Wrench97
Well-known member
A PP doesn't load test the circuit.
But if the circuit is loaded already it will give you a voltage reading.
Mechanics: Tips and tricks you've learned
- Thread starter guitarbutt
- Start date
But if the circuit is loaded already it will give you a voltage reading.
bubinga
Well-known member
Right! You can't do it with the fuse cuz it's constantly blowing it and plus the bulb is taking a lot of the load.
Yeah good job with that clamp on amp meter!
Like I said my uncle and his dad (my grandfather) were electricians which I should have pursued but you can't go back anyways I remember they did the same thing in the house circuits in the old screw in fuse panels with a regular light bulb it would glow bright when there was a direct short.
Because your current was going directly back to ground.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Part of me wants to go to a dealer or make specific shop, and do nothing but driveability and electrical. I know I'd make less than battling rust, but when one has proper service info and wiring diagrams it's just so satisfying to diagnose things. I'll be 31 this year, I think I'll finish out my career doing mostly ICE. 20 years from now, when the 2022s are shitboxes, IMO it's over and they'll be unfixable and disposable.
Radio controls climate control, and works as the central gateway too. It fails, brings down EVERYTHING, now the car doesn't do anything as the keyless entry module can't talk to the BCM, PCM, etc. Okay, well you need a virgin module, and OEM brand whoever stopped making them 10 years ago, NLA. Vehicle totaled. Or lets say the touch screen dies, still works as a gateway. No heat or AC now, still need a virgin module, needs programming, it goes on. Ethernet...... your cheapo amazon code reader ain't talking to those ECUs either. BTDT, need to buy the adapter for my Autel, Solus has it built into the cable.
Hell people are FINALLY waking up to battery costs. No more $109 batteries installed. It's an AGM the size of a cinder block, you're getting 0.5 and more just to get the thing in and out, relearn the charging system adaptive etc. It's not 1965 anymore kids.
regguy1
Well-known member
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
^ Note to self, work at shop that has work benches.
If it was a Chevette that's probably the first time that poor thing experienced proper torque
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
Heavy equipment is in the Ethernet world now. Cat’s next gen excavators implemented an Ethernet backbone. Lots of CAN still in use but more and more Ethernet rolling out. I’m told Leibherr has been in Ethernet for a while. Going to be interesting when the typical wiring damage for normal harnesses hits those tiny tiny wires and connectors.
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RedneckWelder
Well-known member
I enjoy the hell out of electrical/electronic diagnosis and am the one in the shop the hard issues get sent to. It’s satisfying as hell to take a machine where the “other guy” replaced the seemingly faulty component and ECM and “it still doesn’t work like it’s supposed to” and track the 10 codes it’s throwing and acting like it’s possessed down to a $20 relay.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
I think you're right kroil is better..........
I still want to try that acetone and ATF mix everybody's talking about, I still got all my stuff in storage I don't even have any acetone or ATF here where I'm at but I got PB blaster this last time on Amazon cuz it was a good price but I don't think I'm that crazy about it to be honest.
My one buddy he's a dynamite wrench he swears by Kerr oil
I tried the ATF and acetone mixture wasn’t really impressed you might as well use straight ATF or KROIL itself and skip mixing. Tell you the truth penetrating oil alone doesn’t really do that much to me, add it in combo with heat whether torch or induction heater and that’s the best in my book
mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
Here's a method that I've used to remove those stuck oil filters, I haven't come across one yet that I haven't been able to remove. 4 holes in the filter cap wrench and 4 3/4 #10 self drilling screws. The screws **** up tight and self seal so the oil doesn't leak out.
