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Mechanics: Tips and tricks you've learned

guitarbutt

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Sep 29, 2017
Messages
237
I'd like to learn as many things as I train to be a mechanic. To professional mechanics to those who work on their own cars, what are some tips you can pass along that you have been taught, stumbled across, learned the hard way, learned in hindsight, or learned as an eye opener? They don't have to be earth shattering, but we've all needed someone or something to teach us a lesson.

I've learned many myself and will throw a couple out there too.

*Nail polish/ paint pen/ colored sharpies for marking bolts of different locations when having to remove multiple parts
*Draw a rough shape of the water pump (or other part) on cardboard and poke then different sized bolts into it. This keeps them in the right spot and prevents them from becoming mixed up
*Several strips of painter's tape over openings (if you remove a valve cover, for instance) to prevent crud and stuff from falling into the newly exposed area
*If you have an older vehicle that has an ignition module, keep an extra one and the removal tool in your vehicle
 
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subroc

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Apr 22, 2017
Messages
779
Location
Dover, NH
Don't always work this way. As a general matter, this is the way I like to work.
clean the parts as needed after disassembly
condition report make a list if there are needed parts to be repaired or ordered.
bag and tag. A general term for how to separate things. I try to keep all sub assemblies together and separate from others. Use bins, boxes, bags and tags to do that.

Here is an image of how I go about it. Each pin is separated by what is with it (washer, spacer, pin, set screw, nylon button, clip, etc) on a particular shaft or casting.

IMG-5511-2.jpg
 

532r5

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Feb 27, 2018
Messages
142
Location
Flemington New Jersey
Wow, here's a real short list. Take pictures, label parts, and don't be afraid to get parts in the way out of the way instead of trying to work around them. Don't be afraid to buy the right tool for the job.
This. Take lots of pictures with your phone. If you're disassembling something with numerous hoses and or wires mark them with color coded zip ties. Cheap and easy.

Sent from my SM-G965U using The Garage Journal mobile app
 
OP
G

guitarbutt

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Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
237
Wow, here's a real short list. Take pictures, label parts, and don't be afraid to get parts in the way out of the way instead of trying to work around them. Don't be afraid to buy the right tool for the job.

Good one. I bought the cheapest digital camera with the largest screen I could find (about $10) and keep it in the tool box
 

Djosbun

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Oct 29, 2017
Messages
236
Location
Ohio
I won't touch a rusty bolt/nut without giving it a blast of heat for about 10 seconds.

-- Dave
 

joey1320

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Jun 14, 2015
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1,813
Location
NE Ohio
Video tape difficult repairs as you remove the components. Pictures work but sometimes they aren't clear enough, specially with time between removal and install.

Use needle nose pliers to stretch hoses as you're about to put them back and either use spit, soapy water and silicone spray to make them slide easier.
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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16,858
Location
oregon
Know exactly where your going to place a heavy item BEFORE you pick it up. Clear the path between the pickup point and the placement point.

The abuse you subject your body to as a young man you pay for in old age. Use your head and not your back.

lg
no neat sig line
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
Messages
14,185
Location
Pittsburgh
I concur with using colored zip ties to match lines/hoses in crowded areas, I prefer zip ties as they can be put on filthy components without cleaning first, and removed easily. I buy the cheapo neon colored ones for such tasks.

On the same idea, use zip ties and bungies to hold wiring harnesses and similar objects out of your way. Unless removal is 100% required, make an access path, get in, change the part, get out. Touch as little as is possible. The more you touch, the more problems you invite.

Note fastener pitch and length upon removal. If they are different/random - Either mark what you are removing with a "TDC" mark, and remove all the fasteners clock-wise, or place the fasteners in the new part as they come out. This shows you where all the bolts are as well in blind areas. Remove the component, swap the fasteners into the old component top show location, and reinstall the new one.

Take the child-safety latches off all your lighters. Makes it easier to light the torch, and when used repeatedly it doesn't beat your thumb up as bad.

Quote high, and reduce cost if parts survive disassembly. Mainly a technique for shitboxes, but one needs to assume all bolts will be frozen in the bushings, expect to cut that control arm out with the torch, etc. Then attack the job as normal, and be the hero who dropped the bill, not the scammer who "upsold" them part-way through a job. All about perceptions, even if the bill is identical.

Pair part replacements to save you time, the customer money, and hassle overall. Replacing an inner on a high mileage car? Quote the inner and outer. That joint has 150k on it, and I'm not ******* around battling rotted threads to save a $50 outer. Cut the inner in half, hammer off the outer, and move on knowing that side of the steering has all fresh parts and won't need an outer and another alignment in 12 months.
 

Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
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3,209
Location
Indy
Never push hard on a handle with a bent elbow. Use a straight arm and your shoulder. When the nut breaks free or something slips your straight arm can't punch as far. It gives your knuckles a better chance of winning.

Also gloves are great.
 
Last edited:

fsae0607

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Location
San Fernando Valley, CA
Never push hard on a handle with a bent elbow. Use a straight arm and your shoulder. When the nut breaks free or something slips your straight arm can't punch as far. If gives your knuckles a better chance of winning.

Also gloves are great.

That's a good one. I'll add on to that; always try to pull on a wrench handle to save your knuckles. If you can't, then use your straight-arm method.
 
