Quick background, I recently more than doubled the size of my garage. I went from a 20 wide, 24 deep to 52 deep and the ceilings are 11'-2 to 11'6 depending on how close you are to the door. The entire garage in insulated. I have been using a natural gas wall heater in the past before the expansion, it did ok in our first few cooler days but is is not going to cut it when it gets lower. I have been looking at doing a 24k mini split for some time, can't seem to decide which to get. Then my boss showed me a natural gas hanging heater he bought the other day for under 400 bucks, and now I am considering that as my main heat option. I was wondering if anyone had any input on these? The wifey told me to hold off for a mini split but I need heat soon, only really holding off for Christmas bonuses to come in to buy the mini, guessing it will approach 2k total on the install. I have read a few articles that says the minis are not always the best for heat also. Here is a link to the heater I am considering. I already have a gas line near where the heater would be hung so that would be easy.
Mini split vs hanging natural gas heater
- Thread starter 402NOBODY
- Start date
dcg9381
Well-known member
I have 2 x 24k mini splits in the insulated shop. Like all heat pumps, their ability to heat decreases below freezing.
If you do a search, this has been discussed quite a bit - you really need to look at the performance curve in the cold of what you are buying.
We supplement with propane heaters when it's really cold. With better performing mini-splits (which you can buy) that might not be necessary. For us, at most, needing dual sources of heat - maybe 0-3 times per year.
If you do a search, this has been discussed quite a bit - you really need to look at the performance curve in the cold of what you are buying.
We supplement with propane heaters when it's really cold. With better performing mini-splits (which you can buy) that might not be necessary. For us, at most, needing dual sources of heat - maybe 0-3 times per year.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
As dcg9381 stated, mildly, this topic has been repeated at nauseam again and again if you search this forum . A very efficient, low temp minisplit will heat to >-26 F at more than it's rating. A link below by the state of Maine show the cost of all fuel costs for heating. Down load the spreadsheet, substitute your fuel costs. With my fuel costs, an efficient minisplit (not your average cheap minisplit) will cost almost (2.5) times less than natural gas to run . You would be better with (2) 12k single zone splits, as in the second link.
Comes down to pay little now for a gas heater or pay for a decent minisplit now and save a ton from now on.
Comes down to pay little now for a gas heater or pay for a decent minisplit now and save a ton from now on.
finn
Well-known member
24000 btu is 24000 btu, regardless of the type of heater. Your first task is to determine hot many BTU you need to be comfortable in your climate and building construction.
Generally the hanging heaters run from approximately 40000 btu to 60000 Btu, and then 75000 Btu, depending on brand.
Mini splits have been very popular for shops, but mostly in moderate climates, or where air conditioning is desirable. Local electric costs are also important.
In my case, we have mini splits in the house for air conditioning and to heat my wife’s basement hideout. The basement unit Mitsubishi Hyper Heat is ok most of the time, but struggles on extremely cold days.
Electric rates are too high to ever consider heating the shop with them, though, as I don’t need air conditioning. I use a propane boiler to establish a base winter temperature, and a 75 k hanging heater to bring the shop to working temperature. The heated work area is 32’x75’.
Generally the hanging heaters run from approximately 40000 btu to 60000 Btu, and then 75000 Btu, depending on brand.
Mini splits have been very popular for shops, but mostly in moderate climates, or where air conditioning is desirable. Local electric costs are also important.
In my case, we have mini splits in the house for air conditioning and to heat my wife’s basement hideout. The basement unit Mitsubishi Hyper Heat is ok most of the time, but struggles on extremely cold days.
Electric rates are too high to ever consider heating the shop with them, though, as I don’t need air conditioning. I use a propane boiler to establish a base winter temperature, and a 75 k hanging heater to bring the shop to working temperature. The heated work area is 32’x75’.
kbeefy
Well-known member
As dcg9381 stated, mildly, this topic has been repeated at nauseam again and again if you search this forum . A very efficient, low temp minisplit will heat to >-26 F at more than it's rating. A link below by the state of Maine show the cost of all fuel costs for heating. Down load the spreadsheet, substitute your fuel costs. With my fuel costs, an efficient minisplit (not your average cheap minisplit) will cost almost (2.5) times less than natural gas to run . You would be better with (2) 12k single zone splits, as in the second link.
