Metal vs drywall ceiling in garage

[hockey88fan]

It's time to do the ceiling my garage. I've been set on drywall but recently saw one finished with white metal, the kind used to side pole buildings. It looked really bright and I liked the fact that when screw it up it's basically done, no finishing or painting. I'd like to hear comments from guys who have both. Also, how would you insulate with the metal ceiling? Specifically, is a vapor barrier used when insulating? The upstairs won't be heated, the downstairs will have radiant in slab as soon as the funds allow. Thanks!

 

[Motofixxer]

Was it mine you saw???

I like the ease of putting the steel up. It looks nice, it's different. Everyone comments positively on it. Drywall would have been so much slower and more work and hassle on my cathedral ceiling. You have a lower easier ceiling so it wouldn't be so bad. It really works out to cost, amount of work, and preference.

 

[John in OH]

I just recently installed a steel ceiling in my 34x54 shop. I considered drywall, but for many of the same reasons you mention ... quick, one-step & it's done, no sanding, no painting, ... no muss, no fuss.

It took 3 guys two days to install the 10'-6" long J-channels and the 44, 14' x 3' panels. They pre-drilled all the panels before lifting them up ... these panels are not light and are awkward to handle. They must be aligned much more carefully than installing drywall panels. I had the J-channel set out from the wall 1/2 in. to allow future drywall on the walls to slip up behind the vertical leg of the J-channel to ease future finishing of the top edge of the drywall.

Things for you or anyone to be aware of ... check with your local inspector before selecting steel vs. drywall for the ceiling. The steel has a Class A fire spread rating, BUT it does not have a fire retardant rating. There may be concerns if you want to finish a room on second floor of your garage for habitation. Also, the electrical work for all of the ceiling mounted fixtures is a little more difficult (you want to avoid the big ridges on the panels) and you have to be careful of the sharp metal edges cutting the wiring so cutting and trimming holes for boxes takes time.

I installed regular faced insulation in the ceiling as you can see in some of the photos. Don't know if the vapor barrier is required or not, but using the staple flanges on the insulation bats makes the installation easier.

So far, I'm very pleased with the steel ceiling, but its been up for only two weeks! Lights and ceiling fans are next.

 

[hockey88fan]

I just recently installed a steel ceiling in my 34x54 shop. I considered drywall, but for many of the same reasons you mention ... quick, one-step & it's done, no sanding, no painting, ... no muss, no fuss.

It took 3 guys two days to install the 10'-6" long J-channels and the 44, 14' x 3' panels. They pre-drilled all the panels before lifting them up ... these panels are not light and are awkward to handle. They must be aligned much more carefully than installing drywall panels. I had the J-channel set out from the wall 1/2 in. to allow future drywall on the walls to slip up behind the vertical leg of the J-channel to ease future finishing of the top edge of the drywall.

Things for you or anyone to be aware of ... check with your local inspector before selecting steel vs. drywall for the ceiling. The steel has a Class A fire spread rating, BUT it does not have a fire retardant rating. There may be concerns if you want to finish a room on second floor of your garage for habitation. Also, the electrical work for all of the ceiling mounted fixtures is a little more difficult (you want to avoid the big ridges on the panels) and you have to be careful of the sharp metal edges cutting the wiring so cutting and trimming holes for boxes takes time.

I installed regular faced insulation in the ceiling as you can see in some of the photos. Don't know if the vapor barrier is required or not, but using the staple flanges on the insulation bats makes the installation easier.

So far, I'm very pleased with the steel ceiling, but its been up for only two weeks! Lights and ceiling fans are next.

Great info, and looks awesome!! Thanks!

 

[Mike007]

I went with steel for all the reasons mentioned. One other benefit, if I recall correctly the steel was about 1/2 the weight of 1/2" sheetrock.

 

[OccupantRJ]

What material is the J channel, and where are you guys getting it?

 

[pinebarkauto]

I used metal on my walls and ceiling in my shop. All electrical is surface mounted in conduit. My building is a pole barn and it was just easier. If it had been a stud wall construction, I would have still used metal on the ceiling but gone with a wood covering on the walls for ease of mounting cabinets and shelving. I got my metal and supplies from MetalBuildingSupplyCo.com in Piedmont, SC. 1-800-922-8039. Chip.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I put in sheetrock when I built my shop 20 years ago. Last fall, I helped a friend put metal on the ceiling of his shop. We completed the job in 2 days for a 24x30 building. If I was doing my shop today, I would do metal. The only down side to the metal is it is a bit more difficult to locate/install outlets in.