Uhhhh no, never. Example: Shitbox was properly diagnosed to have a failed alternator. Said shitbox is newer than '99 and has 15 modules that should be relearned before returning to customer that just wants back on the road asap. Power windows, sunroof, SAS, throttle body, whatever... Yeah not a big deal to do with most capable scan tools but takes time. Lets say car has some battery life left and it tests good: Isolate + battery cable to alt and pigtail. R&R alt. Charge battery. DONE No screwing around with customers settings, etc.Yeah right LOL and while you're at it after you replace an alternator just leave it running and pull the battery cable off,
if it keeps running the system's charging........... not
A Load Pro might help with that. I've been interested in getting one to play with but never have.
bubinga
Well-known member
Been to McKees Rocks many times. Brought my Roland piano at Hollywood's in the rocks.
Was going to go to the auto tech school there, but couldn't get the funds.
Think it might have been called triangle tech not sure though.
bubinga
Well-known member
Yeah, that's a good idea if you're careful.Uhhhh no, never. Example: Shitbox was properly diagnosed to have a failed alternator. Said shitbox is newer than '99 and has 15 modules that should be relearned before returning to customer that just wants back on the road asap. Power windows, sunroof, SAS, throttle body, whatever... Yeah not a big deal to do with most capable scan tools but takes time. Lets say car has some battery life left and it tests good: Isolate + battery cable to alt and pigtail. R&R alt. Charge battery. DONE No screwing around with customers settings, etc.
I guess I thought I was being funny.
I was trying to be sarcastic and funny about testing the charging system like that
Sorry for the confusion I seem to be good at creating it......
Yeah, that's a good idea if you're careful.
I guess I thought I was being funny.
I was trying to be sarcastic and funny about testing the charging system like that
Sorry for the confusion I seem to be good at creating it......
Its all good! Very bad idea if you're not careful!bubinga
Well-known member
Torches are Awesome.
(Mines in storage right now too.
) Waiting for help to try to get my stuff here. Probably mostly just going to horse around with woodwork and fixing up old woodworking equipment.
I'm not looking to do too much to other people's cars, just mine if something happens.
Never used an induction heater I understand they're nice.
Since switching to Jack of all sprays I'm really happy. That stuff frees up virtually everything I spray it on. It's amazing how I expect it to work now and it does.I think you're right kroil is better..........
I still want to try that acetone and ATF mix everybody's talking about, I still got all my stuff in storage I don't even have any acetone or ATF here where I'm at but I got PB blaster this last time on Amazon cuz it was a good price but I don't think I'm that crazy about it to be honest.
My one buddy he's a dynamite wrench he swears by Kerr oil
bubinga
Well-known member
What's Well-known member "65" 65 years old? (That's what I am, well 66 this month)
time goes too fast.
I worked at the Sunoco on Banksville Road near Mcmonagle across from the plaza for a good while
Wrench97
Well-known member
Use a light bulb same results for a lot less money.
DemoFly
Well-known member
All jobs, even routine gravy jobs, become ~400% easier when well lit.
bwringer
Well-known member
I'm not a pro, just some guy good at figuring things out. So no, I haven't used a Power Probe. It would be a time saver if I did a ton of electrical diagnosis for money, but the things are stoopit expensive and I'd rather have the money in my pocket. So I'll continue to use test leads and a volt meter to perform the same tests.
BTW, one tool I did splash out on that has been INCREDIBLY handy for 12V electrics is an amp clamp that works with DC. Surprisingly hard to find, but daggum is it ever useful.
BRILLIANT! I'll steal this, if you don't mind. I mean, I hope I don't have to, but it'll come up sometime I'm sure. That's a simple fast solution when you have access to the end of the filter like that.
That's a pretty decent partial solution to the light bulbs. I'd be interested in a switchable version that goes up to 5 amps. And having a light bulb to watch is often a lot more handy than a voltage drop reading when you're wiggling wires and connectors somewhere else.
Since switching to Jack of all sprays I'm really happy. That stuff frees up virtually everything I spray it on. It's amazing how I expect it to work now and it does.
Interesting! I'll have to give it a shot.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I bought one years ago..... would not recommend as their are better options. Although it does what it says it will do, and it worked for me as a testing tool for the basic work I did.
