Works on putting that peanut butter lid back on the jar straight, too! That's an old trick, but a really good one.
Mechanics: Tips and tricks you've learned
- Thread starter guitarbutt
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Works on putting that peanut butter lid back on the jar straight, too! That's an old trick, but a really good one.
anndel
Well-known member
Bread does work on transmission pilot bearings.
Al Borland
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- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
- 1,598
Belvedere said
"A similar thing took place many times in the 80s and 90s with the Chrysler 2.2/2.5 engines: leave everything connected to the head and raise it just enough to slip the old gasket out and the new one in. Though I don't think I could bring myself to do something like that, it's surprising how often it was successful."
Also chuck the TTY head bolts and sub in LA dodge head bolts.
If you're going to do a "Slip-n-Switch", go all the way.
The head gaskets were stiff enough you could do this, and the factory gaskets usually died a week after the warranty ended. If the old gasket was complete when you pulled it, and it wasn't overheated hard, repeatedly, it was usually effective.
Put almost 100k additional on a Shadow after doing this in my driveway.
"A similar thing took place many times in the 80s and 90s with the Chrysler 2.2/2.5 engines: leave everything connected to the head and raise it just enough to slip the old gasket out and the new one in. Though I don't think I could bring myself to do something like that, it's surprising how often it was successful."
Also chuck the TTY head bolts and sub in LA dodge head bolts.
If you're going to do a "Slip-n-Switch", go all the way.
The head gaskets were stiff enough you could do this, and the factory gaskets usually died a week after the warranty ended. If the old gasket was complete when you pulled it, and it wasn't overheated hard, repeatedly, it was usually effective.
Put almost 100k additional on a Shadow after doing this in my driveway.
Ricky Joe
Well-known member
How do you use bread on transmission pilot bearings?
Not automotive, but bread does work to absorb water so you can solder copper pipes. Put the bread down inside, clean, flux, solder. Water gets held back by the bread.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
You jam it in the hole, as the bread builds up it will act as a hydraulic, and push out the bearing. I had a guy stick a 5/8 spark plug socket in a 5.4 Triton, getting it hopelessly stuck in the spark plug tube. 2/3 of a loaf of bread dislodged it. Then a long pick and compressed air removed the bread.
Less nasty than using grease, and easier to use.
ttpete
Well-known member
I always went to the toilet, grabbed a few brown paper towels, wet them, and stuffed them in. It's easier and more convenient than sending the porter out for a loaf of bread. It's also less messy.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
We dont have porters. Kid actually worked at a nearby shop within walking distance and came looking for help. Gas station between our shop and his sold him a loaf of wonder bread.
engineer2
Well-known member
On many engines the spark plug recesses will gather dust and dirt. Never hurts to blow the area out with compressed air before removing spark plugs.
I use a long spark plug socket for OHC engines. I store the "plug starter" rubber hose inside the socket so it doesn't get lost.
Never hurts to put a dab of dielectric grease on the spark plug porcelain to keep the boot from seizing.
When you clean your windows, clean the area where the wiper blades park and clean the wiper blade edges. Makes them last longer.
A tread depth gauge is a worthwhile investment.
Don't forget to air up that spare tire a couple of times a year.
I see a lot of carburetted muscle cars that are tuned too rich with eye-burning exhaust. They likely used the "adjust idle mixture for highest vacuum method". This was fine on cars from the 20's to 50's with log-type intake manifolds, but you will be way too rich on more modern engines. We tried it once on a stock SBC with a Q-jet and got 7-8% CO readings and blackened spark plugs. We found the best way was to turn the idle mixture screws in just until the rpm drops a little. That got us around 2% CO and a better running engine.
I use a long spark plug socket for OHC engines. I store the "plug starter" rubber hose inside the socket so it doesn't get lost.
Never hurts to put a dab of dielectric grease on the spark plug porcelain to keep the boot from seizing.
When you clean your windows, clean the area where the wiper blades park and clean the wiper blade edges. Makes them last longer.
A tread depth gauge is a worthwhile investment.
Don't forget to air up that spare tire a couple of times a year.
I see a lot of carburetted muscle cars that are tuned too rich with eye-burning exhaust. They likely used the "adjust idle mixture for highest vacuum method". This was fine on cars from the 20's to 50's with log-type intake manifolds, but you will be way too rich on more modern engines. We tried it once on a stock SBC with a Q-jet and got 7-8% CO readings and blackened spark plugs. We found the best way was to turn the idle mixture screws in just until the rpm drops a little. That got us around 2% CO and a better running engine.
JohnKal
Well-known member
Just make sure you take off the faucet screen before turning on the water..... ask me how I know.
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
Always check the top of a step ladder for a hammer before you move it.
Always save any loose wire nuts you find.
3/8" pipe and 7/16" bolts were sent to annoy you, and they do.
WD-40 is one of the best hand cleaners ever made.