 

[54stude]

Keep posting pics guys! I am thinking about a metal ceiling in my shop this summer. Does anyone have pics of metal on a steep inside ceiling, like a 10/12 rafter garage for instance?

 

[John in OH]

What material is the J channel, and where are you guys getting it?

The J-channel is steel and is available from the steel panel manufacturer so wherever you buy the steel panels should be able to also provide the J-channel. Most of these panel manufactures seem to provide a fairly wide range of trim components to match the panels.

Dimensions are roughly 3" horizontal upper flange for attachment to joist (note the channel is attached to the joist, NOT to the wall), approximate 3/4" vertical leg and approximately 3/4" horizontal lower flange with folded lip. Sorry I don't have a photo or exact dimensions.

The channel is not supposed to provide any support for the panels, it's just a finish piece for the sidewalls.

 

[jlckmj]

My opinion? Metal for sure!
As far as insulation, I have blown some above the metal, and I have done the bats, like the picture above, both work.

Jim

 

[PCO6]

I used aluminum soffit - 16" W x 10' L panels. They are very light and were easy to install by myself. I used 6" insulation batts and a 6mm vapour barrier. To be honest, I didn't even consider drywall. Too much work!

 

[pipsters]

What is the price difference? Something about the metal ceilings just does not look right to me. Personally I wouldn't put them in my garage.

 

[gooned]

What is the price difference? Something about the metal ceilings just does not look right to me. Personally I wouldn't put them in my garage.

In a working shop I think it'd be great, may even do mine in tin.

In a "polish and store" garage definetly go drywall and paint.. my 0.02

 

[Justanoldguy]

Good thread guys.
Love the finished look to steel.
More pics please and detail shots of j channel, fittings etc.

 

[camarotoolman]

The vinyl or aluminum soffit would be alot less work, much easier on your bod. I had drywall on my porch ceiling, had to paint it about every year to keep it looking nice. Covered it over with vinyl, just hose it down now.

 

[OccupantRJ]

The J-channel is steel and is available from the steel panel manufacturer so wherever you buy the steel panels should be able to also provide the J-channel. Most of these panel manufactures seem to provide a fairly wide range of trim components to match the panels.

Dimensions are roughly 3" horizontal upper flange for attachment to joist (note the channel is attached to the joist, NOT to the wall), approximate 3/4" vertical leg and approximately 3/4" horizontal lower flange with folded lip. Sorry I don't have a photo or exact dimensions.

The channel is not supposed to provide any support for the panels, it's just a finish piece for the sidewalls.

The reason I asked, is because there may be people buying the metal sheets from a source that stocks the sheets, but not the trim. In that case, I would think that vinyl J channel could be used, or aluminum trim coil could be used to bend up some trim. In my case, there is a roll forming operation for the metal roofing just 2 miles from my house, but is wholesale only, distributed through a wholesaler next door to them, who also happens to own the place. I gotta see if I can get my friend the roofing contractor to hook me up for what I will need.

 

[hockey88fan]

I used aluminum soffit - 16" W x 10' L panels. They are very light and were easy to install by myself. I used 6" insulation batts and a 6mm vapour barrier. To be honest, I didn't even consider drywall. Too much work!

Looks great

 

[darkk]

Wish I could have used metal. Code required 5/8" fire rated drywall.

 

[sberry]

I like that soffit.

 

[5lima30]

I am about 85% complete on installing a corrugated metal ceiling in my garage. I have been doing a little at a time this winter. I am also insulating above it w/ unfaced R-30 batts. One thing I have been amazed with, is that the lighting is so much better even with the same fixtures. I borrowed the idea from several members here. Check out Texas Saltbox!

 

[Motofixxer]

Light colored reflective surfaces work wonders

 

[RonRock]

I just did the vaulted portion of my pole barn this winter. I used the white steel "Pole Barn" siding. I was also torn between steel and drywall. Very happy I went with steel. It looks great in my opinion. And when I was done hanging it I was done with the project. I insulated with unfaced batts as I went along.

