Spareparts
Well-known member
Worhing on the CJ-5 was like rolling a ball down a hill, never know when or where
it will STOP,
it will STOP,
Meet Vic, the 47 Willys CJ2A....
- Thread starter liliysdad
- Start date
Been slowly piddling with the Willys. I let the motor set with penetrating oil, and she is still locked up. The early 283 doesn’t have a crank bolt, so no way to break it over that way. Looks like the motor is just going to have to come out.
I had already decided if that was the case, I was just going to pull the tub so that I could get to everything easier. In preparation, I pulled the fenders, radiator, and grille. In doing so, I got to see how this old thing was put together.
Keep in mind, best evidence suggests this swap was done in the early 60s, and was tailored around hunting and fishing in the Alaskan outback.
The 283 appears to have been swapped using a 5/8 aluminum adapter to the factory t90 transmission. Letting the transmission dictate engine placement caused the distributor and firewall to have issues, and the firewall lost. The motor mounts are simple plate steel contraptions welded to the original perches. The front crossmember was notched, quite well, to clear the radiator. Overall, it’s not as bad as I’d hoped, but not as good as it could have been
In further prep for pulling the tub, I attacked the interior. I knew the Mustang buckets had to go, and I was curious as to what the floor under them looked like. Once I pulled the (immaculate) 67 Mustang buckets, I was immediately flabbergasted.
Vic, in his desire to build an Alaskan Overland rig before that was a thing, cut the floorboard out and installed a custom 30(ish) gallon fabricated fuel tank.
Now, I am at a crossroads. Common sense dictates I tear all this out, and put a fresh floor in it. My inner voice, however, tells me to build it back the way Vic intended it, but better. Once I get the tub pulled I will know more, but the present plan is to have the tank batted and see what it looks like, and go from there.
These things are always an adventure.
I had already decided if that was the case, I was just going to pull the tub so that I could get to everything easier. In preparation, I pulled the fenders, radiator, and grille. In doing so, I got to see how this old thing was put together.
Keep in mind, best evidence suggests this swap was done in the early 60s, and was tailored around hunting and fishing in the Alaskan outback.
The 283 appears to have been swapped using a 5/8 aluminum adapter to the factory t90 transmission. Letting the transmission dictate engine placement caused the distributor and firewall to have issues, and the firewall lost. The motor mounts are simple plate steel contraptions welded to the original perches. The front crossmember was notched, quite well, to clear the radiator. Overall, it’s not as bad as I’d hoped, but not as good as it could have been
In further prep for pulling the tub, I attacked the interior. I knew the Mustang buckets had to go, and I was curious as to what the floor under them looked like. Once I pulled the (immaculate) 67 Mustang buckets, I was immediately flabbergasted.
Vic, in his desire to build an Alaskan Overland rig before that was a thing, cut the floorboard out and installed a custom 30(ish) gallon fabricated fuel tank.
Now, I am at a crossroads. Common sense dictates I tear all this out, and put a fresh floor in it. My inner voice, however, tells me to build it back the way Vic intended it, but better. Once I get the tub pulled I will know more, but the present plan is to have the tank batted and see what it looks like, and go from there.
These things are always an adventure.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I bet Vic would have wanted it to be cool, but not necessarily his way.Been slowly piddling with the Willys. I let the motor set with penetrating oil, and she is still locked up. The early 283 doesn’t have a crank bolt, so no way to break it over that way. Looks like the motor is just going to have to come out.
I had already decided if that was the case, I was just going to pull the tub so that I could get to everything easier. In preparation, I pulled the fenders, radiator, and grille. In doing so, I got to see how this old thing was put together.
Keep in mind, best evidence suggests this swap was done in the early 60s, and was tailored around hunting and fishing in the Alaskan outback.
The 283 appears to have been swapped using a 5/8 aluminum adapter to the factory t90 transmission. Letting the transmission dictate engine placement caused the distributor and firewall to have issues, and the firewall lost. The motor mounts are simple plate steel contraptions welded to the original perches. The front crossmember was notched, quite well, to clear the radiator. Overall, it’s not as bad as I’d hoped, but not as good as it could have been
In further prep for pulling the tub, I attacked the interior. I knew the Mustang buckets had to go, and I was curious as to what the floor under them looked like. Once I pulled the (immaculate) 67 Mustang buckets, I was immediately flabbergasted.
Vic, in his desire to build an Alaskan Overland rig before that was a thing, cut the floorboard out and installed a custom 30(ish) gallon fabricated fuel tank.