The best surface for using holes punches on is the end of the biggest piece of lumber, beam or stump top you can find.
You can do an amazing amount of small jobs with a 4" adjustable wrench kept in you pocket.
Adding a length of stainless tubing to a blow gun makes it far more versatile.
Keep any and all pipe reducer bushings or couplers.
Always save any loose wire nuts you find.
3/8" pipe and 7/16" bolts were sent to annoy you, and they do.
WD-40 is one of the best hand cleaners ever made.
The best surface for using holes punches on is the end of the biggest piece of lumber, beam or stump top you can find.
You can do an amazing amount of small jobs with a 4" adjustable wrench kept in you pocket.
Adding a length of stainless tubing to a blow gun makes it far more versatile.
Keep any and all pipe reducer bushings or couplers.
Yes! Forgot about that one. Saves alot of time at the end of the day. Especially for paint, it comes right off.
Marvin Hagen
Well-known member
I work on a lot of Military trucks and Engineer equipment. I always say three point of contact when going on and off and do not jump off. Last pull the main negative terminal and cover it when working on the electrical system.
XxToolAholicxX
Well-known member
My 74 Datsun B-210 had a misfire I couldn’t figure out my uncle did that and I had cracks in the cap replaced the cap car ran like new..
ttpete
Well-known member
If you're changing the cap, change the rotor as well. I've seen cracked ones.
johnehr
Well-known member
I’ve just filled that cavity with grease from a grease gun and then whack an appropriately sized bolt or rod. I think that grease is probably a less compressible/more effective material to use than bread! But I guess if you need to get that pilot bushing out and only have your sandwich available, bread will get the job done.
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demarpaint
Well-known member
Here's one for an oil drain plug that's leaking because a crush washer is causing an issue, or something along those lines and the oil is not due for a change. Yes you can collect the oil in a clean drain pan, change the washer on the drain plug, etc. then pour the old oil back. Or you can leave the oil in the engine and still get the drain plug out without losing any oil.
Here's how: Get a clean shop rag, and fit it tightly onto the oil fill tube a few inches down with the fill cap off. Wrap it around the fill tube with zip ties or duct tape nice and tight. Have someone turn on a shop vac and hold it over the rag and onto the oil fill tube, with a snug fit with their hand. Remove the drain plug, the oil will remain in the engine and not get sucked out of the fill tube. Replace the crush washer and/or drain plug. Put the plug back in. This is done with the engine OFF. There are a few videos out there showing this method.
Here's how: Get a clean shop rag, and fit it tightly onto the oil fill tube a few inches down with the fill cap off. Wrap it around the fill tube with zip ties or duct tape nice and tight. Have someone turn on a shop vac and hold it over the rag and onto the oil fill tube, with a snug fit with their hand. Remove the drain plug, the oil will remain in the engine and not get sucked out of the fill tube. Replace the crush washer and/or drain plug. Put the plug back in. This is done with the engine OFF. There are a few videos out there showing this method.
seber
Well-known member
I use grease as well. It is much faster and easier than the bread method, but it requires a proper size dowel. That Youtube video shows it being done with a pretty loose fitting cap screw.
I agree, the loose screw had me doubting the bread trick would work, but he eventually got it done.
That's something I learned forever ago. For the price of a cap and rotor, just replace them when doing the plugs (and wires). Cutting corners on any of those items has a high likelihood of having to redo the job.
Mike
That's something I learned forever ago. For the price of a cap and rotor, just replace them when doing the plugs (and wires). Cutting corners on any of those items has a high likelihood of having to redo the job.
Mike
engineer2
Well-known member
If you need to find TDC on a cylinder while turning an engine over by hand, lay a plastic cap from a soda bottle over the spark plug hole. When it blows off off, you are near TDC on the compression stroke.
Wrench97
Well-known member
My junior assistant tried Mobil SHC 007 synthetic grease, it's called pourable grease used in semi trailer wheel bearings, it replaces the 90w gear oil used for many years in the hubs and is very thin for a grease.
Needless to say when he smacked the rod he was using with the hammer the bearing didn't move but the grease came out of the hole...............................
Needless to say when he smacked the rod he was using with the hammer the bearing didn't move but the grease came out of the hole...............................
richfinn
Well-known member
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
They make a TDC whistle adapter, with a rubber cone on it for the same purpose. IPA tools. You can also just throw a leak down on it, when you meet resistance, youre coming up on tdc.
For all you guys labeling, or putting bolts in sandwich bags....
I went to tech school for heavy equipment mechanics. If an instructor saw you organizing your disassembled parts he would walk by and move it all around and drop all the bolts into one bucket. He told us that we need to learn to reassemble from scratch. The same way I do it today, toss it all in a bucket and sort it out as you assemble.
Now I can understand it, and I do bag screws on hardware on a job I might not get back to in a while, but the Saturday after noon water pump, or timing chain replacement, toss it all in a bucket!
