Milwaukee Chuck Removal - Screw stuck

[Boggie1688]

Hi,

I have a Milwaukee M18 hammer drill, model 2704. The chuck wobbles like all hell and I managed to get my hands on a Rohm 9/16 replacement.

I got the Rohm today, and went straight to removing the chuck. I was expecting a phillips screw but found a torx screw instead. I believe it is a T40 size.

I have a small T40 bit, used a 1/4 inch socket, the a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter then my M18 impact. The freaking screw won't budge. Oh and yes ive got the impact set to clockwise.

Any ideas on what I can do?

 

[CJM8515]

I had to use a torx allen key and a pipe to get mine to budge its loctited.

 

[Boggie1688]

Blue loctite my ***. Sorry just a little poed this screw is ruining my day.

Guess I'm ordering up some torx Allen keys.

 

[rq375]

I used 3/8 sliding T bar / torx socket and hit it with a hammer a couple of times, just support it at the chuck, not the body of the drill.

 

[Hytekrednek]

try using a soldering iron to heat up the screw good and hot. That should help the thread locker to turn loose.

 

[Mick56]

I changed some chucks over the years on old corded drills. I thought they were left hand thread.

The screw inside the chuck was LH, the chuck itself was RH.

 

[jhelrey]

I'm sure it is LH thread.

 

[PugetDude]

LH thread; I usually just chuck the key into the jaws, then give it a firm rap with a mallet to turn the chuck CW.

 

[Fialaja]

I changed some chucks over the years on old corded drills. I thought they were left hand thread.

I believe he’s talking about the screw inside the chuck that secures it to the spindle not the chuck itself...

 

[GrayFlattop]

If it’s a reversing drill, that screw will have left hand threads.

 

[Millwrong]

It's a LH screw. With threadlocker. Use more force lol.

 

[CR888]

Often the screw will have thread locker on it, but it should be a LH thread. Being a torx fastener you can use an impact but what I'd do first is get a pencil blowtorch & hit the torx head to soften things up and expend/contract. I was removing a Rohm chuck last week off a Makita drill and without heat a Milwaukee Fuel M-18 hammering away would not budge it but that was the chuck not the retaining screw. BOTH can be annoying, if you bust Tue head off the fastener you'll need to drill it, but hopefully it wont come to that.

 

[tarmy]

As others mentioned...put the existing chuck in a vice...support the body...insert allen wrench...smack the wrench with a deadblow firmly...LH thread...

The chuck may be a similar removal process with a very large allen wrench in it too...

 

[Boggie1688]

Quick update.

Torx set arrived and lucky me the short end of the torx is not long enough. Pissed. Literally POed. So **** got real. I mean really real.

I skedaddled my *** down to the automotive store. They only carried 1/2 inch T40 sockets, so I stood there thinking to myself 1/2inch seemed like overkill. Screw it, I thought, I don't want to make another trip. Got home, threw socket on my 1/2 in M18 impact, and WHAM screw came right out. Niiiice.

Cool all I gotta do is get this chuck off now. I've watched a few videos and **** looks easy. NOPE. Allen key with a hammer, no luck. Hex socket with a 3/8 M18 impact, no luck. 200% per POed now, I noticed the chuck used a T50 bit. Another trip to the automotive store, zero questions about whether or not a T50 1/2 inch is overkill, and my **** chuck is off. Merry Fing Christmas.

New Rohm chuck is on, and I'm a happy camper.

I never would have though I'd be using a 1/2inch M18 impact to replace a chuck on my drill. Photos below for anyone who wants to have a laugh.

 

[GrayFlattop]

Good to hear! How much was the Rohm?

 

[ChevyEFI]

Sounds like you forgot to run both tools on fwd. simultaneously.

 

[jumbojak]

You're going to like that chuck. I put one on my 2704 as well and it's actually a usable drill now. Tough to lay your hands on one though, am I right? I wound up going through a long chain of emails with people asking who I was throughout the process. It was like dealing with the DMV...

 

[Boggie1688]

Good to hear! How much was the Rohm?

Not too bad actually. Rohm has it retail as $49.99. I emailed them, and they told me contact a company called PTS. I emailed PTS asking for a quote and linked them the Rohm page. (PTS = Production Tool Supply)

PTS quoted $44.10, but for there is some type of mix up. I checked my CC statement, and it shows I was charged $62. We are working that out right now, but it is the holidays so it might be a week before it gets figured out.