Now, I am at a crossroads. Common sense dictates I tear all this out, and put a fresh floor in it. My inner voice, however, tells me to build it back the way Vic intended it, but better. Once I get the tub pulled I will know more, but the present plan is to have the tank batted and see what it looks like, and go from there.
These things are always an adventure.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
That's a helluva gas tank. Pretty cool.
I thought the same!
I have a suspicion that this was as much a rolling gas can as anything. From what little I’ve been able to uncover, the owner would haul this Jeep, with a boat hooked to it, into the bush for extended times.
There is a petcock installed on the bottom of the tank that I imagine was used to fill gas cans for lanterns, heaters, and an outboard motor.
That's what they do in the Philipines with the Jeepneys that were made from the left behind Jeeps from WW2. They put in Nissan or Mitsubishi diesels. And they extend the frames. They can probably build them from scratch at this point as there are so many replacement parts available.
For those who don't know, the Jeepneys provide transportation in the Phillipines for people from rural areas to get into the cities and to get around in general. The tickets are cheap. The operators decorate them.
I'd retain the V8, but if it didn't have an engine I'd put a Toyota 22R 4 banger in it if the diesel didn't work out.
That original green color would be nicer than the rust red. But ultimate color in my book would be like an ocean blue with white rims like Billy Jack drove in the 1960s classic films.
kerrynzl
Well-known member
Mitsubishi which I mentioned manufactured Jeeps under license and installed their own gasoline and diesel engines.
This makes a 4D56-T and 5 speed an easy swap into a flat fender
Mahindra in India also did the same [even now] under license, but I am not sure what "donkey" is under the hood
here is a Mitsubishi Jeep [if you look closely there is 3 diamonds on the grille]
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
I believe Willy's/Jeep stateside made a few diesels as well... rare.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Mahindra got in trouble for making them without authorization and I believe had to stop
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
They just changed up the grill. My friend takes old Willy's bodies and puts them on Mahindra chassis to get them fully registered as a Willys.
csp
Well-known member
Yep, they used Perkins 4cyl diesel engines.
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 921
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
They were turbo'd? That surprises me for the 40'sI've never seen one original, I think the perkins engines were pretty rare in jeeps, but man a small turbo diesel is a perfect engine for an old jeep. I love the turbo diesel I put in my 46, they should have come that way from the factoryGreat torque and fuel milage.
Still plugging away. Temps are back in the mid to high 90s for a few days, so between that and work, I’ve just been hitting it here and there.
No more real surprises, other than the fact there are no more surprises. I keep finding a little rust here and there, but far less than should be. Overall, I’m still pretty stoked.
I’d like to have the tub ready to pull by next weekend.
No more real surprises, other than the fact there are no more surprises. I keep finding a little rust here and there, but far less than should be. Overall, I’m still pretty stoked.
I’d like to have the tub ready to pull by next weekend.
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 921
not then, no. But we can do that now
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Saw you post on the 2a forum re ditching the Ross box... good call. There's a ton of vids that pretty much cover it.
Our 3b came with the conversion done, rag joint at the box, single shaft to a Toro steering joint then to the column shaft.
It had a funky Cadillac tilt/telescope column (popular old mod) that we ditched for a more traditional fixed column from Speedway.
The puzzle is desired steering wheel position... both in terms of height and angle, will you use existing hole in floor, what do you have to thread the shaft through from steering joint to box... all that will either be ago or no go with the steering joint angle (too sharp).
Ours has tight clearance at the motor mount... when they did the conversion they torched part of it off as well as torching a hole through the rad cross member to get to the box. It used to be snug against the exhaust, but new motor with different manifolds and exhaust alleviated that.
I feel like we are at the max on the joint angle... it works, but it would be nice if was more relaxed. Only other option would be another joint and a heim.
The Cliffs notes, there's not much room for the driver, so not much room to place the wheel... having it tilted way back towards the driver would help the joint angle, but not work... unless maybe you moved the seat back... nuther can o worms.
Our 3b came with the conversion done, rag joint at the box, single shaft to a Toro steering joint then to the column shaft.
It had a funky Cadillac tilt/telescope column (popular old mod) that we ditched for a more traditional fixed column from Speedway.
The puzzle is desired steering wheel position... both in terms of height and angle, will you use existing hole in floor, what do you have to thread the shaft through from steering joint to box... all that will either be ago or no go with the steering joint angle (too sharp).