Comes down to pay little now for a gas heater or pay for a decent minisplit now and save a ton from now on.
Thanks for that spreadsheet, thats awesome!
I was about to download it, but when I confirmed my rates I'm $0.10/kw and $1.30/therm, it's so close that it's not worth the effort.
Sorry, forgot to mention that I am in nebraska.
If I am at the point that I need 2 seperate good quality mini splits. I am gonna just shoot for the natural gas heater. 400 vs 4000+, it would take a long time to justify that cost
If I am at the point that I need 2 seperate good quality mini splits. I am gonna just shoot for the natural gas heater. 400 vs 4000+, it would take a long time to justify that cost
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
No matter what you choose, you will have cold spots in a 20x52 building, unless you have venting for the furnace or a second air handler for a mini-split.
You don't necessarily need 2 complete mini-splits (although that is more efficient). They do make ones that will drive 2 air handlers. They can be slaved together or operate independently.
Pay back IS AN ISSUE ! Can you live without A/C in summer ? How many heating hours per month ?
Improved700
Well-known member
Have you considered a forced air furnace, then running duct trunk's to distribute the heat?
too much work, too much money and too much space taken. I am not too worried about cold spots like folks are talking about. I just need it to stay warm enough out there that I can be out there not to be freezing my tail off. Whatever unit I choose will be mounted pretty much exactly in the center of the space.
I wondered about with the 402...where about? Omaha suburb on the south west side here...so hi neighbor?
On that size of building, you'll most likely want (2) mini split's or a larger unit with 2 air handlers or a larger mini split with a backup heat source and good plan for air circulation. A bigger unit mounted in the middle with good air circulation could work...but will be dependent on how warm/cold you want it and if you can tolerate more temp variation from location to location. Remember this is a good problem because it means you have a large space
. A lot of the inputs to determine HVAC requirements are based on the building and site conditions. Location, protection from wind, exposure/protection from sun, insulation and air tightness level of building etc. You can Google search Manual J Calculator to play with some of the various inputs to see what the possible BTU requirements would be based on the potential conditions
I've got a 18k minisplit in my attached garage and love it and will never want to go without AC again on it...but for others may not be as important. Because of the protection the house provides the garage, I likely would've been fine with a 12k unit. If summer AC isn't important, a hanging gas heater with a couple fans for air movement will likely be the most cost effective solution for winter heat and some level of summer comfort with the air movement.
Jakemedic
Well-known member
I have that exact Mr. Heater overhead furnace in natural gas and it works fantastic! I also put in a Mr. Cool 18,000 btu diy mini split in my shop. I got both, self installed for less than 1/2 the price of one of the better named mini splits installed by my HVAC contractor. I have been perfectly happy with both. The mini split is only for cooling and reducing humidity. I can heat with it down to 10 degrees, but choose not to. The overhead furnace is much better at taking the chill off. I will, however, heat with the furnace, then switch to the mini split if I am finishing a woodworking project. Blows much less dust around. I also have a 60” ceiling fan which helps both in the winter and summer. Natural gas is still cheaper than electricity for heating. I hope this helps and let us know which way you decide to go!
I am in Omaha also, Millard area. Good to see another local on here!I wondered about with the 402...where about? Omaha suburb on the south west side here...so hi neighbor?
On that size of building, you'll most likely want (2) mini split's or a larger unit with 2 air handlers or a larger mini split with a backup heat source and good plan for air circulation. A bigger unit mounted in the middle with good air circulation could work...but will be dependent on how warm/cold you want it and if you can tolerate more temp variation from location to location. Remember this is a good problem because it means you have a large space
A lot of the inputs to determine HVAC requirements are based on the building and site conditions. Location, protection from wind, exposure/protection from sun, insulation and air tightness level of building etc. You can Google search Manual J Calculator to play with some of the various inputs to see what the possible BTU requirements would be based on the potential conditions
I've got a 18k minisplit in my attached garage and love it and will never want to go without AC again on it...but for others may not be as important. Because of the protection the house provides the garage, I likely would've been fine with a 12k unit. If summer AC isn't important, a hanging gas heater with a couple fans for air movement will likely be the most cost effective solution for winter heat and some level of summer comfort with the air movement.