One deciding factor for me was the fact that drywall in a pole barn that will sometimes be cold, then heated in winter would likely crack.

 

[5lima30]

IMHO I think that the metal will handle bumps and bangs better than drywall. I also hate painting!

 

[SGKent]

ever seen paint on steel peel after several years even though it was prepped correctly? I would also think the noise reflection would be worse. But then I like to listen to music when I am in the garage.

 

[Justanoldguy]

ever seen paint on steel peel after several years even though it was prepped correctly?

In NZ the paint on the steel is baked on.
You can't remove it even if you wanted to.
It's called colorsteel here.
Do you not do the same process over there?

 

[jvitez]

Anyone know what the per sq ft weight limit is for steel panels in a ceiling application? I'm wondering about blown in insulation weight.

 

[PCO6]

I'll try to answer some of the questions above based on my experience. First, my garage is 20'x20' and I did it with aluminum soffit material (post #12 above) so it's neither steel or drywall.

Cost - My total cost was a about $475 for the panels and screws. I didn't cost out drywall but my guess is that it might have been as little as half of that even with the cost taping, mud and paint.

Labour - I did mine myself without having to gut the garage of tools, equipment, etc. to do it. It went up very quickly and there was no drywall lift, taping, sanding, painting, etc. to deal with.

Noise - I can't compare it to drywall but I haven't found it to be a problem at all. The loudest thing I do is probably grinding metal and nothing is going to change the noise that makes.

Lighting - It's great but I can't say that it's any better than drywall painted white would be. I initially bought 4' T8 flourescents with deflectors. I found that the lights without them work better as the ceiling itself is a good deflector.

Durability - My ceiling is 10' high and I do have to be careful swinging lengths of metal around. I have flourescent lights hung from the ceiling so I have to be careful anyway. If I do damage a panel I can replace it but it would more difficult than patching drywall.

Weight - There is no comparison here. My entire ceiling probably weighs less than 2 sheets of drywall.

Building Code - I don't have a habitable room above my garage (attic only) so I don't believe this is an issue.

Vapour Barrier - I know there are differing views on this but in this area it's common to install a barrier on the walls and ceiling. The attic is well ventilated and I don't expect any moisture, mould, etc. problems.

Paint - The panels are matt white and are good to go as is. They are designed for outdoor use so I can't see that they will ever require touching up due to dulling, peeling, etc.

"J" Molding - Intead of using "J" molding I installed a band of 1"x6" MDF to finish of the corner seams. I use it to mount my air and electrical conduits to.

Appearance - I feel that it has a more industrial look which I like.

Overall I am very happy with the way it went up and turned out and am glad I went with aluminum.

 

[hockey88fan]

I'll try to answer some of the questions above based on my experience. First, my garage is 20'x20' and I did it with aluminum soffit material (post #12 above) so it's neither steel or drywall.

Cost - My total cost was a about $475 for the panels and screws. I didn't cost out drywall but my guess is that it might have been as little as half of that even with the cost taping, mud and paint.

Labour - I did mine myself without having to gut the garage of tools, equipment, etc. to do it. It went up very quickly and there was no drywall lift, taping, sanding, painting, etc. to deal with.

Noise - I can't compare it to drywall but I haven't found it to be a problem at all. The loudest thing I do is probably grinding metal and nothing is going to change the noise that makes.

Lighting - It's great but I can't say that it's any better than drywall painted white would be. I initially bought 4' T8 flourescents with deflectors. I found that the lights without them work better as the ceiling itself is a good deflector.

Durability - My ceiling is 10' high and I do have to be careful swinging lengths of metal around. I have flourescent lights hung from the ceiling so I have to be careful anyway. If I do damage a panel I can replace it but it would more difficult than patching drywall.

Weight - There is no comparison here. My entire ceiling probably weighs less than 2 sheets of drywall.

Building Code - I don't have a habitable room above my garage (attic only) so I don't believe this is an issue.

Vapour Barrier - I know there are differing views on this but in this area it's common to install a barrier on the walls and ceiling. The attic is well ventilated and I don't expect any moisture, mould, etc. problems.

Paint - The panels are matt white and are good to go as is. They are designed for outdoor use so I can't see that they will ever require touching up due to dulling, peeling, etc.