Ours has tight clearance at the motor mount... when they did the conversion they torched part of it off as well as torching a hole through the rad cross member to get to the box. It used to be snug against the exhaust, but new motor with different manifolds and exhaust alleviated that.
I feel like we are at the max on the joint angle... it works, but it would be nice if was more relaxed. Only other option would be another joint and a heim.
The Cliffs notes, there's not much room for the driver, so not much room to place the wheel... having it tilted way back towards the driver would help the joint angle, but not work... unless maybe you moved the seat back... nuther can o worms.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Yea ours is moved over... V8 as well.
Getting the box as low as you can stomach will help.
Getting the box as low as you can stomach will help.
Just my humble opinion, but when we were doing a lot of restos we would choose a point in time and do everything with "if we were there, then" to lock in the hardware. On top of that, owner done mods would be respected in the extreme (in your case gas tank and seats, SBC of that vintage, etc. I really like the idea of going to small port heads, appropriate intake and carb, soft roller cam, etc. to build a torque monster. The only 2A I ever had anything to do with was our (AMC/Jeep) shop foreman's father's complete with factory PTO that was used on their farm since new. Needless to say it went together with zero mods and incredible care. Parked beside his Tornado powered Wagoneer until his untimely passing made for quite the interesting Jeep yard.
This is a perfect way to describe the way I feel. Thank you.
My idea with this Jeep, and pretty much every other project I have had, is to keep things at least outwardly period correct, and with the intent of the original builder. There are things I would and will do differently, and there are things I would the same, but better. I could ditch the 283 and drop an LS in it, or even a boring 350, and do everything better, but that 283 is part of the Jeep's soul. I could strap a brand new Badlands electric winch on a Warn bumper bolted to the front, but instead I will source a Belleview or Ramsey electric, or perhaps even a Koenig or Ramsey PTO because that's what belongs there. A Dana 30 front and 44 rear would be better in every way, but a set of Brennan's Trackick discs on the OEM axles will keep things the way I want them.
There are a lot of things you can do under the skin to make it stop, go, and drive better while keeping the spirit alive. The "restomod" movement does absolutely nothing for me, and I have no desire to add things like EFI and a modern interior.
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Got a little more done, but the heat is back so I won’t be getting the tub pulled this weekend.
I got the tank pulled, expecting the worst to be hidden underneath. Once I wrestled it out, spilling a gallon of absolutely rotten fuel in the process, I was pleasantly surprised. The work done to get the tank in there is crude, but not butchery. The tank seems to be in very good shape, I plan on reusing it after cleaning up the metal work.
I got the tank pulled, expecting the worst to be hidden underneath. Once I wrestled it out, spilling a gallon of absolutely rotten fuel in the process, I was pleasantly surprised. The work done to get the tank in there is crude, but not butchery. The tank seems to be in very good shape, I plan on reusing it after cleaning up the metal work.
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 921
wow, that tank came out pretty cleanly! When I removed the tool box in my 46 (under the passenger seat) it was spot welded to the tub and had a good bit of rust under it. No rust under the tank on the driver side though.
Progress on the 2A has been slow, and I’ve been wrestling with drivetrain choice. As much as I think the 283 is cool, it just doesn’t feel “right” for what I am after. The fact that it’s locked up solid doesn’t help.
A couple of weeks ago, a FB post in a flat fender group popped up, advertising a rusty and rotten 46 column shift 2a locally. After some back and forth, i decided there was enough value there to grab it. I hooked the trailer up and away I went.
This thing is rotten, more of a vaguely Jeep shaped colander than a Jeep. There are some good bits worth saving on the tub, but the frame is in remarkably good shape. It even has a set of original, matching 16” wheels.
What I was after, however, was this….a fresh from the machine shop, fully rebuilt L134 Go Devil. Bored, crank turned, rods sized, head decked fresh.
Now it’s starting to feel right.
Also included in the deal are a half dozen tubs of new and hard to find parts, and a complete column shift transmission and transfer case setup, including the column and all the linkage. That stuff will get sold to a restorer to find some of this mess.
The current plan is to finish stripping the red Jeep, and put it to bed for a while. I’ll pull and scrap the yellow tub, and build that chassis with the new L134, the T90 and Spicer 18 from red Jeep, and a set of 5:1 X98 low gears. Once that’s together, the red tub will get some attention…but not much…and get places on that chassis.