I like the mini splits, I want AC also. I have been pretty set on getting a mini up until the last few days. But I keep reading, as stated above that they do not always work well in the extreme cold that we can get. I just got done spending a pretty large chunk of change on the garage, so I was trying to hold off on spending thousands, if I can get by with spending 500ish on the natural gas heater to get me through the winter. I also gain the dual source heating that I seem to need either way. It was mentioned above that I should not buy a cheaper mini, I was looking at senville, pioneer and other amazon type of units, now I am not sure if those are even worth the cash. I have talked to others that have these and seem to like them.
That is exactly the scenario that I am thinking, It seems like I am going to need a heating source on top of the mini. I often take time off at the end of the year to burn vacation and I spend most of that time in the garage. Last year we were at -10 for days, days I was home and off of work. So if I can get by with the natural gas for the season and add a mini early summer, it would be very ideal for the budget.
Jakemedic
Well-known member
Check Menards pricing for the Mr. Heater too. When I bought mine, it was cheaper there than at Northern Tool. Although I would rather shop at Northern tool lol. Also consider Ingram’s for you Mr. Cool. Their price and customer service was great. I don’t get anything from recommending either of these companies.
Nice! Papillion for me
I documented my install of a Mr. Cool unit via Amazon starting here-ish:
3rd time's a charm with a 3 car workshop
With the new baby we have some family staying with us for awhile to help out, we're very fortunate that the house is big enough to easily accommodate and we can each have our space but having a project list they can work on as time or interest allows helps all of us out! The wife has been...
www.garagejournal.com
On some of those 0 and below days mine will go into "defrost" and garage temp will drop from the 66 to 68 I keep it to upper 50's if the cold snap extends a couple days but it took at least 4 or 5 days of that and me not working in it for that to happen. So chillier, but still comfortable when working. Had I spent more money and gotten a unit with better cold performance it'd do better...but most of those are professional install only and I had one quoted at $5k...so for that I'll gladly plug in an electric heater to supplement a bit if I need to. So far that hasn't been an issue but my garage is also well protected by the house, if it had greater exposure to north or west winds might think differently.
purplezr2
Well-known member
Not sure what your temperatures are like, but I would suggest finding the Minisplit that you are thinking of using and looking up the heating side performance curve vs ambient temp. You will find a pretty sharp decline when getting close to 30F.
Depending on your build and the BTUs needed for heating it may or may not work.
Depending on your build and the BTUs needed for heating it may or may not work.
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
I have two Senville units, one for the garage and one for the house and they both have been working flawlessly for the last couple of years.
The garage unit has two heads, 9k for upstairs and 12k for the ground floor. It's the only thing heating my garage, which is 20x50, during winter. The garage gets down to 50 during January, but that's ok for me. I don't know if a 18k unit for the ground floor would have been a better choice though.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"Mini splits have been very popular for shops, but mostly in moderate climates,"
So a 12k single zone minisplit which put out 123% of the rating at -26 is only good for moderate climates?????. Granted at the north pole or upper Siberia at -40 it likely would have an issue.
"You don't necessarily need 2 complete mini-splits (although that is more efficient). They do make ones that will drive 2 air handlers. They can be slaved together or operate independently."
Multiple single zone minisplit are much more efficient then multi zone minisplits. If you notice, multi zone minisplit rarely mention a decent efficiency rating...they can't
"But I keep reading, as stated above that they do not always work well in the extreme cold that we can get."
Yes if you buy a bargain basement minisplit, you get what you pay for. Presently I am heating (was cooling) my 30x36 garage and my 1300 sft home (temporarily) with my garage mounted 12k low temp Fujitsu; I have to finish up (3) single zone 9k units before full winter arrives. Last winter it got to -7 F, no problem, my 12k unit cycled on and off, basically not stressed in the least.
Calculator to show present yearly costs/savings...if an efficient heat pump use a HSPF of 13-14
www.pickhvac.com
"I am gonna just shoot for the natural gas heater. 400 vs 4000+,"
You get utility company rebates, similar to 400 per heat pump, then the Fed tax incentive of 30% of heat pump cost. 800 plus Fed $1200=$2000
So a 12k single zone minisplit which put out 123% of the rating at -26 is only good for moderate climates?????. Granted at the north pole or upper Siberia at -40 it likely would have an issue.