IIRC it's a 600ma load. My issue is the design of the tool itself. Yes, push the button, at 600ma, confirm your results on the meter are still good. Yep, that works. Problem is with the physical design. The tip is a standard meter tip size, so.... it doesn't fit anywhere. I don't remember if it has a little gator clip included, I don't think it does. So now you need jumper wires to actually connect this thing into a circuit. 600ma is a good load for a vent valve. I'm not condemning a block ground or fuel pump with 600ma. It's not a "bad" tool. The older videos I saw were of the designer using it on trailer wiring. Probably works awesome for that. Solid tool in that environment. Issue being I find it difficult at best to insert into a circuit to test it. I would say it would be more valuable with a banana jack at the nose to add a standard leads and probes to.
OP
guitarbutt
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2017
- Messages
- 237
Sheesh this got off topic for a while, two pages with lots of anecdotes about Pennsylvania.. Those headlight test bulbs are a clever idea; I may have to steal that.
Something I've recently learned was always carry a spare relay in your old truck. You can feel how cheap they are and they take minutes to replace when it dies alongside the road.
Something I've recently learned was always carry a spare relay in your old truck. You can feel how cheap they are and they take minutes to replace when it dies alongside the road.
Dude, you won't be disappointed! I bought a used hot water carpet cleaner (old Bissel green machine). My original one finally after 25 years just fell apart, but it was so great i searched for a replacement.
This one had a seized water pump - part is NLA from Bissel. Soaked with Jack spray for 2 days. Dang thing broke free after two "on" attempts and started pumping. Amazing!
I emailed the company with questions before buying - the company president answered my email! Who does that anymore?
Al Borland
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
- 1,598
Dodge LA series engines, 273, 318, 340, 360. Match the bolts length for length. NOT Torque-To-Yield.
mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
I don't mind it's yours to do with as you please lol, make sure you use the zip screws with the point, if you use the tech screws with the drill on the end they'll strip out that metal is awfully thin on those filters.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
the designer was a heavy equipment mechanic by trade so he’s used to Deutsch connectors and a little bit larger connectors and wiring than car stuff.
the modern high density connectors are a lot more aggravating with a big bulky tool like the loadpro.
i have one and it has its place in my troubleshooting methods.
Turning 30 next year myself... I'm slotting myself into EV's now as my agency is diving headfirst into them. I got away from cars because I thought they were needlessly complex and now look at me, hahaha.
If you're getting it now, we'll see it in 10 years. We still have a handful of equipment on Slick 50, haha.
Learn the laptop, folks... it's the new 12" adjustable.
CGarage
Well-known member
This thread deserves a bump. Some real good advice here.
Legion Prime
Well-known member
Hell I'd just swap in the horn relay. If it gets a fuel pump running I can live without a horn on the drive to the parts store. LOL
bwringer
Well-known member
Yeah, I agree.
Here's one I, well, reinforced just yesterday: make sure you have the long stuff.
Whatever tools you use most, put together a supply of the loooooooooooong versions. You can often save an impressive amount of disassembly time and angst if you can snake a foot-long tool into tight spaces instead of taking half the vehicle apart.
Yesterday, my foot-long ball end 4mm hex driver absolutely saved the day when replacing a throttle cable on one of my motorcycles. There was just enough room to reach in there from the left side of the bike. It had to be a ball end because there was no access to the throttle body clamps straight-on, and only a skinny little driver could have worked its way through all the assorted wires and hoses; a socket on an extension wouldn't have made it.
I also have three foot long flat and #2 Phillips screwdrivers that have saved me hours of disassembly by allowing throttle body adjustments on other bikes to be done without removing everything in the way.
I bought a super-deep 10mm socket on the same principle. I haven't yet found its use... but I will someday.