A PTO or Belleview winch, some new rubber on the 16” wheels….and roll.
Simple…while keeping the spirit of Vic alive.
A couple of weeks ago, a FB post in a flat fender group popped up, advertising a rusty and rotten 46 column shift 2a locally. After some back and forth, i decided there was enough value there to grab it. I hooked the trailer up and away I went.
This thing is rotten, more of a vaguely Jeep shaped colander than a Jeep. There are some good bits worth saving on the tub, but the frame is in remarkably good shape. It even has a set of original, matching 16” wheels.
What I was after, however, was this….a fresh from the machine shop, fully rebuilt L134 Go Devil. Bored, crank turned, rods sized, head decked fresh.
Now it’s starting to feel right.
Also included in the deal are a half dozen tubs of new and hard to find parts, and a complete column shift transmission and transfer case setup, including the column and all the linkage. That stuff will get sold to a restorer to find some of this mess.
The current plan is to finish stripping the red Jeep, and put it to bed for a while. I’ll pull and scrap the yellow tub, and build that chassis with the new L134, the T90 and Spicer 18 from red Jeep, and a set of 5:1 X98 low gears. Once that’s together, the red tub will get some attention…but not much…and get places on that chassis.
A PTO or Belleview winch, some new rubber on the 16” wheels….and roll.
Simple…while keeping the spirit of Vic alive.
d42jeep
Well-known member
You might like to see the ‘46 my neighbor restored. It was his wife’s grandfather’s and needed everything in the drivetrain replaced due to being located on the perpetually flooding Russian River. Here he is taking my daughter and grandkids for a ride. It’s now 12v but otherwise pretty stock.
-Don
-Don
Attachments
csp
Well-known member
Meh, a 350 is much easier to find and has that same 3.48" stroke.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
i like that you are still keeping the soul, but making it your own!
Haven't really had much time to mess with the flatfender. Work, holidays, weather, and hunting season sort of got in the way.
My Ford is going in the shop in a couple of weeks for some hail repair, so the CJ5 is going to be the daily for a couple of weeks. I had some things I have putting off that I really needed to do, chief among those was a steering shaft. I put a new Omix-Ada shaft in a while back when I replaced the steering box...and the piece of junk was worse than the worn out OEM unit. I really didn't want to drop $250 on a Borgeson unit, but it had gotten borderline dangerous.
I finally bit the bullet and let me tell you...that is the single best $250 Jeep purchase I have ever made. What a difference!! That shaft removed almost all of my steering play, and the steering effort is insanely reduced. It feels almost like power steering.
My Ford is going in the shop in a couple of weeks for some hail repair, so the CJ5 is going to be the daily for a couple of weeks. I had some things I have putting off that I really needed to do, chief among those was a steering shaft. I put a new Omix-Ada shaft in a while back when I replaced the steering box...and the piece of junk was worse than the worn out OEM unit. I really didn't want to drop $250 on a Borgeson unit, but it had gotten borderline dangerous.
I finally bit the bullet and let me tell you...that is the single best $250 Jeep purchase I have ever made. What a difference!! That shaft removed almost all of my steering play, and the steering effort is insanely reduced. It feels almost like power steering.
Finally got around to a little Willys work. I managed to sell all the column shift parts from the yellow Jeep to a nice guy in Atlanta who's restoring an early column shift 45 Civilian CJ. Decided to tear the Go Devil down and assess. Machine work looks fantastic, but the assembly lube has turned to something between jello and concrete.
Pulled the pistons and crank, and everything looks perfect. Crank is turned .040 under, rods .050. That sounds like a lot but my original parts books show up to .070 for both. The bearings were all Clevites, but they were stained from sitting for so long, and I just didn't care for the way they looked. I could find Chinese bearing for less than $75, but I ended up sourcing King Bearings in the right sizes for right at twice that. I just couldn't see putting Chinese Omix or Crown bearings in. Once those come in, I will reinstall, and start buttoning the motor up.
The cat is a new addition. I rescued hum from the back yard back before Christmas. he lives in the shop....Figured Willy was a fitting name. He is not helpful.
Pulled the pistons and crank, and everything looks perfect. Crank is turned .040 under, rods .050. That sounds like a lot but my original parts books show up to .070 for both. The bearings were all Clevites, but they were stained from sitting for so long, and I just didn't care for the way they looked. I could find Chinese bearing for less than $75, but I ended up sourcing King Bearings in the right sizes for right at twice that. I just couldn't see putting Chinese Omix or Crown bearings in. Once those come in, I will reinstall, and start buttoning the motor up.