"You don't necessarily need 2 complete mini-splits (although that is more efficient). They do make ones that will drive 2 air handlers. They can be slaved together or operate independently."
Multiple single zone minisplit are much more efficient then multi zone minisplits. If you notice, multi zone minisplit rarely mention a decent efficiency rating...they can't
"But I keep reading, as stated above that they do not always work well in the extreme cold that we can get."
Yes if you buy a bargain basement minisplit, you get what you pay for. Presently I am heating (was cooling) my 30x36 garage and my 1300 sft home (temporarily) with my garage mounted 12k low temp Fujitsu; I have to finish up (3) single zone 9k units before full winter arrives. Last winter it got to -7 F, no problem, my 12k unit cycled on and off, basically not stressed in the least.
Calculator to show present yearly costs/savings...if an efficient heat pump use a HSPF of 13-14
AFUE Savings Calculator for Furnaces and Boilers
Use our free and easy-to-use AFUE Savings Calculator to instantly see how much you can save by upgrading to a more energy efficient heating system. Compare furnaces or boilers with different AFUE ratings and fuel types (natural gas, oil, propane, or electricity).
www.seerenergysavings.com
How Much Does It Cost To Run a Gas Fireplace (With Calculator)
Is it expensive to run a gas fireplace? That’s a common question. The answer depends on the gas fireplace BTU capacity and whether you run it for ambiance a few hours per day or use it to heat the area – and run it many more hours per day. Our Gas Furnace Running Cost Calculator ... Read more
www.pickhvac.com
"I am gonna just shoot for the natural gas heater. 400 vs 4000+,"
You get utility company rebates, similar to 400 per heat pump, then the Fed tax incentive of 30% of heat pump cost. 800 plus Fed $1200=$2000
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05snopro440
Well-known member
I have a 38 x 32 garage with 12' ceilings and it has an old hanging forced air natural gas furnace that is about 130,000 btu. It's way oversized for the space so it doesn't run for long when it does, but being in an area that gets real winter it works great at keeping my garage warm. I've never experienced a mini split, but if you get cold forced air is a really good option for keeping a large space warm.
dcg9381
Well-known member
24K BTU is just that with electric or gas. But heat pump available capacity changes in the cold. Watch the curve. Or just buy one made for cold!
I found (DIY) two mini-splits were less expensive and the same capacity as a single unit of the same capacity with multi-heads. I installed them having NEVER worked on HVAC before. The Mr. Cool units now make it pretty hard to screw up with their new line types. I did it old school and had to evac lines.
Watch the requirements of the various rebates, many of them are specific to requiring being installed in the living space of a house(excluding garages) and some require the licensed installer information preventing the DIY option.
jack stand
Well-known member
And it's not like you couldn't add them "down the road" even primarily for the AC.
purplezr2
Well-known member
I would suggested talking with you electric provider about the rebates. I DIY'd mine and they gave me a 50% value of the rebate, but they found two other ones I qualified for so I got more money from rebates then initially anticipated even after the 50% decrease.
You are exactly correct, since it is not in the primary living space, none of the rebates apply here unfortunately.
This seems to be one of those subjects that I am getting mixed opinions on.
It seems that most are saying that these more budget friendly minis like the senville are not going to heat in the more extreme cold, those can be had for around 1200ish dollars for a 24k. I higher quality unit that can handle any cold that we get is more in the 3000 range from what I am seeing, those from what I am seeing require you to buy the line set/install kit sperate so the price goes up from the advertised price.
With that said, I can easily wing the 380 dollar natural gas heater and vent work, lets just day I am at 500 bucks when I am done, add a 24k senville mini in the spring for 1200ish and I am at 1700 total vs a 3000 dollar higher end model. I would imagine that it would take me years if not decades to justify the 1300 dollar+ difference to a more expensive unit. Not to mention that I gain dual fuel going that route.
Maybe I am looking at this wrong? Maybe I am being a cheap *** for not wanting to spend the 3000 right now. Half the appeal of the mini splits was the price tag.
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Already looked, garages are excluded from any rebate program in my area
I would personally have no issues with this approach in my own space.
One item to consider...as once the mini split goes in the heater becomes emergency/backup heat...would electric heat only be viable for the winter? Assuming 240v service is available, you save a couple hundred bucks and the headache of a vent penetration by going electric for now. That savings is offset by higher energy cost for heating...but down the road your maintenance and risk of failure is lower in the electric unit vs a gas unit.
