Metal Tube Building

[JBjunior]

I have almost completely decided on doing a pole barn (with some sort of ground/rot protection) but I keep seeing the advertisements for these 2 1/4" (14 ga or 12 ga, or similar) tube buildings with concrete and 29/26 ga siding/roof at relatively good deals from several manufacturers in my area. I know there are a lot of threads out there with people recommending red iron, pole barn, or conventional construction but for anyone that has one of these "metal tube" buildings, what is your actual experience?

Longevity? Insulation? Usability? Pluses? Minuses? Happy? Do it again for the price/sq ft? Complications?

Basically, what is the expected "life" of one of these buildings properly constructed and with concrete and what are the positives/negatives for using it as a shop?

 

[DougWil]

Never owned one, but they are bare bones shelter.

All steel, they sweat, difficult to wire and interior sheet, no space (2 1/4") for insulation, high thermal conductivity, lots of air infiltration.

Pretty much everything you don't want in a shop.

 

[JBjunior]

Never owned one, but they are bare bones shelter.

All steel, they sweat, difficult to wire and interior sheet, no space (2 1/4") for insulation, high thermal conductivity, lots of air infiltration.

Pretty much everything you don't want in a shop.

Thanks for the response. I just came across this thread/build and it looks pretty amazing. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279043

 

[readhead]

I sell and erect these buildings as a more affordable alternative to red iron. It was a tough decision because so many of these buildings are poorly designed and assembled. Plus the industry as a whole is plagued with bad reviews. My goal was to find a supplier where I could do the install because that seemed to be the biggest source of complaints.

The way the sale works for most of these companies is you choose what you want from a menu of options and settle on the price. You give the salesman a ten percent deposit which is the commission for the sale. At this point you are at the mercy of the building company and their scheduling. More often than not this does not end well.

I went with Versatube and have been very happy. I live in a high snow load area and had to have a product that would work up to 120 pounds of roof snow. To answer Doug's concerns the building will perform the same as a red iron building. It can be insulated the same way. Condensation can be delt with the same way. I'm not sure why you think there will be a lot of air infiltration. From the exterior you wouldn't be able to tell if it was tube, red iron, pole barn or stick frame.

To answer your questions about life span and insulation etc. It will be a very durable building. The electrician will have no issues. Our buildings will have up to 5 1/2" of room if you want to do batt insulation.

Choose carefully about suppliers and I think you will be satisfied.

 

[JBjunior]

I sell and erect these buildings as a more affordable alternative to red iron. It was a tough decision because so many of these buildings are poorly designed and assembled. Plus the industry as a whole is plagued with bad reviews. My goal was to find a supplier where I could do the install because that seemed to be the biggest source of complaints.

The way the sale works for most of these companies is you choose what you want from a menu of options and settle on the price. You give the salesman a ten percent deposit which is the commission for the sale. At this point you are at the mercy of the building company and their scheduling. More often than not this does not end well.

I went with Versatube and have been very happy. I live in a high snow load area and had to have a product that would work up to 120 pounds of roof snow. To answer Doug's concerns the building will perform the same as a red iron building. It can be insulated the same way. Condensation can be delt with the same way. I'm not sure why you think there will be a lot of air infiltration. From the exterior you wouldn't be able to tell if it was tube, red iron, pole barn or stick frame.

To answer your questions about life span and insulation etc. It will be a very durable building. The electrician will have no issues. Our buildings will have up to 5 1/2" of room if you want to do batt insulation.

Choose carefully about suppliers and I think you will be satisfied.

Thanks for the response. There are two companies that are in my area that do wonderful work for "what they are." As in, they have many happy customers. They are small local companies that sell and build their own structures, one even does their own concrete. They have done larger commercial structures.

I don't want to "cut corners" now for something I want to last a very long time. But, if the buildings are adequate for my use and are less expensive for similar performance... I want to make sure I am exploring all options.

 

[rburke65]

Well remember the adage...ya get what ya pay for......

 

[readhead]

Rburke65, your point?

 

[JBjunior]

Well remember the adage...ya get what ya pay for......

I do agree with you on most accounts, I usually go by the "buy once, cry once" mentality. But for the same reason I don't buy new cars or $1000 suits, there may be other options out there that do the same job for less money but might not have all of the bells and whistles.

This thread is for factual information from people that are familiar with this type of building. I have read for months upon months and many threads of how people shouldn't have one and should instead build red iron, with very few (if any) actual people that have them currently.

Maybe they are a complete waste of money, but maybe they are a good value. I am looking for first hand accounts.

 

[readhead]

Houses can be built with wood, logs, cmu, metal etc. Just the same there is no right way to build a garage. You need to build what works the best for your needs. I have had customers come in looking for a metal building and convinced them that wood would be their best choice.

Study all your options and make an informed decision.

 

[JBjunior]

Any thoughts from anyone that owns one? And/or that considered other building options and went with this type of building?