Otherwise, for a chuck that seemed super rare, it was a relatively easy buy.

As for the chuck itself, it feels great and the runout looks alot better. There is still some, but its a significant improvement. I haven't had a chance to put it though its paces though.

I will say, although it was a pain to get the T40 and T50 impact sockets, I am happy that Milwaukee had that type of foresight to machine the chuck and screw with a torx pattern. Once I had the right sockets, it was EZ PZ.

 

[pstemari]

Yah, I wish they'd outlaw Phillips heads like they did 100w light bulbs.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[CR888]

Often the retaining screws are either flat or Philips heads are your dancing on thin ice. The torx head is definitely the right fastener for the job. Them chucks can really give you grief when you need to remove them. Anyhowz the drill will be a better tool every time you use it now with a decent chuck.

 

[cajunfirehawk]

Had the same issue when I got something stuck in my 2704 hammer drill chuck, once I finely got the chuck un stuck I tried to get the screw out but never did, sent the drill in for a warranty replacement and never installed a good chuck (rohm or jacobs, even bought a jacobs) on my replacement 2704. Common issue with these drills, IMHO

 

[CTyankee]

Quick update.

Torx set arrived and lucky me the short end of the torx is not long enough. Pissed. Literally POed. So **** got real. I mean really real.

I skedaddled my *** down to the automotive store. They only carried 1/2 inch T40 sockets, so I stood there thinking to myself 1/2inch seemed like overkill. Screw it, I thought, I don't want to make another trip. Got home, threw socket on my 1/2 in M18 impact, and WHAM screw came right out. Niiiice.

Cool all I gotta do is get this chuck off now. I've watched a few videos and **** looks easy. NOPE. Allen key with a hammer, no luck. Hex socket with a 3/8 M18 impact, no luck. 200% per POed now, I noticed the chuck used a T50 bit. Another trip to the automotive store, zero questions about whether or not a T50 1/2 inch is overkill, and my **** chuck is off. Merry Fing Christmas.

New Rohm chuck is on, and I'm a happy camper.

I never would have though I'd be using a 1/2inch M18 impact to replace a chuck on my drill. Photos below for anyone who wants to have a laugh.

LOL...nice job..It's a Christmas miracle!

I've got one I need to tackle myself....and Merry F'ing Christmas to you too.

 

[kotuku]

Replying to an old thread, but this was super helpful.

@Boggie1688 Thanks for the write-up and photos.

My 1/4" M18 Impact driver (2757-20) was no match for the T40 chuck screw or chuck. I had to resort to the breaker bar...


Finished result. Wobble/Runout is much improved.

 

[dnschmidt]

I don't get it. I've got at least 7 of the 1/2" Fuel M18 and M12 drills and I've had no chuck problems whatsoever and runout seems to be zero. IS THIS PROBLEM EXCLUSIVE TO HAMMER DRILLS? All of mine are straight drills without the hammer function and they all seem perfect. I keep seeing this topic with people bitchin' about Milwaukee chucks and I don't understand why I've not had it.

 

[darkzero]

I don't get it. I've got at least 7 of the 1/2" Fuel M18 and M12 drills and I've had no chuck problems whatsoever and runout seems to be zero. IS THIS PROBLEM EXCLUSIVE TO HAMMER DRILLS? All of mine are straight drills without the hammer function and they all seem perfect. I keep seeing this topic with people bitchin' about Milwaukee chucks and I don't understand why I've not had it.

I just did the same thing recently on the same drill as the OP of this thread, 2nd gen M18 Fuel Hammer Drill. I went with the MW 3rd gen Fuel chuck instead of the Rohm. My stock chuck didn't have runout issues, it had slipping issues.

With drill bits say larger than 3/8" or so, under high torque the drill bits would slip & often chew up the shanks. I got around this by using an old set of drill bits I had with 3 flat shanks. The ratcheting mechanism on mine would act up sometimes too which I'm assuming was related to the slipping issue. Sometimes whatever is part of the ratcheting mechanism would get stuck & would hear the clicking when opening & closing the chuck with nothing in it. I'd have to wind it open & closed a few times to get it to stop/unstuck.

 

[kotuku]

@darkzero - nice! I didn't even see that MW came out with the 280x series.. Chuck looks great.