Legion Prime
Well-known member
Yup, that's why a finagled a 3' impact extension out of one of the trucks. One end goes on my 1/2" IR and the other takes my 3/8 impact swivels. Get someone to guide the swivels on and transmissions are out in a matter of minutes.
Conversely make sure you have super super SHORT versions as well. I had a set of mini BluePoint 1/4 hex ratchets, stick in a chopped down hex (or was it torx?) bit and I could swap VW/Audi window blocks while they were still in the door. Also the bondhus double ball end hex keys? They made short work of the intake flanges on my motorcycle. I liked them so much I went out and bought the metric set too, just in case.
There is at least one guy on every shop who is taking one of those fasteners and hiding it, and then having a great day three weeks later watching you search for it.
bwringer
Well-known member
One more very specific recommendation proven through recent experience: if you work with very many hex socket fasteners (AKA "Allen Head"), the you MUST get yourself some Wera Hex Plus tools.
www-de.wera.de
The magic really, honestly works. You can put a ridiculous amount of torque on these things to break stubborn or even damaged hex fasteners loose. A set of the plain hex-plus L-keys for breaking fasteners loose is not very expensive and will save the day for you many times. They are truly a game changer, for real, no kidding.
Related bonus recommendation: if you use L-keys, this magnetic spring-loaded hex key holder from Fireball tool is pure shop decadence compared to farting around with those crappy plastic holders.
fireballtool.com
Fireball offers the option of PB Swiss hex keys, and they are very high quality, but as mentioned above, the Wera Hex Plus keys are the game changer.
Hex-Plus
Hex socket screws with rounded out heads are not uncommon. Working on these screws is usually difficult and frustrating. We took a close look at the hexagon form and improved it. Screwdrivers with Hex-Plus have a larger contact surface, and prevent the destruction of the screw head, providing up...
www-de.wera.de
The magic really, honestly works. You can put a ridiculous amount of torque on these things to break stubborn or even damaged hex fasteners loose. A set of the plain hex-plus L-keys for breaking fasteners loose is not very expensive and will save the day for you many times. They are truly a game changer, for real, no kidding.
Related bonus recommendation: if you use L-keys, this magnetic spring-loaded hex key holder from Fireball tool is pure shop decadence compared to farting around with those crappy plastic holders.
Hex Key Holder
fireballtool.com
Fireball offers the option of PB Swiss hex keys, and they are very high quality, but as mentioned above, the Wera Hex Plus keys are the game changer.
Those look interesting. I have the Astro Pneumatic 1045 Worn/Damaged Hex Bolt Extractor T-Handle set - I wonder how they compare?
andyvh1959
Well-known member
Changed out a 2" fitting in the bottom of a 30 gallon oil reservoir on a ag-sprayer, with the hydraulic tank full. I was at a customer that needed the replacement fitting. I had a tech get a shop vac, vac hose into the vent/filler on top of the tank but not in the oil, taped off to seal it. Made sure there were no other air sources into the tank. Turned on the shop vac, sides of the tank went "doink" when they got pushed in by outside air pressure. Disconnected the main suction hose, of course there was oil from that. Then had the tech remove the 2" fitting, put the new fitting in place. Could see the oil moving in the tank, but do NOT touch/disturb it. New fitting in place, attached the suction hose. Turned off the shop vac and removed the vac hose. Maybe got 1/2 a quart of oil on the shop floor.
bubinga
Well-known member
we used to live there.
richfinn
Well-known member
I've heard of guys doing the same thing with vacuum coolant system fillers on vehicles when changing coolant temp sensors etc.
quicker than mopping the bay up, never tried it myself
andyvh1959
Well-known member
Actually it was the 1st time I did it, and the shop techs at the customer were looking at me like, "yeah,....rrrriiiiight, if you say so" when I told them how to do it. It did look weird to look into a 2" port in the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir to see the oil moving around over the port after we took the hose and fitting off. Worked great though.
I must have one of those guys at my house. Every time I disassemble something, I always find I'm missing one or more fasteners!