The cat is a new addition. I rescued hum from the back yard back before Christmas. he lives in the shop....Figured Willy was a fitting name. He is not helpful.
Little bits of progress....
Got the crank cleaned up, and all the oil passages cleared of old, crusty engine assembly lube. Got everything nice and clean, and threw the new mains and crank in with some Lubriplate 105. I went ahead and relubed the cam with Permatex red sticky stuff. Torqued everything down, and she's smooth as butter. Rod bearings should be in tomorrow, and I have a long holiday weekend. Maybe I will get some of the tin on, and get close to getting it buttoned up.
Got the crank cleaned up, and all the oil passages cleared of old, crusty engine assembly lube. Got everything nice and clean, and threw the new mains and crank in with some Lubriplate 105. I went ahead and relubed the cam with Permatex red sticky stuff. Torqued everything down, and she's smooth as butter. Rod bearings should be in tomorrow, and I have a long holiday weekend. Maybe I will get some of the tin on, and get close to getting it buttoned up.
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Rod bearings showed up today, and due to incoming weather, I just found out I have at least two more days off. It will probably be too cold to work in the shop, but we will see. Someone has to keep the cat company.
I ended up ordering some ARP 12pt rod nuts...because, well, why not? They weren't any more expensive than OEM style. Got the new rod bearings rolled in and lubed up. I finally had a chance to use an OLD K-D pliers style ring compressor that I had bought at an estate sale years ago. Worked slicker than snot once I figured out which side was up and which was down. I decided to check ring gap "just in case." Every single thing points to someone spending a LOT of time and money building this motor years ago. Rings all appear to have been filed, and ring gap was dead nuts in the center of spec. Once all the pistons were in, everything got torqued. I threw the pan and head on for now, jus to seal it up. Hopefully I will have time to hang the oil pump pickup, install the front cover, and seal up the bottom end in the next couple of days.
I ended up ordering some ARP 12pt rod nuts...because, well, why not? They weren't any more expensive than OEM style. Got the new rod bearings rolled in and lubed up. I finally had a chance to use an OLD K-D pliers style ring compressor that I had bought at an estate sale years ago. Worked slicker than snot once I figured out which side was up and which was down. I decided to check ring gap "just in case." Every single thing points to someone spending a LOT of time and money building this motor years ago. Rings all appear to have been filed, and ring gap was dead nuts in the center of spec. Once all the pistons were in, everything got torqued. I threw the pan and head on for now, jus to seal it up. Hopefully I will have time to hang the oil pump pickup, install the front cover, and seal up the bottom end in the next couple of days.
Well, spoke too soon. I went out to the shop with the intention of buttoning the bottom end up. I dug out the box with the engine parts, and I located the oil pump pickup, but the pickup tube/support is nowhere to be found. Apparently the little buggers are kind of hard to find, and not cheap. I think I have found a used one from a member on a CJ board, but that will probably slow me down a week or more.
I guess, in reality, there is nothing preventing me from running the valves and installing the head, and saving the bottom end for last. It just seems...backward..lol.
I guess, in reality, there is nothing preventing me from running the valves and installing the head, and saving the bottom end for last. It just seems...backward..lol.
It's 19 degrees outside, with a wind chill of -6. The shop is a balmy 52 degrees, so I figured I could get a little more done.
I noticed a while back that the cam gear had been installed without putting the motor plate on, which goes behind the cam gear. I assume this was likely done when the engine was assembled at the machine shop many years ago. While I was searching for that stupid oil strainer support, I came across the motor plate, so I decided to tackle that one. The post war L134s are gear driven, and they use a fiber cam gear which is notorious for breaking when pulled. I managed to get it off the cam gear off without much issue, without a puller.
Once I got the motor plate on and sealed, it was time to reinstall the cam gear It went on without too much hassle....but I got bit by the helical gear. Of course I was a tooth off, and I had to pull the cam gear again. This time, however, there was no access to the rear of the gear with the plate on, so it was time for a puller. From everything I read, three jaws are a near guaranteed to shred the teeth off the gear. My original manuals show a special two jaw with very thin teeth that go in the holes in the gear. I don't have one of those, and my normal two jaw wouldn't clear...so I had to get inventive. Luckily it didn't give me too many fits, and after a couple of tries, the timing marks landed where they are supposed to.
Little by little...