The way my garage is setup, I should need only 5 feet of vent, that's only about 25 bucks plus a cap at 14, elbow at 25 and the roof flashing at 15 bucks. I do have the 240 available in the garage but I planned to use that for the mini. I personally think the natural gas is going to be more efficient but maybe I am wrong. I know that in our area, everything is natural gas heat unless you don't have access to gas which is rare now.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"Watch the requirements of the various rebates, many of them are specific to requiring being installed in the living space of a house(excluding garages) and some require the licensed installer information preventing the DIY option."
Good points, where I am there is no "pro" licensing, I used my EPA 608 number.
For next year the Fed is requiring an energy audit by a "pro" before you get the tax credit as do some utility rebates presently require one.
"I personally think the natural gas is going to be more efficient but maybe I am wrong."
You are wrong unless your getting NG for free. Are you afraid to open the (maine) calculator I posted? I am running at $8.06 per million BTUs on my minisplits, natural gas (vented) is running at $46.1, natural gas is nearly 6 times the running cost.
Good points, where I am there is no "pro" licensing, I used my EPA 608 number.
For next year the Fed is requiring an energy audit by a "pro" before you get the tax credit as do some utility rebates presently require one.
"I personally think the natural gas is going to be more efficient but maybe I am wrong."
You are wrong unless your getting NG for free. Are you afraid to open the (maine) calculator I posted? I am running at $8.06 per million BTUs on my minisplits, natural gas (vented) is running at $46.1, natural gas is nearly 6 times the running cost.
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jack stand
Well-known member
Remember that whatever you decide, the "better" you insulate, (at least in your addition)
the less important your choice of fuels and equipment becomes. Read this again until the bell goes off in your head.
the less important your choice of fuels and equipment becomes. Read this again until the bell goes off in your head.
No arguments there, we insulated very well last winter. I was working on finishing the inside of the garage last winter, using a medium size torpedo heater in -10 weather, I was in a t shirt.Remember that whatever you decide, the "better" you insulate, (at least in your addition)
the less important your choice of fuels and equipment becomes. Read this again until the bell goes off in your head.
a good thing to point out is 24k is NOT 60k, so if you guy a 24k minisplit instead of a 60k gas heater, guess what! you'll definitely be disappointed in how fast it heats.
for a space you don't intend to "idle" at temp, you absolutely want to upsize a minisplit to say, 5 tons/60k. that'll let you have the power to heat it quickly, and it'll downturn into efficiency once it gets close to set temp. and you'll want to get a hyperheat/equivalent model, or absolutely check the heating curve. generally the "hyperheat" and similarly named models have nameplate capacity at much lower temps than the super budget no-name model.
finn
Well-known member
My Mitsubishi hyper heat is generally considered the top performing unit for low temperature operation. Mitsubishi rates it for-13 degrees F. I think Fujitsu is ranked number 2, and, last I checked, they advertise-10 degree capability."Mini splits have been very popular for shops, but mostly in moderate climates,"
So a 12k single zone minisplit which put out 123% of the rating at -26 is only good for moderate climates?????. Granted at the north pole or upper Siberia at -40 it likely would have an issue.
"You don't necessarily need 2 complete mini-splits (although that is more efficient). They do make ones that will drive 2 air handlers. They can be slaved together or operate independently."
Multiple single zone minisplit are much more efficient then multi zone minisplits. If you notice, multi zone minisplit rarely mention a decent efficiency rating...they can't
"But I keep reading, as stated above that they do not always work well in the extreme cold that we can get."
Yes if you buy a bargain basement minisplit, you get what you pay for. Presently I am heating (was cooling) my 30x36 garage and my 1300 sft home (temporarily) with my garage mounted 12k low temp Fujitsu; I have to finish up (3) single zone 9k units before full winter arrives. Last winter it got to -7 F, no problem, my 12k unit cycled on and off, basically not stressed in the least.
