Metal ceiling direction

[jhelle67rt]

Working towards getting the truss and roof installed on my 40x50x16 garage. Question came up about metal ceiling installation. I need some opinions. Building is 40’ wide with double garage doors on the 40’ end.

Is there any logic to which direction we run the metal ceiling? My instinct says run it with the lines running front to back. Contractor thinks side to side but I don’t think he particularly cares. The panel lengths are 3’x10’3”

Thoughts?

 

[The Cobbler]

I would run them perpendicular to your trusses so you don;t have to do any strapping or anything , which means run the length of the building

 

[whateg01]

I would run them perpendicular to your trusses so you don;t have to do any strapping or anything , which means run the length of the building

Depends on the spacing of the trusses. I hate when a ceiling starts to sag.

 

[BobnCO]

Perpendicular to trusses is very traditional and the best option. Parallel is heresy!
Bob in CO
(Claiming "master Builder" title

 

[jhelle67rt]

It’s a hip roof so the trusses go in both directions depending on where in the building you are. Trusses are 24” on center but he shows plans to run “perlins” front to back. I can upload a truss plan tomorrow if it helps with the visual.

 

[The Cobbler]

I prefer the ribs to run along the length

 

[jhelle67rt]

 

[jhelle67rt]

His plan was install Perlins across the building shown as the blue lines and then install panels shown as red.

 

[kwb]

Length of building, a bit of blocking in the hip ends. This would be lowest cost material wise.

I can't say if the builders approach might be a total lower cost due to labor.

I would also prefer that the lid be attached to the structure(trusses) via screws than to a grid attached with nails to resist gravity.

 

[mitusa]

Are you using R-panel for the ceiling???
What are the plans and why the short sheets (10 ft long)?
How far apart are the rafters?

I've used R-panel on rafters 8 feet apart with about 6" of cellulose cover and haven't had any sagging and it's been up there for over 20 years.

 

[jhelle67rt]

Are you using R-panel for the ceiling???
What are the plans and why the short sheets (10 ft long)?
How far apart are the rafters?

I've used R-panel on rafters 8 feet apart with about 6" of cellulose cover and haven't had any sagging and it's been up there for over 20 years.

Rafters are 24” apart
Mostly around here we see Ultra rib panels. It is spec’d for 26ga Ultra rib with 12” of cellulose to achieve R30. Sheet length seemed to be what most people go with for ease of handling and installing at 16’ high. This is what the metal supplier suggested as they routinely do this.

 

[jhelle67rt]

Length of building, a bit of blocking in the hip ends. This would be lowest cost material wise.

I can't say if the builders approach might be a total lower cost due to labor.

I would also prefer that the lid be attached to the structure(trusses) via screws than to a grid attached with nails to resist gravity.

That’s what I’m thinking. Going around and adding all the additional wood across the entire building seems like a waste. I’ll look at the plans more but I feel like the added blocking is easier and more cost effective then run the panels with the length of the building

 

[mitusa]

Rafters are 24” apart
Mostly around here we see Ultra rib panels. It is spec’d for 26ga Ultra rib with 12” of cellulose to achieve R30. Sheet length seemed to be what most people go with for ease of handling and installing at 16’ high. This is what the metal supplier suggested as they routinely do this.

Maybe it's just me.....but I would run the ribs along the long side of the building. Save the extra material and time...
The building I built was 32' long and I ordered the metal that long. It took three of us but we got it put up without any lifts.

 

[jhelle67rt]

Maybe it's just me.....but I would run the ribs along the long side of the building. Save the extra material and time...
The building I built was 32' long and I ordered the metal that long. It took three of us but we got it put up without any lifts.

You ordered 3’ wide panels 32’ long?!?!

 

[Bert_]

32' is a long panel to hang on a ceiling. Definitely would need enough help. 20' is extremely common. I would doubt any contractor who wants to hang 10 ft sheets. That's really weird.

 

[Bert_]

My vote would be (3) 16's or (2) 26' sheets the length of the building.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

On a friend's smaller shop, the decision was made based on one of the dimensions allowing for metal pieces that went all the way across, avoiding intersections of 4 different pieces of metal. On your shop, I would think the cost of materials would be the same either way - but which way allows for the fewest pieces of metal and 4-way joints to deal with?

 

[NUTTSGT]

Length of building, a bit of blocking in the hip ends. This would be lowest cost material wise.

I can't say if the builders approach might be a total lower cost due to labor.

I would also prefer that the lid be attached to the structure(trusses) via screws than to a grid attached with nails to resist gravity.

That's what I would do, run the length of the building and blocking in the hip section.

Have them put the panels up so the seams/overlaps aren't readily seen from the usual way of entering the garage.

 

[mitusa]

You ordered 3’ wide panels 32’ long?!?!

yep.....ordered them that way. I did the ceiling first...had a friend on each end and would let them get them where they wanted and then push up on the middle to fill the distance.
Of course, it was only an eight foot ceiling and that made it considerably easier. I did the side walls the same way.

 

[jhelle67rt]

Wow-that’s a pretty large panel. I’m not sure I would have tried it on an 8’ ceiling and I can promise you I’m not doing it on a 16’ ceiling.
I do think stretching out the panel lengths makes sense as 10’ panels seem short