"J" Molding - Intead of using "J" molding I installed a band of 1"x6" MDF to finish of the corner seams. I use it to mount my air and electrical conduits to.

Appearance - I feel that it has a more industrial look which I like.

Overall I am very happy with the way it went up and turned out and am glad I went with aluminum.

Great info, covered all anyone would need to know, thanks!!

 

[samert111]

Quoted cost to do my 28' x 48' x 15' Pole Barn ceiling in drywall, hung, taped & painted was $2500.

Cost to do it in metal Durapanel was approx. $1300 for the steel panels, J channel and screws, but I installed it myself so add a few hundred for labor.

Personally, I prefer the metal. It reflects the light better and I think the ribs actually cut down on the noise and sound echos.

I ordered my Durapanels from Menards. You can order them to any length up to 24 ft I think. Mine were 10'-1" so there was a little overlap on 24" on center trusses. At that length I was able to put them up by myself with some borrowed scaffolding and a couple pcs of 10 ft 1" diameter metal conduit with a 3' bend at a 90 degree angle and then the long leg slid down into the vertical pipes of the scaffolding. I then used foam pipe insulation slid over the horizontal bend to protect the panels finish. Once I had a panel lifted onto the horizontal padded legs of the conduit I slid it up to just below the ceiling and put a bolt in a hole drilled thru the conduit to hold it there. Then positioned the panel in place and screwed it up.

As I came up to an electrical light box I moved it a little to fall between the ribs into the flat area, made a note of it's location and put the panel up and drilled a 5/8" hole and used tin snips to cut the hole in the metal. Tried first marking and cutting holes before putting up panels but could never get the hole to line up very well.

 

[PCO6]

samert111 ^^^ That looks great. From a cost perspective it sounds like you benefitted from size compared to me. Admittedly, I just went to Home Depot and bought supplies while I needed them so the cost was a bit higher.

As for the "overlap", my ceiling panels run from front to back in the garage. I have a 2' wide plywood panel running from side to side on which I have mounted my air and electrical lines. It covers the seams nicely and it was an easy way to get from one side of the gargage to the other without having to go along the walls.

 

[PCO6]

Great info, covered all anyone would need to know, thanks!!

Thanks hockey88fan. I'm not sure that I covered everything but I would be happy to answer any questions or clear up any "confusion" I may have created.

 

[John in OH]

Quotes for steel vs. drywall on my 34' x 54' ceiling:

Steel - 44, 29 ga. panels, matching J-channel and matching screws, installed: $2,800
Drywall - 5/8", installed, tapped and sanded. NO paint. $2,300

I wanted the steel so elected to spend the additional $500 ... but note the drywall cost did NOT include paint ... so figure at least 1 coat primer and 1 coat (maybe 2 coats) finish paint. Final difference would have been much less than $500.

Also, if you plan to install steel, IMHO, a rolling scaffold is a MUST!!

 

[samert111]

Here is a good example of the white metal reflecting the light down although the fluorescents helped alot also.

Same shots at night before and after the fluorescents were installed. And they pull just a little more than half the amps the 100 watt incandescent flood lights did.

 

[bop_pa]

No of fence to any one who has done the metal ceiling, but when I see materials other than drywall up there it makes me think someone was avoiding doing it the most attractive way. Sure there are really nice alternate materials but it is hard to beat a drywall ceiling for clean lines. I'm a novice and done plenty of drywall. My biggest discovery was finding a local rental center that rents the Porter Cable drywall pole sander. It's basically for novices like me who are not expert mud flingers. My jobs look pretty good to me. However if you are worried about time and finish, there are plenty of drywall guys who could literally knock out all of your drywall, mudding and taping for probably $1500. Bucks in like 8 hrs. Pros are super quick and can be found reasonably. I'm poor so I did it myself, although it is not my most favorite thing to do.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Did the aluminum soffit easily join the together? Is is made to join together side by side?

 

[Motofixxer]

No of fence to any one who has done the metal ceiling, but when I see materials other than drywall up there it makes me think someone was avoiding doing it the most attractive way.

BTW: it's "Offense"

Who says it has to be "the most attractive way". If any of us did it differently than you, fine. We all have different opinions. But there is no right or wrong way to make it look. I did mine partly to be different. and because I like the look of it. So does everybody that walks in and sees it. I did it partly for the ease of install, and access later.