I noticed a while back that the cam gear had been installed without putting the motor plate on, which goes behind the cam gear. I assume this was likely done when the engine was assembled at the machine shop many years ago. While I was searching for that stupid oil strainer support, I came across the motor plate, so I decided to tackle that one. The post war L134s are gear driven, and they use a fiber cam gear which is notorious for breaking when pulled. I managed to get it off the cam gear off without much issue, without a puller.
Once I got the motor plate on and sealed, it was time to reinstall the cam gear It went on without too much hassle....but I got bit by the helical gear. Of course I was a tooth off, and I had to pull the cam gear again. This time, however, there was no access to the rear of the gear with the plate on, so it was time for a puller. From everything I read, three jaws are a near guaranteed to shred the teeth off the gear. My original manuals show a special two jaw with very thin teeth that go in the holes in the gear. I don't have one of those, and my normal two jaw wouldn't clear...so I had to get inventive. Luckily it didn't give me too many fits, and after a couple of tries, the timing marks landed where they are supposed to.
Little by little...
Voi
Well-known member
Another thread sent me down the rabbit hole of flat fenders & I found this post.
Does your friend do this to make them street legal? Or some other reason?
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Very inventive on the gear puller! I’m going to put that in my memory bank.It's 19 degrees outside, with a wind chill of -6. The shop is a balmy 52 degrees, so I figured I could get a little more done.
I noticed a while back that the cam gear had been installed without putting the motor plate on, which goes behind the cam gear. I assume this was likely done when the engine was assembled at the machine shop many years ago. While I was searching for that stupid oil strainer support, I came across the motor plate, so I decided to tackle that one. The post war L134s are gear driven, and they use a fiber cam gear which is notorious for breaking when pulled. I managed to get it off the cam gear off without much issue, without a puller.
Once I got the motor plate on and sealed, it was time to reinstall the cam gear It went on without too much hassle....but I got bit by the helical gear. Of course I was a tooth off, and I had to pull the cam gear again. This time, however, there was no access to the rear of the gear with the plate on, so it was time for a puller. From everything I read, three jaws are a near guaranteed to shred the teeth off the gear. My original manuals show a special two jaw with very thin teeth that go in the holes in the gear. I don't have one of those, and my normal two jaw wouldn't clear...so I had to get inventive. Luckily it didn't give me too many fits, and after a couple of tries, the timing marks landed where they are supposed to.
Little by little...
Man…Oklahoma weather will make someone a damned fine ex wife one day. Upper 80s last week, tornadoes, floods, snow, and ice over the weekend, back to spring again today. Hopefully it’s here to stay, but I wouldn’t put money on it.
Got a chance to blow the dust out of the shop, and get a minor amount of spring cleaning done. Haven’t had a chance to touch the Willys for a bit, but I do have a line on two more Willys L134s to go look at tomorrow. Both are still bolted to Hobart welders, and likely locked up, but if they are cheap enough I’m sure I’ll drag them home just for the parts.
The CJ5 has had a long winter, and the introduction of a cat in the shop has not been kind to it. Lots of little claw scratches all over it, but I guess that’s the price you pay for feline company. I may have to shuffle the CJ5 into the garage for the summer.
Hoping to get the CJ2a frame in the shop this week and get started on that…
Got a chance to blow the dust out of the shop, and get a minor amount of spring cleaning done. Haven’t had a chance to touch the Willys for a bit, but I do have a line on two more Willys L134s to go look at tomorrow. Both are still bolted to Hobart welders, and likely locked up, but if they are cheap enough I’m sure I’ll drag them home just for the parts.
The CJ5 has had a long winter, and the introduction of a cat in the shop has not been kind to it. Lots of little claw scratches all over it, but I guess that’s the price you pay for feline company. I may have to shuffle the CJ5 into the garage for the summer.
Hoping to get the CJ2a frame in the shop this week and get started on that…
Got a chance to go check out the two Hobart engine drive welders. Both have Willys L134s, both complete. The guy bought them to scrap, posted an ad trying to sell the tin as decor. I took a shot and asked if they were Willys driven, and both were.
Picked them both up for $150, worth that in accessories and tin alone. Interestingly enough, neither are Industrial motors, and they appear to very late production.
Because I need two more Willys L134s….
Picked them both up for $150, worth that in accessories and tin alone. Interestingly enough, neither are Industrial motors, and they appear to very late production.
Because I need two more Willys L134s….
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
How convenient!