Metal roofing for ceilings???

[Notgrownup]

I know it's been done but is it a good or bad idea....I was going to use 7/16" OSB but I remember somebody using 5V roofing or corrugated roofing inside and it looked pretty darn good.
I am going to insulate the ceiling Its in a 24x24 3/12 roof pitch I will have attic stairs for light storage up there but nothing heavy doody...Ideas, pros, cons... All input appreciate...

 

[TractorJeff]

Menards up here sell a lighter weight Durapanel for interior finishing. I've been in buildings that have it and looks fine to me.

 

[glider]

I think the metal looks good. Don't hold the dust like osb. Instant gratification, no painting. The way I'm going.

 

[Highbeam]

I did it. I love it. One of the best shop build decisions I made. 1800 overhead screws were fun. I also used a sheetrock lift to put the panels up and insulated above to R-50 with cellulose.

 

[Mr onetwo]

The interior material is called liner panel.It works much better than sheetrock or OSB.No painting.Makes the interior much brighter and cleaner.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Menards up here sell a lighter weight Durapanel for interior finishing. I've been in buildings that have it and looks fine to me.

I think the metal looks good. Don't hold the dust like osb. Instant gratification, no painting. The way I'm going.

I did it. I love it. One of the best shop build decisions I made. 1800 overhead screws were fun. I also used a sheetrock lift to put the panels up and insulated above to R-50 with cellulose.

The interior material is called liner panel.It works much better than sheetrock or OSB.No painting.Makes the interior much brighter and cleaner.

2X 3X 4X 5X

I used the mid-range Pro-Rib on the ceiling of our attached garage five years ago. Looks nice, but it was heavy. In the 1000sf race shop I used the thinner Dura-Panels (both from Menards). Worked just fine.

One of the best decisions I made regarding my shop. Can't recommend it strongly enough. The carpenters that put it up thought it was really, really slick. If I built a new house and didn't need the fire shield of sheet rock, I would go with Dura-Panels.

My carpenters put screws in every four (4) feet! Not every two (2) feet. Almost half the screws used. Have R-40 of blown in fiberglass over half and R-30 batt in the other half.

I cannot think of any good reason to go with either of the two heavier panels than Dura-Panels. Ceiling lights are wired right through holes in fixtures and the Dura-Panels with a plastic grommet.

 

[TonyG]

We did our 2500' garage ceiling with white corugated metal for the neat, clean reflective look. That was six years ago, I wouldn't change a thing.

 

[Nor'Easter]

Metal looks excellent on the interior. Use white and you'll increase the light reflection.

 

[rburke65]

Screw it don....or up......and your done. I pre drilled all my holes on the ground....24" o/c.....easy.

 

[glider]

Your biggest decision should be screw it on the flats or the humps? I only screwed every four foot.

 

[like2wheel]

Your biggest decision should be screw it on the flats or the humps? I only screwed every four foot.

Why would you consider screwing it on the humps?
I understand the debate on a roof, but I don't see a reason why to do it on a ceiling.

 

[James-W]

Why would you consider screwing it on the humps?
I understand the debate on a roof, but I don't see a reason why to do it on a ceiling.

That was my thinking as well.

 

[glider]

Why would you consider screwing it on the humps?
I understand the debate on a roof, but I don't see a reason why to do it on a ceiling.

It is old school and my barn metal is secured on the ribs.

 

[G-ManBart]

I used the Durapanel from Menards on my ceiling, and love it! I did the job by myself, and it was probably much easier than trying to do OSB, then paint, or drywall, etc.

This pic wasn't taken for showing the ceiling, but you get the idea. If you go to my shop thread in my signature there are a lot more pics.

 

[Notgrownup]

Biggest problem I have is finding the right stuff around here... no Menards here...I will call a dealer of aluminum products Monday

 

[gnxtc2]

Metal panel liner all the way.....no painting, easy to clean,maintenance free

Did my ceiling first.

Then my walls

Bought from these guys: They have plants all over the country.

http://www.bestbuymetals.com/tuff-rib-metal-roofing-panel.html

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Radix2]

Looking good.
What kind of grommet and wiring did you guys use going through the metal for lights?

 

[glider]

I used T5HO lights. Wiring in metal conduit, no grommets.

 

[Notgrownup]

Looks like Menards has it for about $15 a sheet in 12'....that's pretty good...I will start looking

 

[gnxtc2]

Looking good.
What kind of grommet and wiring did you guys use going through the metal for lights?

I did surface mounted conduit.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[ncboat]

I am seriously looking at this but haven't come up with a good way to cut in outlets. I want to mount outlet boxes for my lights and run the wiring in the attic. I would prefer flush mounted but could go with surface mount but don't know what electrical inspector would want where it comes through the metal from the attic. Has anyone done it either of these ways. Gman that is gorgeous and all the others inspiring.

 

[DpSyChO]

I went with OSB simply because personally I liked the "textured look". Metal would have been a lot quicker and I believe cheaper. My time spent priming, caulking edges when I put pcs up, then final coat of paint over entire shop (30x44').....Yeah, would have been a lot easier to do metal but I do like my final result.

 

[Marctrees]

Look up suppliers of "Metal building" in your area.

Not "Aluminum", all these panels are Steel, although often called "Aluminized" or
"Galvalume"

Steel panels will give you a super bright and dust repelling ceiling.

I think the BEST Shop ceiling finish.

And then, blow in insulation above after ceiling is sheathed.