 

[gtcs]

I went with one, even though I worked for a contractor that erected red iron. One of the big factors in my decision was how much floor space you lose with the purlins and columns. In my area I am limited in square footage, and it was over 100 sq ft in usable space difference. Also there was the cost factor, and I had my tube building erected for less than a red iron (at cost + 10%) that I still had to build.

Without insulation it is almost unusable, definitely insulate right away. As far as wiring put it in conduit where wire belongs, and its always accessible if you need to modify it. One thing no one told me till after I ordered was that you can add frame sections however you want. If I had known this I would have added some to make them 4' apart as opposed to 5'.

Going against a red iron building, it was a tough decision, but I only considered a pole barn for about 15 minutes before that was out of the running.

 

[JBjunior]

I went with one, even though I worked for a contractor that erected red iron. One of the big factors in my decision was how much floor space you lose with the purlins and columns. In my area I am limited in square footage, and it was over 100 sq ft in usable space difference. Also there was the cost factor, and I had my tube building erected for less than a red iron (at cost + 10%) that I still had to build.

Without insulation it is almost unusable, definitely insulate right away. As far as wiring put it in conduit where wire belongs, and its always accessible if you need to modify it. One thing no one told me till after I ordered was that you can add frame sections however you want. If I had known this I would have added some to make them 4' apart as opposed to 5'.

Going against a red iron building, it was a tough decision, but I only considered a pole barn for about 15 minutes before that was out of the running.

Thank you very much for your example.

 

[thecj3man]

My shop is a metal building that was constructed of formed sheet metal "C"s. I am not sure of the gauge of the material. The "C"s are 2" wide and 4" deep. The wall post and trusses are both constructed with this material. I saw several buildings of this type being built near me when I was looking to build my garage. There were two local companies that built most of these buildings. They both took flat stock galvanized material and formed it to shape in their shops. The trusses were welded together and then cold galvanized. So far I am super happy with my 40X60 building. It has R-19 in the walls and the roof and it seems to do a great job. Air leakage is almost non existent so far. When you open the door sometimes the garage doors will rattle. I also am considering adding an intake air vent for my gas heater. You can feel air coming under the man door when the heat is on.

I will add. I ran all of my wiring in conduit, so it was not a problem. I am currently running my air lines in black iron piping. Again, its no problem.

 

[knightp25]

i just built a 17x24 metal building this year, no complaints so far, i have it completely wired (outlets, ceiling fan, etc..)

Im currently working on insulating the building now.

I will say without insulation the structure does get hot in the summer.

for the price you cant beat it, compared to wood

 

[aka Larry]

Never owned one, but they are bare bones shelter.

All steel, they sweat, difficult to wire and interior sheet, no space (2 1/4") for insulation, high thermal conductivity, lots of air infiltration.

Pretty much everything you don't want in a shop.

Wow, I never never my shop sucked so much until you told me.

To the OP, check out my signature line. I'm also in NC.

 

[bczygan]

You DO get what you pay for.

But that isn't to say one is better than another as a matter of course.

Each building type has it's place and will fulfill different needs.

A tube building won't support the loads a red iron one can. But since cost is always part of any equation, it is a less expensive enclosure of cubic space.

Every building type and structural solution has solutions to different problems, and sometimes a combination is the answer.

I can see where a tube steel building could be combined with some structural steel to provide the capability for a crane. Wood, engineered and otherwise also has it's place. Even masonry can be used to give thermal mass and help a building complement residential areas better than a metal building would. I've done metal buildings that you couldn't tell were metal, until you went inside.



Bill

 

[readhead]

In the process of getting into tube buildings I found a lot of pretty dicey offerings out there. I did find some good quality systems that I was comfortable with. I just sold a building going to Silverton Colorado with stamped plans for a 90 pound roof snow load. Between the less complicated foundation and easier construction we came in at 60% of what a red iron building would have been. As Bill pointed out there is more than one way to accomplish the desired result.

 

[Sasquatch912]

im getting one. but im not getting insulation..for some reason i walked into a couple the company im getting mine from and the one with insulation was hot inside...the one without insulation was cooler.

 

[KDXSR5]

In for more tube building info. I have been eyeing Versatube's offerings. Readhead, you say that Versatube can handle heavy snow loads? What about Wyoming wind? Can they be ordered with siding metal that looks more like a traditional siding? I am allowed to have horizontal metal siding, but not vertical. The versatube buildings are placed on a slab foundation, correct? No stem wall? Thank you.

 

[DougWil]

Wow, I never never my shop sucked so much until you told me.

Sorry, but it is reality.
It does **** ..... a lot of infiltrating air, escaping heated or A/Ced air and energy if you heated it or cooled it.

You have lots of air leakage through lap siding unless you caulked every lap.
You have lots of small gaps at all the trim pieces, even using foam closure strips.
Steel has a much higher thermal conductivity than wood. The steel tubing and steel siding act as a big radiator.

