs out. I also slid the roof panels down a few inches to allow for a ridge vent. I did double bubble on the roof and it stays dry in there all year round here in Ohio. I don't have any condensation issues. I did put a vapor barrier under the slab when it was poured. Maybe you'll find this useful or not. 
Oh, having those 4" oc will make life a whole lot easier.
I will be the same. I'll be there during Install and if I see something I want corrected I'll speak up and it will be resolved right then. I plan on making the slab a couple Inches bigger all the way around and adding a 2x to the edge of the form to create a lip. That will set the post back from the edge a couple more inches and allow the siding to extend down past the frame
That's what I'm thinking.. I plan on insulating with foam board and it would probaly pay to go 4ft on center for that reason alone. By the time I cut 1' strips and all the extra taping I'll have to do on 5' centers
I was there during the installation and the craftsmanship was good but safety was not.
I went into the woods for a bit and came back just in time to see them using the ladders wrong and the lead tech fall about 15’, get knocked out, and break an arm. I thought he was hurt worse than that. It delayed the rest of the build a few weeks
I don't doubt that at all.. must say I enjoy a good Osha violation tho
Joe_Lee
Active member
Nice, let us know what siding you choose (vertical or horizontal). Inquiring minds want to know LOL. I'm still trying to decide on that myself.
Will do.
Joe_Lee
Active member
Well, I signed the contract and paid the deposit on my building this afternoon.
Tubular metal building
24x36x12
12 gauge frame
5' centers
Horizontal siding
Single bubble roof insulation
Tubular metal building
24x36x12
12 gauge frame
5' centers
Horizontal siding
Single bubble roof insulation
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Congratulations. I signed my papers and deposit new years eve. I'm going 30x40 and really want a lean to on each side but my landscape is very challenging to.i have 5 acres but i live on hill and have a flood plain below me. This is what I started with and a couple pictures of moving the dirt. I still have a few days left of knocking trees down and leveling the pad.. the creek picture will be my view from the shop tho so can't complain
Joe_Lee
Active member
Beautiful property!
I appreciate it. It's been alot of work. It was completely grown up and you couldn't even see the creek a year ago.. good luck on your build and keep us updated
Go with the 4 foot spacing.
When I did mine the salesman sucked and did not even mention this was an option (nor did he mention the colored screws), and the 5' spacing pisses me off every time I need to do something on the walls.
I think almost half of my posts on here are on this subject, the spacing and the horizontal roofing are my only regrets on my building. Well, waiting five years to insulate was bad, but part of that was how fed up I got trying to foam board the 5' gaps. I got so fed up I tore what I had done out and spray foamed it.
When I did mine the salesman sucked and did not even mention this was an option (nor did he mention the colored screws), and the 5' spacing pisses me off every time I need to do something on the walls.
I think almost half of my posts on here are on this subject, the spacing and the horizontal roofing are my only regrets on my building. Well, waiting five years to insulate was bad, but part of that was how fed up I got trying to foam board the 5' gaps. I got so fed up I tore what I had done out and spray foamed it.
Yea I've researched alot of post on here and I seen a few guys and (I'm sure your one of them) stress fhe 4' spacing.. my salesman ***** too but the company has good reviews so I hope the builders make up for it.. I was asking about footers and how long the wedge anchors they use are and he kept trying to tell me they use 30 inch anchors. I got tired of trying to explain to him that's not possible
happyj
Well-known member
What do you do for vapor barrier when you use foam board? Working on a quote with the builder and he is trying to convince me I need pink panther (vapor barrier) for the roof. I was thinking that would be the wrong side for my area. (Seattle WA) Did you use tyvek on the exterior?
Thanks in advance
In my research I've seen some guys use the foil faced foam board and turn the foil face both ways. I think it depends on if your planning more on heating or cooling. I haven't built yet but I have thought about once I get insulated wrapping the inside with tyvek before close my walls off.
happyj
Well-known member
Thank you, my pondering as well. In this case I was concerned about adding a vapor barrier under the metal roof panels and then when I installed the foam having another vapor barrier with the foil. That seems like I would sandwich the foam between vapor barrier and would cause issues. So am thinking I would rather forgo the vapor barrier under the metal roof panels.
I was going to do the bubble wrap but it's mostly just a vapor barrier and the company building the garage wanted 5k to do the roof and walls and I can insulate with 2" foam board for less than that and it will actually be insulated.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
The double bubble and several other thin insulation product placed under the roof are not there to function as a “vapor barrier”
They are condensation blankets. They are made with just enough insulation to keep the air with moisture in the building from hitting the bottom of the roof panel that’s below the dew point, forming condensation and then raining in the building.
They are condensation blankets. They are made with just enough insulation to keep the air with moisture in the building from hitting the bottom of the roof panel that’s below the dew point, forming condensation and then raining in the building.
happyj
Well-known member
Thank you, I assumed since they were plastic they would block vapor (barrier) instead of allow vapor (retardant).
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Some of them will block vapor but that is not why they are used in the manner they are.
I have not seen if used under a roof where they tape the seams and corners like a vapor barriers would be on the inside of insulated exterior wall/ceiling. Some of them would perform well as a vapor barrier but so will visqueen for a lot less money and seams.
happyj
Well-known member
Yeah, that totally makes sense, I appreciate it
1/4atatime
Well-known member
Do you think the double legs are worth it? I'm doing a 26x30 building with 4ft oc 12guage tubing and wondering if it's worth also adding the double legs. Part of me thinks that I should get it because that would probably be enough strength on the walls to be able to put OSB sheeting up and hang hang things off like a small wall mounted cabinet and some shelves? Do you believe that to be the case?
Volcom
Member
Yeah, I think so. I like the double legs on my building.
1/4atatime
Well-known member
Thanks for the feedback. Looking like the double legs are going on the building. Also because the budget opened up a little because it's looking like setbacks are going to force me into a 28x25 build that's another fun challenge I'm working through.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Have you ever been on YouTube?
I can't decipher this and I'm about to need to do it. Can you explain what you did another way? Draw a picture?
Thanks!
dante2
Well-known member
Cut 1 piece into four 1ft x 8ft strips add to 1 uncut piece to fill a 5ft space.