So to being different and making your space what you want.

 

[samert111]

No of fence to any one who has done the metal ceiling, but when I see materials other than drywall up there it makes me think someone was avoiding doing it the most attractive way. Sure there are really nice alternate materials but it is hard to beat a drywall ceiling for clean lines. I'm a novice and done plenty of drywall. My biggest discovery was finding a local rental center that rents the Porter Cable drywall pole sander. It's basically for novices like me who are not expert mud flingers. My jobs look pretty good to me. However if you are worried about time and finish, there are plenty of drywall guys who could literally knock out all of your drywall, mudding and taping for probably $1500. Bucks in like 8 hrs. Pros are super quick and can be found reasonably. I'm poor so I did it myself, although it is not my most favorite thing to do.

The reasons I went with metal vs. drywall was:
1) It was approx. $1000 less expensive based on the quotes I received from the drywall guys. I don't do drywall and the metal I could do myself.
2) Weight, Drywall is at least 3-4 times heavier than steel.
3) Pole Barns are not like stick built buildings and they move around some and the drywall guys could not guarantee me the joints would not crack.

 

[pitterpat]

In a new house to me (built 19560 that has a 2 car gar. attached by a breezeway and a 1 car (16 x 22) gar. at the back of the lot. I luv that gar, I can use it to restore one of my VW's.

I have what they call a "hip" roof I think...it has 4 sections that come to a peak in the middle. My ceiling is my roof, it does not have an inclosed ceiling and if it did it would be too low. I'm not sure how hard it would be to install metal for ceiling. I've thought about just painting it and letting it go. But I know I need to insulate, it was warm enough in there a few weeks ago when we had 35 deg. weather that I did not have to have on gloves or a jacket.

What are you guys thoughts on just painting the ceiling and letting it go? Or I could insulate the roof this summer, put up the steel in the fall and insulate and drywall the walls in the fall. All is based on funds. I think I should insulate because it will be an inferno in there this summer.

Here are pics of the roof inside and out. And one of my "donor" car that I will use to donate parts to the car I am restoring. The pwder on the floor is portland cement...trying to pull some oil out of the floor. The red VW is one that I regularly drive, I have a 3rd that I inherited from my dad that I will start restoring this summer after I get some more done on the gar & house.

 

[John in OH]

In a new house to me (built 19560 that has a 2 car gar. attached by a breezeway and a 1 car (16 x 22) gar. at the back of the lot. I luv that gar, I can use it to restore one of my VW's.

I have what they call a "hip" roof I think...it has 4 sections that come to a peak in the middle. My ceiling is my roof, it does not have an inclosed ceiling and if it did it would be too low. I'm not sure how hard it would be to install metal for ceiling. I've thought about just painting it and letting it go. But I know I need to insulate, it was warm enough in there a few weeks ago when we had 35 deg. weather that I did not have to have on gloves or a jacket.

What are you guys thoughts on just painting the ceiling and letting it go? Or I could insulate the roof this summer, put up the steel in the fall and insulate and drywall the walls in the fall. All is based on funds. I think I should insulate because it will be an inferno in there this summer.

Here are pics of the roof inside and out. And one of my "donor" car that I will use to donate parts to the car I am restoring. The pwder on the floor is portland cement...trying to pull some oil out of the floor. The red VW is one that I regularly drive, I have a 3rd that I inherited from my dad that I will start restoring this summer after I get some more done on the gar & house.

Before anyone can give you really good answers, you need to provide more info. For instance:
1) Where do you live??? (You should add this info to your GJ profile)
2) Do you have a heat source or power for AC in the garage?
3) How much time do you plan to spend in this garage?

But regardless of the above, an insulated ceiling is probably the best improvement that can be made to a garage. And for a 16x22 garage this is an easy DYI project. IMHO, if funds are available, adding an insulated ceiling is a no-brainer.

You've got the plan right! Ceiling insulation first, ceiling next, wall insulation, then sheet rock on the walls. Make sure you have all of the electrical work done before you install the ceiling steel (you've got some scary looking wiring in there!!). You should consider adding more of the 16' joists at the top of the sidewalls so as to create a flat ceiling instead of trying to follow the existing rafters. Sounds like a fun project to me!