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bonneyman

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Apr 22, 2010
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Desert SW
I use breath mint tins to hold auto fuses, garden hose gaskets, schrader valve cores, and other small parts. After you eat the mints, just toss the tins into a box - you'll eventually find a use for them.

Rubber wine "corks" make great walking stick end boots, chair leg end caps, and door stop cushions. Cheap and easy to use.

Ammo containers for rifle bullets are great for holding hex bit adaptors and screw bits. Different caliber containers make them adaptable for different size bits and sockets.
 

CS454

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Oct 10, 2014
Messages
668
Yellow dot method on torqued fasteners.

A 10 pound sledge with a cut down handle is a godsend under equipment.

Wrenches will usually tell you if a bolt is about to round better than any socket.

Get the Apprentice to do it.
 

pkpk

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Aug 29, 2020
Messages
64
Location
Midwest
I love these types of threads! Non-pro DIYer here, but I learned this last week and it was a head-smacking moment: put a small piece of paper in your socket before inserting your fastener, that'll help keep it secure in the socket until you can get it where it needs to be.
 

65ranchero

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Dec 16, 2020
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Danville, VT left NJ forever
Be aware of where your face (nose )is when pulling on a wrench, when it slips hand/fist will hit your nose.

Impact is better that a ratchet and socket on a stubborn fastener (some times)

always start fasteners by hand, put all fasteners in 1st before tightening them all
Such as reinstalling a multi bolt item ( water pump, Valve cover)
 

Ralf11

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Feb 29, 2016
Messages
2,275
to work on your own car, if newly bought used, then get under there with Kroil and hose down every damn bolt & nut - tap on the ones that you can reach

repeat every time you get underneath - you'll be able to take it all apart when you need to without having to use C4 or something

also throw away the rubber brake hoses and put on new rubber ones

change ALL fluids & filters - might be a little filter in the power steering too

check the date codes on the tires - not safe if much over 5 or 6 years no matter how much tread they have

Buy good tools - used is a way to save money but cheap tools can make for an expensive job

They don't have to be shiny, just need to fit the fastener well and be strong
 

Legion Prime

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Sep 5, 2018
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Leelenau County MI
Thought never push always pull was the rule?

It's a nice guideline, however it's quite often not physically possible.

You can set the gap on your points using a dime. If you don't have a dime handy use 2 nickels.

You may have the nickels and dimes mixed up and in my experience a matchbook cover is usually what I reached for, of course we may have been setting points on wildly different systems.
I'll add that if you gotta whack on something make sure you have a chunk of brass stock or something similar. Not only is it less likely to chip/mar something than a hardened hammer face, it's also non sparking and it lets you get at stuff that may be buried behind another part or wiring harness etc. That being said make sure you regularly clean off any mushrooming, same for chisels. When chips come free they can be quite energetic and removal is often less than straightforward. While we're at it wear your damn eyepro, buy multiple sets and keep them stashed around the shop.
 

bonneyman

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.....You may have the nickels and dimes mixed up and in my experience a matchbook cover is usually what I reached for, of course we may have been setting points on wildly different systems.

The matchbook cover also seconds for a contact cleaner. The striker pad is just gritty enough to clean minor buildup off of contacts without damaging the base material. :thumbup:
 

crewchief888

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Dec 3, 2009
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13,736
Location
NW indiana
if you hit it with a hammer and it doesnt move...


you need a bigger hammer...:shocking:


i used to get asked "why do you have a 16LB sledgehammer?"


i cant swing a 20LB'r.....


:lol_hitti



:beer:
 

danscobra6

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Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
200
Location
Glendale, Arizona
On customer cars, always do a walk around especially with a new customer noting any damage on the car. Dents, missing mirrors things like that.
Always road test before and after repairs. You can check things like warning lights, pulls,
brake shimmy, noises.
After your repairs things like if a dash light is on that wasn't well you may have caused it.
These things can save a ton of time and worry.
 

woody 73

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Apr 14, 2009
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11,540
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The Great State Up North
There is this cool kat on the GJ that has been doing posts for some time time about tips and tricks, gosh I my mind is blank at this time...

I bet the op could find that cool kat if he looked real hard, I wonder who it is ?:dunno:;););)
 

ChefRex

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Jun 1, 2020
Messages
3,693
Location
NJ
Don't force that rusty fastener, coming out, lube it and put it back in, try again and repeat, going in, did you cross thread it? Did you clean the threads with a chaser?
If you deal with SS fasteners and the nut is a nylock you best lube it or it will fech up never to move again!
 

Mc817

Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Messages
18
Location
RI
Best tip I can give you is one that I was told by a very good tech when I first started out.

Be thorough.

It's simple, and obvious, but those words have come back to me many times in my career, and always served me well. People may whine if the job takes longer, but they will be furious if they have to come back and wait for you to do the job properly.

Also, be patient. The best of the best have this trait, and they never stop perfecting it. Good luck!
 

ChefRex

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Jun 1, 2020
Messages
3,693
Location
NJ
Best tip I can give you is one that I was told by a very good tech when I first started out.

Be thorough.

It's simple, and obvious, but those words have come back to me many times in my career, and always served me well. People may whine if the job takes longer, but they will be furious if they have to come back and wait for you to do the job properly.

Also, be patient. The best of the best have this trait, and they never stop perfecting it. Good luck!

:thumbup:
 
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