Mechanic's wire gauge/size recommendation

[BigLeagueSmoes]

I'm about to do two brake jobs next weekend (05 tacoma and 94 miata) and as I was making sure I have all the tools and parts that I need I realized that I don't own any mechanics wire. I like to use mechanics wire to hang the caliper out of the way when i'm not working on it. I have always borrowed it from someone else or made do with zip ties or something less ideal than wire. I figured this would be a good time to add a spool to the shop. I've never payed attention to wire size/gauge/thickness when I use it and am not sure what a good size is to purchase. I'm going to be putting in a Rock Auto order and don't know what to buy! I know that most spools are sold be weight, so equal weights of different gauges results in longer spools of wire so that's something to consider when buying. What is a good gauge that is strong enough to confidently hold some weight (maybe 40 pounds?) as well as be pliable enough to twist tie it off without hating your life? 16ga vs 18ga vs any other size? Thanks in advance

 

[Terra Nova]

Got any metal clothes hangers kicking around the house? They work great for that.

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

Got any metal clothes hangers kicking around the house? They work great for that.

I might have a few

 

[msharley]

Roll of tie wire.

Concrete place has them by the case, for tying rod. Used to be $2/roll?

Hardware store....etc

Think it is 16ga? The heavier is 14ga?

Then there is the real heavy duty #9 wire... which is 9ga..??

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

Roll of tie wire.

Concrete place has them by the case, for tying rod. Used to be $2/roll?

Hardware store....etc

Think it is 16ga? The heavier is 14ga?

Then there is the real heavy duty #9 wire... which is 9ga..??

Thank you

 

[rancherbill]

..I like to use mechanics wire to hang the caliper out of the way when i'm not working on it.

I use a piece of dog chain. One end the S Hook is on permanently and the other the S Hook just gets placed as necessary. The chain hangs on the end of my tool box when not in use.

 

[lilredex]

Have also used coat hangers. But there are good ones and not so good ones. If you only have the latter, twist two together in your drill to make one good one. Wires that parts houses use to hang up tail pipes are also very good...will never let you down.

 

[mike93lx]

Bungee cord, zip ties, piece of romex, Mason line, rope, clothes hanger, etc. Tons of options just laying around already that will easily accomplish two brake jobs

Why buy something that won't really improve any aspect of the job?

 

[cvairwerks]

Still working off a roll of baling wire I bought 40 years ago....

 

[WWheeler]

I somehow lost almost all of my fabricated coathanger/wire caliper holders because every time I needed one I couldn't find the last one I used. I figure I must have been stupidly leaving most of them on the spring or whatever I hung them from. I've never had a problem cleaning up and putting tools back with anything else but with those I was cursed. Anywho, I bought a pair of BRIGHT yellow caliper S-hooks for $5-6 shipped off of Amazon or Ebay, don't remember which, and they've lasted me for at least 5 years now. At least in my case it was money well spent.

 

[mrjaw14]

Those calipers won't be too heavy. I wouldn't buy anything special just for doing two brake jobs if you can find a wire coat hangar, bungee cord, or even some small rope. Just have to securely hang the caliper from the spring in a way that doesn't stress the brake hose and you'll be fine.

 

[2oolhound]

I can't imagine not having a roll of tie wire around. I have at least 3 or 4 rolls around the shop at any given time. I even keep 2 rolls loaded in klein tie wire reels fastened on the wall for quick use.

Aside from general use there is the well established need for safety tying crucial fasteners on aircraft and racing machines. Safety wire pliers are used for this but not necessary. Here are instructions for safety tying

Another favorite use for me is in tying wire whippings used for holding wires in cable in place while splicing, strengthening tools, shielding tool parts from abration and even just for looks. Here is my thread on Tying Wire Whippings

I pick up rolls of tie wire and Klein tie wire reels when ever I see them at garage sales and swap meets etc. Any size from 12 to 19 gage are useful.

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

I can't imagine not having a roll of tie wire around. I have at least 3 or 4 rolls around the shop at any given time. I even keep 2 rolls loaded in klein tie wire reels fastened on the wall for quick use.

Aside from general use there is the well established need for safety tying crucial fasteners on aircraft and racing machines. Safety wire pliers are used for this but not necessary. Here are instructions for safety tying

Another favorite use for me is in tying wire whippings used for holding wires in cable in place while splicing, strengthening tools, shielding tool parts from abration and even just for looks. Here is my thread on Tying Wire Whippings

I pick up rolls of tie wire and Klein tie wire reels when ever I see them at garage sales and swap meets etc. Any size from 12 to 19 gage are useful.

I really don't have any tie wire, that's why I need to get some! So many uses!

 

[DerekV]

I got this stuff in a blue container from HF about 10 years ago

0.041 in. Stainless Steel Lock Wire, 1.00 lb. Coil

Amazing deals on this 0.041In Stainless Lock Wire at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Still have it, awesome stuff to have on hand. One of those HF gems if you ask me.

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

I got this stuff in a blue container from HF about 10 years ago

0.041 in. Stainless Steel Lock Wire, 1.00 lb. Coil

Amazing deals on this 0.041In Stainless Lock Wire at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Still have it, awesome stuff to have on hand. One of those HF gems if you ask me.