Calculator to show present yearly costs/savings...if an efficient heat pump use a HSPF of 13-14
AFUE Savings Calculator for Furnaces and Boilers
Use our free and easy-to-use AFUE Savings Calculator to instantly see how much you can save by upgrading to a more energy efficient heating system. Compare furnaces or boilers with different AFUE ratings and fuel types (natural gas, oil, propane, or electricity).www.seerenergysavings.com
How Much Does It Cost To Run a Gas Fireplace (With Calculator)
Is it expensive to run a gas fireplace? That’s a common question. The answer depends on the gas fireplace BTU capacity and whether you run it for ambiance a few hours per day or use it to heat the area – and run it many more hours per day. Our Gas Furnace Running Cost Calculator ... Read more
"I am gonna just shoot for the natural gas heater. 400 vs 4000+,"
You get utility company rebates, similar to 400 per heat pump, then the Fed tax incentive of 30% of heat pump cost. 800 plus Fed $1200=$2000
I can testify that the Mitsubishi works at -16, but it’s relatively feeble.
I haven’t been following these things, though, since I already made my purchase. I like it, but there’s a lot of hype out there.
I don't know how the math works out between all of there. But a 60k mini says to be good for 2600 ft2. 2.5x what I need.
The 50k heater I am buying says it's good for 1667 ft2. I am at 1040 ft2, maybe a bit over kill but fast heat and tall ceilings...
Pretty sure the HVAC system I just put in my 2800 ft2 2 story home with basement was a 3 ton. Again I am not good with the math side of it, I am a great hands on installer but not so good at the calculations.
Not to mention a 60k mini it over 4k for a cheaper model, I just spent 5200 for everything to install the new HVAC in my home(self install). There is no way I am dropping 4k to keep a garage warm, I would go back to the wall heater and a torpedo heater at that point.
I think my final verdict is I am buying the natural gas heater. its going to cost me 526 total for the heater and everything to vent it, I have everything for the gas line and electrical either existing or on hand in the garage. I will still plan to install a senville 24k unit for AC come summer time assuming funds are still good by then.
I appreciate everyones input
The 50k heater I am buying says it's good for 1667 ft2. I am at 1040 ft2, maybe a bit over kill but fast heat and tall ceilings...
Pretty sure the HVAC system I just put in my 2800 ft2 2 story home with basement was a 3 ton. Again I am not good with the math side of it, I am a great hands on installer but not so good at the calculations.
Not to mention a 60k mini it over 4k for a cheaper model, I just spent 5200 for everything to install the new HVAC in my home(self install). There is no way I am dropping 4k to keep a garage warm, I would go back to the wall heater and a torpedo heater at that point.
I think my final verdict is I am buying the natural gas heater. its going to cost me 526 total for the heater and everything to vent it, I have everything for the gas line and electrical either existing or on hand in the garage. I will still plan to install a senville 24k unit for AC come summer time assuming funds are still good by then.
I appreciate everyones input
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Dad had a place in the northern part of MI lower peninsula. About 24x32(?). ZERO insulation. It had a real old fashioned wood burner.
I asked him once why he seldom was out in the garage in winter.
"When the temps are in the single digits and the wind is blowing 10-20 mph, I can load up the wood burner, let it run for an hour, and I am still not comfortable ! My *** feels like it is on fire and my face and hands are like ice cubes !"
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Just finished installing propane heater in my shop, thankfully I installed ceiling fans to help move the air around. Went from dead quiet shop, to a raging loud heater. Could'nt be more disappointed, should have roled the dice and went with mini split, splits? Just felt like to many na-sayers about ceiling height. Positive note, once up to temp the heater turns off.
racecougar
Well-known member
That certainly is worth mentioning. The silent heating/cooling offered by a mini-split is definitely a big upside.
I cleaned this thread up...
Something to consider: If you know everything there is to know about HVAC systems and want to share that knowledge, you won't be able to do so effectively without swallowing some ego and treating people with respect. And if you want to learn, you have to show some respect as well.
Also, if you go to calling people names on a thread about heating and cooling... who really has an issue in life?
In any regard, carry on fellas... Please keep it civil or don't post.
Something to consider: If you know everything there is to know about HVAC systems and want to share that knowledge, you won't be able to do so effectively without swallowing some ego and treating people with respect. And if you want to learn, you have to show some respect as well.
Also, if you go to calling people names on a thread about heating and cooling... who really has an issue in life?
In any regard, carry on fellas... Please keep it civil or don't post.
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
Mini-splits take longer than a NG heater to raise the temperature.