Ricky Joe
Well-known member
So, wait; nobody uses a pilot bearing puller anymore?
Bockscar
Well-known member
You can do an amazing amount of small jobs with a 4" adjustable wrench kept in you pocket.
When I was doing industrial maintenance a pocket screwdriver and a 6" Cresent wrench fixed a lot of things
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When I was doing industrial maintenance a pocket screwdriver and a 6" Cresent wrench fixed a lot of things
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I think this is an underrated skill.
I personally prefer to "peel" the job. Taking off parts in layers or stages, and putting all associated fasteners nearby. It's usually easy to take 20 clips and 20 bolts, laying on a bumper/pair of headlights, and fathom out where they went. All the head light bolts should be identical pairs, except the outer on the LF corner, where it was wrecked, that bolt isn't OE, etc.
Sometimes they're really in there, I just use a slide hammer at that point. But to be pedantic, no, all cars are basically automatic now.
I've done it both ways. I mainly do overhauls on marine diesel engines, and a guy that I learned alot from would throw all the bolts in a five gallon pail. But I noticed he wasted alot of time looking for bolts too. When I do it, i use paint buckets and label them. I don't go crazy specific, for example I'll have an oil pan bucket that has all the pan bolts, oil pump and pickup tube bolts. Then I'll have one labeled "front", that has all the bolts for the timing gears, timing cover, water pump, drive pulleys, vibration damper- everything up front. That way, when I climb under the engine, I bring one bucket. When I park my *** in front of the engine, one bucket. I'm familiar enough with most engines to go out of a single bucket, but I found this to be quicker. As far as punching the bolts through cardboard goes, I'd only consider that if I have no idea what I'm doing, and don't have access to a service manual. Like taking apart my microwave or something
engineer2
Well-known member
OP
guitarbutt
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- Joined
- Sep 29, 2017
- Messages
- 237
The plastic cap of a spray can to cover battery terminals. Worked on a Jeep that had the battery cables keep flipping back to the terminals.
Ricky Joe
Well-known member
Mine is Manzel Buffalo. I have another one, too, but can’t remember the maker. I think Red Line.
bcschief
Well-known member
I used to do a lot of Ford Econoline engine work I used 2 antifreeze jugs with the sides cut open for nuts and bolts 1 for body hardware and 1 for powertrain hardware did so many that I could identify the hardware and were it went.
MikeF2316
Well-known member
This is how I generally do it too. While being able to pick the correct bolts from a pail is a good skill, why waste that time when it's easy to stay organized? (Especially when you're on flat rate.) I generally just pile the hardware beside or in/on the part, unless the job isn't going to be finished right away, then I put it in a baggie that may or may not get labeled.
And yes, nothing like finding a couple of drywall screws holding something on.
I have some terminal covers off of new batteries. I also just shove one of them in a glove if they become a problem.
Billy Jack
Well-known member
I'm just a weekend mechanic now, even though I was ASE Certified many years ago. I've had to bail out more than a few friends who subscribed to the "all the hardware in a bucket" philosophy, that I won't do it for my own jobs. Sometimes it could be a week or two before you put it all back together and my memory ain't that good.
In addition to a bunch of the magnetic trays, I also keep a couple muffin tins under the bench. Six compartments each and big enough for things like intake and exhaust manifold bolts. You can label them with a Sharpie, either in the cup or on the flange.
Bill
In addition to a bunch of the magnetic trays, I also keep a couple muffin tins under the bench. Six compartments each and big enough for things like intake and exhaust manifold bolts. You can label them with a Sharpie, either in the cup or on the flange.
Bill
kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
Whenever I remove a part from an engine I put the bolt/nuts in a baggie and keep it with the part removed. Way more organized and don't have to scratch my head when I look at a pile of bolts and figure out what bolts are for what parts. I have to wonder how many of you that just pile all the bolts in one big pile have left over bolts/nuts after the job it finished?
Muffin tins are a great idea. You could probably stick a strong magnet in each cup to make them hold stuff in place.
I need to get better about labeling stuff. Can't tell you how many times I've started a job, bought new hardware, and got pulled away, then can't remember what the old (or new) hardware was for when I finally get back to it...
I like the glove idea for the battery terminal, will have to remember that one.
Mike
I need to get better about labeling stuff. Can't tell you how many times I've started a job, bought new hardware, and got pulled away, then can't remember what the old (or new) hardware was for when I finally get back to it...
I like the glove idea for the battery terminal, will have to remember that one.
Mike
Ricky Joe
Well-known member
When you use aerosol cleaner, use it over a dish or container so you can reuse it. Brake cleaner goes fast and not very far, but if you recover some of it it is good to drop bolts, etc. in to get them clean. Used transmission fluid is great to keep on hand to clean, soak stuck parts, etc. If you save the old gaskets, you can eventually piece them together to get one that works and save buying a new one. Ok, not the last idea, but the first two are good!