Which is good, because in your case since you didn't insulate or finish the interior that constant thermal air flow keeps the humidity and the temperature of the siding about the same on the inside surfaces as the outside, so it doesn't sweat.

But I bet you do working in there on a hot, humid day.

I said it was harder to insulate and finish the interior, because of the large "stud" spacing, and shallow cavity space. You didn't have those difficulties because you didn't do either.

 

[BlueDodgeRam]

Here is mine. 30x50. No build thread yet though, even though it's "done" for right now.

 

[Sasquatch912]

Is insulation worth it? Its very humid here in the summer and hot.

 

[readhead]

KDXSR5, these buildings can be installed on a slab or a stem wall. The standard wind load is 90 mph but can be increased. Specify four foot frame spacing and you can install horizontal siding. 26 ga sheeting is an option. The siding will be classic rib. Another option would be to order the frame only and supply your own metal. Then you can order any profile you want.

Insulation is always a good option. However it does two things. It can keep heat out but it can keep heat in. If you are in a high heat area and leave the doors open you may trap heat. In that case some kind of exhaust might be in order.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Sasquatch912.
Until you include your location in your profile, no one knows where "here" is.

 

[DougWil]

Is insulation worth it? Its very humid here in the summer and hot.

Well I guess it depends if you don't mind working in a hot, humid shop.
Insulation only insulates, it would require AC and or a dehumidifier to make it comfortable. And without lots of insulation, properly installed with attention to details and heat transfer paths it will make your meter $pin.

Personally, my shop is very well insulated, wood frame and heated with 4-5 cords of softwood every winter to keep it comfortable and the machinery, lathe, mill, surface grinder, etc at a more consistent temperature.

Fortunately I don't have to worry about summer heat or humidity.
Do have obnoxious deer flies though.





.

 

[Sasquatch912]

Well I may do without the insulation...I may later add a huge fan near the top wall to draw out air and keep it circulating.

 

[KDXSR5]

Here is mine. 30x50. No build thread yet though, even though it's "done" for right now.

Shop looks good! AND that definitely is not a blue dodge ram I am seeing in the photo. Digging the yota!

 

[KDXSR5]

KDXSR5, these buildings can be installed on a slab or a stem wall. The standard wind load is 90 mph but can be increased. Specify four foot frame spacing and you can install horizontal siding. 26 ga sheeting is an option. The siding will be classic rib. Another option would be to order the frame only and supply your own metal. Then you can order any profile you want.

Insulation is always a good option. However it does two things. It can keep heat out but it can keep heat in. If you are in a high heat area and leave the doors open you may trap heat. In that case some kind of exhaust might be in order.

Thank you for the info, I appreciate it. Do you have many customers spray foam the versatube structures? Or are other insulation means more common?

 

[readhead]

Yes some customers have spray foamed. It can be insulated like any metal covered building. If you go with blanket insulation I would recommend 26 ga sheeting. The 29 ga will dimple badly at the screws. With Versatube you will have a three inch cavity so batt insulation is also an option. I had a customer use batts then screwed 2x4 horizontally and installed osb.

 

[Sharpest]

I'm not sure if something like my building is what you're speaking of but it sounds similar. Here's the link I think mine was built in the 60s or 70s and is in rural coastal south Texas. Around 5200 sq ft. The foundation is a deep concrete footer around the perimeter and a floating slab for the interior. The interior slab has some fairly severe cracks but is still usable. The footer has ~2 3/4" drill stem posts cast in place and a drill stem top-plate. The roof trusses are arched and appear to be sucker rod. It has wood perlins running perpendicular to the trusses and is sheathed with corrugated steel all around. The building may be way older since my grand parents bought it for my dad when he was in high school (69-73 timeframe) because they were tired of car parts littering their driveway

I will say it gets hot as **** in the summer. My IR temp gun has read over 120 degrees on the underside of the roof pretty frequently and there usually isnt much of a breeze through it, even with all five doors open. The wiring is old and not great. Adding new circuits is particularly difficult since it all *should* be run through EMT. There are also no plumbing penetrations in the slab at all, my water and sewer are both at the very front of the building and run into the structure outside and over the slab so that somewhat limits my options as well.

I inherited and it is a ton of free space that is functional to work in but due to geography and the demands of my career, I doubt I will make any further improvements beyond re-roofing it. The roof has rust pinholes all over and the sheet metal needs to be replaced. Due to the radius of the roof, my replacement material selection is extremely limited.

Knowing what I do from this building, if I were to build from scratch I'd probably shoot for around 3k sq ft and go with a wood pole barn configuration. Its just so much easier to work with and I am a huge DIY'er with MANY construction industry relationships so i'm pretty confident I'd be able to build on the cheap. Hell aluminum R or PBR paneling alone costs half of what corrugated steel does these days.