And to think I was just in there earlier today...

 

[matt_i]

Even something as small as .020" stainless lock wire is easy to twist and strong in tension. That's probably the most expensive offering of the great choices already mentioned.

I have also been known to use up clear/natural zip ties that don't hold up to anything outdoor related, its a bag from the past that I'm trying to use up.

 

[Vvmvbb]

S shaped shower curtain hooks are super handy for that btw.

 

[texasprd]

Scrap 16ga. primary wire has worked for me, when I can't find my hooks made from bottom-wire for chain link fence

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I use 12" rubber bungee cords with hooks one either end. Tie wire is too inconvenient for me.

 

[Wrench97]

I've always made a S shaped hook out of 1/8" or 3/16" welding rod when I needed one.
These Rafter hooks from HomeD work also> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...Rafter-Hanger-in-Black-50-lbs-18015/202305459

 

[2oolhound]

I just thought of another major use of wire I use - hanging parts of stuff I rebuild so I can spay paint them. I have a wide reaching magnolia tree where I hang stuff to paint in warm weather. I keep lengths of wire there always so it's quick to tie and paint parts. I also have a grid under an awning which had about 20 wires always hanging there for when I need to paint small parts.

Here is a fabrication use of wire where I added an overhang onto a headache rack for a pickup. I have a tiny shop so no room for a fabrication table. Instead I have trailer hitch extension slots built into the 20" deep work bench to support long projects.

Here you see the cab arms tacked on to the headache rack. Welding distorts so if you can't fix components down to a large fab table you need to come up with options.



^ I have square unistrut in the trailer hitch pockets and long unistrut supporting the cab arms I'm welding to the headache rack. Tie wire is added diagonally to pull the cab arms square after they were lightly tacked to the headache rack.


In this shot you can see that attaching the wire doesn't have to look pretty, it will tighten up and hold after you twist the wire. The wire takes a lot of force. The wire was doubled up and then brought back down to the start and twisted to the other end to form a kind of giant loop. A square can be seen in the far corner to indicate when the cab arms are pulled square.





Here you see a bolt inserted between the 2 double strands of wire. It is used to twist the 2 strands together to shrink their length thereby sucking the cab arm upward until it is square to the headache rack. Any rod, screw driver etc. will do this job.



It is square now.




Here you can see the diagonal wire used to pull the cab arm sideways to square it that way.



After the wire pulls everything square by twisting it, I tack hard tubing in place of the wire and then finish welding the cab arms to the headache rack. Adding rigid tubing allows me to handle the assembly, turn it over etc in a safer manor than the twisted wire would allow by itself. The twisted wire allows for very gradual controlled adjustments before tacking in place in multiple places.



Here is the finished project. It's just what the client wanted. It looks and is completely square from every angle.

 

[BigLeagueSmoes]

I just thought of another major use of wire I use - hanging parts of stuff I rebuild so I can spay paint them. I have a wide reaching magnolia tree where I hang stuff to paint in warm weather. I keep lengths of wire there always so it's quick to tie and paint parts. I also have a grid under an awning which had about 20 wires always hanging there for when I need to paint small parts.

Here is a fabrication use of wire where I added an overhang onto a headache rack for a pickup. I have a tiny shop so no room for a fabrication table. Instead I have trailer hitch extension slots built into the 20" deep work bench to support long projects.

Here you see the cab arms tacked on to the headache rack. Welding distorts so if you can't fix components down to a large fab table you need to come up with options.



^ I have square unistrut in the trailer hitch pockets and long unistrut supporting the cab arms I'm welding to the headache rack. Tie wire is added diagonally to pull the cab arms square after they were lightly tacked to the headache rack.


In this shot you can see that attaching the wire doesn't have to look pretty, it will tighten up and hold after you twist the wire. The wire takes a lot of force. The wire was doubled up and then brought back down to the start and twisted to the other end to form a kind of giant loop. A square can be seen in the far corner to indicate when the cab arms are pulled square.





Here you see a bolt inserted between the 2 double strands of wire. It is used to twist the 2 strands together to shrink their length thereby sucking the cab arm upward until it is square to the headache rack. Any rod, screw driver etc. will do this job.



It is square now.




Here you can see the diagonal wire used to pull the cab arm sideways to square it that way.



After the wire pulls everything square by twisting it, I tack hard tubing in place of the wire and then finish welding the cab arms to the headache rack. Adding rigid tubing allows me to handle the assembly, turn it over etc in a safer manor than the twisted wire would allow by itself. The twisted wire allows for very gradual controlled adjustments before tacking in place in multiple places.



Here is the finished project. It's just what the client wanted. It looks and is completely square from every angle.

That was a very well written, detailed, and illustrated write up. The project looks phenomenal! Thank you for sharing!

I do plan to use the wire I buy for more than just brake jobs, that’s just the first immediate use I’ll have for it. Hanging things for spray painting will be another. Maybe for making temporary fixes to hold something together. I have been getting into welding more and that bracing idea seems pretty genius. Thanks again