SO easy.

And the steel will give you your Vapor Barrier if you are in a colder climate area.

And, also just fine in a hot climate.

Edit - now I look and see NC, will be good in any geo area.

Cool thing about using metal panel is - You can order them cut to length, and cause you can overlap them as much or little as you want to fit,(Well, infinitely lengthwise anyway) lots of otherwise cutting is eliminated.

Don't have to be concerned about limiting overlap compared to using on outside of building where you do.

And ABSOLUTELY get the lightest gauge you can find.

I encourage you to do the metal lightest gauge ceiling before any other type of finish.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

I am seriously looking at this but haven't come up with a good way to cut in outlets. I want to mount outlet boxes for my lights and run the wiring in the attic. I would prefer flush mounted but could go with surface mount but don't know what electrical inspector would want where it comes through the metal from the attic. Has anyone done it either of these ways. Gman that is gorgeous and all the others inspiring.

NC - Surface mount steel boxes on the flats, between ribs , secure w short sheet metal screws.

Punch slightly oversized hole in metal panel to allow enough clearance for Romex connector or whatever you are doing.

Flush mounted pain in *** and totally unnecessary.

Should be totally normal and acceptable for Inspector, I was an EC for years, did that many times in different jurisdictions. Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Easiest overall method assuming ceiling still open - Steel not yet up - Run your romex, decide approx where you want your outlets, leave GENEROUS long tails hang in approx location, then use like a Greenlee like 1" knockout punch in the metal before you screw it to ceiling, hanging your PLENTY LONG romex tails already in place feed through holes you make as you hang your panels.

Now you have your ceiling covered w the steel sheets, w tails hanging down through holes sized to easily allow your cable connectors to pass through.

Then come back put on romex connectors like 6" below the steel, secure those to box, push excess wire into ceiling, put box to ceiling and secure box.

Done.

No flying metal chips into your your eyes drilling after installed... and then what? fishing wire later??

When terminating wiring, punch a hole w an Awl to make clearance for your Ground screw, or use Ground Clips.

Done all the time like that. Marc

 

[Notgrownup]

I am seriously looking at this but haven't come up with a good way to cut in outlets. I want to mount outlet boxes for my lights and run the wiring in the attic. I would prefer flush mounted but could go with surface mount but don't know what electrical inspector would want where it comes through the metal from the attic. Has anyone done it either of these ways. Gman that is gorgeous and all the others inspiring.

I would think once you know where you outlets will be you could use a zip tool or one of those oscillating tool and maybe just tin snips..

 

[BD1]

I am seriously looking at this but haven't come up with a good way to cut in outlets. I want to mount outlet boxes for my lights and run the wiring in the attic. I would prefer flush mounted but could go with surface mount but don't know what electrical inspector would want where it comes through the metal from the attic. Has anyone done it either of these ways. Gman that is gorgeous and all the others inspiring.

What about trying a bit from a MALCO sheet metal cutter. I think it would work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YL3AQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000289542/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[uppster]

How does it effect phone reception?

 

[Marctrees]

I would think once you know where you outlets will be you could use a zip tool or one of those oscillating tool and maybe just tin snips..

Sure you could, but why screw w it unless you are OCD ??? Marc

 

[Notgrownup]

Sure you could, but why screw w it unless you are OCD ??? Marc

I will only need 1 outlet or 2 in the ceiling otherwise it will be holes with grommets if I got the metal way. I still may go painted osb.

 

[Marctrees]

Not "Grommets" for this use, but "Connectors", for NMC cable ("Romex") or any other conduit.

I assumed more than a one car garage.

Whatever works for you is great. Marc

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Go for the tin 100%. Best single choice I've made it my shop, besides the insulation behind it. You will love it, it does not collect dust and makes it nice and bright, like others have said.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Forgot to add, in the first pic I posted. You can see the Romex hanging through the ceiling. Just leave long tails. Then push it through a plastic bushing/insulator. I used the holesaw in the bushing size from electricians holesaw kit to make the holes.

 

[stevenmi]

How does the Durapanel compare to drywall weight wise?

Steve

 

[eric.holmslice]

I'm nearly complete with my metal ceiling. I can do 10 foot panels solo with 2x4 bracing in the ceiling. I think it adds a nice modern industrial feel to the garage when combined with Sheetrock walls.










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[jomobco]

How does the Durapanel compare to drywall weight wise?

Steve

Your phone is in a can. I can still call out of my shop with metal walls and ceilings but I have windows. It does kill the signal a bit. Still any pole barn will likely have metal walls anyway.

I have wifi in my shop so my phone goes voip with my provider. No worries here.

 

[ncboat]

March, guys, thanks I am sold. I have used the metal roofing on my screen porch and she'd and love it. I can get 12' sheets which will make it easy.

 

[pfmg]

Did it love it. All lights are surface mounted with conduit.


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87325&highlight=barage

 

[denis4x4]

I used galvanized roofing on the interior of my garage with surface mounted electrical. Even though it's insulated, it doesn't absorb noise. Basically it's used for storage now. cannot rotae photo, but you can get the idea!

 

[Talon2006]

I did it. I love it. One of the best shop build decisions I made. 1800 overhead screws were fun. I also used a sheetrock lift to put the panels up and insulated above to R-50 with cellulose.

I am assuming your panels were 26 ga? Did they go perpendicular to your rafters?

Any issues with sagging with the weight of the blow in insulation on top?